moab11
Well-known member
I'm not following how you did the letters. Did you laser cut vinyl that was applied over the all black print?
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
On dark color prints you can laser etch/engraved directly to the surface to permanently mark the printed part. I've got a desktop fiber laser and was able to use it to make the letters/arrows etc. You can vary the resulting color by changing the power/speed etc, I haven't done enough tests yet to get that part dialed in but do have the basic settings figured out
I don't know the exact details as to why, but this only works on darker color printed parts....light colors don't have enough pigments or something so the engraving is very faint
moab11
Well-known member
Very interesting! I had no idea something like that was possible, thank you!
gpiggaz
Well-known member
Tell us more about the desktop fiber laser? Sounds interesting- although, I imagine expensive unless you buy a used one? Also, what about laser safety? Always concerned about eyesafe operation...
gpiggaz
Well-known member
Been having a little fun with the K1C for Halloween, Made these to "supplement" the candy that we'll hand out to the little ghouls Friday night:
Edit: I should add: I didn't use Creality's site, it's not nearly as active as Bambu's. Got the files from Makerworld (the Bambu focused file sharing site) Looks like about the best site for this sort of stuff- Slinky Ghost, Mini Frankenstein, Mini Mummy, Couple of different pumpkins, and two fidget spinners- one a bat and the other a spider. All printed well on the K1C even though the files were "designed for Bambu printers" I just downloaded the .STL files and used the default settings on the K1C.
Edit: I should add: I didn't use Creality's site, it's not nearly as active as Bambu's. Got the files from Makerworld (the Bambu focused file sharing site) Looks like about the best site for this sort of stuff- Slinky Ghost, Mini Frankenstein, Mini Mummy, Couple of different pumpkins, and two fidget spinners- one a bat and the other a spider. All printed well on the K1C even though the files were "designed for Bambu printers" I just downloaded the .STL files and used the default settings on the K1C.
Attachments
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TracerRound
Active member
Black Friday sale started on the Bambu site until 12/5. They also have four rounds of "flash sales".
Has anyone seen a leak on the future flash sale items?
Has anyone seen a leak on the future flash sale items?
Some random toy prints to make other people happy and hopefully earn me brownie points
The dapper pickle army was assembled and presented, many were both impressed with them and amused by the suggestive nature of them...made worse when one fell and his top hat came unglued
An iguana model from Printables in Polymaker PLA in a green color changing filament
Came out pretty well
The dapper pickle army was assembled and presented, many were both impressed with them and amused by the suggestive nature of them...made worse when one fell and his top hat came unglued
An iguana model from Printables in Polymaker PLA in a green color changing filament
Came out pretty well
coldh2o
Well-known member
In a moment of overzealous shop cleaning, I broke the little plastic tabs off the push-button of my garage door opener. Parts no longer available, so I designed and printed new tabs. Made it to overlay the old base structure so there's lots of surface area for epoxy to grab.
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This is one of the most satisfying types of 3D printer applications. When you are using it as a tool to fix something else.In a moment of overzealous shop cleaning, I broke the little plastic tabs off the push-button of my garage door opener. Parts no longer available, so I designed and printed new tabs. Made it to overlay the old base structure so there's lots of surface area for epoxy to grab.
soloz2
Well-known member
slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
They got quite a bit of cash from me today. I bought another H2D. This one with dual AMS and the AMS-HT, and a lot of filament. Ordered this morning and I have tracking info for everything already. I've been really happy with the H2D.
gpiggaz
Well-known member
I ended up buying another 3D printer from Creality's eBay store with 20% off, this time I bought the K1Max and the CFS upgrade kit. So far I'm happy with the set up, probably not as user friendly as the Bambu stuff, but it's working.
Did you get the new unit or a refurb? I've been considering a refurb but I'm a bit nervous about the quality of the "refurb".
soloz2
Well-known member
I spent some more $ at bambu today. Ordered an A1 for my nephews Christmas as well as a couple accessories for me. I grabbed a roll of TPU and a cool plate on the flash sale.
KwikFab
Well-known member
Oh shoot, everything 3D!
Well, just purchased not one but two new printers within the last week and a half along with an AMS Lite.
Lastly, welded up a stand real quick for it all.
Can't wait to come here asking my silly questions in the near future.
Well, just purchased not one but two new printers within the last week and a half along with an AMS Lite.
Lastly, welded up a stand real quick for it all.
Can't wait to come here asking my silly questions in the near future.
pwhittle
Well-known member
gpiggaz
Well-known member
Refurb, which was in my case sure seems like it's actually new- I took a chance that it might be a defective return, but honestly, it sure seems brand new to me. Plus it has the full warranty so if it did turn out to be a problem, I'm sure I'd get it resolved. The money savings is worth the slight risk ( YMMV) The only thing I noticed was that the box was pretty dirty, not damaged, just very dusty like it was lost in a warehouse for some time
Otherwise, it was in the original packaging, nothing had been messed with- still had the protective wrap on the glass, Had the packing screws in place, etc. I installed the door handle, took out the packing screws and turned it on. It did have older firmware and it updated that automatically. It wasn't the latest version of the K1Max, but it did have the full metal extruder update- so it's a "hybrid" of the latest hardware. ( the build plate doesn't have the K1Max label on it) It had the original hot end, not the updated Unicorn hot end. It printed the included 16min benchy just fine. once I confirmed that was working I proceeded to replace the hot end with the updated unicorn hot end that I bought on Amazon- I wouldn't have done that but I was also adding the CMS which requires the Unicorn hot end. Anyway, I got the CMS installed and it all is working great. Here's an example of a multicolor print : it's about 8" wide for reference
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
What is CMS? The only definitions I have for that acronym are way outdated and not 3D printing related.Refurb, which was in my case sure seems like it's actually new- I took a chance that it might be a defective return, but honestly, it sure seems brand new to me. Plus it has the full warranty so if it did turn out to be a problem, I'm sure I'd get it resolved. The money savings is worth the slight risk ( YMMV) The only thing I noticed was that the box was pretty dirty, not damaged, just very dusty like it was lost in a warehouse for some time
once I confirmed that was working I proceeded to replace the hot end with the updated unicorn hot end that I bought on Amazon- I wouldn't have done that but I was also adding the CMS which requires the Unicorn hot end. Anyway, I got the CMS installed and it all is working great. Here's an example of a multicolor print : it's about 8" wide for reference
soloz2
Well-known member
Pretty sure was in reference to Creality's multi color system the CFS https://store.creality.com/products/cfs-creality-filament-system. Looks pretty similar to Bambu's AMS.
gpiggaz
Well-known member
It's Creality's multicolor system - Similar to the Bambu AMS. Edit, I see Soloz2 answered the question. sorry for the duplicate answer
Thanks for the info. From one of the listings it seems like you need to purchase additional parts to get the multi color system working even if you buy the K1m + CFS unit. Is that correct?Refurb, which was in my case sure seems like it's actually new- I took a chance that it might be a defective return, but honestly, it sure seems brand new to me. Plus it has the full warranty so if it did turn out to be a problem, I'm sure I'd get it resolved. The money savings is worth the slight risk ( YMMV) The only thing I noticed was that the box was pretty dirty, not damaged, just very dusty like it was lost in a warehouse for some time
once I confirmed that was working I proceeded to replace the hot end with the updated unicorn hot end that I bought on Amazon- I wouldn't have done that but I was also adding the CMS which requires the Unicorn hot end. Anyway, I got the CMS installed and it all is working great. Here's an example of a multicolor print : it's about 8" wide for reference
KwikFab
Well-known member
I mentioned in my thread how terrible I am at painting.
I'll be forcing myself to learn
Also made these on the other printer during.
I'll be forcing myself to learn
Also made these on the other printer during.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Starting to prototype for mounting some LCD-based gauges in the cluster of my '95 Audi.
This is the spot where it's supposed to go (spare gauge cluster for prototyping):
It had a volt meter (inaccurate), oil temp (unnecessary), and clock (which is a pain to set). I'm using the screens and CAN and power shields from Garage Tinkering, as they seem to have a good product. I've got CANbus output from my aftermarket ECU (ECU Masters' Emu Black), and I'm planning on AFR, coolant temperature, oil temperature, oil pressure, turbo pressure, and voltage (6 half-sweep gauges), plus possibly an ethanol content percent.
Once I've got the rings correctly spaced, I'll add a "plate" to adapt the screens and allow passthroughs for the ribbon cables, then the back of the plate will have the mounting bosses for the ESP32 boards (3), the power board (1), and an ADC of some sort to get oil temperature from the original input to the dash (it isn't reported to the ECU, it's taken straight to the dash).
This is the spot where it's supposed to go (spare gauge cluster for prototyping):
It had a volt meter (inaccurate), oil temp (unnecessary), and clock (which is a pain to set). I'm using the screens and CAN and power shields from Garage Tinkering, as they seem to have a good product. I've got CANbus output from my aftermarket ECU (ECU Masters' Emu Black), and I'm planning on AFR, coolant temperature, oil temperature, oil pressure, turbo pressure, and voltage (6 half-sweep gauges), plus possibly an ethanol content percent.
Once I've got the rings correctly spaced, I'll add a "plate" to adapt the screens and allow passthroughs for the ribbon cables, then the back of the plate will have the mounting bosses for the ESP32 boards (3), the power board (1), and an ADC of some sort to get oil temperature from the original input to the dash (it isn't reported to the ECU, it's taken straight to the dash).
Jehannum
Well-known member
Like a glove:
Starting the lower plate portion now, to get the position of the screw towers correct, then I'll figure out the correct positioning of the LCD faces (and the attendant slots for the ribbon cables, which will then lead to the positioning of the driver boards with the CANbus interfaces):
Starting the lower plate portion now, to get the position of the screw towers correct, then I'll figure out the correct positioning of the LCD faces (and the attendant slots for the ribbon cables, which will then lead to the positioning of the driver boards with the CANbus interfaces):
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Been away from 3d printing for a few years... About to pull the trigger on a FlashForge 5M Pro. Weighed multicolor but chose to stay single color.
Anybody else a Flasher?
Edit... I pulled the trigger... it will be here Saturday
Anybody else a Flasher?
Edit... I pulled the trigger... it will be here Saturday
- Items (3): Printer, Spare print plate, 2 Spool de-hydrator
$482.99 - Shipping & handling:
$0.00 - Estimated tax to be collected:
$32.00 - Total:
$514.99 - Reward Points:
-$457.96 - Order total:
$57.03 <--- total outlay.
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I've had a 5M since June 2024. Great printer. Now that they are sub $200 it's my go to suggestion for a starter printer.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Giving up for the evening, but I've got a rough draft of the lid that will fix the screens in:
I need to make sure the screens will fit (I won't get them until week of Thanksgiving, but I do have one on hand), and then I want to clearance everything so I don't have to cut up the inside of the gauge cluster (or at least minimize it), then I need to figure out where the screw bosses will go to fix the top and the bottom together.
I need to make sure the screens will fit (I won't get them until week of Thanksgiving, but I do have one on hand), and then I want to clearance everything so I don't have to cut up the inside of the gauge cluster (or at least minimize it), then I need to figure out where the screw bosses will go to fix the top and the bottom together.
gpiggaz
Well-known member
Yes, there is an installation kit that has the parts needed to install the CFS on the K1 series printers, it's about a dozen parts, including a new extruder that has the integrated cutter in it. It's another $40-50 (I can't recall what I paid for it) It has all the parts to instal the CFS on any of the K1 series printers.
Keep in mind, since these are modified printers to add this capability, they don't "poop" the waste filament out the back like the K2 and Bambu printers do for their purging. It's ok, for me because sending that "poop" out the back of my printers would make an even bigger mess for me to deal with. There is no room behind my printers anyway. There are some "mods" that can be made to deal with the purge waste, but I just rake it out from under the bed when the print is finished. So far that works fine for what I've printed in multi color.
pwhittle
Well-known member
Just enough filament for this print.
Giving up for the evening, but I've got a rough draft of the lid that will fix the screens in:
I need to make sure the screens will fit (I won't get them until week of Thanksgiving, but I do have one on hand), and then I want to clearance everything so I don't have to cut up the inside of the gauge cluster (or at least minimize it), then I need to figure out where the screw bosses will go to fix the top and the bottom together.
I am following along, completely intrigued. I love the idea of fitting hi tech gauges into your vintage car. And 3d printing the bits to make things fit like factory is just another reason why 3d printers are awesome. Trying to figure out what you're up to, I went to the site for your gauges.. and got confused. Let's pretend I'm a complete idiot. Can you explain the whole setup with the aftermarket ECU and CANBUS? If this isn't the right spot to dive into the non-3d printed elements of your gauge panel project, do you have a thread for the build? I looked and you don't have one here, but maybe elsewhere?
I cringe that a '95 car is "vintage" mainly because that means I am as well.
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Jehannum
Well-known member
I also cringe at the idea of a '95 vintage, as it's my daily driver, and the newest car that I drive with any regularity.
Anyway, to make a long story short, I blew up the engine in my '95 Audi station wagon in 2023, built a new, stronger engine, and put it all together with an ECU from this century (an ECU master Emu black), which has a built-in CANbus interface. There's other parts to that story (like a big turbo, 5 big fuel injectors, and a bunch of TIG fabrication, machine work, and tuning) that I'm leaving out, but you can scope the entire thing here.
What I'm working on in this context is a spare instrument cluster (God bless previous owners' parts hoards). It has a 3 gauge cluster next to the "big 4" (coolant, fuel, tach, and speed), which I wasn't a big fan of. Up to now, I've been streaming telemetry via a bluetooth dongle to my phone to an app called "RealDash", which isn't terrible, but it won't be as nice as having the gauges on the dash.
I've configured the ECU to output telemetry via CAN, so all I should have to do is run a pair of CANbus leads and some power up to the dash, then do some coding to make it all work.
Fortunately, it appears this is an explored space, so there's an entire markup language (LVGL) for developing the displays, a library for decoding CAN messages from the Emu black, and this fellow (whose website appears to mostly be a front end to his youtube channel) has some decent voltage regulation and embedded driver boards that make it pretty simple.
Here's the missing part that I haven't posted yet: what the screen looks like in hand. Lacking the driver board, I just have it hooked up to a cheap controller that's supposed to extend a display, but it's not plugged into anything here except power, so it's just a test pattern.
I didn't quite get the pockets setup correctly in the print, but it looks like this orientation is going to answer the mail, just need to do a better job describing the shape of the display.
Let me know if that explains things. I'm a ways down the road here, so it might be that I'm overlooking something simple that needs explaining, but feel free to ask questions as I go along.
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Bodj Built
Well-known member
My neighbor told me she has a vintage Volvo. It's a 2001....
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
25 years or older IIRC. My Burgman's a classic. And my PT is, too.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Have to ask... what does that make you?
KwikFab
Well-known member
Me with an '86 300ZX and having to remember to say it's 40 years old and not 20 years old
Cruzan80
Well-known member
Three more years for my '04 F510 to be "vintage"...
Jehannum
Well-known member
I'm considering "horseless carriage" plates for my '92 300ZX and '71 240Z. The newer Z almost meets NM's criteria (35+ years old), and the older one certainly does.
It's just good financial sense - I've already got them on collector insurance, might as well have a plate that matches the usage restrictions.
Today, I started printing blanks to match the screens (so that I don't waste plastic just printing lids over and over until I've tweaked the cavity for the screen to a proper fit).
Jehannum
Well-known member
After just 3 goes, I got the screen blank to where I wanted it, so I gave the cap another run, and voila:
Sits flush in the cavity, ribbon cable pulled through to the back:
Powered up, held to the ring adapter:
Next step is to get some holes prepared for heat-serts in the model, so that I can pin it to the back of the gauge rings.
Sits flush in the cavity, ribbon cable pulled through to the back:
Powered up, held to the ring adapter:
Next step is to get some holes prepared for heat-serts in the model, so that I can pin it to the back of the gauge rings.
Bodj Built
Well-known member
I guess I can contribute to the thread.
I am changing switch panels in my prerunner from a cheapo amazon switch panel to an AUXBEAM (still cheap, compared to SwitchPros). The cutout in my center console is too big, and rather than welding in a patch panel, I decided to 3D print a bezel. Made one for the race radio as well. Just PLA to check fitment, but will probably be semi-permanent until the PLA distorts on a hot summer day. I can either weld in a patch panel then or reprint out of ABS
The color is a dark, shiny purple, not pink lol
I am changing switch panels in my prerunner from a cheapo amazon switch panel to an AUXBEAM (still cheap, compared to SwitchPros). The cutout in my center console is too big, and rather than welding in a patch panel, I decided to 3D print a bezel. Made one for the race radio as well. Just PLA to check fitment, but will probably be semi-permanent until the PLA distorts on a hot summer day. I can either weld in a patch panel then or reprint out of ABS
The color is a dark, shiny purple, not pink lol