The Bicycle (Specialty) Tools Thread

[ericm]

What's the difference between RBRT and RPT? A search did not find anything useful.

It looks like RBRT's twisted design would tend to cam out when tightening. Can RPT tighten? Can those replace hex socket sets for regular use?

 

[ChevyEFI]

What's the difference between RBRT and RPT? A search did not find anything useful.

It looks like RBRT's twisted design would tend to cam out when tightening. Can RPT tighten? Can those replace hex socket sets for regular use?

Twisted version is available from Ingersoll Rand and others.

Here's RPT from Grip Edge and RBRT from Mac.

 

[Odd-job]

^ pretty sure the difference is only branding.

Following link - cites they white label for Mac:

About GripEdge Tools

The Grip Edge Story Began in 2015 with The Goal to Develop Class Leading Fastener Anti-Slip and Extraction Tools and In 2017 Our Breakthrough Revolutionary RPT Technology Was Born

www.gripedgetools.com

Would note this just applies to bits and extractors. Mac wrenches with rbrt am pretty sure is Facom/SBD derived design.

 

[ericm]

When I searched for RBRT I found a lot like these:

But looking more I see that's not actually RBRT, and those are straight. Never mind, my question was ignorant.
I'll be getting some variety of these though, having needed them at times.

 

[duneslider]

I think I need to try a YBN on Shimano

So, I was cleaning my bike after a trip last week and I noticed the chain on my bike WAS a YBN, this bike is a deore cassette with an XT derailleur and slx shifter. It is all brand new and the whole weekend I was constantly shocked by how smooth it was and how well it was shifting. My personal bikes have been SRAM for the last 6 years and I have not really ridden anything more than a mile or two with shimano 12spd, so maybe my opinions are a little skewed BUT I have never ridden a sram, including high end transmission, that shifted as smooth and nice as this. I guess the next ride I will put the shimano chain on and see if I feel the same way.

As a note, I can tell a difference between a sram chain and a ybn chain on sram as well but its not a massive difference but it is subtly smoother and lasts longer before needing waxing again.

 

[Odd-job]

So, I was cleaning my bike after a trip last week and I noticed the chain on my bike WAS a YBN, this bike is a deore cassette with an XT derailleur and slx shifter. It is all brand new and the whole weekend I was constantly shocked by how smooth it was and how well it was shifting. My personal bikes have been SRAM for the last 6 years and I have not really ridden anything more than a mile or two with shimano 12spd, so maybe my opinions are a little skewed BUT I have never ridden a sram, including high end transmission, that shifted as smooth and nice as this. I guess the next ride I will put the shimano chain on and see if I feel the same way.

As a note, I can tell a difference between a sram chain and a ybn chain on sram as well but its not a massive difference but it is subtly smoother and lasts longer before needing waxing again.

Great to hear the feedback. You have me sold on giving YBN a shot. Am just waiting for Biketiresdirect to have a 20% or 25% coupon come around again (meanwhile prices will probably increase because of tariffs). I am trying to say no to the "mid tier" SL12 chain just being $30 right now as the special coatings (SLA 1210, XTR) really seem to be worth it these days in terms of longevity.

 

[duneslider]

Great to hear the feedback. You have me sold on giving YBN a shot. Am just waiting for Biketiresdirect to have a 20% or 25% coupon come around again (meanwhile prices will probably increase because of tariffs). I am trying to say no to the "mid tier" SL12 chain just being $30 right now as the special coatings (SLA 1210, XTR) really seem to be worth it these days in terms of longevity.

I can't speak to the SL12 but the SLA1210's have been fantastic chains for me. I usually find them for way cheaper than the higher end sram chains and usually cheaper than the XTR's.

$30 for the SL12 is pretty cheap, makes me want to try one just to see what it's like...

 

[308guru]

The only chain I run now with 12sp SRAM MTB (non-T) is X01. The hard chrome chains last so much longer than GX and shifting improvement / quietness is (very) noticeable. Worth every penny.

Before the season starts my Shimano XT is getting an X01 chain to see how that goes as well.

 

[fishwatcher]

I use the old style 3 piece brass silca presta adapter every day. The rubber washer wears over time but replacements were still available a couple of years ago by another vendor. I have one sitting sealed in a plastic bag for replacement when needed. Yes i am in the biz- sometimes i wonder why!!!

@CarBikeGuy70 I know this is an old post, but I’m hoping you or somebody else can help me learn about a new to me vintage Silca Pista I bought.

Is the three piece style head you mentioned a reversible head (for presta and Schraeder)? The one I am wondering about has 4 pieces, including a nozzle (with o-ring) which detaches.

[editted] I only have one black gasket.. so need to get a second, if I’m going to use it.

What do you think of the dedicated presta bell shaped head vs the reversible style?

I assume the presta bell shaped one is more reliable since the reversible has more parts to it.

I just got this pump with the extra head plus a spare leather Gasket for $40.

It works as is with the bell shaped presta-only head with an old black gasket. But I wonder if it’s worth spending more money on new gaskets for the reversible head for more functionality. I could refresh it further with a new, longer hose too!

I have other pumps that work just fine. But.. this is GJ.. so.. you know.. fix old stuff, have redundant parts..and all that jazz. Thanks!

 

[duneslider]

The Park Tool tire levers have been serving me well for several years now, so I ordered an extra set.
I also bought a new crank puller, the old one broke.
I had replaced it back then with a handle-less Cyclus model, it’s very good quality, but I find a version with a handle more convenient.
I also picked up a syringe for tubeless sealant and a new tire inflator gun, which I don’t have any experience with yet.
And finally, a Shimano derailleur hanger alignment tool—by far the best one I’ve ever come across.
If only all professional bike tools were made to this level of quality.

I need to get a better hanger alignment tool, I feel like the one I have has more play in it than I think it should...
I hear the Abbey HAG is good too, have you used that and still feel the shimano is better? From what I see the TL-RD-11 is double the cost of the Abbey, is it that much better?

I did just buy replacement gaskets and straws for my TSI-1, I was glad I looked into it and found PT sells those parts, I was about to toss it. I had previously bought a "chinese" version of the injector and when the straw and gasket were bad I had to toss it due to no available parts.

 

[duneslider]

Any DT-swiss experts in here?
I've been running into some issues with DT-swiss hubs and not sure what to think. Up until recently I have liked DT-swiss more than anything else I have used.

I have had a number of hubs now that after a clean and lube are stiff enough to keep the pedals turning when coasting. Thinking the issue is the little spacer sleeve I have replaced that and in most of the hubs that solved the problem but in one hub that is less than a year old and maybe only has 500-750 miles is still doing it, not as bad as it was but still doing it. I could buy another sleeve and try again but I'm wondering if it's something else. Bearings all feel good, with how new it is I don't think bearings would be the issue and everything I can touch with my finger feels smooth nad everything spins nice before I put the wheel on the bike.

How long do star ratchets last for you all? My son's bike is starting to skip in the first 3 gears when he is standing and cranking. I gave it a go and sure enough, when you start to crank hard it seems to slip, then catch and hold. Ratchets look fine, I couldn't see any damage or wear. I have a spare hub I am going to try and pull those ratchets out and see if they work fine. I am using just a very light coating of the dt-swiss special grease, so I don't believe I have put too much on or that the grease is the cause. This hub might have 1500-2000 hard enduro miles on it so maybe that is the life? I just have other dt-swiss hubs that have 3-4-5000 miles and seem totally fine.

 

[HannibalLecter]

Any DT-swiss experts in here?
I've been running into some issues with DT-swiss hubs and not sure what to think. Up until recently I have liked DT-swiss more than anything else I have used.

I have had a number of hubs now that after a clean and lube are stiff enough to keep the pedals turning when coasting. Thinking the issue is the little spacer sleeve I have replaced that and in most of the hubs that solved the problem but in one hub that is less than a year old and maybe only has 500-750 miles is still doing it, not as bad as it was but still doing it. I could buy another sleeve and try again but I'm wondering if it's something else. Bearings all feel good, with how new it is I don't think bearings would be the issue and everything I can touch with my finger feels smooth nad everything spins nice before I put the wheel on the bike.

How long do star ratchets last for you all? My son's bike is starting to skip in the first 3 gears when he is standing and cranking. I gave it a go and sure enough, when you start to crank hard it seems to slip, then catch and hold. Ratchets look fine, I couldn't see any damage or wear. I have a spare hub I am going to try and pull those ratchets out and see if they work fine. I am using just a very light coating of the dt-swiss special grease, so I don't believe I have put too much on or that the grease is the cause. This hub might have 1500-2000 hard enduro miles on it so maybe that is the life? I just have other dt-swiss hubs that have 3-4-5000 miles and seem totally fine.

Yes, a sad truth about dt swiss hubs is the freehub backdrag. Remove all the grease from the ratchet and I mean as much as you can.
Also I had some 370 hubs which we had to warranty for that issue. But it even happens to my 240 exp ones.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I need to get a better hanger alignment tool, I feel like the one I have has more play in it than I think it should...
I hear the Abbey HAG is good too, have you used that and still feel the shimano is better? From what I see the TL-RD-11 is double the cost of the Abbey, is it that much better?

I did just buy replacement gaskets and straws for my TSI-1, I was glad I looked into it and found PT sells those parts, I was about to toss it. I had previously bought a "chinese" version of the injector and when the straw and gasket were bad I had to toss it due to no available parts.

For the alignment tool I would to with the Unior hanger genie

 

[duneslider]

For the alignment tool I would to with the Unior hanger genie

Those aren't terribly expensive and they do look pretty nice.

 

[duneslider]

Yes, a sad truth about dt swiss hubs is the freehub backdrag. Remove all the grease from the ratchet and I mean as much as you can.
Also I had some 370 hubs which we had to warranty for that issue. But it even happens to my 240 exp ones.

I will give that a go and see if it helps.

I have not been too impressed with the 370's with the pawls, and converting them hasn't been as simple as the videos make it seem...

 

[HannibalLecter]

I will give that a go and see if it helps.

I have not been too impressed with the 370's with the pawls, and converting them hasn't been as simple as the videos make it seem...

I think they were the newer ones, with ratchets, brand new wheels. Off the wheel the preload ok, with the wheel on the bike binding. This was definitely wrong tolerances.
My dt 240 without grease are ok, after 6k kms. However could be better

 

[Gebirgekind]

I need to get a better hanger alignment tool, I feel like the one I have has more play in it than I think it should...
I hear the Abbey HAG is good too, have you used that and still feel the shimano is better? From what I see the TL-RD-11 is double the cost of the Abbey, is it that much better?

I have the Abbey at home and we use the new generation Park Tool (DAG-3) at the shop. The Abbey is extremely well made and works great, but honestly I find the Park gauge easier and less fiddly to use. For the price I wouldn't think the Shimano is worth it, the Park is IMHO a great bang for your buck. Abbey's is great for it's compact size and tight tolerance, the new Park is absolutely sufficient for home and pro use.

 

[Gebirgekind]

Any DT-swiss experts in here?
I've been running into some issues with DT-swiss hubs and not sure what to think. Up until recently I have liked DT-swiss more than anything else I have used.

I have had a number of hubs now that after a clean and lube are stiff enough to keep the pedals turning when coasting. Thinking the issue is the little spacer sleeve I have replaced that and in most of the hubs that solved the problem but in one hub that is less than a year old and maybe only has 500-750 miles is still doing it, not as bad as it was but still doing it. I could buy another sleeve and try again but I'm wondering if it's something else. Bearings all feel good, with how new it is I don't think bearings would be the issue and everything I can touch with my finger feels smooth nad everything spins nice before I put the wheel on the bike.

How long do star ratchets last for you all? My son's bike is starting to skip in the first 3 gears when he is standing and cranking. I gave it a go and sure enough, when you start to crank hard it seems to slip, then catch and hold. Ratchets look fine, I couldn't see any damage or wear. I have a spare hub I am going to try and pull those ratchets out and see if they work fine. I am using just a very light coating of the dt-swiss special grease, so I don't believe I have put too much on or that the grease is the cause. This hub might have 1500-2000 hard enduro miles on it so maybe that is the life? I just have other dt-swiss hubs that have 3-4-5000 miles and seem totally fine.

DT Swiss quality has unfortunately declined in recent years as they have spread their manufacturing more broadly across the globe. For a long time they were consistently reliable, but we've experienced more problems the last couple years. The smaller tooth count star ratchets are more rugged (18-tooth, etc.) if you need durability, but you're trading off pedaling quality of course.

Are you sure it's the ratchet skipping and not the chain? Those first three cogs (assuming you mean smallest three) wear faster because of the much smaller radius and lower tooth count, a worn cassette is usually the first culprit in skipping, then the chain. If it is indeed the star ratchet with that few miles you're probably good for a hub warranty, though they can skip with too much or the wrong kind of grease.

 

[duneslider]

I have the Abbey at home and we use the new generation Park Tool (DAG-3) at the shop. The Abbey is extremely well made and works great, but honestly I find the Park gauge easier and less fiddly to use. For the price I wouldn't think the Shimano is worth it, the Park is IMHO a great bang for your buck. Abbey's is great for it's compact size and tight tolerance, the new Park is absolutely sufficient for home and pro use.

The one I have is like the older PT, I didn't realize they had a newer version. Maybe I will give it a go.

 

[duneslider]

DT Swiss quality has unfortunately declined in recent years as they have spread their manufacturing more broadly across the globe. For a long time they were consistently reliable, but we've experienced more problems the last couple years. The smaller tooth count star ratchets are more rugged (18-tooth, etc.) if you need durability, but you're trading off pedaling quality of course.

Are you sure it's the ratchet skipping and not the chain? Those first three cogs (assuming you mean smallest three) wear faster because of the much smaller radius and lower tooth count, a worn cassette is usually the first culprit in skipping, then the chain. If it is indeed the star ratchet with that few miles you're probably good for a hub warranty, though they can skip with too much or the wrong kind of grease.

I actually swapped out the ratchet to an 18 tooth I had in another spare hub. I probably need to look at the cassette a little closer, the bike is only a year old, so I wasn't really thinking that was a possibility yet. The cassette might have a couple thousand miles on it, I know I have other bikes with shimano xt cassettes with well over 2000 miles but this kid isn't easy on stuff.

 

[Snaparxon]

Eldi West Germany bicycle tool kit I found at a yard sale, I bought it for the super thin wrenches. They work well on the jam nuts on electrical switches, among other small jam nuts that are super thin. The thin wrenches have A D I or something like that stamped on them. I have some just like them but they say made in USA and Kingsbridge or something like that.

 

[Meursault74]

Eldi West Germany bicycle tool kit I found at a yard sale, I bought it for the super thin wrenches. They work well on the jam nuts on electrical switches, among other small jam nuts that are super thin. The thin wrenches have A D I or something like that stamped on them. I have some just like them but they say made in USA and Kingsbridge or something like that.

Now I'm going to get philosophical. If those thin wrenches aren't used on hub cones, are they still cone wrenches?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I’ve been busy with my shop build out so haven’t been following this thread that closely lately. I did pick up a new Lenzyne click pump and so far I’m really liking the click valves. We will see how they do long term.


This is the most sophisticated bike tool I’ve bought to date. It’s a LABA7 modular suspension bleeder. Idea is a separate tank for each oil so no cross contamination and it should speed up my suspension service as I won’t be constantly switching oils. Only problem is I got the last 2 tanks on NA and I need at least 4-5 more.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I’ve been busy with my shop build out so haven’t been following this thread that closely lately. I did pick up a new Lenzyne click pump and so far I’m really liking the click valves. We will see how they do long term.


This is the most sophisticated bike tool I’ve bought to date. It’s a LABA7 modular suspension bleeder. Idea is a separate tank for each oil so no cross contamination and it should speed up my suspension service as I won’t be constantly switching oils. Only problem is I got the last 2 tanks on NA and I need at least 4-5 more.

Wow serious investment. As for the clik valves, once you try you never wanna go back. Only hassle is when you have to change a tube you have to unscrew and rescrew the valve core

 

[Pexto]

The thin wrenches have A D I or something like that stamped on them. I have some just like them but they say made in USA and Kingsbridge or something like that.

I have some of those same cone wrenches, purchased 35 or 40 years ago. I'm not sure if they're stamped A I D or A T D. If I remember correctly the A stands for "Artisan", but I can't recall what the full company name was.

They're actually pretty crappy cone wrenches; mine are very soft steel. Hopefully yours are better.

 

[crashmtb]

I’ve been busy with my shop build out so haven’t been following this thread that closely lately. I did pick up a new Lenzyne click pump and so far I’m really liking the click valves. We will see how they do long term.


This is the most sophisticated bike tool I’ve bought to date. It’s a LABA7 modular suspension bleeder. Idea is a separate tank for each oil so no cross contamination and it should speed up my suspension service as I won’t be constantly switching oils. Only problem is I got the last 2 tanks on NA and I need at least 4-5 more.

I noticed you were mentioned in a recent NSMB article about the repairability of e-bikes. I thought, "I know that name, he's got every PB Swiss tool ever"

NSMB.com - eMTB's Dirty Little Secret

What happens when a wear item in your eMTB drive unit is done? It's likely not going to be pretty.

nsmb.com

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I noticed you were mentioned in a recent NSMB article about the repairability of e-bikes. I thought, "I know that name, he's got every PB Swiss tool ever"

NSMB.com - eMTB's Dirty Little Secret

What happens when a wear item in your eMTB drive unit is done? It's likely not going to be pretty.

nsmb.com

That article turned out pretty good. Just wish it came out a month or so from now once the new shop is fully open!

 

[Snaparxon]

I have some of those same cone wrenches, purchased 35 or 40 years ago. I'm not sure if they're stamped A I D or A T D. If I remember correctly the A stands for "Artisan", but I can't recall what the full company name was.

They're actually pretty crappy cone wrenches; mine are very soft steel. Hopefully yours are better.

I've had no luck finding any info in a brief search.

I've had no issue's with my Kingsbridge ones that look the same other than they have 2 holes in the beam. Haven't used the new wrenches yet but not a high degree of torque applied to a electrical switch jam nut either. When more torque is needed I use wrenches with a AN-8505-** part number. Slightly thicker but strong.

 

[bonneyman]

Eldi West Germany bicycle tool kit I found at a yard sale, I bought it for the super thin wrenches. They work well on the jam nuts on electrical switches, among other small jam nuts that are super thin. The thin wrenches have A D I or something like that stamped on them. I have some just like them but they say made in USA and Kingsbridge or something like that.

I have some wrenches like your ADI smooth chrome ones. Really nice for cone adjustment.

And that Maillard tool looks like it might be for one of their older (1970's) freewheels. Not very common anymore as far as freewheels go, but if you have the tool it makes disassembly and servicing lot easier.

 

[Snaparxon]

I have some wrenches like your ADI smooth chrome ones. Really nice for cone adjustment.

And that Maillard tool looks like it might be for one of their older (1970's) freewheels. Not very common anymore as far as freewheels go, but if you have the tool it makes disassembly and servicing lot easier.

In my brief research I believe that Maillard tool also is handy for bottle caps!

 

[mattthemuppet]

Any DT-swiss experts in here?
I've been running into some issues with DT-swiss hubs and not sure what to think. Up until recently I have liked DT-swiss more than anything else I have used.

I have had a number of hubs now that after a clean and lube are stiff enough to keep the pedals turning when coasting. Thinking the issue is the little spacer sleeve I have replaced that and in most of the hubs that solved the problem but in one hub that is less than a year old and maybe only has 500-750 miles is still doing it, not as bad as it was but still doing it. I could buy another sleeve and try again but I'm wondering if it's something else. Bearings all feel good, with how new it is I don't think bearings would be the issue and everything I can touch with my finger feels smooth nad everything spins nice before I put the wheel on the bike.

How long do star ratchets last for you all? My son's bike is starting to skip in the first 3 gears when he is standing and cranking. I gave it a go and sure enough, when you start to crank hard it seems to slip, then catch and hold. Ratchets look fine, I couldn't see any damage or wear. I have a spare hub I am going to try and pull those ratchets out and see if they work fine. I am using just a very light coating of the dt-swiss special grease, so I don't believe I have put too much on or that the grease is the cause. This hub might have 1500-2000 hard enduro miles on it so maybe that is the life? I just have other dt-swiss hubs that have 3-4-5000 miles and seem totally fine.

this is what I've used for the last 25 years or so
Phil Wood Tenacious Oil
just about running out. The original 240 hub (I think it was a Hugi, it was that old) on my mtb split at the drive side spoke flange after around 10 years or so of riding all around the world. The replacement 340 has lasted since then - ridden in rocky central PA, eastern WA, central TX and now upstate SC. The very tips of the 18 tooth ratchets are looking a little shiny, but it doesn't have any problems with me grinding up a crazy climb at 5 or 6rpm The 340 hub on my Giant Road-e has been on there for around 38,000 miles with no problems, just replacing the bearings when they get worn.

A good rule of thumb is when they get loud, clean everything inside and give the ratchets at good coating of Tenacious Oil all over then push it back together.

 

[bonneyman]

In my brief research I believe that Maillard tool also is handy for bottle caps!

I have several oldie bottle openers in my kitchen draw for those caps. Just gifted one to a young friend of mine who's getting married. Put together a kitchen "tool" kit with items every kitchen needs but nobody thinks to give them as a wedding gift. One of the items was a spare bottle cap opener.

Robot or human?

 

[terrific]

Do bicycle-oriented chain breakers offer any advantages over the more industrial options available?

All of these are advertised as Made in USA

bike options
Abbey - Decade chain tool $185
Park - CT15 $163
Park - CT 3.3 $49

industrial options
Smith tool - B-5035 $65
iGoPro Lawn Supply - $15

edit: removing the $15 option because the packaging says it's made in China. Including a picture (purple highlighting is mine) because that's pretty egregious, ha!

 

[Meursault74]

Do bicycle-oriented chain breakers offer any advantages over the more industrial options available?

All of these are advertised as Made in USA

bike options
Abbey - Decade chain tool $185
Park - CT15 $163
Park - CT 3.3 $49

industrial options
Smith tool - B-5035 $65
iGoPro Lawn Supply - $15

edit: removing the $15 option because the packaging says it's made in China. Including a picture (purple highlighting is mine) because that's pretty egregious, ha!

I've never used that type. I have no idea how well a job it would do. I've also seen a video of a guy using a drift punch to size his chain. I bought whatever Park tools was making 25 years ago, likely similar in quality to the $49 one you mentioned.

I still run Shimano 9 speed chains, and I need the chain tool to set the connecting pin properly. By the looks of that one I doubt it would do it well.

If you don't want to pay too much,....... I'd use this one on any chain for MY Bike before I'd use the one you linked. It's 6 bucks. JensonUSA I order from them often, they're close by to me and I get stuff the next day.

Foundation 336 Bike Chain Tool | Jenson USA

Wrench it yourself with Foundation Bike Tools From pedal wrenches to repair stands Foundation Bike Tools offers a collection of quality tools that are essential to keeping your bike in top shape and ready for adventure. Foundation Bike Tools is here to give you an extra set of hands for basic...

www.jensonusa.com

I doubt it's made in the USA, though.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Do bicycle-oriented chain breakers offer any advantages over the more industrial options available?

All of these are advertised as Made in USA

bike options
Abbey - Decade chain tool $185
Park - CT15 $163
Park - CT 3.3 $49

industrial options
Smith tool - B-5035 $65
iGoPro Lawn Supply - $15

edit: removing the $15 option because the packaging says it's made in China. Including a picture (purple highlighting is mine) because that's pretty egregious, ha!

I’ve have had the park pro version for over a decade. Works well enough but wasn’t compatible with flat top chains. So bought the abbey. The Abbey is amazing, very solid and well built…. They make specific die sets for each chain type so that’s a big plus in a pro setting. I leave one set up for flat top and another set for 12speed and love them. That being said they are totally overkill for a home shop use…. Reminds me a bit of Starrett best quality but also boarder lining on tool jewelry…. Lots of cheaper options that are 95% as good for half the costs. I’d avoid an industrial style as it’s really nice having the proper guide to ensure you are always pushing the pins square to the links.

There are very few Park tools these days that I’d buy. Unior makes quality bike tools reasonably priced and for me in a pro setting there is often way better options although more costly then Park. Parks quality seems to be constantly slipping. I also own damn near everything Abbey makes aside from their wheel building tools and there is very little I wouldnt buy again.

 

[HannibalLecter]

I’ve have had the park pro version for over a decade. Works well enough but wasn’t compatible with flat top chains. So bought the abbey. The Abbey is amazing, very solid and well built…. They make specific die sets for each chain type so that’s a big plus in a pro setting. I leave one set up for flat top and another set for 12speed and love them. That being said they are totally overkill for a home shop use…. Reminds me a bit of Starrett best quality but also boarder lining on tool jewelry…. Lots of cheaper options that are 95% as good for half the costs. I’d avoid an industrial style as it’s really nice having the proper guide to ensure you are always pushing the pins square to the links.

There are very few Park tools these days that I’d buy. Unior makes quality bike tools reasonably priced and for me in a pro setting there is often way better options although more costly then Park. Parks quality seems to be constantly slipping. I also own damn near everything Abbey makes aside from their wheel building tools and there is very little I wouldnt buy again.

If you want a really quirky one and nit that expensive Hozan C 271

 

[Meursault74]

If you want a really quirky one and nit that expensive Hozan C 271

C-371 Chain Tool [HOZAN] HOZAN CO., LTD.

www.hozan.co.jp

This one?

Check out the video of it in use. Spring loaded, an orifice to put the connecting pin in so you can break it. Funny enough I've always just used pliers like it showed in the instructions from Shimano. Maybe in a shop that'll save a few seconds each time and that'll add up.

Home use vs Pro use has different "needs".


@terrific did you see this one on sale at the Park Website for $20?

CT-3.2 Chain Tool

A professional shop-quality tool for removal and installation of single-speed and multi-speed bicycle chain rivets.

www.parktool.com

read the print on what it's compatible with.

 

[HannibalLecter]

C-371 Chain Tool [HOZAN] HOZAN CO., LTD.

www.hozan.co.jp

This one?

Check out the video of it in use. Spring loaded, an orifice to put the connecting pin in so you can break it. Funny enough I've always just used pliers like it showed in the instructions from Shimano. Maybe in a shop that'll save a few seconds each time and that'll add up.

Home use vs Pro use has different "needs".


@terrific did you see this one on sale at the Park Website for $20?

CT-3.2 Chain Tool

A professional shop-quality tool for removal and installation of single-speed and multi-speed bicycle chain rivets.

www.parktool.com

read the print on what it's compatible with.

Yep that's it. I don't care about the pin but it is spring loaded so it can accommodate every chain

 

[Meursault74]

Yep that's it. I don't care about the pin but it is spring loaded so it can accommodate every chain

When the narrower chains came out from 8 to 9 speed I remember hearing/reading of guys using a washer or some shim stock to take up that little gap in the chain tool shelf sometimes. I don't how well that would work with 10 and up speed stuff these days if using an old chain tool. Likely not an issue if buying a current model chain tool.

 

[HannibalLecter]

When the narrower chains came out from 8 to 9 speed I remember hearing/reading of guys using a washer or some shim stock to take up that little gap in the chain tool shelf sometimes. I don't how well that would work with 10 and up speed stuff these days if using an old chain tool. Likely not an issue if buying a current model chain tool.

May,but nowadays chains are so narrow that they may not fit in the teeth that hold them aligned on the tool