The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[MidMoBob]

earlier this year i bought a new wheelset. site was having a blowout, of I guess new old stock components that were higher end at one time. I couldn't resist as I figured that high end clincher rims may be hard to come by in the future. Nothing aside from the spokes/******* and rim tape were current from the manufacturer.

Ultegra 10 speed hubs (cup and cone), DT Swiss box section rims for clinchers, Sapin spokes and ******* 32 and 3cross, and velox rim tape. I believe they built them when I ordered them, but no substitution were allowed. The only thing I would have changed would have been 14/15/14 double butted spokes instead of straight 14, but for the price I wouldn't complain. I'll be able to fix these and my other wheelsets as they are similarly built. Loose bearings and J-bend spokes . . .

As I'm reading this, I realized I don't even know what the alternatives are. Sometime I'll have to look at a new bike and see what they're using now.

My first W2 job, at age 16, was at a local bicycle shop. Each afternoon once school let out, I'd go to the bike shop and head to the basement, where I shared a double Park repair stand with the boss's 14-year-old son. He did our simple tire/tube repairs. My job was to replace trashed rims. This was the late 1970s when low end-bicycles usually had steel rims. Riders would hit curbs or potholes and dent/bend their rims. I don't recall us keeping many (if any) complete wheels in stock. If somebody trashed wheel, we rebuilt it.

On a typical afternoon I'd have two or three wheels to do. I'd remove the tire/tube and freewheel, cut out the old spokes, lace the new rim with new spokes, true/tension the spokes, reinstall the tire/tube and reinstall the wheel on the bike. Typically, it took me about 45 minutes to an hour per wheel. My boss thought I should be faster. When there weren't enough wheels to fill my time, I would assemble new bicycles for inventory.

Anyway, I thought it was an amazing job and I truly enjoyed standing at the truing stand and bringing a rebuilt wheel into form. There's just something Zen about the whole process. I was disappointed when I realized that these days trashed wheels just get replaced with a new wheel assembled in China and there probably aren't any teenagers lacing wheels in bike shop basements.

 

[Meursault74]

As I'm reading this, I realized I don't even know what the alternatives are. Sometime I'll have to look at a new bike and see what they're using now.

My first W2 job, at age 16, was at a local bicycle shop. Each afternoon once school let out, I'd go to the bike shop and head to the basement, where I shared a double Park repair stand with the boss's 14-year-old son. He did our simple tire/tube repairs. My job was to replace trashed rims. This was the late 1970s when low end-bicycles usually had steel rims. Riders would hit curbs or potholes and dent/bend their rims. I don't recall us keeping many (if any) complete wheels in stock. If somebody trashed wheel, we rebuilt it.

On a typical afternoon I'd have two or three wheels to do. I'd remove the tire/tube and freewheel, cut out the old spokes, lace the new rim with new spokes, true/tension the spokes, reinstall the tire/tube and reinstall the wheel on the bike. Typically, it took me about 45 minutes to an hour per wheel. My boss thought I should be faster. When there weren't enough wheels to fill my time, I would assemble new bicycles for inventory.

Anyway, I thought it was an amazing job and I truly enjoyed standing at the truing stand and bringing a rebuilt wheel into form. There's just something Zen about the whole process. I was disappointed when I realized that these days trashed wheels just get replaced with a new wheel assembled in China and there probably aren't any teenagers lacing wheels in bike shop basements.

I'm running 32 hole box section clincher rims with J-bend spokes for the most part. So I should be able to rebuild them. I do have another "factory" wheel that has 24 hole for the front and straight pull spokes. I had a hard time finding the straight pull in the proper length when I broke some spokes.

I had a rim fail at the spoke hole. It was a mavic rim that I had built at Colorodo Cyclist. It was still under warranty. I sent it back to them and they replaced the rim and all the ******* and sent it back to me. So rebuilding can still be done.

My "concern" is the availability of "good" clincher rims in the future. I'm sure they'll always be clincher rims somewhere, but good one, who knows.

I don't have any experience with the tubeless tires, electronic shifting, or disc brakes. I'm aware of them, but none of my bikes have them. I've yet to feel the urge to "upgrade". If I was to want to buy a brand new bike off the floor so to speak, I don't think I'd have a choice though at this point.

 

[Odd-job]

With a cargo bike and Specialized Globe Haul in the family fleet this new Park repair stand is really piquing my interest. Compared to the Unior 1693L and other alternatives this seems semi affordable.

 

[308guru]

Has anyone found thread restorers like the lang's in M5? I am finding myself using my standard tap and dies quite often for clean up work and am not crazy about the amount of material they end up removing.

Why are taps and dies removing material? If the thread was manufactured correctly initially, there's no material to remove.

 

[duneslider]

Why are taps and dies removing material? If the thread was manufactured correctly initially, there's no material to remove.

If the threads are buggered up the tap/die is more likely to cut the buggered up stuff off. Thread restorers should try to push the threads back into alignment and not just cut the ****** off. I haven't used thread restorers enough to know how true that is but that is my understanding of what they are doing.

 

[308guru]

Does anyone know what this is for?



I was reorganizing a some stuff and have a drawer of bicycle tools and this was in it. It’s threaded to fit the crank bolt of a shimano tapered spline crank bolt. I think these were also the same bolt as on an “isis” splined crank.

I’m not sure if I’ve ever even used it as I don’t know what it’s for at this point. It may have been part of a crank puller set. It’s is 20-25 years old at this point whatever it is.

I have one of those as well. I keep toting it around yet have never used it. I would have acquired it in the late 90's when I was working at a shop. I thought I remember it being a Shimano tool. I'll see if mine has a part number on it tonight.

 

[Meursault74]

With a cargo bike and Specialized Globe Haul in the family fleet this new Park repair stand is really piquing my interest. Compared to the Unior 1693L and other alternatives this seems semi affordable.

When he said 100lb bike I was like WTF. I sure can see this being useful with all those heavy e-bikes. I hadn't really thought of this before as I don't have an e-bike.

Me, I have no use for this mechanical or power lift stand. My roadbikes are 20lbs give or take. Steel "frankenbike" is likely 30 lbs. Easy for me to lift up and put on my work stand.

 

[308guru]

I have one of those as well. I keep toting it around yet have never used it. I would have acquired it in the late 90's when I was working at a shop. I thought I remember it being a Shimano tool. I'll see if mine has a part number on it tonight.

Ahhhhh, it's all coming back now; I figured it out.

It's TL-UN96, or 1/2 of it. The tool is used to remove old XTR (M950/M952) crank spiders. The piece of the tool you pictured is used to keep the tool engaged and prevent it from slipping out of the drive notches.

 

[willf650]

Ahhhhh, it's all coming back now; I figured it out.

It's TL-UN96, or 1/2 of it. The tool is used to remove old XTR (M950/M952) crank spiders. The piece of the tool you pictured is used to keep the tool engaged and prevent it from slipping out of the drive notches.

Well that settles it. I’ve definitely never used it then as I only had XT cranks at best. I did buy that bottom bracket tool so it probably came as a kit.

I still think the 3 piece MTB cranks and the external bottom brackets are one of the best inventions in mountain biking. Very little creaking and wallowed out cranks.

 

[Odd-job]

If the threads are buggered up the tap/die is more likely to cut the buggered up stuff off. Thread restorers should try to push the threads back into alignment and not just cut the ****** off. I haven't used thread restorers enough to know how true that is but that is my understanding of what they are doing.

^This. Rather not remove material if I can help it. In auto applications thread restorers sometimes really save the day without resolving to more drastic measures like helicoils, etc. Probably even more crucial in bicycle applications only because things tend to be installed and reinstalled more frequently.

 

[Odd-job]

When he said 100lb bike I was like WTF. I sure can see this being useful with all those heavy e-bikes. I hadn't really thought of this before as I don't have an e-bike.

Me, I have no use for this mechanical or power lift stand. My roadbikes are 20lbs give or take. Steel "frankenbike" is likely 30 lbs. Easy for me to lift up and put on my work stand.

I was in the same boat with road, gravel and mountain bikes all below 30 lbs. Now trying to wrestle an e bike or cargo bike on a traditional repair stand is like a two person job. I thought I was smart using a harbor freight lift cart, but even that gets old and working on the ground ***** when you aren't young anymore.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

^This. Rather not remove material if I can help it. In auto applications thread restorers sometimes really save the day without resolving to more drastic measures like helicoils, etc. Probably even more crucial in bicycle applications only because things tend to be installed and reinstalled more frequently.

If I don’t have a thread chaser in the size I need I prefer to use thread forming taps. They shape the metal instead of cutting so are great for restoring threads.

 

[Odd-job]

If I don’t have a thread chaser in the size I need I prefer to use thread forming taps. They shape the metal instead of cutting so are great for restoring threads.

yea a while back I bought a roll form tap (there's a bunch of different names these go by) in m5 based on recommendations by you guys. Need to look into sourcing one for pedals/cranks - 9/16" x 20 TPI, but am pretty sure they don't exist outside of the Park Tool TAP-6.

 

[duneslider]

yea a while back I bought a roll form tap (there's a bunch of different names these go by) in m5 based on recommendations by you guys. Need to look into sourcing one for pedals/cranks - 9/16" x 20 TPI, but am pretty sure they don't exist outside of the Park Tool TAP-6.

I am sure a right hand is no big deal to find, the left hand I am sure is more difficult.

 

[paslemeilleur]

 

[paslemeilleur]

 

[paslemeilleur]

 

[Odd-job]

Unfortunately SRAM T chains need replacing at ridiculously short intervals. After this race season wraps up, my son will be switching to Shimano. Transmission imo is a solution in search of a problem.

Not sure if you made the switch yet, but have gotten some more experience with Shimano 12 speed drivetrain wear. Maybe SRAM isn't so bad afterall...

Blew through a Shimano XT chain on my newish 1x gravel setup, was really surprised how far past it went by .5 wear using both a Park CC-3 and CC-4 chain checker. Chain was getting noisy on the 51t with less than 1000 miles. Trying to figure out the contributing factors on this as it was used in mostly dry conditions, but semi suspect the high amount of chain tension combined with a lot of slow gear grinding up steep hills had something to do with the chain wear.

The XTR chain on my 2x road bike is still going strong with no noticeable chain stretch despite a lot of wet weather riding. For some reason it did eat up a set of ultegra chain rings (less than 5k miles) which started having shift and retention issues without the traditional shark fin teeth profile.

 

[old-air-performance]

Anybody got experience with the Tektro Bleeding pump?

 

[knobby]

Not sure if you made the switch yet, but have gotten some more experience with Shimano 12 speed drivetrain wear. Maybe SRAM isn't so bad afterall...

Blew through a Shimano XT chain on my newish 1x gravel setup, was really surprised how far past it went by .5 wear using both a Park CC-3 and CC-4 chain checker. Chain was getting noisy on the 51t with less than 1000 miles. Trying to figure out the contributing factors on this as it was used in mostly dry conditions, but semi suspect the high amount of chain tension combined with a lot of slow gear grinding up steep hills had something to do with the chain wear.

The XTR chain on my 2x road bike is still going strong with no noticeable chain stretch despite a lot of wet weather riding. For some reason it did eat up a set of ultegra chain rings (less than 5k miles) which started having shift and retention issues without the traditional shark fin teeth profile.

I put a few miles on my bike and out of annoyance about service like of components have gone backwards to 1x10 with a ZEE RDR and Saint shifter combo. Not often do i find myself unable to find a appropriate gear during a ride.
Less fussy of adjustment too.
FWIW the zee rdr can be had with two different bushings one for close range cassettes another for wider range (larger)cassettes.

 

[ericm]

I have been pretty happy with SRAM chain life on my 1x mtb, and before that on my 2x11 road race bike that saw a lot of miles. Long ago SRAM bought Sidisport (through Sachs). Those were the chains I ran in the late '80s.

 

[duneslider]

Let's just be clear that chains aren't stretching, they are wearing. Most wear is taking place in the roller/bushing interface. Wear is a result of use and lack of lubrication. I have a whole **** ton of shimano chains in use right now and most have been in use for years at this point and none have worn out. My son is really hard on his chains and they are still measuring fine. I know it isn't for everyone but we wax our chains and we get thousands of miles on a chain on our mountain bikes before they wear out. My daughter was clocking 3000+ miles a year and in 3 years hasn't worn out a chain (we rotate 3 chains, so roughly 1000miles a year per chain). My observation is that most people don't clean their chains enough (well enough, or often enough) and putting lube on a dirty chain just makes it a dirtier chain. Like would you mix sand with your engine oil and then put it in the engine?

The XT chains last just as long as the XTR from my experience, frankly the cheaper shimano chains seem fine too but I only have a couple of those. XTR is lighter than the XT (obviously).

Sram GX chains last a long time but are heavy and slow. The nicer sram chains are a ripoff price wise, lighter but just as slow as gx it seems and don't seem to last as long.

I have been super happy with YBN chains, especially on sram bikes. I am still testing ybn chains on my shimano bike, everything is new at the moment, so not a lot to comment, yet.

I am also experimenting with using a wax drip lube between immersive waxing to see what I think. This is something I just haven't done in the past but I am a little skeptical for mountain bikes since the chains tend to get dustier than road bikes. I suspect it will just lead to accelerated wear.

 

[duneslider]

Stripped hex bolts. What are you all using when you encounter stripped hex bolts. My kids are getting older and starting to do more of their bike stuff and despite my attempts to teach them how to tighten and loosen bolts properly I am encountering stripped bolts, most of these are the small 4-5mm found on bar clamps or seat posts. What extractors are you finding work best?

 

[Meursault74]

Stripped hex bolts. What are you all using when you encounter stripped hex bolts. My kids are getting older and starting to do more of their bike stuff and despite my attempts to teach them how to tighten and loosen bolts properly I am encountering stripped bolts, most of these are the small 4-5mm found on bar clamps or seat posts. What extractors are you finding work best?

I have this. I bought it to have as I see the heads on some aren't looking that good any more.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTTW38791?srsltid=AfmBOoocmrK6-jwnQKjDuT7BkNx__tLaekGKQ5r0KUfFBKNwaNnhJpzf

Only used it once so far. It was on the 2 or 2.5 mm bolt the holds the brake shoe on a Shimano road caliper. It worked

 

[Odd-job]

Let's just be clear that chains aren't stretching, they are wearing. Most wear is taking place in the roller/bushing interface. Wear is a result of use and lack of lubrication. I have a whole **** ton of shimano chains in use right now and most have been in use for years at this point and none have worn out. My son is really hard on his chains and they are still measuring fine. I know it isn't for everyone but we wax our chains and we get thousands of miles on a chain on our mountain bikes before they wear out. My daughter was clocking 3000+ miles a year and in 3 years hasn't worn out a chain (we rotate 3 chains, so roughly 1000miles a year per chain). My observation is that most people don't clean their chains enough (well enough, or often enough) and putting lube on a dirty chain just makes it a dirtier chain. Like would you mix sand with your engine oil and then put it in the engine?

The XT chains last just as long as the XTR from my experience, frankly the cheaper shimano chains seem fine too but I only have a couple of those. XTR is lighter than the XT (obviously).

Sram GX chains last a long time but are heavy and slow. The nicer sram chains are a ripoff price wise, lighter but just as slow as gx it seems and don't seem to last as long.

I have been super happy with YBN chains, especially on sram bikes. I am still testing ybn chains on my shimano bike, everything is new at the moment, so not a lot to comment, yet.

I am also experimenting with using a wax drip lube between immersive waxing to see what I think. This is something I just haven't done in the past but I am a little skeptical for mountain bikes since the chains tend to get dustier than road bikes. I suspect it will just lead to accelerated wear.

I am a chain waxer as well, although probably use Squirt more so than immersive waxing due to ease. Am pretty sure immersive waxing with an ultrasonic boil probably gets the chain cleaner vs the microfibre wipe down suggested with water based wax lubes.

Pretty sure before 12 speed all Shimano chains were relatively the same in terms of wear. XTR 12 speed has (perhaps a newer?) Sil-tec treatment that seems to materially enhance durability. I have a sample size of one that supports this, but there are also multiple internet sources that corroborate this. I ended up stockpiling a few of XT chains when I went overseas and am wishing I bought XTR chains instead. At the rate the gravel bike eats them I probably have less than a year's supply.

From the Shimano website:

Stripped hex bolts. What are you all using when you encounter stripped hex bolts. My kids are getting older and starting to do more of their bike stuff and despite my attempts to teach them how to tighten and loosen bolts properly I am encountering stripped bolts, most of these are the small 4-5mm found on bar clamps or seat posts. What extractors are you finding work best?

Before going to a spiral extractor I usually try an RBRT. With halfway decent access I usually go for screw extracting pliers like Vampliers/Engineers/Knipex twin grips.

 

[duneslider]

I am a chain waxer as well, although probably use Squirt more so than immersive waxing due to ease. Am pretty sure immersive waxing with an ultrasonic boil probably gets the chain cleaner vs the microfibre wipe down suggested with water based wax lubes.

Pretty sure before 12 speed all Shimano chains were relatively the same in terms of wear. XTR 12 speed has (perhaps a newer?) Sil-tec treatment that seems to materially enhance durability. I have a sample size of one that supports this, but there are also multiple internet sources that corroborate this. I ended up stockpiling a few of XT chains when I went overseas and am wishing I bought XTR chains instead. At the rate the gravel bike eats them I probably have less than a year's supply.

From the Shimano website:





Before going to a spiral extractor I usually try an RBRT. With halfway decent access I usually go for screw extracting pliers like Vampliers/Engineers/Knipex twin grips.

I can't say I have enough data to say whether I feel the xtr chains last longer. We mostly just use those as race chains, so they have much fewer miles on them than the others. I don't know that I would say I can tell any difference with the xtr vs non-xtr chain on the bike. Maybe that's because the wax is already so slick, we also usually only run the chains long enough to race and then take it off so I can't even comment on the longevity between cleaning/waxing. However, I don't race and the longevity between waxing of the GX chain and YBN chain is quite significant. I can go a lot longer on a YBN chain than a GX chain between waxing probably almost double. So, I suspect the xtr could be similar in that regard.

I don't think Squirt is terrible but if you don't start with a degreased chain it won't work right. The wax won't stick to anything that has grease on it, so you really need to prep the chain like you would for immersive waxing. I've wanted to experiment with a chain that I prep and wax but then after that only use a drip chain wax and see how it compares. I suspect it will work pretty well. I moved to waxing chains after using Smoove and being really happy with how well it worked for our dusty conditions.

 

[shibertus]

On my road bike the XTR/Dura-Ace chains with the SILTEC coating last thousands of miles longer than Ultegra chains. This was true with oil based lube but even more so after switching to drip wax. Although I've gone back to oil because drip wax was too noisy and didn't last as long between applications.

 

[duneslider]

On my road bike the XTR/Dura-Ace chains with the SILTEC coating last thousands of miles longer than Ultegra chains. This was true with oil based lube but even more so after switching to drip wax. Although I've gone back to oil because drip wax was too noisy and didn't last as long between applications.

Curious but did you properly degrease before using drip wax, and which drip wax did you use? My experience has been exactly opposite, I went to drip wax because we couldn't make it through a race without a chain sounding like **** before the race was over. If you put drip wax on a greasy chain the wax won't stick and will all fall off in a very short time. Cleaning with typical bike degreaser and water in the chain cleaner won't get the chain clean enough for wax to stick. It needs a much better initial cleaning for it to work properly.

The one place the oil based lubes are a little better is in really wet conditions, the oil just sheds water better. We don't have do wet conditions where I am...

 

[shibertus]

Curious but did you properly degrease before using drip wax, and which drip wax did you use?

The lube was Silca Super Secret. Brand new Dura Ace chains were degreased using solvents followed by denatured alcohol. I followed Silca's instructions exactly and even discussed in person with Silca's owner, Josh Poertner, at the Steamboat gravel race. The lube DID perform well and made my chains last longer, but each application would only last around 80-100 road miles before the chain started getting really noisy, and even when freshly applied it was never as quiet running as an oil lube. The wax also performed poorly in rain and winter riding. Josh confirmed all of this was normal and expected.

I switched back to oil (trying out Silca Synergetic). I will miss the cleanliness of wax and expect my chains will need replacing slightly more frequently. To me it is worth the trade off for quieter running and more time between applications.

 

[duneslider]

The lube was Silca Super Secret. Brand new Dura Ace chains were degreased using solvents followed by denatured alcohol. I followed Silca's instructions exactly and even discussed in person with Silca's owner, Josh Poertner, at the Steamboat gravel race. The lube DID perform well and made my chains last longer, but each application would only last around 80-100 road miles before the chain started getting really noisy, and even when freshly applied it was never as quiet running as an oil lube. The wax also performed poorly in rain and winter riding. Josh confirmed all of this was normal and expected.

I switched back to oil (trying out Silca Synergetic). I will miss the cleanliness of wax and expect my chains will need replacing slightly more frequently. To me it is worth the trade off for quieter running and more time between applications.

I haven't used Silca at all and I question some of their products/methods but 80-100 seems really low on a road bike in dry conditions, I wouldn't be happy with that either. I wouldn't wax if I reguarly rode in rain, wax has been fine on my fat bike in the snow but those are shortish rides and it technically doesn't get wet cause it's too cold for anything to not be frozen.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Stripped hex bolts. What are you all using when you encounter stripped hex bolts. My kids are getting older and starting to do more of their bike stuff and despite my attempts to teach them how to tighten and loosen bolts properly I am encountering stripped bolts, most of these are the small 4-5mm found on bar clamps or seat posts. What extractors are you finding work best?

I see these a lot on customer bikes. Most of the time my PBSwiss or Wera Hext tools can grab enough of what's left to remove them normally, when that doesn't work I grab my Proto branded RBRT hex sockets and if that fails I grab my Engineer pliers designed for removing stuck bolts / screws. 99% of the time hex heads strip due to poor engagment with the screw. Good quality hex tools such as PBSwiss and Wera make a huge difference. Might try getting a set for the kids.

As for chain wax, around here on the MTB's it's complete garbage. Ive tried samples from multiple brands and will never do wax again here in the PNW.

 

[JradM]

Stripped hex bolts. What are you all using when you encounter stripped hex bolts. My kids are getting older and starting to do more of their bike stuff and despite my attempts to teach them how to tighten and loosen bolts properly I am encountering stripped bolts, most of these are the small 4-5mm found on bar clamps or seat posts. What extractors are you finding work best?

Mac, Proto, Grip Edge RBRT is about as good as it gets, but SBD also has 1/2 - RBRT tech in Dewalt, Craftsman and Stanley versions for like, 1/10th the cost.



I also have the Astro damaged hex bolt extractor T-handle set.




Alternatevely, without any "special" tools, I will sometimes just tap a torx bit into the damaged cap head. Or add a little valve grinding compound for more grip. If none of those worked, I'd be tempted to get out the metal glue gun.

 

[Odd-job]

YBN chain

I think I need to try a YBN on Shimano even though Shimano stuff tends to like Shimano stuff. Hopefully its just as quiet. Sounds like the SLA1210 would be the one to go with?

don't start with a degreased chain it won't work right

Definitely needs to be soaked in solvent prior to immersion or drip wax. I use a jar of old gas. Then dry. Then ultrasonic clean.

but SBD also has 1/2 - RBRT tech in Dewalt, Craftsman and Stanley versions for like, 1/10th the cost.

I think RBRT is worth the premium when it comes to stuck fasteners. The times it has saved me (usually from my idiot self) I have never thought about wishing I had bought the cheaper alternatives.

 

[duneslider]

I think I need to try a YBN on Shimano even though Shimano stuff tends to like Shimano stuff. Hopefully its just as quiet. Sounds like the SLA1210 would be the one to go with?

The sla1210 is what I use, make sure you buy it from somewhere reputable. There seem to be a lot of them that I question if they are real or not...

Also, the ybn quick links can be reused up to 5 times but I generally find they are good a bit longer than 5 times. The plate profiles on the ybn seem pretty good but may not be as long as the shimano. It may not shift under load as well as shimano but I bet it is plenty quiet (I still don't shift under load, old habits are hard to break I guess). Winter just hit me, so I don't be on the bike for a bit now, should have tried it last week before winter decided to show up.

 

[JradM]

I think RBRT is worth the premium when it comes to stuck fasteners. The times it has saved me (usually from my idiot self) I have never thought about wishing I had bought the cheaper alternatives.

I thought of another one! Should have come to my mind first honestly - I literally just bought it for myself after watching the last TTC video.

Wera Hex-plus has a sort of concave surface and are very well-built. Not exactly an "extractor", but TTC's video showed impressive results.

 

[Odd-job]

I thought of another one! Should have come to my mind first honestly - I literally just bought it for myself after watching the last TTC video.

Wera Hex-plus has a sort of concave surface and are very well-built. Not exactly an "extractor", but TTC's video showed impressive results.

The hex-plus is good stuff. Probably 2nd only to RBRT, but RBRT has more bite when you really need it. It's gotten stuff out that hex plus was just rounding further.

 

[duneslider]

The hex-plus is good stuff. Probably 2nd only to RBRT, but RBRT has more bite when you really need it. It's gotten stuff out that hex plus was just rounding further.

Looks like I need some Hex-plus and RBRT in my tool box!

 

[Odd-job]

Looks like I need some Hex-plus and RBRT in my tool box!

If getting into RBRT - would get individual bits in the sizes needed from MAC or Grip Edge and load them into bit holders if doing it all over again.

77-PC. R.B.R.T™ Bit Set

Designed to remove damaged, destroyed or rusted fasteners .Made from high grade, impact-rated steel .Design to be used with a ratchet or a wrench depending on the accessibility .Unique, bi-directional design allows for both removal and re-insertion of fasteners

www.mactools.com

All Multi-Bit Sets

GripEdge Tools have a unique Rounding Prevention Technology (RPT) that delivers superior torque on both new and damaged fasteners. GripEdge Tools can grip and remove stripped Torx/Star tools without additional tools. GripEdge's Socket Extractors can remove stubborn rounded nuts and bolts.

www.gripedgetools.com

 

[duneslider]

If getting into RBRT - would get individual bits in the sizes needed from MAC or Grip Edge and load them into bit holders if doing it all over again.

77-PC. R.B.R.T™ Bit Set

Designed to remove damaged, destroyed or rusted fasteners .Made from high grade, impact-rated steel .Design to be used with a ratchet or a wrench depending on the accessibility .Unique, bi-directional design allows for both removal and re-insertion of fasteners

www.mactools.com

All Multi-Bit Sets

GripEdge Tools have a unique Rounding Prevention Technology (RPT) that delivers superior torque on both new and damaged fasteners. GripEdge Tools can grip and remove stripped Torx/Star tools without additional tools. GripEdge's Socket Extractors can remove stubborn rounded nuts and bolts.

www.gripedgetools.com

That's a fantastic idea! I really only need a few select sizes, not a huge set!
Which ones do you feel are better? Gripedge or mac?

 

[Odd-job]

Gripedge or mac?

Unless you have a Mac truck or have other stuff to order from Mac I would go with Gripedge and 20% and not get ripped off on shipping. Word is Gripedge has some sort of licensing agreement with Stanley Black and Decker for the RBRT IP, but the large bit sets are almost identical to extent I think they have the same Taiwanese OEM: