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Above 1200 Sq/FT The Barber Shop

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manwithtools

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Lebanon, TN
Oh boy ain't that some fun in a 4" wide trench. But you're making some progress MWT, looking good bud.

When I redid the front yard drainage on our place in cali I had a 600ft run from my high point to the creek. I could only pull off 1/16" of fall per ft. Having two 6" lines I went with an 18" wide bucket and sanded the bottom so I could nail the slope. Another words, I feel your pain.
I wish I would have gone 6". All I could find on short notice was a 4". 3" PVC barely fits, it's going to be a struggle in some places.
 
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manwithtools

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Well, it's time for an update. It's been a long winter and I've been fighting several issues, some shop related and some not. I've been in a general funk and have been in no hurry to pour concrete in the cold temperatures. Never could seem to work out the timing, that's okay I did not want to pour in risky temperatures.

The other issue was completing the under-slab plumbing and having it inspected before the concrete pour. I started the plumbing. but found out my back was not cooperating, so I found a plumber to complete the DWV system and thought we were past that obstacle. Part of the inspection is filling a 10' high standpipe connected to the DWV system with water and not having it loose any water for 15 minutes.

The first day I found it leaked down in less than 5 minutes, this meant a leak in the system. I tried to contact the plumber and even offered to pay him to fix what was likely his mistake. He totally ghosted me and I frankly didn't feel like fighting him over this. It took some doing, but I finally located the leak in a coupling on the 3" line that runs the full length of the building to the outside RV dump connection. The problem is this coupling was nearly 2' down in a 4" wide trench in the clay building pad. You can see it just barely in this picture:

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My back was not up to hand digging thru the rock hard clay, so a mini-ex was rented. A hole was dug large enough to work on the bad joint:

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This was going to be a pain in the *** to cut the pipe, pull it apart far enough to put a new coupling and another length of pipe and finally another coupling to allow the plumbing to all line up again.

There is about 40 feet of 3" PVC in a semi collapsed 4" wide trench that I needed to pull back 8-10" and then pull back together to make up the joint. No way I was moving that pipe by hand even with help from others.

After some late night dreaming about how to tackle this, I came up with the following idea: Use the winch on the Jeep to pull the pipe back together after using the tractor to pull the pipe apart. I need to have the Jeep close enough to the repair to be able to operate the remote control ( I sure wish this winch had wireless control). I parked the Jeep over the trench and ran the line outside to a ****** block attached to the Tacoma and then back to the pipe joint so I could get the pull in the right direction.

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I was concerned about aligning the pipe pieces while pulling them back together, so I designed and 3D printed a slip-fit "funnel" to help guide the repaired pipe back into the coupling. I only had one shot to get this right and one hand would be running the winch control, so not a lot of hands left over to guide the pipe into place. Pics of the "funnel" follow:

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This is the standpipe on the outside of the building, I put a strap around this and after cutting the PVC at the failed joint, I could pull the pipe back easily through the trench with the tractor bucket curl.

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I wish I had videoed the the pulling apart and back together operation as it worked well beyond my expectations. Here is a picture of the winch line and strap after having pulled the pipe back together:

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Once complete, I used an oscillating tool and cut the "funnel" off the coupling. Filled the system with water and 5 minutes later it was draining again :mad:. That meant another leak and the mini-ex had been returned by then :mad:.

I had no idea where the leak was and the trenches outside the building had collapsed over the pipe due to rain washing them shut. The next day I decide to dig down to the test cap at the lowest point in the system and work back from there. I am beyond upset at this point.

The test cap was about 2-1/2' down, just by the 2x4 in the picture with the Tacoma in it up above ^. After a fun round of digging by hand with a back brace on, I found the test cap and it was leaking:rocker:. Yes, no more digging. I put a real 3" PVC cap on, let the glue dry and then filled the standpipe again. After an hour, standpipe was still full. :thumbup:.

Inspection was called for and passed the next day! Concrete will now be this coming week or the following week! Sorry for the long post, just thought I would share the joys of working with the profesional plumber who left me with two bad glue joints and then totally ghosted me. I understand this was a small job, but I did after all offer to pay him to fix his mistakes...
 

LXCam

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Apr 23, 2013
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19,093
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AZ
Damn Dan, that’s a sucky story. But now that’s out of the way, when you going dump some mud?



Oh ya and one more thing. You know we’ve talked about this before. And I’m getting damn tired of reminding you to wear socks whenever you borrow my shoes
IMG_1638.jpeg
 
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manwithtools

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Aug 24, 2015
Messages
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Lebanon, TN
Damn Dan, that’s a sucky story. But now that’s out of the way, when you going dump some mud?



Oh ya and one more thing. You know we’ve talked about this before. And I’m getting damn tired of reminding you to wear socks whenever you borrow my shoes
IMG_1638.jpeg
Thanks Cam, should have concrete in the next week or so. Depends on rain now... BTW, I never wear shoes without socks, they may be short socks, but they are there. I can't stand the feeling of bare feet in shoes :)
 

BuffettFan

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Jul 11, 2017
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Location
Central Illinois
Damn.
Effin plumber. I'd be sure to leave an appropriate online review.

Glad to hear there's progress, and hope the non-stop storms are about done down there.
Wife talked to her daughter in Orlinda yesterday.
They were still getting beat on.
All of my side of the tennessee family is up here this weekend, freezing.
 

bugnut

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Jul 14, 2012
Messages
3,859
Location
Central Ohio
Dan, sounds like after much effort and pain, you got it done. Plumber side really ***** and I hate plumbing in general. Concrete is coming so progress made. I joke with the body guy on my project that 3am is the perfect time to lie awake and solve problems. Hope the back starts feeling better and you can get more accomplished!
 

Xti04

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Nov 11, 2016
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Lookin good! Hope your back gets better. Mine is driving me crazy right now as well and slowing progress for sure.
 
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manwithtools

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Aug 24, 2015
Messages
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Lebanon, TN
So, some commentary on the concrete prep. It seems every trade I've had so far I've had to be the QC department with the exception of the pole building itself. It's so aggravating, especially with the prices they are charging.

The floor has a ten foot long trench drain in one of the bays. They really struggled getting it layed out and I even offered a laser transit to assist, "No thanks" was the answer as they continued to struggle with their 24" level...

Later that afternoon, I took a moment to check things myself. Here's a 48" level on what supposed to be the high end of the trench.
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Clearly running uphill - high end is to the left in the photo. They had used stringline's from the bottom perimeter 2 x 8 to establish grade and to set the drain. Never bothered checking if that perimeter board was installed level (which it fortunately was). They snapped a line between posts on the 2 x 8. Line would represent top of the concrete, should have been 4" from the bottom of the 2 x 8. Turns out two or more layout guys and some were measuring 4" from the bottom up and some 4" from the top down. This would have made for a floor that varied by up to 3/4" over 8' in many cases. Some were correct on one end, and incorrect on the other. In the following pictures the blue chalk line is theirs and mine is the red chalk line. Had to have them show up early this AM so they could fix the drain before the concrete pour :mad: .

No telling what a mess the floor would have been if I hadn't intervened.

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Fortunately, the finishers seem to know what they are doing and it looks like it is going turn out okay in the end. Just frustrating that you have to watch supposed professionals so closely.

Doors and openers install is planned for Monday and closed cell spray foam for the following Monday. Epoxy is scheduled for June 2nd. I hope to get the electrical while waiting on epoxy.

And wouldn't you know it, they are not even done and I already have the invoice in my Inbox :)
 
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manwithtools

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Aug 24, 2015
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Lebanon, TN
Worked this weekend on some 3D printed mount blocks for my outside door lights to allow them to be exactly centered on the door openings:


I will post some installed pictures once they are complete.
 

HogDude

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2020
Messages
224
Location
Nebraska
Worked this weekend on some 3D printed mount blocks for my outside door lights to allow them to be exactly centered on the door openings:


I will post some installed pictures once they are complete.
"the old (teaser) trick" as Maxwell Smart might have said.
 

Luntz

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2020
Messages
212
Location
Franklin TN
How did I miss this earlier. Excellent looking finish on the concrete. The drain saga looked painful. Hope the back is feeling OK now.
I'm about an hour away in Franklin, exploring options of something very similar to your build.
Would you mind posting some general figures of the costs involved?
I really like how you chose to offset the shop from the position of your house.
 
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manwithtools

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Messages
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Lebanon, TN
Man this shop project is moving slow. Just lost a week to the need to install a drainage diversion ditch to keep water away from the front lawn and drive between the shop and house. It needed pretty my full attention to get it done right.

PXL_20250604_213016714.jpg


Now rain is in the forecast for the next several days, it's already washed into my trench that was dug for electrical conduit 2 days ago. I wouldn't be at all surprised to have to re-dig that trench.
 
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manwithtools

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I picked up a tool for the arsenal today to assist with finshing out the inside of the shop. These get down to a price where they don't change much if you take care of them. I expect to use this for a few months to finish the shop and then sell it to someone else looking to do the same. If it all works out it won't cost me anything, might even make a couple of dollars.

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larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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19,076
Location
Northern Virginia
Man this shop project is moving slow. Just lost a week to the need to install a drainage diversion ditch to keep water away from the front lawn and drive between the shop and house. It needed pretty my full attention to get it done right.

PXL_20250604_213016714.jpg


Now rain is in the forecast for the next several days, it's already washed into my trench that was doug for electrical conduit 2 days ago. I wouldn't be at all surprised to have to re-dig that trench.
Dan I feel your pain.

3-5 years ago when I trenched to the barn for utilities it freakin rained seemingly for ever only after I had a perfect dry ditch. Shoveled that ***** for what seemed an eternity.

Bad memories fortunately behind me. Your’s will be soon.
 
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manwithtools

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How did I miss this earlier. Excellent looking finish on the concrete. The drain saga looked painful. Hope the back is feeling OK now.
I'm about an hour away in Franklin, exploring options of something very similar to your build.
Would you mind posting some general figures of the costs involved?
I really like how you chose to offset the shop from the position of your house.
Sorry I missed your post and hello from Lebanon. You are welcome to visit anytime if you'd like discuss things and see it first hand.

As far as costs are concerned, I think I'll end up very close to $100k. This is with me doing the building pad, doing the plumbing, electrical (service and inside/outside wiring) and the inside finish including the bathroom and interior liner panel.

I contracted for just the pole structure to be erected (~ $45k), then I subbed out the concrete (~$11k) and garage doors (~$11k) directly to those contractors. Epoxy for the floor is ~$8500, spray foam closed cell insulation will be around ~$12k and mini splits around $7-8k. The other miscellaneous costs add up fast. This will have a full bath, so that adds to the cost. Turn key, I could see this building being $140+
 
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Luntz

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Jul 13, 2020
Messages
212
Location
Franklin TN
Thanks for the facts and figures Dan. That will be a great sized garage. Plenty of room for multiple projects.
Gives me a good basis for my build.
 
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manwithtools

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Some more progress, epoxy floor is now complete. Next week should spray foam insulation and maybe electrical rough in. Still moving much slower than I had hoped. Wet weather is slowing the infrastructure part down, trench that was dug last week for electrical is full of mud and semi-collapsing. A friend is going to bring his Kubota BX with backhoe later this week and leave it with me until I'm finished with the trenching and landscaping.

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Oh, last week the shop bathroom got hooked up to the existing septic tank. Much yard repair to do...

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bugnut

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Central Ohio
Dan, shop is looking sharp. The flooring you picked, is it supposed to hold up to turning tires and welding? I like the look compared to plain concrete. Thanks
 
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manwithtools

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So every project has it challenges, here's the latest for this build. Sorry for the long post.

I modeled the whole shop in 3D software. Then I transferred everything to the builders online software and subsequently received their quote and approval drawings. Somehow I missed the fact that I needed 3 - S32 Scissor Trusses and not the 2 they had designed in their package. This meant we needed to convert one A32 (Attic Truss) to a S32 (Scissor Truss). Since this is a permitted and inspected structure, I went back to the builder and truss manufacturer and asked for a remediation recommendation.

Delivery Receipt.jpg

Repair Truss parts and instructions are in the following image:
Reapir Truss Instructions.jpg

Sorry for the poor image quality. In the above Image are the Mono Jack Scabs that go from top of wall plate to the peak of the roof. These Mono Jack Scabs attach to the existing attic truss and then the Splice Scab is applied to the face of the Mono Jack Scabs and the existing Attic Truss using a combination of Simpson SDS Structural screws (3" and 4-1/2") in what seems like an obscenely overdone screwing schedule. See image above...


On Saturday, my son, SIL and SIL's - BIL all came over to help. They are all around 35 and in excellent physical shape. I seem to vaguely recall those days. Their help was invaluable and only cost some pool time and pizzas brought in for everyone. Did I mention it was oppressively hot? It was a solid 96, feels like 103. Cheers to the SIL's - BIL for taking the hot seat at the the top of the trusses - he's the one in the green shirt.

Figuring out how to get the truss pieces into position up inside the existing trusses took some pondering. Then I remembered my recent purchase of a Vevor wireless remote control winch. Also the purchase of a scissor lift proved invaluable. I can't imagine doing all of this off of ladders. Some creative rigging and we soon had pieces in place.

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So in the image above, you will notice that that the Splice Scab is applied to the existing Attic truss face, not the Mono Jack Scab faces as instructed in the repair procedure. That was my fault, all I had to do was read the instructions and tell the guys what to do while enjoying a beverage...

I woke up yesterday morning and reread the instructions for the 4th or 5th time. I then realized the Splice Scab needed to be on the opposite side of the truss assembly.

This was an "oh ****" moment. All the the young help is gone and I am not calling them back to fix my screw-up. Got out there yesterday morning for while and then again after a nice afternoon thunderstorm reduced the temperature by 25 degrees. Completed the work this AM before it got stupid hot.

Made a fixture for the scissor lift to take down the Splice Scab. Then - damn it - not enough room to allow reinstallation with that same fixture. Some judicious use of ratchet straps, the Vevor winch, straps, clevices, clamps and a lot of sweat and tears (literally, it was 127 degrees up there) and I finally got it back in place on the right side of the truss assembly. Tomorrow before the real heat set's in I will complete the screwing of all members together and remove the unused portion of the original scissor truss. Unbelievable how many screws this calls for. It did however prompt me to buy the latest generation of the Milwaukee M18 impact driver :)

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larry4406

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Messages
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Location
Northern Virginia
Nice Dan -

I had to do similar about 20 years ago. Converted a flat ceiling master bedroom to a vaulted ceiling but the roof was already shingled and windows were installed.

Told truss engineer I wanted a 2-piece truss with center plywood splice and wanted all new web members to align with the old web members. Being 2-piece I could get it thru the 8' front door and up the stairs. Gang nailed in place to existing truss, applied splice, and then chainsawed out the old. Look like hell but was legit.

As soon as the inspector walked into the house, I handed him the red-seal pack and said you want to see this.
 
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