The Aerodrome Studio - Machine_Punk

[machine_punk]

Design Issues - Aero Guitar Stand

I've been designing a gift for a family member, a guitar stand, for a guy who teaches guitar for a living. I was trying to make as much of it out of 0.040" aluminum sheet as possible, since I knew it would be able to support the weight, if designed properly, it is easier to bend the thinner material, and I usually tend to be heavy-handed in my designs. I really want to start building with sheet metal, not plate or bar...and designed specifically to overcome the weaknesses of sheet metal and to allow fastening with rivets.

There are two identical parts on this guitar stand, which connect the bottom panels, to prevent them from spreading, and provide a place for mounting the rubber feet. Here, you see the old design in the front. It uses 0.040" aluminum and the stiffening flanges end before the end quite a bit before the end of the part. The set of two holes nearer the end will attach the brace to the bottom panel with rivets. The set of three holes further from the end will have an anchor nut, for attaching the rubber feet with 10-32 screws. Once I cleco'd that in place, it was evident that the weak point was where the stiffening flanges ended and all the weight of the stand was applied. That wasn't going to work. Fortunately, I now have the Baileigh 3-in-1 sheet metal machine and that makes for very quick fabrication of simple parts like this...

The new part, on the right, has the stiffening flanges going all the way to the end of the part. This is the far superior design. Since I had to make a new part anyway, and it was clear that this was a critical, load-bearing part, I went ahead and chose 0.080" aluminum for the second part. This was definitely the way to go.

I don't always get things right on the first go-around, but I do learn something new about design and fabrication with every new project. Sometimes the simpler-to-make part works better than the more-complex part.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Completed! Aero Guitar Stand

Whew...after staying up until two AM and finishing up on Christmas Eve day morning, I finally finished it...and none too soon, since we had our extended-family Christmas celebration on Christmas Eve night and that is when I had to have the present ready.

Here you go...just going to post a bunch of pics with a few comments.

I used leather pads everywhere the guitar would touch the stand (thanks, GirlInAGarage for the tips on using leather). I bought a 'side' of leather for this project. I cut the pieces large, attached them with contact cement, then trimmed the edges to the aluminum with a sharp knife. I scuffed up the aluminum with a sandpaper ROLOC disc mounted in a pneumatic grinder, so it would grip the contact cement...

This top cover piece also supports a fair amount of weight of the guitar, so I also used 0.080" aluminum and lots of flanges to stiffen this piece. The actual pad where the leather is attached is 0.125" aluminum. All the rivets you 'see' are universal head rivets (a flattened dome head) and the rivets under the leather pads are countersink rivets. I ended up polishing the solid aluminum rivets in this project, instead of leaving them with the normal anti-corrosion coating (which is a yellowish color, similar to matte magnesium)...

Here, you see the anchor nut for attaching the rubber foot. These are floating anchor nuts. You rivet them permanently to the sheet metal and they give you a captive nut to attach objects which need to be removed occasionally (usually an inspection hatch on an airplane, where you don't normally have access to the back of the panel). I just used them here to stick with the aeroplane theme and give me a place to attach rubber feet with 10-32 machine screws. These lower guitar support brackets are also made out of 0.125" aluminum, which was run through the roller...

Here you see another anchor nut (also called a nut plate) in the back, along with one of the inscriptions, which was stamped with steel stamps...

"0001" (serial number one),
"THE AERODROME STUDIO"
"M_P" (my maker's mark...for Machine_Punk).

The other side says:
"CHRISTMAS 2012"
"FOR CHRIS L-----"

And a few shots with the guitar in place...

I ended up using every part of the Baileigh 3-in1 on this project...the shear, the brake, and the roll. It is definitely speeding up fabrication for me...
View media item 20569
Merry Christmas to all!

Kev

 

[Nighttrain]

Now that's top notch! Very nice work your doing. I've been looking at a 3-1 tool, just for little jobs. Merry Christmas!

 

[kloomis]

Great job Kev, Please share your thoughts on the 3 in 1 for all us garage builders out there with limited space and the need for multiply tools. Thanks

 

[machine_punk]

Now that's top notch! Very nice work your doing. I've been looking at a 3-1 tool, just for little jobs. Merry Christmas!

Thanks! It is a bit odd really...most of my projects are still around the house somewhere. I built this so quickly and on the day I actually completed it, it's gone to its new home already. I had to ask the recipient to let me take pictures after he opened it, because I had to wrap it nearly immediately after completing it.

Thanks for taking the time to comment.

Great job Kev, Please share your thoughts on the 3 in 1 for all us garage builders out there with limited space and the need for multiply tools. Thanks

For limited space, I highly recommend the Baileigh 5216 3-in-1. It is huge (1200 pounds). While I haven't tried it much on sheet steel yet, I've been very happy with its performance on aluminum. The press brake isn't my favorite, but I am beginning to work around its limitations. This machine definitely needs adjustment and setup, but I am sure all metalworking tools are that way.

Overall, I'm becoming a bit more comfortable with all of its functions and getting much faster and more accurate using it (and making less scrap metal with it). I would certainly prefer a large shed, full of vintage American iron, but since I have such a limited amount of space in the studio, this is a nice compromise.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Letter Stamps

Finally got these photos edited...closeups of the letter stamping I did on the Aero Guitar Stand.

0001 (serial number 1)
THE AERODROME STUDIO
M_P (my maker's mark...for Machine_Punk)...

CHRISTMAS 2012
FOR CHRIS L------

The funny thing is that I had my steel letter stamps still out on the workbench when Mrs. Machine_Punk came out to ask me something the next day. She picked the larger set up (not seen in these photos) and took a good look at them. I asked what she thought of them. She said, "I won't sell these." (which refers to a discussion we had a few months ago, stating that if something were to happen to me, she would not feel sentimental to my tools and would sell them off). I asked what she would do with the letter stamps. "Oh, I don't know, I'd find something to do with them, but they are too cool to sell."

Hee hee.

I think I'm getting better at this letter stamping business (much straighter lines and more-even spacing), but it is harder than it seems. I actually usually start in the MIDDLE of the line, so I can make sure it is lined up where I want it on the piece, then work my way backwards and forwards to the front and end of the word or set of words.

For instance, in THE AERODROME STUDIO, I mark the center of the set of words an put the second "O" in aerodrome there. I then work left with "R, D, O, R, E, A, space E, H, & T," then I work to the right with "M, E, space, S, T, U, D, I & O" I always write the letters I am going to stamp onto the piece, just above or below where I will stamp, with the 'center' letter exactly on the center line I marked on the piece. Then I double-check the spelling again, before beginning to mark. Then I lay out the letters in as much of the right order as possible (if there is more than one of a letter in a word, it must be used more than once, since there are no duplicates in the set.)

The letter "I" is very hard to space, since it takes up so little of the face of the stamp (and it requires a MUCH lighter tap on the hammer than any other letter).

I use a piece of aluminum angle, clamped to the workpiece, to keep everything straight, but there is still a LOT of 'feel' to getting it right.

Kev

 

[racingtadpole]

Sweet gift, lot of thought goes into something like that. I think I would have been tempted to punch a couple of holes in the larger sides and put some flared holes in them to make it look even more aircraft like.

 

[machine_punk]

Sweet gift, lot of thought goes into something like that. I think I would have been tempted to punch a couple of holes in the larger sides and put some flared holes in them to make it look even more aircraft like.

I was more than tempted...it was in the original plan. I spent a GREAT deal of time trying to figure out how to evenly and artistically space 3 differently-sized holes on each side of the main panels...then gave up in frustration. Actually, I stopped trying simply because of time. I only had four weeks from the "Maybe I'll make him a guitar footstool" (a 4-inch riser you place your foot on while playing guitar seated...it makes it much more comfortable to correctly hold a guitar. My plan was to make a very industrial guitar foot stool, with aluminum sheet, rivets, and some tire tread material I have), to when the project was due to be completed.

I spent the first week thinking about the industrial guitar foot stool, then decided I'd rather build a guitar stand. Now, I was down to three weeks until the project was due. Give me about a week for design, then time to start actually mocking up and fabricating. Add into that that I have never worked with leather before. Add into that the fact of holiday craziness, work, and family, and I really didn't have a lot of time to develop this project (as it is, I finished it at 2AM on the day I had to give it away, got a few hours sleep, got up and put the final touches on it, then went to the family gathering where I gave it away).

I definitely plan to use those holes on future projects (properly called 'lightening holes,' not because the produce a peal of lightning during a raging thunderstorm, but because they 'lighten' the piece by removing unnecessary material. They also significantly increase the stiffness of wide panels, because the flange on the edge of the lightening hole). I just haven't used them YET...and that was too many new things to get going in a project which only had three weeks to incubate from initial idea to finished project. As it was, the cardboard box I put this in already felt 'empty' when I gave it to him. It is amazing how light things made of aluminum are...even without lightening holes.

I have some Greenlee hole punches for putting smaller lightening holes in projects. I have seen how to do the flange on those holes in a very aeroplane-like manner too. See this video, from the EAA website...
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=820371239001

If I had more time, I would have put even more rivets into it. It certainly has enough for the strength it will need, but I would like to have added a lot more rivets 'just for looks.'

I would not have normally put a serial number on the 'first' of an item...it is usually marked with "-PROTOTYPE-" and the date of completion and never intended to leave the studio. Since it was, however, leaving the studio, I went ahead and marked it as 'the first,' with serial number 0001.

Thanks for the kind words and taking the time to post! The recipient seemed truly pleased, along with the rest of the family at the get-together.

Kev

 

[racingtadpole]

HAHAHA.... yes, it can be a pain to get the holes in the right spot to make it look right.
The important thing is the bloke you built it for liked it

 

[luvit]

hey, man. i;m glad i can't sleep and peeked into your thread.
that aero guitar stand turned out great!
a quality piece which isn;t mass produced adds to the interest and beauty

 

[machine_punk]

cool! you play air guitar, too?
look, you may want to copy my air guitar stand idea.. i can't believe how perfect it is and all the comments i get on it's awesomeness.
here's a pic of it holding my flying-v air guitar

.

hey, man. i;m glad i can't sleep and peeked into your thread.
that aero guitar stand turned out great!
a quality piece which isn;t mass produced adds to the interest and beauty

Thanks! Sorry to hear you aren't sleeping, but pleased that you stopped by and made a comment. The fact that you (and I) are on the forum at the same time as the Australians is NOT a good sign, especially when they are pretty much exactly half way around the world!

As I said earlier, my version of the AERO guitar stand turned out very light...it almost felt like I was giving Chris an empty box, but it was nowhere near as light as your AIR guitar stand! (although your flying-V air guitar is cool, dude)

Kev

 

[E.rodz]

nice job on the stand! I have a huge fascination with rivets as well I might have to hit you up for some info thanks for being inspirational to us.

 

[Zeke]

I thought there were some kind of stamp holders so I looked.

http://www.projectsinmetal.com/forum/metalworking-projects/letter-stamp-holder/

Also, after looking at that video using the dowel with a slot, I'd spend the 12 bucks for this:

At Sky Geek.

 

[machine_punk]

ZEKE: I've looked in depth at stamp holders...for the hobbyist, though, they are rather expensive. They get more expensive as the holders get longer. Then you need one for every size of letter you want to use.

I think I may end up with one of these (or, more likely, the straight punch style), strictly for doing serial numbers. Then, I just need 5 digits and I can get a fairly large font (I generally use a one-letter year code, followed by a 4-number serial number...I cannot imagine ever building more than 9,999 of anything...and if I do, then getting a longer serial number on it will be the least of my worries.)

I actually don't mind a little bit of the 'hand-crafted' look. I don't need the lettering to be perfect, just well-done. I'm pretty pleased with the level I am at on lettering. The lines are much straighter than they used to be, I just need to figure out some of the spacing better.

I do plan to get an actual 'maker's mark' made, though. Something like a capital 'M' with the round part of the capital 'P' stuck to the right vertical leg of the M. After looking at some of the stuff over on the Homemade Tools Forum, I think I may be able to make my own maker's stamp. We'll see.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

nice job on the stand! I have a huge fascination with rivets as well I might have to hit you up for some info thanks for being inspirational to us.

I'm pleased to think that a few folks may want to add rivets to their projects, after seeing my work. You can see a link to my still-very-much-a-work-in-progress "Solid Rivets 101" thread in my signature.

Thanks for the kind words and taking the time to post.

Kev

 

[racingtadpole]

The fact that you (and I) are on the forum at the same time as the Australians is NOT a good sign, especially when they are pretty much exactly half way around the world!

You make it sound like we smell or something

Also, after looking at that video using the dowel with a slot, I'd spend the 12 bucks for this:

At Sky Geek.

Thanks.. yet another tool I have to buy....

 

[machine_punk]

You make it sound like we smell or something



Thanks.. yet another tool I have to buy....

Australians PROBABLY don't smell any worse than Americans...but I've never been to Australia to find out I do, however, know that we have radiologists (X-Ray doctors) in Australia who read our X-Rays at night in the U.S., because it is daytime in Australia and everyone gets to sleep normal hours that way. One of those things which was made possible by current technology...we send our electronic copies of x-rays to Australia to be read, because it is cheaper than paying a Radiologist to work overnight in the U.S.

OH...that link finally showed the picture on my screen (I saw the link, and thought it was a link to where to buy the tool in the previous photo. I've seen that too. There are several versions. I will actually probably make or buy flanging dies for the sizes I commonly use...then just use the dowel or ball bearing tool when I need odd sizes of holes.

Thanks for all the ideas, guys!

Kev

 

[shopnut]

Re: Completed! Aero Guitar Stand

That guitar stand turned out really nice. You should be proud.

If Mrs. Shopnut wasn't partial to hanging hers on the wall, I'm sure she would love to have one.

 

[mdbeck1]

Re: Completed! Aero Guitar Stand

That guitar stand turned out really nice. You should be proud.

If Mrs. Shopnut wasn't partial to hanging hers on the wall, I'm sure she would love to have one.

Shopnut....

can you say "Birthday Present"?

 

[machine_punk]

Re: Completed! Aero Guitar Stand

That guitar stand turned out really nice. You should be proud.

If Mrs. Shopnut wasn't partial to hanging hers on the wall, I'm sure she would love to have one.

Thanks!

It's kinda funny, I had other plans for the bottom guitar brackets, but time, and necessity, are the mother of design. I was going to build rather complicated brackets, which could be removed and changed out (thin one for electric guitars, wider for acoustic guitars). It was midnight, in 14 hours I had to give the project away as a gift. I have a slip roll. Hmmm...maybe that would work!

The bottom brackets ended up looking like elephant tusks...which got me to thinking, if I make more of these, perhaps I could push the design more to an elephant theme, and call it the 'tusque' (tusk).

Kev

 

[gorilla]

What do you do to keep your aluminum projects from oxidizing and from showing finger prints? I've washed parts with hot water and dish soap and then waxed them with paste wax with reasonable results.

 

[machine_punk]

What do you do to keep your aluminum projects from oxidizing and from showing finger prints? I've washed parts with hot water and dish soap and then waxed them with paste wax with reasonable results.

I don't really do anything to keep my aluminum projects from oxidizing. In fact, the "vintage," oxidized look is what I am going for.

Here is what I do for the signature satin finish on The Aerodrome Studio's projects:
- Use a 3M ROLOC surface-conditioning disc (the blue one...essentially a mini, blue, 3M Scotchbrite pad) on a 90-degree pneumatic die grinder to debur the part. I often go ahead and hit the whole piece with this disc, to remove any minor scratches from fabrication and put an even finish on the piece. Larger scratches and gouges I even out with the red ROLOC disc, then hit the whole surface with the blue or gray ROLOC disc.

- Rub the whole piece, by hand, in one direction, with a scruffy pad (gray 3M Scotchbrite pad), lubricated with copious amounts of isopropyl alcohol (common rubbing alcohol from the pharmacy section). This leaves a LOT of black stuff on the piece (I assume tiny bits of aluminum).

- Run the piece under warm running water to remove most of the black stuff.

- Rub the piece down with a clean cloth and rubbing alcohol, to remove the rest of the black (swarf?) and any fingerprints from handling.

That's it. I don't cover it with anything or wax it or paint it. Within a few moments, it develops aluminum oxide on top of the light, satin finish from the scruffy pad. After a few weeks, it looks like it's years old...which makes me happy.

I just use another dose of rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth (usually paper towel) to remove any fingerprints.

The bottle I use for applying rubbing alcohol in the studio. These come in a 3-pack at HF for just a couple of dollars. It has lasted for months. I think I'm going to use one for air tool oil too...
View media item 13986
90-degree die grinder, rubbing alcohol, ROLOC adapter (allows you to put on, or take off, special surface conditioning discs or sandpaper with 1/2 turn of the disc)...
View media item 13256
View media item 13255
Surfacing a small part by die grinder, then by hand...
View media item 13258
View media item 13259
Kev

 

[machine_punk]

Whew...been busy, between work and a bathroom remodel, I have been burning the candle at both ends.

Just got the tile grouted today, so we will be finished soon. Already pulled out the toilet/sink/cabinet, fixed a sub-floor problem (water leak), fixed a section of squeaky floor, installed the HardiBacker board, set the tile, and just grouted it. Mrs. Machine_Punk repainted the walls and repainted the cabinet. We still have to install new switches and outlets (updating to the futura style), reinstall the toilet, reinstall the newly-painted cabinet, and install the new sink/counter combination. Then just some touch-up painting, caulking, and trim work.

So, haven't really done much out in the studio in the past couple of weeks.

Did get a couple of cool items recently. I've been watching for a set of ratcheting wrenches over the past few months (seeing Edd use them on Wheeler Dealers was final straw--had to find a set--they look like a tool which can be really handy in certain situations). I decided on the GearWrench brand. I really would have liked to make the jump to Proto this purchase, but the truth is that I really don't use standard wrenches often...just a handful of times a year. After watching a few threads, I decided that GearWrench was the best bang for the buck.

The only 'had-to-have' feature for me was 'reversing.' I know it is possible to get ratcheting wrenches stuck in a place you cannot get them out, if they don't reverse. I would have liked to have flexing wrenches, but that was not a 'must.' I know HD sells GearWrench and I received an HD gift card for Christmas. The ones I wanted were only online (just a few dollars more for the GearWrench 8-piece sets, over the in-store Husky 7-piece sets). I got two sets of eight wrenches. I got most of the SAE set with the gift card, then went ahead and added the metric set as well...

Also saw something I couldn't pass up on eBay. An industrial, almost-all-metal drop light. Never saw this type before. I ran across it accidentally, while looking at some other things...

Kev

 

[Bogdan M.]

Great choice on purchasing the gearwrench set, is very high quality and at a good price.
Also a great find is the drop light, I search for something like that also.
The new stuff is very poor quality.

I have read your entire thread and I can say that what you are doing is more art than craft.

 

[machine_punk]

Great choice on purchasing the gearwrench set, is very high quality and at a good price.
Also a great find is the drop light, I search for something like that also.
The new stuff is very poor quality.

I have read your entire thread and I can say that what you are doing is more art than craft.

Thank you for the kind words! I try to build things which both look good and are practical.

Kev

 

[Mohawk Dave]

Awesome work on everything you do MP! I've been following and referring back to your ways since I've joined GJ. Rivets are now widely used in my shop.

However, I had a question about the stamps. Maybe I missed it... If one does not use a stamp-holder, couldn't you punch a letter, say the "A" in "Aerodrome" and when you went to stamp the "e", you placed the "A" in the indent it just created and then snug the "e" stamp right next to it, keep in place, remove the "A" stamp and then punch the "e"? If all the stamps have the same "body" dimensions, wouldn't this make for, theoretically, perfect spacing? Or am I totally missing something?

Once again, beautiful work and thanks for sharing!

 

[machine_punk]

Thanks, Mowhawk, for following my work and taking the time to comment! I'd like to see some pics of the way you are using rivets in your shop now.

You would think that would work, wouldn't you! And, you could do it that way and end up with the same as being stamped by a device which holds them all together. The problem is that I want more natural spacing. The width of each letter varies, even though the width of the stamp is the same.

Think of the old typewriter fonts, with fixed spacing of letters (Courier is one of them). The computer is able to adjust the space between letters to give them all the same 'amount' of empty space (a concept called 'kerning' in font terminology), so they 'look' evenly spaced, even though they are closer or further away from each other (the "i" is the classic example...it looks way too far away from the letters next to it if you actually space it evenly...and the "w" looks to crammed together). Here are a couple of all-capitals examples, since the letter stamps are all caps.

THIS IS COURIER NEW, A FIXED-SPACING FONT
IT HAS THE SAME SPACING FROM ROW TO ROW
NOTICE THAT SPACES AND LETTERS HAVE THE
SAME SPACING. EVEN THE PUNCTUATION DOES.

THIS IS CENTURY GOTHIC, A VARIABLE-SPACING FONT. LETTERS
AND SPACES DON"T LINE UP EXACTLY BELOW THE LETTERS ABOVE.

The problem is that the font on my stamps is designed to be a variable spacing font (the 'i' is just a straight line: |, and doesn't have the little horizontal lines--called arms--at the top and bottom to fill out the wider space, like Courier does) (Notice that Century Gothic doesn't have arms on the capital I, but fonts like Verdana use narrower arms, to allow for adjustable spacing), BUT, each letter is on a stamp exactly the same width, unlike 'newspaper type,' which had different width type for each character.

So, I want to use these stamps as a variable-spacing font...and that has taken a bit of practice. I've found that working with stamps and getting them lined up and looking good gets A LOT easier with practice. There is definitely a feel to it, including hitting certain letters lighter and other letters harder, making sure the letter is flat on the work before striking it, hitting the stamp squarely, and so on. It becomes almost second nature the more you do it. Just like riveting, though, I NEVER stamp letters without a bit of warm up...practicing on scrap. I suppose if I did this every day, I'd be OK, but little things like remodeling a bathroom can take me away from the studio for three weeks at a time.

They do make much better letter stamps than the ones I am using (HF), but they are rather spendy...at $350 for a set. I would particularly like to have the set which imitates the old, standard typewriter font. For that kind of money, though, I have other things to buy first. I'd like to get a small run of identification plates made first, to attach to my finished pieces. Here is an early example, but I have a new logo coming soon (see next post)...

That was probably a bit longer of an answer than you were looking for...but it is what is going on in my head when I am making decisions like these. It is a wonder I ever get anything done in the studio.

Thanks for taking the time to post!

 

[machine_punk]

Keep a watch out for my new logo. I've been really tired of the 'double aerofoil' in my avatar for a while (it is instantly recognizable, but fairly uninspired). I cannot figure out how to change that avatar in the forum (I was able to change the avatar on my GJ Member Page, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/member.php?u=82321, but it wouldn't change on the forum.) The newer avatar is a wind sock, which was the only real defining object of an early aerodrome, which was basically a big grass field with a wind sock in the middle of it. The pilot simply landed whichever way he needed to, depending on the wind...

The guys at Aero 1946 were giving me a critique on that logo (that it is not universally recognized as a wind sock and could have other, more derogatory interpretations), so I have been looking for a new logo for The Aerodrome Studio.

I was discussing this with Mrs. Machine_Punk, who gave me an outstanding idea, to create a pair of 'wings' (i.e. like the pilots wings that pilots wear on their uniforms as a symbol of their position or rating as a pilot). That got the wheels spinning and I've got some ideas. I particularly like the Art Deco style, so I am including Art Deco elements into the logo. I want to be able to stamp (actually, 'emboss') the design into metal, so I am sticking with simple line art. I've got a quick drawing so far, but I want to let it sit for a while and refine it a bit before showing it.

Kev

 

[Sunbimmer]

Wow Machine Punk I'm very impressed by your work
Your devotion to "the rivet" is truly unique.
I read through this thread and was amazed but even more so on your other thread
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172474
Please keep us updated, I'm very interested.

 

[Mohawk Dave]

MP, THANK YOU! for taking so much time in that response. I am glad it was long winded. You are a scholar and a gentleman. As far as your new logo, and I'm sure you know this, but keep toying with it, and eventually you will create one and it will hit you like a ton of bricks and you'll say, "THAT'S IT!". So good luck on that and keep us posted!

 

[Bogdan M.]

@machine_punk: Have you thought of selling some custom stuff?
For example, I would definitely buy some magnetic trays with your great design and riveting.

 

[machine_punk]

Wow Machine Punk I'm very impressed by your work
Your devotion to "the rivet" is truly unique.
I read through this thread and was amazed but even more so on your other thread
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172474
Please keep us updated, I'm very interested.

Thank you. I certainly plan to keep everyone updated SOMEWHERE. I've been happy with Garage Journal, but I am out of picture storage space in my albums, so I have been keeping my pictures on my blog site (see my signature line). So, I've been wondering why I don't just keep the blog updated and post less here. I do intend for my work to be visible somewhere, though. If life ever slows down, I'll have to get going on the Solid Rivets 101 post again.

MP, THANK YOU! for taking so much time in that response. I am glad it was long winded. You are a scholar and a gentleman. As far as your new logo, and I'm sure you know this, but keep toying with it, and eventually you will create one and it will hit you like a ton of bricks and you'll say, "THAT'S IT!". So good luck on that and keep us posted!

You are welcome! My pleasure. I agree with the logo. It is getting there...and I will know when it is 'just right.' Then, you'll see it plastered all over everything.

@machine_punk: Have you thought of selling some custom stuff?
For example, I would definitely buy some magnetic trays with your great design and riveting.

YES! I have thought of selling The Aerodrome Studio projects. I would love for the studio to become self-supporting and become my primary source of income. I suspect, in the end, I will primarily design objects and hire local craftsmen to build them.

One of the minor issues is that I am not the only person in this business. I have a great deal of respect for Rolf and Reinhard, the guys over at Aero 1946...
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160486&highlight=1946

http://aero-1946.de/

I absolutely love their stuff and I want to make sure I don't duplicate items they have, or plan to, produce. I just finished designing and building the Aero Guitar Stand, which was a gift for a relative. I do like the design, though and may consider making a few for sale, if I find enough interest. I recently came up with a design for a wine rack/carrier I plan to develop and build. It will hold three wine bottles and can sit on the counter, be mounted on the wall, or be hand carried. This should be a popular product, since I live in the heart of Napa Valley, California. I plan to build six of them to start, then try to get them sold at local events or craft stores.

The other issue is that it really is just me right now and as much as I'd love to focus on the business, family is very important to me. I only have a few years left to get the boys 'on the right track,' before they are out of my house and living their own lives. With work, two teenagers, a wife, and church, there is a lot which needs to get done each week. Aside from the building of projects, the actual design process takes a great deal of effort and time. It is something which cannot really be rushed, if you want products which stick out as being 'different and spectacular.' I work very hard to come up with designs which not only look great, but perform well and incorporate elegant design solutions.

Also, this is really just a hobby for me right now. It is what I do to relax. I'm not sure yet that I want to start doing it as 'work.' I have years of projects to finish for my own work space...so it is tough to try building projects for others.

In general, I have finally reached the point where I have a good selection of tools to build a production-level product. Some of these tools are highly-specialized and very expensive (even on the used market). The Baileigh 3-in-1 sheet metal machine significantly increased my production abilities, but that was nearly $2,000 US, by the time it was shipped and installed. Oddly enough, materials are relatively negligible in the whole scope of this and probably won't even be added into the 'cost' of products. As we discussed earlier, a professional level of steel letter stamps costs in the range of $350 US. I have a fairly nice 'hobby budget,' but it has taken a couple of years to build up the thousands of dollars of tools and equipment I have for the studio.

Part of the problem is figuring out what people might want to buy--and be willing to pay a reasonable price for. I designed my Reconfigurable Tool Rack and Custom Tool Boards from the beginning as something which could be sold and customized to customers' needs. I cannot imagine someone paying me what it would take to build that for them, but I'm open to doing it if someone has the money. I've had little bits of interest on the picture frame, but when I wrote back with the details and cost, the interest was suddenly gone. In this world of cookie-cutter, overseas factory production, it is VERY hard to sell hand-made items for the price it would take to actually make a living doing it.

While a custom magnetic tool tray is a very cool idea, the average Joe isn't going to spend much on one, because it is something you can get just about anywhere for a few Euro's. I think there are a handful of folks who might be interested in paying a little more for something like that, just because I put it together with a few rivets, put a serial number on it, and stamped it 'The Aerodrome Studio,' but it's not something really worth tooling up for, except perhaps to have a short run of an annual 'Christmas Edition,' or something.

Although some parts of the studio I have been running like a business from the beginning (like how I handle model names and serial numbers), I don't actually have simple things, like a good logo, nailed down yet. (I am getting close, there, though).

So, yes, I have thought a little about selling projects from The Aerodrome Studio. It would be fabulous to leave my day job, hire a couple of metal artisans, and make The Aerodrome Studio a 'going concern.' When The Aerodrome Studio makes it, it will definitely not be an 'overnight success.' So far, many months of blood, sweat, and tears have gone into the studio.

Kev

 

[shopnut]

I cannot figure out how to change that avatar in the forum

Unless things are set up differently for you than me, you should be able to select "User CP" from the black menu bar near the top of the forum page (right below the GJ logo). Once in the Control Panel, select "Edit Avatar" from the menu on the left under "Settings & Options". Then "Browse..." on Option 2 to upload from your computer.

The User CP is the same place you edit your signature.

 

[machine_punk]

Unless things are set up differently for you than me, you should be able to select "User CP" from the black menu bar near the top of the forum page (right below the GJ logo). Once in the Control Panel, select "Edit Avatar" from the menu on the left under "Settings & Options". Then "Browse..." on Option 2 to upload from your computer.

The User CP is the same place you edit your signature.

Yes...that does not work for me, for some reason. It will change the avatar on the Member Page, but it doesn't change it on the forum.

Kev

 

[machine_punk]

This was the first day in A LOOONG time I was able to do what I wanted. It was rather refreshing. As you can see, I had time to update this thread this morning. I got home this afternoon and it was absolutely beautiful outside...around 60 degrees. Since I have a very tight studio and a lot of wood in there, I prefer to weld outside. I was trying to figure out which of three projects I wanted to work on and the beautiful weather pushed me toward the welding project.

On to the project. I purchased this 20-Ton shop press a couple of months ago. I've been wanting one for a LONG time. The regular 20% coupon is good enough deal for most ($40 off the $200 normal price). I watched and watched and watched, until I found a super coupon to get the 20-ton press for $150 plus tax.

I wanted to put casters on all 4 corners of the press, since it will probably live outside the shop for now, and only come in when I need it (or I'll take the hydraulic bottle jack outside, when I need the press). But, I have a different way I like to do casters. I prefer to have tools and benches sit on their own legs, unless I need to move them. I've taken care of that a couple of different ways. First, for heavy things, I use wheel dollies and my 12-ton, air-over-hydraulic, bottle jack to lift it onto the dollies...
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For smaller benches, I came up with this system about 15 years ago. You put a set of wheels on one end of the bench and mount them in such a way that they just clear the ground. Then, you simply lift up the other end of the bench, like an awkward wheel barrow, and move the bench wherever you need it. This is the right system for the 20-ton press...
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You see the rest of this bench on the left in this picture...
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Here the 20-ton press sits, waiting to be assembled for the past couple of months, since I wanted to modify it and add wheels. Since I am a welder now, with the new Oxy-Acetylene setup, I thought I'd weld some tabs onto the legs and mount the wheels on those tabs. To take the welding theme even further, I decided to actually weld the wheels on...

Here, I've ground back the paint (must have been powder coated...it was tough to get off), so I can weld that area. OH! Notice the new CH HANSON locking pliers I am trying out. They are AMAZING. Unlike most Vice Grips, you just have to set the pressure once, then it automatically adjusts to the thickness of your piece. No more fidgeting with the pressure setting 4 times, every time you want to clamp something with Vice Grips. I'm sold on this tool...

I got some mini angle magnets at HF. I really got my welder to weld aluminum, but I figured I might have some occasional steel projects where they might come in handy. This is that project. Welding the tabs in place...

Done. Not the best weld ever, but I've only got about 6 practice welds with OA so far and it's been a good 2 months since I've even touched the welding rig. I worked in a lot of short sessions today, and shut the system down between most welds. I wanted to get in the proper habits of turning the system on and shutting it down...

Setting up to weld on the casters. I just put a tack on each corner, then went back and cut off the extra part of the tab, then went back and put down a bead on the edge of the tab and caster...

Finished! Just in time for the sun to go down and it to get quite chilly outside. Well, not really. Don't you hate it when you weld the wheels on the wrong side? Oh well. I'll band saw these tabs off and weld them back on the other side. I'm also going to weld in some braces to support the casters, not that there is much weight in the press...

After I sort out the casters, I'll shoot it with a bit of primer and paint it up. It was nice to take a break from the bathroom remodel and pull out the welder again.

Kev

 

[Bogdan M.]

Thank you for your answer!
I am sure that your items will sell because even if you do have a competition, the market surely wants custom and unique things like you build.
As for the logo, it will eventually appear to you because it's a question of sudden inspiration.
I have made a few logos for my board in Romania and for my business and the main ideea is that a logo must be very simple.
Look at all the major brands logos and you won't see anything very complicated.
Less is more.

 

[Bogdan M.]

I had a bit of time and since I love art deco, I tried to make you a logo.

 

[ScubaSteve]

That ROCKS. I think we have a winner...

 

[aggierailroad]

Way back you mentioned Incra rules for layout. I got a couple for Christmas based on your recommendation.

In short, I love them. Wish I had them when I was laying out lines for a ton of mortise and tenon joints I had to cut. Now I'm going to sequester your tip for adding castors to my work bench. Thanks, and keep the good ideas coming!

 

[machine_punk]

I had a bit of time and since I love art deco, I tried to make you a logo.

Those are COOL. I definitely like that Art Deco font. Thanks for taking the time to work something up!