Yes. 100% of the time. They dont seal unless you compress the Olive to the specified torque. Too little to too much will cause them too leak. Even if you are not visibly seeing seepage, its often enough to cause lever fade.
I have the EP-1. It works well and is a quality tool. Did I absolutely need it? Of course not. But it puts a better crimp than the electrical connector pliers I used for many years or the crimper on the cable cutter (which *****). If your choice is between those two. Get the crimper, not the needle nose pliers. I wouldn't buy any "generic" tool made by park.Any recommendations for crimping wire end caps?
The Park Tools EP-1 looks pretty good - my only reservation is that I generally perceive Park Tools as overpriced for what you get. Still, $30-$40 Canadian for the right tool isn't insurmountable. I like that you can crimp the caps lengthwise.
NP-6 seems ok too.
Just wondering if I'm overlooking something superior in that same price range.
These would work in some applications but would be tough in the tight spaces. I have these for electrical work but still don't pull them out to crimp ends.The only better would be a crimping plier from Knipex, for electrical use, but I suspect no one wants to fork out 150€. There are copies in aliexpress though. And park has one as well.
You asked and that's the next upgrade for the simple pliers. You can try and see how you liking it. I don't have these unfortunately, don't need them
I'm fine with the Park Tools I've purchased and used. I only buy their bike specific tools and have quite a few. I bought the EP-1 last year. I looked at my email invoice I got it for $24. I'm pretty sure I had a discount from the bike shop vendor, although I don't see it. Looks like it runs $33 now. It's a good quality pliers with a very niche use. So yeah it's going to cost more than some other plier of similar quality. As I said this was a "want" purchase vs a "need" purchase.
. It's easier to use in the other areas as well, but it's not like I'm doing this day in and day out. If I was, it would have more than paid for itself by now.Exactly. Too many times they won’t fit. I also have a set and never use them on the bike.
I'm curious. Where exactly did you find they won't fit?
Dropper post / other remotes. Very seldom use shifter cables for shifting these days.
Ah yes for dropper posts makes sense
Yep, dropper posts and lockout levers/cables. It would work fine on shifter cables down at the derailleur but the EP-1 does a fine job everywhere.
The jagwire is good enough
Cutter <----- I use the one in the link, works great and also works great to push in the barb.
Anyone tried the Klein version? I noticed they're SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper. The 34056 hex crimping pliers are $50 Canadian, the square-crimping version (34055) is a mere $35. These days you can't tell exactly what you're getting from Klein - there's no COO information on the website, so I assume these are Chinese-production. Still, it had me curious - that's not much more than the random-letter-company copies on Amazon.The only better would be a crimping plier from Knipex, for electrical use, but I suspect no one wants to fork out 150€. There are copies in aliexpress though. And park has one as well.
I have a chinese version and a knipex version and both seem to work the same from my view point. I do not use these on bikes though. Work bought the knipex and I bought the chinese for home use. Fit and finish is better on the knipex.Anyone tried the Klein version? I noticed they're SUBSTANTIALLY cheaper. The 34056 hex crimping pliers are $50 Canadian, the square-crimping version (34055) is a mere $35. These days you can't tell exactly what you're getting from Klein - there's no COO information on the website, so I assume these are Chinese-production. Still, it had me curious - that's not much more than the random-letter-company copies on Amazon.
Tyre lever, or 10mm box end wrench - I prefer the latter. They work better than any purpose focused tool I've tried. This is on 4 piston calipers.
I’ve got the park tool. It works fine, but so do whole lot of other things. The one I have is a nicely chromed cast piece, that’s pitted like the surface of the moon. Doesn’t matter to how it works, but cheap looking.
Pedros tire lever or a box end wrench - try to only use plastic on Shimanos, the ceramic pistons aren't difficult to crack. The PP-1.2 works best when the pads are still in and you're just resetting the rotor gap.
uniortools.com
I would buy this. Contrary to others that are just a lever this is an actual press. There were also some made of metal but I cant find them right now
A heads up on the chain checkers in general.semi proud of my 8mm line socket abomination while I wait for the tekton and Pedros I ordered. It works well. Eventually maybe I'll upgrade to the Koken version.
Also upgraded my chain checker to a Park CC-3.2 after I realized the new Shimano 12 speed stuff is only supposed to be run out to .5 stretch.
Made in the USA still:
I do not think that is in general true. I'd suggest switching lubricants, maybe silca synergetic, or how it's called and staying away from anything too oily, like these abominations from muc off. On the road side of things there are people that get 4000kms from a single chain, with immersion waxing
The two prong ones measure on the opposite sides of the rollers. The chain wear occurs in the interface between the roller pins and the rollers (nothing stretches, that's a misconception)
I generally agree, BUT the Shimano chains just keep going albeit in a worn state. T chains break. The inner surfaces look like they have beat with a ball peen hammer.
