The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk

[machine_punk]

Re: Back to the Regularly-Scheduled Program

Happy Anniversary, Kev and The Aerodrome Studio! It is fun to go back and see where it all started.

Nice work on the lighting fixture. That is some thick aluminum you are using. Not sure I would have clecos with a long enough grip for that. I'm use to plane skins to ribs and bulkheads



Nice work. Keep on bucking!

thanks!

i did have to order a couple dozen 'long-grip' clecos for this project.

 

[machine_punk]

i have not seen one with bigger spacing...you don't even expand this one barely as much as you can, if you are using standard rivet spacing. it comes in 10 and 20 hole configurations. These are made out of strips of stainless steel. The holes are the size of the smallest common rivet diameter (so you can use them when setting up any rivets...just drill your initial holes the smaller size, then go back and re-drill them the correct size.

if i was going to build a bigger one, i would start with stainless steel or aluminum strips (1/8 X 1 inch) then drill the attachment holes very accurately.

the aluminum plate in this project is 1/4 in...i designed it with the fully-extended weight of the lamp in mind.

 

[nine4gmc]

The two wild hair pigs I had were rescues. I had them at different times and one was named "Nick" and I had a co-worker from Peru(they eat them there ) that would come over and call it "Lunch". It used to piss me off and we would go rounds but he did it just to drive me.

I thought you may like these, not quite as cool as your goggles but check out the American Optical safety goggles I found in a garage sale tool box. They look to have never been worn but one arm and ring is broke and the leather is toast. They are real tinted green glass, I want to try and restore them and they have rivets so I will have questions(if you don't mind).

 

[machine_punk]

I don't mind answering (whatever I know) about rivets (I've only been doing this for about 1.5 years...but I have done a lot of studying on the topic.)

Now that I am done with my work weekend (uggg...sick as a dog all weekend, but nobody really to replace me), I need to get back to the questions on this thread.

Kev

 

[redintex]

Hey M_P,

I just worked through all 21 pages - wow! You have definitely come a long way with your rivet work and fabrication skills - outstanding work! I have thoroughly enjoyed reading through the pages and seeing how you have worked through your problems (trial and error - that's me!!!) and expanded your abilities along the way. I look forward to what the future brings in your studio!

Also, thank you for your service - we can never say that enough!!!

redintex

 

[machine_punk]

First Weld - Kinda

Woohoo...made my first welds today, well, kinda. They were my first Oxy-Acetylene welds. I have been trained in using TIG to join thin steel sheet.

I am pleased to finally be moving forward with welding, even though most joining done in my studio will continue to be solid rivets.

While I learned TIG at a metal shaping course, OA was all self-taught. Between YouTube, books, and other sources. I've been slowly gathering the equipment and supplies. Finally went to the scrap dealer the other day and got some material to practice with (50 cents/pound).

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First weld: On the 3/16 plate, I used a #3 Victor tip on a Victor 100 torch.

Second weld: On the 1/8" strip, I used a #2 Victor tip on a Victor 100 torch.

I know, I know..."show me the root..." I also ran the second weld through the band saw, for a little destructive testing. The root didn't look to me quite like I had full penetration, but the cut shows at least 'nearly all the way through.' Of course, I am hardly an expert at evaluating the root of a weld or a cut through a weld.

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Here's an old pic of my new (to me) setup...

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I'm heading toward welding thin aluminum sheet, but the DVD I am watching (Tinman Tech's Welding Aluminum - Kent White) recommends not starting on aluminum (which is why I made the trip to the scrap yard--all of my studio scrap is aluminum).

I suspect my main use for welding in the shop will be making steel benches and forms for bending aluminum sheet. I picked Oxy-Acetylene as the first process in my studio for its relatively small startup cost and versatility (if I am only going to have one process, I want it to do as many things as possible).

I'm not particularly looking for a critique of the welds...I'll dive back into the resources soon and see how to improve what I am doing...I am just celebrating the addition of new equipment and a new process to my studio.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

NINE4GMC: Those are cool glasses...I am interested in seeing how you refurbish and repair them.

I'd be happy to try to answer any questions you have about rivets. I don't know 'everything there is to know' about rivets, and my practical usage of rivets has been a very narrow direction, but I have been studying as much as I can find about rivets.

REDINTEX: My pleasure (the military service).

I am always pleased to hear when people enjoy my thread. It's been cool for me to go back and see what progress I have made. I rarely get things 'exactly right' on the first try of a new technique, but I definitely learn more about designing and building with rivets on EVERY project. Welcome to GJ!

EveryOne: I am finally starting on the Solid Rivets 101 thread. It is mostly just a shell (and some cool GJ banter) so far, but I will be adding content as quickly as I can (most of it is actually written for other reasons...just needs a quick edit and post).

Thanks for taking the time to post what you are thinking.

Kev

 

[ScubaSteve]

I'm surprised you didn't go with MIG! I have an O/A setup myself that I got for the same reasons you did...but I haven't used it much. Aside from the relative risk of working with acetylene and the need to refill tanks, I keep looking at purchasing a MIG for its ability to weld thin sheet (OA can warp thin stuff easily) as well as being able to do stainless and aluminum (with a spool gun).

BTW, nice job on those welds! I'm a welding novice, but they look decent. If you have the ability to crimp thin sheet, you might consider brazing as an option...it's pretty strong and can be invaluable for fixing cast iron.

 

[luvit]

hey, i just started an AC arc welding station.
i have a ways to go before it's orderly, but i've gotten some great use out of it, though.
i like the things you make!
.

 

[machine_punk]

I'm surprised you didn't go with MIG! I have an O/A setup myself that I got for the same reasons you did...but I haven't used it much. Aside from the relative risk of working with acetylene and the need to refill tanks, I keep looking at purchasing a MIG for its ability to weld thin sheet (OA can warp thin stuff easily) as well as being able to do stainless and aluminum (with a spool gun).

BTW, nice job on those welds! I'm a welding novice, but they look decent. If you have the ability to crimp thin sheet, you might consider brazing as an option...it's pretty strong and can be invaluable for fixing cast iron.

I actually did get the OA setup TO weld thin sheet--thin aluminum sheet--on the recommendation of Kent White (aka the Tin Man). I'm hoping to take his 4-day welding course, where you learn to solder, braze, and weld with OA on steel, aluminum, copper, and stainless steel. At the end of that week, you can join pretty much anything you need with OA.

https://www.tinmantech.com/html/workshop_courses.php

My other big use for this will be for making fixtures to bend and press sheet metal into particular shapes...and other fixtures, jigs, and benches in the studio.

I have been trained on TIG...using TIG to join thin sheets of metal without filler material...so that is naturally what I want next, but I am intrigued with MIG and it's versatility, especially with a spool gun. Whatever I buy (likely Miller), I intend to buy 'forever...' that is, get the right machine first (looking at something in the 210 range, with AC/DC) and that is going to be expensive.

 

[machine_punk]

hey, i just started an AC arc welding station.
i have a ways to go before it's orderly, but i've gotten some great use out of it, though.
i like the things you make!
.

Cool! I assume you are talking about stick welding. That's great for a lot of the structural stuff around the shop (building benches and stuff).

I'm pretty sure that the guy who welded the custom spreader bar I fabricated used stick welding. I use it to pick up my Baileigh 3-in-one with an engine lift...

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I've seen a couple of ancient stick machines (AC/DC) for sale on CL around here lately, for dirt cheap. Thinking about adding that as a second welding process in my shop, just because I could do it inexpensively. For now, I'd have to figure out a way to wire it into the dryer plug in the garage.

Thanks for the kind words!

 

[cafyrman]

https://www.tinmantech.com/html/workshop_courses.php

Great, another place I want to spend money learning from.

 

[machine_punk]

Great, another place I want to spend money learning from.

Happy to be of assistance!

 

[machine_punk]

I had a birthday yesterday. The boys also happened to be home, but Mrs. Machine_Punk was at work, so it was an 'all boys day.' Along with a friend of theirs, we decided to go the to range, for a little target practice.

And Mrs. Machine_Punk made a cake for me (my favorite...yellow cake with white cream cheese frosting)...and she drew some rivets on it too! WOOHOO! Does she know me, or what?!?

Kev

 

[luvit]

.
happy b-day.
what do you have going on, there? a mini waco texas?

.

 

[machine_punk]

I have been wanting a shop press for quite a while. I can think of lotsa things to do with one (including replacing the U-Joint in my van's drive shaft...which I did without a press, several months ago).

There are a lot of different models, tonnages, and types out there...ranging in price from just over a hundred dollars, to pretty much whatever you want to spend. I didn't necessarily want to go with the Harbor Freight presses for this one, if I could get something else better for a little more. There seems to be a big following of the Harbor Freight presses, though--particularly the 20-ton press. I suspect 20 tons is more than I will need, but for the price difference, just $70's difference between the 12-ton and 20-ton model, I'd rather have the extra capability. I don't plan on having to buy another shop press ever, so I might as well go with the larger model.

I had a fabulous coupon, which I've been watching for months to get, reducing the price from $200 to $150. With only $20 difference between the 12-ton and 20-ton, there was definitely no reason to go with the smaller model. After one final viewing in the store, the difference was obvious. The 20-ton model is significantly beefier.

At this point, it was a no-brainer...the Harbor Freight 20-Ton press has joined The Aerodrome Studio. I"m sure I will be building different fixtures to get more out of this...especially now that I have the capability of welding in the studio now.

I don't have it assembled yet, so you will have to live with the manufacturer's photo...

I'm pretty sure I am going to get casters for it, since it will probably live outside for now, and only be moved in the shop when I need it.

I also have the 12-ton air-over-hydraulic bottle jack...which will likely be my routine power source for the press...unless I need the full 20-ton capability...
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SWAG offroad sells a press brake kit for this press...
http://www.swagoffroad.com/20-TON-Press-Brake-DIY-Builder-Kit_p_40.html

Based on some reviews, I'll likely want some new arbor plates. SWAG makes those too, but I suspect that after shipping I'll be better off going to my local scrap yard and making my own. Anyone have any idea how thick of which steel I'll need for 20-Ton arbor plates?

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

.
happy b-day.
what do you have going on, there? a mini waco texas?

.

Nope. Just grew up with parents from the Georgia, where guns are a part of life. My dad tells me that when he was a kid, he took his hunting rifle to school and left it in his locker during the day, so he could go hunting on the way home. Quite a bit different than current social norms.

I lettered in Varsity Rifle Team for two years in high school. We went to target shooting competitions each week, to shoot against other high school teams. When I lived in Texas, my roommate and I had a pellet range in teh back yard. All we had to do was step out the back door and do some target shooting. And, of course, I have 6 years in the Army National Guard and 10 years in the Air Force...so I have a lot of experience with weapons of all sorts. If I ever tried out for another reality show (I've been on MasterChef USA), I think I'd try out of Top Shot. So, shooting and guns are a normal part my life.

Kev

 

[luvit]

yeah. i have guns and usaf time.. just ribbing ya. -- citizens need guns, that's for sure.
i didn't shoot until i was 17.. so good for you on starting them young.
although, i guess i'm young enough that knives and guns in school locker was frowned upon.. lol.

.

 

[machine_punk]

Hole Saws for Cheap - CL Find

Howdy. I know, I've been busy and haven't had time to post.

I check the local CL ads frequently, watching for deals. I think most folks in the Bay Area think their tools are gold plated. Or they don't really want to sell:
Tool Hoarder's Wife: why don't you get rid of that widget that's been taking up my parking spot in the garage?!?
Tool Hoarder: I've been trying. Look! Here is the ad in CL (of course, the price is 95% to 110% of brand new). What else do you want me to do?!? Nobody seems to want to buy it.

Anyway, scanning CL paid off today. I found a set of 7 Sioux hole saws, brand new, in their boxes, from around 4" through 6", for a whopping "$25 OBO." I couldn't get on the phone fast enough. Just the one, 6" hole saw goes for about $35. So, I called the guy, hopped on the bike, and rode over to pick them up. It's a little wet out, but definitely still warm enough to be riding...not to mention the motorycyle is a LOT easier on gas than the 15-passenger van...

Oh...I finally figured out what to do with my pictures (I am running out of space in my Garage Journal albums). I post them on my web site, then attach them here. That allows me to retain control of my pics.

I've been practicing welding some, but there isn't really much to show you there. I am planning to weld some wheels on my new HF 20-ton press, if it will ever stop raining here.

Life seems to be keeping me busy lately (2 teenage boys in the house, need I say more?)

I do have a project I am working on now...building an aluminum-and-rivet guitar stand for a family member for Christmas...should have pics soon. I am in the CAD phase now (Cardboard Aided Design).

Thanks GirlInAGarage, for the tips on using leather in my project.

Kev.

 

[luvit]

i hear ya about the teenagers. i was hopping all summer.

.

 

[dozerbuilder01]

Re: Hole Saws for Cheap - CL Find

I check the local CL ads frequently, watching for deals. I think most folks in the Bay Area think their tools are gold plated.

It's that way with most things. I blame it on the internet and things like Barrett Jackson Auctions. Everyone with a rotted out 68 Mustang shell things they have a mint Shelby GT500. Oh well. Can't blame a guy for trying to make a buck I guess. Just won't be from me.

I've spent 8 years so far looking for the tools I have in my garage. Just gotta be persistent. And patient.

 

[onewaydave]

Just a comment. Great pics of the boys shooting. In the first pic, the fella looks to be shooting left handed but aiming with the right eye. May be just and optical illusion, but if he is right eye dominant, it may improve his shooting to switch to right handed for shooting. Or wear an eye patch.

I am having nightmares of trying to hold those hole saws on a 3/4" hand drill. My wrists and shins hurt. DAMW.

Dave.

 

[akdiesel]

I like the spreader bar for the lift.
As for the welding I am not a profesional welder but I do work around them and on the thicker material 3/8 and more they will notch out the **** joints to allow for better fill welds.

 

[machine_punk]

i hear ya about the teenagers. i was hopping all summer.

.

Ain't it the truth.

It's that way with most things. I blame it on the internet and things like Barrett Jackson Auctions. Everyone with a rotted out 68 Mustang shell things they have a mint Shelby GT500. Oh well. Can't blame a guy for trying to make a buck I guess. Just won't be from me.

I've spent 8 years so far looking for the tools I have in my garage. Just gotta be persistent. And patient.

Yep. The key to CL and eBay is patience. I've assembled my welding rig (Oxy-Acetylene) for pennies on the dollar, but I've been watching for a couple of years now. You also have to have some cash put back and ready to jump...the good deals don't last long.

Just a comment. Great pics of the boys shooting. In the first pic, the fella looks to be shooting left handed but aiming with the right eye. May be just and optical illusion, but if he is right eye dominant, it may improve his shooting to switch to right handed for shooting. Or wear an eye patch.

I am having nightmares of trying to hold those hole saws on a 3/4" hand drill. My wrists and shins hurt. DAMW.

Dave.

This was our first time out shooting together, so I just wanted to focus on fun (and safety) that trip. He is left handed, but would probably feel more comfortable shooting right handed with a dominant right eye.

As a fun fact, here is how you figure out eye dominance:
- focus on a a relatively small object across the room, with both eyes open (a lighting switch plate is perfect).
- close one eye, then the other.
- which eye has the switch plate closest to the same spot as when you are using both eyes? That is your dominant eye.

I'll probably use those holes saws mostly in the drill press. I'll bet it takes quite a bit of torque to drive that 6-inch hole saw.

I like the spreader bar for the lift.
As for the welding I am not a profesional welder but I do work around them and on the thicker material 3/8 and more they will notch out the **** joints to allow for better fill welds.

Thanks. I'm certainly still in practice mode here. I've also heard that moving thinner parts further apart (gap between the pieces) helps with welding penetration.

I've heard good things about the Oxy-Acetylene welding DVD you can get at Northern Tool. I don't have it yet, but it is on my short list of 'buy this next...
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200310394_200310394

I already have the Kent White/TM Tech/Tinman "Welding Aluminum with Oxy-Acetylene," which starts with "Don't learn on aluminum first, get comfortable with steel." That is what prompted me to go get some scrap steel and start there...
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/vid_how_gas_weld_alum.php

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to post.

I should be updating a project soon...the aero guitar stand. I've finished the sketching and CAD process (Cardboard Aided Design) and started layout of the cuts on sheet aluminum.

Kev

 

[Shoottx]

Your eye dominance test is ok, but it requires some perception that may not work with a young man. After years of coaching ***** and trap shooting I use a little simpler method; tear a small hole (3/8 to 1/2 inch in a piece of paper, hold the paper up and focus on a distant object. then pull the paper toward your eye. You will pull it to your dominant eye.

Just a note, about 95% of women and a small percentage of men have incomplete dominance. So with the test at different times and in different lighting conditions the dominance will change. So in trying to teach people with incomplete eye dominance, you have to partially block the sight path of one eye.

 

[machine_punk]

I knew someone would have a cooler way to check eye dominance!

 

[Shoottx]

Course there is still the real simple way;


1 Make a triangle with both of your hands by overlapping your thumbs and the top half of your fingers.

2 Extend your arms toward your target.

3 Look through the triangle at the target.

4 Keep your hand-triangle small enough so that only one eye can look through it up close.

5 Keep both eyes open.

6 Move your hands back to your face, still looking at the target through your hands. Whichever eye your hands gravitate toward is your dominant eye.

7 Double check by holding the triangle at arms distance again and closing your non-dominant eye. The target should remain centered in the opening.


[

 

[mdbeck1]

Course there is still the real simple way;


1 Make a triangle with both of your hands by overlapping your thumbs and the top half of your fingers.

2 Extend your arms toward your target.

3 Look through the triangle at the target.

4 Keep your hand-triangle small enough so that only one eye can look through it up close.

5 Keep both eyes open.

6 Move your hands back to your face, still looking at the target through your hands. Whichever eye your hands gravitate toward is your dominant eye.

7 Double check by holding the triangle at arms distance again and closing your non-dominant eye. The target should remain centered in the opening.


[

I'm a NRA shooting instructor (and BSA). The fastest way I've found is to have the kids make that same triangle and look at me (usually about 20-25 feet away). Then I can look right at them and tell them which eye is their dominant one.

Some of them will argue that they should shoot with the other eye. I let them and then ask them to try one clip the other way. It usually convinces them.

 

[machine_punk]

I am continuing to work on the aeroplane-inspired guitar stand, which will be a Christmas gift for a family member. All of the adults draw from one name from a hat on Thanksgiving day, and that is who they get a gift for. The person who's name I selected happens to teach guitar lessons for a living. I thought it would be cool to get him a nice guitar stand. Then, I though it would be really cool to design and build a guitar stand from The Aerodrome Studio.

I took a folding guitar stand that I have, to get the dimensions and angles correct for holding a guitar. The stand I am building won't fold, so it won't be much use for the stage, but it would look great wherever he teaches lessons. I don't know whether he primarily uses an electric guitar or an acoustic, so I will make it easily convertible between both styles of guitar.

I've already spent a lot of time on design and just thinking. I've drawn out some of my concepts. I've used CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to figure out some angles and dimensions. I've also drawn a full-size diagram of a couple of major parts.

Usually, for layout on the actual pieces of sheet metal, I use a 6- or 12-inch roofing square (the one with the ledge on one side) for smaller sheet metal pieces--or a 4-foot drywall square for larger pieces. After drawing the full-size diagram, I was putting away my portable drafting board with built-in T-bar, when it hit me, "THAT WOULD BE PERFECT FOR LAYOUT ON SHEET METAL!"

So, I taped the rough-cut pieces of sheet metal to the drafting board and proceeded to lay out the parts. It is so much easier to have a parallel T-Bar and squares for the layout process.

I also got a couple of INCRA rules in the mail today (birthday gifts). They are even cooler than I thought for precise layout. They accurately measure down to 64ths of an inch. The slots are built to fit a 0.5mm pencil lead. The cool thing is, that the slots also fit the ultra-fine sharpies I like to use for layout...

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Guitar Stand Progress

I got some INCRA RULES with some of my birthday money. I have to tell you, Incra Rules 'RULE.' It is so much easier to make accurate marks for layout. I'm sure I will be adding some of the other styles of Incra rules to my collection, but here are the two I started with...

While I do like to use a 3D design program now, sometimes I have to rely on good old cardboard and tape. Here is a cardboard template of part of the guitar stand I'm making, along with the sheet metal parts which will become the actual stand (the two pieces join to make one side, as represented by the piece of cardboard). I am planning to make two sets of brackets, one to hold acoustic guitars and one to hold electric guitars. I will use anchor nuts (captive nuts which are built to rivet to a piece of sheet metal and give you a place to attach bolts, without having access to the back of the panel...usually used for access and inspection hatches on airplanes) to allow the end user to switch between electric and acoustic guitars when he or she wants...

The pads and brackets which will actually touch the guitar will be covered in leather. Here is the leather I ordered to try out (THANKS, GirlInAGarage for help selecting leather!)

Kev

 

[ScubaSteve]

Great post, Kevin! I'm glad we're back on topic

Never even knew those Incra Rules existed. They look awesome.

 

[machine_punk]

Meco Midget

Not much to show this time. I have been working on the Aero Guitar Stand, but mainly just cleaning up the edges of the sheet metal panels and getting ready to drill holes for the final rivet placement.

I did get some stuff in the mail, though!

I got the Meco Midget Oxy-Fuel welding torch. Look at the chunk of 2X4 as comparison...that torch is TINY. Also, you see 7 tips for the new torch, an ultralight hose for the torch, and a set of adapters to convert the torch and hose's "A" connectors to the "B" connectors on a standard welding hose. The round white thing you see is a tool designed to put a smooth edge on things made of leather (like the smooth edges on leather belts). (Now that I see it up close, I think it's just a plastic clothesline pulley, sold for several times what it costs...)

 

[ScubaSteve]

Looking forward to seeing you use this! I have an o/a setup as well as a stick/tig unit....I've really just played around with either setup but I've always been intrigued by the abilities of the o/a to weld aluminum ans stainless....which is why I got it in the first place.

 

[luvit]

Re: Meco Midget

...I have been working on the Aero Guitar Stand...

cool! you play air guitar, too?
look, you may want to copy my air guitar stand idea.. i can't believe how perfect it is and all the comments i get on it's awesomeness.
here's a pic of it holding my flying-v air guitar


.

 

[machine_punk]

Looking forward to seeing you use this! I have an o/a setup as well as a stick/tig unit....I've really just played around with either setup but I've always been intrigued by the abilities of the o/a to weld aluminum ans stainless....which is why I got it in the first place.

I'm looking forward to using it! I got mine primarily for welding thin aluminum sheet. I'm sure a lot of you guys are aware of the Tin Man, Kent White, and his shop, TM Tech. He has been in the sheet metal business for about as long as I have been alive, working on airplanes, cars, and architectural stuff. He also does training--classes at his shop and on-site training for workplaces. I'm definitely planning to attend one of his workshops...the four-day welding intensive.

All of that, really just to say that he recommends this torch for the sort of stuff I want to do. I'll keep my Victor 100 (a medium-sized torch) for other stuff. I have only been practicing on steel so far, since I haven't used OA before.

I'd like to have TIG in my shop eventually, since I was trained on TIG for thin sheet steel at the Contour Autocraft course I attended. For now, though, OA is the perfect welding process for me...
-- relatively inexpensive initial equipment cost (for used stuff)
-- brazes or welds any metal.
-- useful for heating, tempering, and annealing
-- useful for removing stuck fasteners
-- easier to see (using the shade 5 lens, you can see your set up)
-- is there anything cooler or more manly than fastening metal things with fire?

The only thing which isn't so good, is that it is very technique intensive and their is a steep learning curve with gasses and safety. On the other side of that, though, once you master the torch, any other process should be relatively easy.

Stay tuned--I'll definitely be posting more pics as I learn this process.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Re: Meco Midget

cool! you play air guitar, too?
look, you may want to copy my air guitar stand idea.. i can't believe how perfect it is and all the comments i get on it's awesomeness.
here's a pic of it holding my flying-v air guitar

.

"Ha Ha, very funny. Ho Ho, 'tis to laugh" -Donald Duck

Your air guitar stand seems to be the latest in space-saving technology!

I do have real guitars, though. Probably more guitars and equipment than two or three people need. Here are just a couple...

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

I've been making slow progress on the Aero Guitar Stand. Here you see the two pieces for one side. I got the pieces deburred today. I cheat a little and use a 90-degree die grinder with a 3M ROLOC surface conditioning disc for deburring (oh...the blue one). Since I don't work on real aeroplanes, I just debur as quickly as I can. Like most of my projects, this picture doesn't make much sense yet...you will 'get it' the closer I am to done...

Kev

 

[EdT]

Does the MECO torch require/like high resolution low pressure regulators or is it happy with ordinary OA ones? It really is small. I bought a COBRA (Henrob) a few years ago and I cannot get used to the ergonomics. Also I didn't buy the special regulators and I think I need to. Did you ever get anywhere with the flow forming?

 

[machine_punk]

Does the MECO torch require/like high resolution low pressure regulators or is it happy with ordinary OA ones? It really is small. I bought a COBRA (Henrob) a few years ago and I cannot get used to the ergonomics. Also I didn't buy the special regulators and I think I need to. Did you ever get anywhere with the flow forming?

I very intentionally got 2-stage regulators (old Airco's), since I was going to use smaller torches (which I have read are more sensitive to changing pressures during long sessions of welding). With a 2 stage regulator, I can set the pressure and it will stay stable all day.

I haven't actually used the Midget yet, so I cannot report much about it. I don't think the Tin Man uses anything special in regulators. He recommends/sells mid-range Victor Cutskill 230 Series regulators (and the only welding torch he sells is the Midget).

I haven't got back to the flow forming yet, either...so many projects, so little time. Flow forming will be integral to a lot of what I build eventually, though, so I am sure I will get back to it.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Initial Assembly - Aero Guitar Stand

I am making progress on the Christmas present I am building for a relative, which will be an Aero Guitar Stand.

Here, I am using the rivet fan to evenly space rivets in a row. I have decided to not go with 'aeroplane spacing' of these rivets (a very specific set of requirements for how close rivets are to the edge and each other). For one, this application simply won't need maximum strength. The heaviest, solid mahogany, electric guitar cannot possibly weigh much more than 25 pounds (11 kg). The second reason is that I want to be able to reach as many of these rivets as possible with a pneumatic rivet squeezer, which has a fairly limited reach...

Here is the initial assembly of the Aero Guitar Stand, sitting behind the commercially-available guitar stand I used for basic measurements. Yes, I know, it still looks a bit rough. This is the INITIAL assembly...

Here is a view from the back of the stand, which shows how I got more rigidity in the panels by folding the tabs over at a 90-degree angle. I only finished the bottom strips on one end, because I didn't know how long they needed to be yet. I will fit them, bend up the tabs for more stiffness, and attach them to the other side panel. These two strips will support the rubber feet for the guitar stand...

This is more or less how the guitar is going to sit on this stand. Every part which touches the guitar will be covered in leather (likely just glued on at this point...time is ticking away and I have to work most of this weekend and I have to have this ready by Christmas Eve morning). I plan to have two sets of lower brackets--one set for electric guitars (tend to be thinner) and one set for acoustic guitars (tend to be thicker). The back of the guitar will sit in the same place, regardless of the depth of the guitar, so the 'lean angle' is always consistent...

Hope you guys are getting your Christmas project done.

Kev