On a "normal" printer you would have to manually change the filament. Some have dual print heads so they can handle two colors. What makes the BamBu X1 different is they have something called an AMS which can have up to four spools in it and auto changes the filament for you. To get that feature you have to use their slicer which has a "paint" feature that you select the slot on the AMS to paint the part. You can chain up to four AMS' together as well for a total of sixteen different filaments.
Thank you! She is a keeper. Before we met I had a co-worker that was a fan so he played some songs for me but didn't really "get it". My wife, then girlfriend took me to one of their concerts (time machine tour) and then I "got it". Wife's license plate is one of the members name, all I'm going to say about that.Jay you have a keeper there with your woman, as most women I know aren't fans of one of the, if not the greatest band ever! I don't see the flaws you are referringto I'd be proud as #e!! to show that off! Especially as a custom gift someone made for me, your spouse will be too I am sure! Looks Great! Harry
I went to their site and checked it out. Very sophisticated and interesting. But they are definitely into vendor lock-in, and I can dig that, they need to make money for their efforts. Reminds me of Apple in that regard, and no doubt they have studied Apple's playbook.For those who want more info on multiple colors:
Here is an AMS, on the back a single PTFE tube comes out and connects to the back of the printer. The printer software works with their slicer for color changes.
This is an AMS hub which can connect up to four total AMS'. You can see the four connections on the fron of this picture and on the back is a single PTFE tube connection that goes to the printer. The AMS winds and unwinds the filament at each filament change. I am contemplating getting the hub and another AMS but they are a bit pricey. Other than the color change the best thing is the lidar auto leveling and extrusion testing. That is all done by the machine, I just click the auto level checkbox and the extrusion calibration checkbox and the machine adjusts itself.
I'm not trying to sell anyone on the Bambu but will tell you this, I have done ZERO adjustments to the printer since pulling it out of the box. Even after the head crashed into the coasters, just hit the calibration button on the printer and it was good as new. I've used the default settings for all of my prints and I've printer with PLA, PLU, ABS, and PETG. All prints have come out as good or better than what I posted above. I had one incident where massive spaghetti happened with PLA but I think that was my fault because I forgot to put glue down on the print bed. The printer detected it but I was being lazy and just told it to go ahead and print from the app without checking the camera to make sure it was not an issue.
coprint3d.com
blog.prusa3d.com
It's a little like that. Before I found the kickstater for the X1 I almost bought that but I knew I wanted to be able to do more than two colors.The AMS is not totally unlike these designs:
Co Print: Multi color Upgrade Kits for 3D Printer
Co Print offers advanced multicolor 3D printer upgrade kits to enhance print quality and enable vibrant, multi-filament printing. Our modular solutions, including ChromaSet and Klipper KCM Set, are compatible with most 3D printer brands. Discover the future of multicolor printing and unlock...Multi Material Upgrade 2.0 is here! - Original Prusa 3D Printers
A little over a month ago, I mentioned that our Multi Material Upgrade 2.0 is close to being shipped. And I’m happy to announce, that the time is now! We have just started shipping the MMU 2.0 to first customers. I’m...
Correct and be ready for a bit of sticker shock if you are use to the other 3D printers that are not as sophisticated. The X1 has a lot of whiz bang that is reflected in the price. I was concerned that it was too much for a newb but in reality it solved the things I was concerned about which is mainly the learning curve to level the bed and having to fiddle with the temp and feed rates.
Very nice! I'd be interested in the final file, if you're willing to share. Thanks!
(looks like my fridge beer drawer
)unlike a lot of RepRap-style printers, this one has a _lot_ of molded plastic parts, and all the tooling for that was a big investment for them. That adds a lot to the cost to produce it. Looks very slick, and they seemed to solve a lot of the issues elegantly.Pretty close. In the back of the printer there is a wiper/cutter. Before #2 occurs the loaded filament is cut just above the hot end and then retracted back into the AMS. I'm not sure the "magic" inside the AMS but I suspect there is a four way junction just like the hub above where each spool is fed to. Below is what the far right spool looks like. To load, put the spool on the rollers and then feed the filament into the white hole slightly pulling the nub just above the yellow part towards you. At a certain point the AMS senses the filament and will start pulling it inside. It goes in about four to five inches and then pulls it back a bit. I assume there is a sensor or something that detects it's about to hit the four into one junction so it stops and pulls back away. On the back of the AMS there is a section of PTFE tube that slips into a connector on the back of the printer and the AMS has a cord that plugs into the back of the printer. One thing that does kind of **** with the AMS, it's designed for large spools. I have found a multitude of adapters people have made and put on Thingiverse. The spool of white below is a pretty small size, I think it's 500kg and not very wide so I had to improvise an adapter for another type of spool for it.
When a filament change occurs, as I said above the filament is cut from the extruder and pulled back into the AMS. The next color is then pushed to the extruder and the prior filament is then purged from the hot end. In the back left corner of the printer there is a hole for the purged filament to fall out the back and just to the right of that hole there is a wiper that cleans the hot end. From the time the print stops and the print head goes "home" (above the purge hole), cutes the current filament, retracts the filament, loads the next filament, purges the prior filament, wipes the hot end and continues to print.
To illustrate, the below picture is of the back left of the printer. when "resting" the print head sits in th emiddle and about two to three inches from the back. When purging, the print head goes to where the green arrow is and then it drops out the back. The yellow is just showing where the hole is covered and it's ramped towards the back to make a slide if you will for the filament to go out. One of the first things I printed was a bin to put behind the printer to catch the discards. The red circle is around the wiper arm. Once the purging has occured the print head will go and rub against the white part a few times and then go on to print..
Q1: I have not figured out why sometimes it prints a tower and other times it does not. Since it has the wiper arm I don't think it needs it but sometimes it does get generated. It has to be in the slicer but I have not explored it fully yet. It has options to turn on and off supports. It recommended printing with supports for the coaster holder but I did it without with no issue.
Q2: I never timed it, less than a minute for sure. Maybe 15-20 seconds.
As to your equating it to locking into Apple's ecosystem, I didn't think of it that way but yes it is like that for the AMS stuff but I always have the option to hang a spool off the back of it and run it that way if I want. I printed a temporary ring for my wife a little bit ago and did it in TPU. There is one guy who made TPU work in the AMS but everywhere it says not to. I tried it, almost had to take the AMS apart to get it out. Ended up just hanging the spool off the back (there is an included hanger) and printing it that way. The only drag about that is you have to disconnect the tube from the AMS and then put it back on when done. There is a "Y" someone made on Thingiverse that I'll probably print at some point so I can leave the tube connected.
For sure, another bonus is it has four print speeds. On the slowest the printer is nearly silent. On the highest speed it's blazing fast. The printer itself is very polished as well. Doesn't have the built in someone's garage look/feel, on the contrary it looks as good if not better than the Makerbot we have at work.
Hey Tom,I have not gone through all 46 pages of this thread, so apologies if this has already been covered. I've been making metal stamps lately for various things, and it's opened up a whole new realm of possibilities.
I have not gone through all 46 pages of this thread, so apologies if this has already been covered. I've been making metal stamps lately for various things, and it's opened up a whole new realm of possibilities.
That's a pretty awesome outcome there. I wasn't sure what you were getting at with the first crusty rusty picture but now with the patch I get it, it looks perfect. Now just to weld'er up.It was nGen by ColobFabb, which I'm told is similar to PET G, but I only used that because it was in my printer and very easy to use. That said, PLA works great for steel stamps. PLA is very stiff, I just tend not to use it because it doesn't hold up in the sun/heat, but for metal dies and stamps, it's great.
After doing that video, I modeled a stamp for the entire rusted area. I would never have the sheet metal skills to make a patch like this the traditional way -- but printing stamps makes a seriously professional-looking patch
That is damn brilliant!It was nGen by ColobFabb, which I'm told is similar to PET G, but I only used that because it was in my printer and very easy to use. That said, PLA works great for steel stamps. PLA is very stiff, I just tend not to use it because it doesn't hold up in the sun/heat, but for metal dies and stamps, it's great.
After doing that video, I modeled a stamp for the entire rusted area. I would never have the sheet metal skills to make a patch like this the traditional way -- but printing stamps makes a seriously professional-looking patch
I actually drive through your neck of the woods every day. I live in KC and work in Lawrence and drive the back roads.
I sent you a message about the garage door.
The temperatures are more filament specific than speed related, as an FYI. The Die Hard one I printed at 100mm/second
