The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[Odd-job]

@YesIHaveAHammer - waiting for you to buy it so I have an excuse to spend $40. I'll note I spent way more than $40 on my hot wax setup which is currently gathering dust because alas I realize I am too lazy to use it even waxing in batches. I have since realized that Shimano quick links are supposed to be used once?!? This further reinforces my laziness.

On a different note, I am finally converting my gravel bike to a 1x Di2 setup now that Shimano has gone wireless. Despite realizing I have accumulated 4 different bb90 tools somehow, I realized I didn't have a tool for the (newer?) bbr60.

Also having to learn through trial and error the nuances of converting an Enve hub from HG to microspline (figured out mine takes a Mavic ID360 freehub and is not Enve's newer innerdrive) as well as the different Wolf Tooth chainrings of which there are 3 kinds (most online stores stock Drop-stop B's but not the ST's yet don't specify what they carry very well). Anyways committed at least two ooopsies in ordering correct parts so far which of course has caused the bike build to take a month.

And then I still need to figure out if I can convert Industry 9 torch hubs to microspline. The mountain hubs seem to be a $200 conversion and the road hubs are SOL...

Am I getting old? or has parts and tool compatibility gone the way of more complexity, aka automotive? Don't remember struggling this much in the past. I guess I should be thankful I haven't had to think about investing in a specialized OEM diagnostic scanner to talk to my Shimano rear derailleur yet

 

[HannibalLecter]

@YesIHaveAHammer - waiting for you to buy it so I have an excuse to spend $40. I'll note I spent way more than $40 on my hot wax setup which is currently gathering dust because alas I realize I am too lazy to use it even waxing in batches. I have since realized that Shimano quick links are supposed to be used once?!? This further reinforces my laziness.

On a different note, I am finally converting my gravel bike to a 1x Di2 setup now that Shimano has gone wireless. Despite realizing I have accumulated 4 different bb90 tools somehow, I realized I didn't have a tool for the (newer?) bbr60.

Also having to learn through trial and error the nuances of converting an Enve hub from HG to microspline (figured out mine takes a Mavic ID360 freehub and is not Enve's newer innerdrive) as well as the different Wolf Tooth chainrings of which there are 3 kinds (most online stores stock Drop-stop B's but not the ST's yet don't specify what they carry very well). Anyways committed at least two ooopsies in ordering correct parts so far which of course has caused the bike build to take a month.

And then I still need to figure out if I can convert Industry 9 torch hubs to microspline. The mountain hubs seem to be a $200 conversion and the road hubs are SOL...

Am I getting old? or has parts and tool compatibility gone the way of more complexity, aka automotive? Don't remember struggling this much in the past. I guess I should be thankful I haven't had to think about investing in a specialized OEM diagnostic scanner to talk to my Shimano rear derailleur yet

Enve and industry9 are a big no no. Enve are overcomplicated and i9 have a habit of exploding. Dt swiss is the standard if you want to have a trouble free life.
The bbr60 is news to me.
As for quick links that's the instruction but no one does that. You can get 4-5 uses before they are too loose. I ain't spending 5€ everything I remove my chain lol

 

[Odd-job]

Enve and industry9 are a big no no. Enve are overcomplicated and i9 have a habit of exploding. Dt swiss is the standard if you want to have a trouble free life.
The bbr60 is news to me.
As for quick links that's the instruction but no one does that. You can get 4-5 uses before they are too loose. I ain't spending 5€ everything I remove my chain lol

Definitely thinking going forward I need to standardize with DT hubs going forward (seems like they have some ratchet upgrades now that don't totally tank reliability). I hear that other hub manufacturers are starting to use DT hub internals? I'm not sure if they mean similar or they actually drop in which is a big difference.

Have definitely been abusing Shimano quick links for a while without issue. Briefly thought about switching back to Connex/Wipperman chains, but between tariffs and availability they seem hard to come by. They also don't make their longer lasting chain in 12 speed form.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Definitely thinking going forward I need to standardize with DT hubs going forward (seems like they have some ratchet upgrades now that don't totally tank reliability). I hear that other hub manufacturers are starting to use DT hub internals? I'm not sure if they mean similar or they actually drop in which is a big difference.

Have definitely been abusing Shimano quick links for a while without issue. Briefly thought about switching back to Connex/Wipperman chains, but between tariffs and availability they seem hard to come by. They also don't make their longer lasting chain in 12 speed form.

Dt is the way to go, although I have some gripes with them. One, freehub friction. Not even close to my old mavic pawl hubs. Second, the exp hubs don't take anything other than a proprietary bearing which is only supplied from enduro bearings and dt themselves. Of course these bearings are Chinese sh*t and are a bit gritty from the beginning (they last though it seems)
As for the internals, this started from the big boom of Chinese wheels, which copied the mechanism of ratchets. Now, is it bang on the same, really doubt it. And then the rest of the manufacturers followed through, the patent expired as well

 

[Odd-job]

Dt is the way to go, although I have some gripes with them. One, freehub friction. Not even close to my old mavic pawl hubs. Second, the exp hubs don't take anything other than a proprietary bearing which is only supplied from enduro bearings and dt themselves. Of course these bearings are Chinese sh*t and are a bit gritty from the beginning (they last though it seems)
As for the internals, this started from the big boom of Chinese wheels, which copied the mechanism of ratchets. Now, is it bang on the same, really doubt it. And then the rest of the manufacturers followed through, the patent expired as well

Just to double check they/DT have updated the ratchet ring design across the board? Post #160 I posted about dealing with a jammed ring. Not sure if I want that learning experience that again.

Edit: I think I am willing to compromise on freehub friction, proprietary bearings, and less fine tooth ratcheting action for reliability and parts availability/interchangeability.

 

[CallumRD1]

My hub recommendation remains i9. I’m running their 60T road hubs on my road and gravel wheel sets and their 120T Torch hubs on my mountain bikes. They’ve been fantastic over tens of thousands of miles.

 

[HannibalLecter]

My hub recommendation remains i9. I’m running their 60T road hubs on my road and gravel wheel sets and their 120T Torch hubs on my mountain bikes. They’ve been fantastic over tens of thousands of miles.

I'm glad your experience is good but the hubs explode, they break axles, it is well documented

 

[HannibalLecter]

Just to double check they/DT have updated the ratchet ring design across the board? Post #160 I posted about dealing with a jammed ring. Not sure if I want that learning experience that again.

Edit: I think I am willing to compromise on freehub friction, proprietary bearings, and less fine tooth ratcheting action for reliability and parts availability/interchangeability.

When the original design patent expired, I think in 2023, they updated it with whats called the exp ratchet. Instead of having two ratchet rings tha can both freely axialy move, now you have only one moving, one spring and one is fixed to the hub body. Max teeth of this design is 72.
This is the way to go and they are pretty light as well. After that I'd go to extralite, if you want to fork insurmountable amount of money with not much reliability data

 

[CallumRD1]

I'm glad your experience is good but the hubs explode, they break axles, it is well documented

My understanding is that it's just the i9 Hydra hubs that are problematic, and as I said in my post, those aren't the ones I run. The road and Torch hubs have long had a reputation of being bombproof. There's no need to throw an entire company's products under the bus because one model they make has issues.

 

[Odd-job]

My understanding is that it's just the i9 Hydra hubs that are problematic, and as I said in my post, those aren't the ones I run. The road and Torch hubs have long had a reputation of being bombproof. There's no need to throw an entire company's products under the bus because one model they make has issues.

Glad you are having a good run on your torch hubs. I haven't put many miles on mine, but ironically ended up with them after breaking an axle and dealing with slipping pawls on a bitex hub. Conversely my best ownership experience has been cheap Novatec hubs, with no maintenance done.

 

[HannibalLecter]

My understanding is that it's just the i9 Hydra hubs that are problematic, and as I said in my post, those aren't the ones I run. The road and Torch hubs have long had a reputation of being bombproof. There's no need to throw an entire company's products under the bus because one model they make has issues.

I disagree

 

[kppolich]

Loyal DT Swiss guy here. DT240 Ratchets on 4 wheel sets in the house as well as a new set of DT180 EXPs on my road wheelset. They are just so sold and easy to maintain while having tons of options for free hubs, end caps, adapters etc and top notch customer service. You call and a human answers the phone you can answer your questions.

 

[duneslider]

Loyal DT Swiss guy here. DT240 Ratchets on 4 wheel sets in the house as well as a new set of DT180 EXPs on my road wheelset. They are just so sold and easy to maintain while having tons of options for free hubs, end caps, adapters etc and top notch customer service. You call and a human answers the phone you can answer your questions.

I have been mostly pretty happy with my DT swiss stuff. Lately though I seem to have run across several that after rebuild/service they have a lot of drag. Not sure what I am doing wrong but this isn't an issue I had prior to this season...
Not a fan of the DT swiss 4 pawl hubs though...

I have replaced multiple i9 axles, for myself and others. I think the axle is weak but I also suspect that if your bike doesn't have the lighter tapered rear thru axle you might not experience the issue. All the bikes I have worked on that had this issue had the tapered thru axle. Others that I know who haven't had issues do not have tapered thru axles. My experience is limited on the i9 hubs though.

 

[duneslider]

Have definitely been abusing Shimano quick links for a while without issue. Briefly thought about switching back to Connex/Wipperman chains, but between tariffs and availability they seem hard to come by. They also don't make their longer lasting chain in 12 speed form.

I reuse shimano links about 5 times, mixed results but generally okay.

YBN links are advertised as being able to be used 5 times. I have used them more than 5 times with good results. They seem to work fine on sram, shimano, and of course ybn chains. I personally like the YBN chains more than sram and shimano but I have NOT used the YBN chains on shimano 12spd drivetrains.

 

[slowtwitch73]

I9 rear hubs not so good. Much prefer Hugi.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I9 rear hubs not so good. Much prefer Hugi.

Hugi doesn't exist. Its all DT swiss now

 

[slowtwitch73]

Semantics^^

 

[HannibalLecter]

Semantics^^

Nope. Most dont know Hugi

 

[qdvuu]

Speaking of hubs, what about Onyx, with their quiet sprag clutches? I've seen a few IRL but neither I nor my pals have any actual riding experience on them. I have Chris Kings on my Open U.P. and the rear has the annoying loud noise they're known for. Not only is it noisy, but it is a cyclical pulsating noise, so the quiet sprag rear hub is appealing.

 

[Gebirgekind]

Speaking of hubs, what about Onyx, with their quiet sprag clutches? I've seen a few IRL but neither I nor my pals have any actual riding experience on them. I have Chris Kings on my Open U.P. and the rear has the annoying loud noise they're known for. Not only is it noisy, but it is a cyclical pulsating noise, so the quiet sprag rear hub is appealing.

Big fan of the Onyx hubs, no long term personal experience either but all the ones we've had come through have been in great shape and the silent running is sweet. We're in grizzly country though so loud hubs are a necessity. DT Swiss are definitely a solid workhorse hub that will keep on going, the flexibility with freehub bodies, tooth count upgrades, and end caps is awesome, and it's hard to beat the weight.

A special shoutout for White Industries, they're super well-crafted in the USA and IMO the most pleasant sounding out there. I know some people dislike the bearing preload on them but I've never had a problem.

 

[Gebirgekind]

Speaking of bears, I thought you all might appreciate this one - it’s tool adjacent and pretty neat. Our shop owner’s husband 3D prints these bear spray holsters for direct mounting to water bottle cages or strapping onto the frame: https://bearclawholster.com/

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Enve and industry9 are a big no no. Enve are overcomplicated and i9 have a habit of exploding. Dt swiss is the standard if you want to have a trouble free life.
The bbr60 is news to me.
As for quick links that's the instruction but no one does that. You can get 4-5 uses before they are too loose. I ain't spending 5€ everything I remove my chain lol

I’m also a big fan of DT Swiss. I got an Enve wheel set laced to 240s that’s lasted 15 years! Parts are cheap and they are easy to rebuild plus with the high engagement star ratchet they are damn instant.

If you own DT hubs, the Enduro hub tools are by far the best I’ve found for them and you can use them with an impact to remove the star ratchet nuts too.

Only quick links I’ve not had good luck with re-using is the T-type as the pins come out of them.

 

[duneslider]

I’m also a big fan of DT Swiss. I got an Enve wheel set laced to 240s that’s lasted 15 years! Parts are cheap and they are easy to rebuild plus with the high engagement star ratchet they are damn instant.

If you own DT hubs, the Enduro hub tools are by far the best I’ve found for them and you can use them with an impact to remove the star ratchet nuts too.

Only quick links I’ve not had good luck with re-using is the T-type as the pins come out of them.

Would you mind sharing which hub tools you are using for the DT hubs? Is it a set specific to them? I have a hodge podge of stuff and can't say I really like any of the hub tools I am using. I have also struggled a bit getting the star ratchets out, more so on the stupid 4 pawls and getting those out to change them to the star ratchet.

 

[boom_bap]

Speaking of bears, I thought you all might appreciate this one - it’s tool adjacent and pretty neat. Our shop owner’s husband 3D prints these bear spray holsters for direct mounting to water bottle cages or strapping onto the frame: https://bearclawholster.com/

This is awesome thanks for sharing now I need to get my hands on one..

I tend to ride w/o one so if I crash I don't get bombed. This seems like a decent way to keep it off your body.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Would you mind sharing which hub tools you are using for the DT hubs? Is it a set specific to them? I have a hodge podge of stuff and can't say I really like any of the hub tools I am using. I have also struggled a bit getting the star ratchets out, more so on the stupid 4 pawls and getting those out to change them to the star ratchet.

Enduro DT Swiss tools is what I use and then I added the DTSwiss 4 pawl too it(but the DT Swiss tool *****.
I also use Enduro hub and BB tool set if your interested in any of their tools send me a DM.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Finally, an 8mm 1/4 drive flare nut crowfoot, for use on expensive bike shifters and calipers. Actually both 7&8mm

 

[Odd-job]

^Ironically I just realized I was missing inconveniently an 8mm flare out of the tool collection during my 1x di2 retrofit. Have at least 3-4 9mm options for some reason.

How does it compare to the park? It looks beefier. I am trying to figure out if the longer length of the park is an asset or liability.



Also considering a Tekton or proto crowsfoot flare.

 

[HannibalLecter]

^Ironically I just realized I was missing inconveniently an 8mm flare out of the tool collection during my 1x di2 retrofit. Have at least 3-4 9mm options for some reason.

How does it compare to the park? It looks beefier. I am trying to figure out if the longer length of the park is an asset or liability.



Also considering a Tekton or proto crowsfoot flare.

I have a general disdain on Park tools, mostly because people think they are premium (mostly bike mechanics). However i can't speak about this wrench because i don't have it. I consider pedros a far better design and it's not a mile long either. That could be troublesome in some cases.
As for the tekton, its of course a real tool conpany, but I wouldn't buy a 3/8 inch drive for this application, where all is needed is 5-8nm of torque. I bought the pedros for 10€ which was a no brainer imo. Also, you wont find 8mm 1/4 drive flare nut crowfoots, from any brand exept for snapon

 

[Gebirgekind]

^Ironically I just realized I was missing inconveniently an 8mm flare out of the tool collection during my 1x di2 retrofit. Have at least 3-4 9mm options for some reason.

How does it compare to the park? It looks beefier. I am trying to figure out if the longer length of the park is an asset or liability.



Also considering a Tekton or proto crowsfoot flare.

I tried the Tekton and the socket attachment is too close to the wrench end to work on a brake line, the ratchet head gets in the way. You have to use an extension to get on a nut, which seemed silly when there are better options.

 

[Gebirgekind]

Also, you wont find 8mm 1/4 drive flare nut crowfoots, from any brand exept for snapon

Nepros makes one, though I wish it were 6-sided: https://neprostools.com/collections/crowfoot-wrench

 

[HannibalLecter]

You need 1/4 drive for this application
Yeah ive seen the nepros, but as you mentioned, not 6 sided. 12 sided exists also in stahlwille flavour. I bought the pedros and end of story

 

[Odd-job]

Ah didn't realize the pedro's was 1/4 drive. I think that's what I am going to go with.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

^Ironically I just realized I was missing inconveniently an 8mm flare out of the tool collection during my 1x di2 retrofit. Have at least 3-4 9mm options for some reason.

How does it compare to the park? It looks beefier. I am trying to figure out if the longer length of the park is an asset or liability.



Also considering a Tekton or proto crowsfoot flare.

I’d go with just about anything over Park. They make very few tools these days that are not garbage.

Just got all of the various expansion packs for the Enduro bearing system. There bearing tools are by far the best on the market.

A few months ago i ordered their main set along with their bearing punches to go along with their older BB tools I already had.

I had an Abbey press that I modified to work with the Park system before. I’ll still keep those as the Park cups do do something’s better 1% of the time but 99% of the time the Enduro system is far superior.

The Endro split cups are way better for rocker links as they are seldom flat. Since both companies use an 8mm rod they are interchangeable. Except different thread pitches

Enduros blind bearing pullers are really high quality and they make an adapter set for their press system to turn them into pullers so you don’t need to use their slide hammer.

The hub / bb expansion pack also has cups for both center lock and 6 bolt hubs.

Their DT Swiss hub set is far better than any of the other options out there too, but you still need the rest of their system for it to really shine on hubs.

The ratchet tools are impact rated and will fit directly on a ½” impact. Unlike the DTswiss 4 pawl tool also shown. Hopefully Enduro comes out with their own version for that as it’s missing from their system.

Also picked up their head set press. I’m liking the Enduro bearing presses way better than my Abbey (both have thrust bearings but Enduros quick nut system is far better. Enduro also make all of the headset guides for their press

The Park headset press is still far beefier, but the lack of adapters for it to fit all of the headset cup systems makes it more challenging to use.

My only complaint about the Enduro system is the cost. Their tools are stupid expensive, but they are worth it when you’re doing a ton of bearings.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I’d go with just about anything over Park. They make very few tools these days that are not garbage.

Just got all of the various expansion packs for the Enduro bearing system. There bearing tools are by far the best on the market.

A few months ago i ordered their main set along with their bearing punches to go along with their older BB tools I already had.

I had an Abbey press that I modified to work with the Park system before. I’ll still keep those as the Park cups do do something’s better 1% of the time but 99% of the time the Enduro system is far superior.

The Endro split cups are way better for rocker links as they are seldom flat. Since both companies use an 8mm rod they are interchangeable. Except different thread pitches

Enduros blind bearing pullers are really high quality and they make an adapter set for their press system to turn them into pullers so you don’t need to use their slide hammer.

The hub / bb expansion pack also has cups for both center lock and 6 bolt hubs.

Their DT Swiss hub set is far better than any of the other options out there too, but you still need the rest of their system for it to really shine on hubs.

The ratchet tools are impact rated and will fit directly on a ½” impact. Unlike the DTswiss 4 pawl tool also shown. Hopefully Enduro comes out with their own version for that as it’s missing from their system.

Also picked up their head set press. I’m liking the Enduro bearing presses way better than my Abbey (both have thrust bearings but Enduros quick nut system is far better. Enduro also make all of the headset guides for their press

The Park headset press is still far beefier, but the lack of adapters for it to fit all of the headset cup systems makes it more challenging to use.

My only complaint about the Enduro system is the cost. Their tools are stupid expensive, but they are worth it when you’re doing a ton of bearings.

Just no. The torque wrenches are run of the mill chinese ****, although they are calibrated. We have much better alternatives, wera, norbar, etc. Combination wrenches, again complete dogsh*t. T handle wrenches, wera or facom far better. Saws, files, the same. I could go on and on. The specialty tools I agree, are good, and Park tool has a comprehensive catalogue, but only bike mechanics think they are good tools.
You have quite the nice collection there

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Just no. The torque wrenches are run of the mill chinese ****, although they are calibrated. We have much better alternatives, wera, norbar, etc. Combination wrenches, again complete dogsh*t. T handle wrenches, wera or facom far better. Saws, files, the same. I could go on and on. The specialty tools I agree, are good, and Park tool has a comprehensive catalogue, but only bike mechanics think they are good tools.
You have quite the nice collection there

I dont know of any "good" bike mechanics that think their tools are good either, even for the specialty stuff, other companies make better tools.
Best thing I ever did was ditch the Park torque wrenches for Snapon and Wera. I'm not the biggest fan of the Wera ones, but the price is right for the super low ranges that one gets seldomly used. I wish PBswiss would come out with more Hex / Torx sockets. Nothing compares to them and I also won Snapon and Nepros, but their offerings for lengths and drive sizes leaves a lot to be desired.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I dont know of any "good" bike mechanics that think their tools are good either, even for the specialty stuff, other companies make better tools.
Best thing I ever did was ditch the Park torque wrenches for Snapon and Wera. I'm not the biggest fan of the Wera ones, but the price is right for the super low ranges that one gets seldomly used. I wish PBswiss would come out with more Hex / Torx sockets. Nothing compares to them and I also won Snapon and Nepros, but their offerings for lengths and drive sizes leaves a lot to be desired.

Im sorry I misunderstood the first sentence of your post lol. Didn't catch the <<over>>. Weras are ok and how much to spend for a bike torque wrench if someone is always underpaid, as bike mechanics are. My choice is norbar, however I find i need a reverse working torque wrench in 3/8 and norbar has only 1/2 I think, whatever. Id like the pb sockets, but they apparently do not like money and they discontinued them

 

[308guru]

Do you guys actually torque brake line compression nuts? I'm all for doing things the right way but I cinch 'em up with an open end and move on with life.

 

[Odd-job]

Do you guys actually torque brake line compression nuts? I'm all for doing things the right way but I cinch 'em up with an open end and move on with life.

Going forward I am going to be torquing to spec. Having some seepage issues on one of my lines by the caliper because I haven't bought the right tool (yet).

Historically I was a good n tight type of guy, but the excitement of preventable mid ride issues is getting old now.

Also having a variety of torque wrenches helps the motivation. I realized I missed the boat on Tohnici beam type I have been lusting over. Not sure if its the tariffs and/or the exchange rates are impacting pricing.

 

[YesIHaveAHammer]

Do you guys actually torque brake line compression nuts? I'm all for doing things the right way but I cinch 'em up with an open end and move on with life.

Yes.

If I cinched them up it might be ok, but I'd probably undertorque them - inviting potential issues. It's not a job I often do, so I don't have a learnt feel of deforming brass fittings to 8 Nm. Not the kind of thing you can fix up on the trail with most multitools either.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Do you guys actually torque brake line compression nuts? I'm all for doing things the right way but I cinch 'em up with an open end and move on with life.

Usually no. If they are connected to a dura ace lever that is known to break, yes. The same goes for the sram red as well.
For mtb brakes that don't cost 500€ a pop and are all metal, no