Is your extruder clicking? Did you recalibrate the e steps when you changed to the aluminum extruder as it may have a different size gear?
There is an octoprint plug in for controlling an LED strip by GPIO pins. On my coreception I have it set to turn on when it starts printing and shut off when it's done.
So the stepper motor isn't spinning at all? Or it's spinning but not feeding? Sounds like either a bad stepper motor/drivers or a loose gear/cracked arm on the extruder
That sounds like a clog in the hot end.
It spins and feeds, then after an ~hour or so it stops.
I did have too much tension on the extruder, fixed that and it stopped digging into the filament. Hot end is new and I put a brand new nozzle before my last print attempt.
Running the hot end at 205. And yes to the silicone sock. I use the Ultimaker slicer, I'm not sure if or how to change the retracting setting.
Not sure what filament you are using and I usually use petg but you could try increasing the temp 10 degrees and see if that helps. Or slowing the print speed. Retraction settings would be changed in the slicer settings as well.
I agree it sounds like a clogged hotend. Have you tried to heat up your hotend, and then tell the printer to feed filament and see if it's coming out correctly. Did you replace the PTFE tubing as well? You might have a broken piece of filament stuck in there causing a jam in the tubing. I would try Luke's Hotend fix also if it ends up being a clog.
I run PLA, the same brand of stuff I've been using for the past year or so.
Understood, but asking if you checked the either opaque (or blue PTFE) bowden tubing that runs from the extruder to the hotend. Blue tubing is smaller diameter, so sometimes it could cause a jam. Also, when you say manually feed filament, do you mean you are pushing filament through the extruder with your hand, or sending commands through the printer interface? If your extruder was slipping, that would make a difference
Blue PTFE tube was replaced when I did the stepper motor and hotend.
But if you do the same and use the machine to control the stepper motor does it work?
Yeah I would be trying it through the screen to make sure the gears are feeding correctly and consistently, since that is how the printing is done
I'll just say I am unimpressed but this is exactly what I expected from Prusa at this point. It has taken them a very very long time to iterate away from the i3 platform to the XL that has yet to see a large audience.
The long term parts availability is a valid worry. Bambu is still a new company and pretty much everything is proprietary. Prusa does open source a ton and they have been around for many years so the worry they might just suddenly disappear doesn't exist with them.
The print was 11 1/2 hours on my Ender 3, so I am not going to reprint it. I will share with anyone who uses Fusion 360.
cool idea. I'd probably make some space for helicoils and the accompanying stuff too, so you've got all the tools in one spot per size.Just created a new storage trick. It is based on Dollar Generals' school, pencil cases. They are cheap, like $1 apiece. They have a design on the top to lock in for stacking proposes. The basic design is a shell that fits the case, it can be really thin since the case does all the work. Designed in dividers for whatever. Once you have the shell, you can use it over and over just changing the layout of the dividers. My first try was for my 1/4-20 rivet nuts. I wanted to store the right drill bit, then I left room for a few bolts, then a spot for some nuts and washers.
I did it in fusion 360. This is the first try, I need to tweak the roundness of the top at the edge and put a notch to clear some tabs on the front that hold the lid between the latch and back edge. I did the tweaks with some clippers.
Not sure why the 1/4 emboss messed up.
Working out the size with partial prints.
Drawings
Just the base
Adding the diveders.
Wonderful idea! Any plans to upload models to Thingiverse or another 3D part sharing site? I'd be interested if you do!
That is the cool thing, you can model it to whatever you have room for. You just have to remember the size is only about 4"ish x 6"ish.
Yes. I need to fix some things. Maybe sometime next week I will go ahead and reprint it just to check my fixes. If those are ok then I will upload it to Thingiverse. And unless you want my layout for the 1/4 - 20 the model may not do much for you. I will post the dimension if you want to try and model it in another tool.
You can post a zip. Make a zip file of them.
I did not know that, thanks. Here are the files in a zip. Again these are untested. Since I am reprinting it, I am adding a second drill holder for a clearance bit. I added to the edge of the existing one. I split up the body to test print, not sure if my printer with a stock cooler can bridge that distance. Here is the test print. (The zip files do not have this feature yet). The test print is showing 4 hours at start. I will report back what I find.
I can turn on supports. I try to do it without support most of the time, I added the knee more for bridging than support. Just seeing how far I can push it.
I have printers in my server room with climate control that only run PLA prints, but the bulk of my farm is in a non-climate controlled outbuilding. In the winter I have to make sure the enclosure doors are closed or I get adhesion problems, but in the summer it's perfect. The building gets full sun all day in the summer and internal temperature is around 110F so bed heating is nice and quick. I haven't had any issues with any of my machines that run darn near 24/7 in this environment other than humidity. I have many more wet filament issues out there than inside. I keep filament dryers running on those machines.
I have my printers in the garage. I have a insulated garage door. My printer is enclosed which in a must in my situation. It also has a spool holder inside the enclosure but I haven't needed that yet. Just got a filament dryer box but haven't needed it yet.
