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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

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mv213

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Farmall450 said:
What made you go that route vs Creality?
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I wish I could find the comparison I read before buying. It basically said the Vyper was a Creality clone with upgraded components (as I recall, the extruder, the hotend and the dual-motor Z-axis, but don’t quote me on that, I could be wrong). The comparison also pointed out how nicely packed the Vyper is (true) and how quickly it assembles (also true).

Here’s a review that influenced my decision, though I honestly believe a Creality, Anycubic, or Prusa will do a great job. https://www.windowscentral.com/anycubic-vyper-3d-printer-review

I’m sure I would have been perfectly happy with the Creality as well. There are just as many reviews showing the Ender 3 V2 is a better machine. Different strokes I guess.
 
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AndyL

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IMG_20220419_063837_121.jpg

Half assembled, ordering up some 6061 flat bar for final build. Going to add a U shaped saddle to tie another set of mgn12c bearings above and lock it all together.
 
F

Farmall450

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mv213 said:
I wish I could find the comparison I read before buying. It basically said the Vyper was a Creality clone with upgraded components (as I recall, the extruder, the hotend and the dual-motor Z-axis, but don’t quote me on that, I could be wrong). The comparison also pointed out how nicely packed the Vyper is (true) and how quickly it assembles (also true).

Here’s a review that influenced my decision, though I honestly believe a Creality, Anycubic, or Prusa will do a great job. https://www.windowscentral.com/anycubic-vyper-3d-printer-review

I’m sure I would have been perfectly happy with the Creality as well. There are just as many reviews showing the Ender 3 V2 is a better machine. Different strokes I guess.
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Nice. It kinda sounds like a self leveling bed might be the ticket.

Anyone ever try a Flashforge? The Guider II looks neat.
 
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Cruzan80

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I have some older Creator Pro and a Creator X. Greta printers for the current value, especilaly if wanting ABS.
 
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Neggy

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OK here is one for the collective.

Key blanks for a 72 Alfa are made out of unobtanium

Has anyone ever 3D printed a car key?
 
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txvwnut

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Neggy said:
OK here is one for the collective.

Key blanks for a 72 Alfa are made out of unobtanium

Has anyone ever 3D printed a car key?
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If the lock is easy to turn and you use solid infill it might be possible. Not sure which filament I would use though.
 
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LeonardY

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Neggy said:
OK here is one for the collective.

Key blanks for a 72 Alfa are made out of unobtanium

Has anyone ever 3D printed a car key?
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I don't think you would have any trouble engaging the tumblers but the twisting force might snap it.

AAA used to provide a credit car key for free. It was plastic but had a thin piece of metal down the center. It did say not to use it in the ignition.

You could try printing it so you could slide a piece of steel down the middle.
 
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mv213

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Farmall450 said:
Nice. It kinda sounds like a self leveling bed might be the ticket.

Anyone ever try a Flashforge? The Guider II looks neat.
Click to expand...
No, the Vyper is the only 3D printer I’ve ever had. Or even touched! Just having fun right now. The self leveling is nice, along with the magnetic flexible bed surface. But I have no basis for comparison to anything else.
 
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AndyL

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LeonardY said:
You could try printing it so you could slide a piece of steel down the middle.
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Long strand carbon fiber filament - might be the ticket...

Which differs from a lot of the CF filaments that are powder / <1mm strand.

Where to find it lately is the question - I used to have a local supplier who carried it under their house brand. . The long strand makes the finish terrible, and generates lots of finish quality issues - so it usually gets really bad reviews on Amazon etc compared to the short/powdered.
 
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AndyL

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IMG_20220422_064044_565.jpg
Don't mind the mid-project mess.

Man I can get nice prints if I stop trying to push print speed past 5000mm/m :)

One of those PrintNC guys suggested trying the printed carriage before an aluminum milled one... And I had this Protopasta CF HTPLA going bad in storage (I've had it for 2 years now).

This is the exciting part - final assembly :)
 
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Pressingonward

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gte718p

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Pressingonward said:
I've been drooling on my keyboard looking at those as well as the RailCore printer.

TeachingTech (think that's the name...) on Youtube has a nice series of videos on the Rat Rig
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I looked at both. I’m not interested in sourcing all the components myself to save a few buck. I want a kit with all the pieces there. Time is money and I’m willing to pay for convenience. Also shipping from China to Italy is insanely slow right or expensive right now.

The rail core kits from filastruder, their official distro channel, ended up being a couple of hundred more then ratrig. I also went 400x400 which is not supported on by rail core.

Unfortunately there is a four week lead time, so no instand gratification, but I’m in travel three out of those four weeks so it is not to bad.
 
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zanyad

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AndyL

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So haven't been following the 3d print hardware world much lately... Since the cr10 just keeps on keeping on.

Well it looks like it's time for some repairs/maintenance.

I'm running the original cr10s4, lost my encoder/button a while back, so been working around via usb controls, but now the SDcard slot is being tempermental, and the mini-usb port is starting to get flaky. So it's probably time for a new mainboard...

What's the best path these days? Just grab the latest creality mainboard & display board? Probably grab a new mosfet board too ? (haven't had to change one since the titan aero/volcano mod, but they've failed more than once previously). Seems like a good time to just update the whole control box...

Or do I look at the longer path of one of the new 32bit boards?
 
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nicholam77

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Anyone have any tips on how to do two-tone text? Seems like it might be applicable to the Garage Journal world to label things. For example, I modeled some socket organizers that I want to print black, but have either engraved or embossed text a contrasting color like white that calls out the sizes. I'd rather not mess with a filament change, but wondering if anyone has had success with painting or filling details like that with PLA, and what products you use?
 
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a_thiel24

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nicholam77 said:
Anyone have any tips on how to do two-tone text? Seems like it might be applicable to the Garage Journal world to label things. For example, I modeled some socket organizers that I want to print black, but have either engraved or embossed text a contrasting color like white that calls out the sizes. I'd rather not mess with a filament change, but wondering if anyone has had success with painting or filling details like that with PLA, and what products you use?
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Paint Pens kind of work. If you have a good print with a solid surface, it will just sit on top and dry. If the model or print isn't the greatest of quality, the paint can find its way down into the infill and leach out the bottom.
 
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Bad Habit

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nicholam77 said:
Anyone have any tips on how to do two-tone text? Seems like it might be applicable to the Garage Journal world to label things. For example, I modeled some socket organizers that I want to print black, but have either engraved or embossed text a contrasting color like white that calls out the sizes. I'd rather not mess with a filament change, but wondering if anyone has had success with painting or filling details like that with PLA, and what products you use?
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If it's going to be embossed, you can always put in a pause in slicer and change colors, works real well
 
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AndyL

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I've done swap filament for raised - that's easy enough.

My go-to for coloring the bottom is a syringe and nail polish cut with acetone. But those were petg prints not sure pla plays as well with acetone.
 
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nicholam77

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a_thiel24 said:
Paint Pens kind of work. If you have a good print with a solid surface, it will just sit on top and dry. If the model or print isn't the greatest of quality, the paint can find its way down into the infill and leach out the bottom.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I saw that as an option but that's exactly the kind of feedback I was looking for.

Bad Habit said:
If it's going to be embossed, you can always put in a pause in slicer and change colors, works real well
Click to expand...

AndyL said:
I've done swap filament for raised - that's easy enough.
Click to expand...

Ok maybe I'll give this a shot. I've never done it obviously and assumed it could be finicky. I suppose some Googling is in order... is there a specific command or anything I should know about? I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 V2 with stock firmware.

AndyL said:
My go-to for coloring the bottom is a syringe and nail polish cut with acetone. But those were petg prints not sure pla plays as well with acetone.
Click to expand...

Interesting idea! I was doing some searching in the meantime and found this video which seems similar to what you're describing (around 3min mark):

 
K

kaymccampbell

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nicholam77 said:
Anyone have any tips on how to do two-tone text? Seems like it might be applicable to the Garage Journal world to label things. For example, I modeled some socket organizers that I want to print black, but have either engraved or embossed text a contrasting color like white that calls out the sizes. I'd rather not mess with a filament change, but wondering if anyone has had success with painting or filling details like that with PLA, and what products you use?
Click to expand...
I've got a PLA pen that "writes" PLA filament. It does a pretty good job filling in letters in prints.
I like this one.
 
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AndyL

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We need an everything cnc router thread too ;)


I believe I've achieved my goal of an apartment suitable router - its a bit louder than the 3d printer, but not by that much - at least in wood. Aluminum, there's a lot more noise off the tool).
 
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kaymccampbell

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AndyL said:
We need an everything cnc router thread too ;)


I believe I've achieved my goal of an apartment suitable router - its a bit louder than the 3d printer, but not by that much - at least in wood. Aluminum, there's a lot more noise off the tool).
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Where did you acquire it?
 
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AndyL

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kaymccampbell said:
Where did you acquire it?
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"built not bought" lol - it once was a 3018 pro. It made 1/16th of a cut as shipped from the factory.

bought that - it was on sale and I wanted something different from the usual 500/800w options (and those all were out of stock)

Then proceeded to rip it all apart and "upgrade" it to my liking - there's a few pics in the last couple pages of the trials and tribulations of making it work.
 
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AndyL

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280026274_10159895876225185_8963812003109985707_n.jpg

2$ Chinese endmill, but did manage to chew through some aluminum. Albeit slowly; bit of flex found in the oem aluminum spindle mount, think I have a plan to address that.

And have to figure out why I can't get fusion360 to cut all the way to the bottom of the stock - seems to be a recurring theme lately.
 
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