The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[LeonardY]

But, like many ask, is the objective the output or playing with the printer itself.

Like so many hobbies. Some like the journey while others like the destination.

I am an Industrial Designer, sculptor, and model builder. I spend my time designing stuff then building it. 3D printers are just another tool to me.
I was told by my manager when I said I wanted to be able to run the 5 axis mill and 3D printers. "You're far to valuable a designer to waste your time on that." My response was, "I would become a even more valuable designer by understanding how the machines operate."
Ultimately I think we were both right. I learned a lot and found I was always to busy with design and problem solving to run them.

 

[moab11]

dang ASA really really likes the bed

Textured PEI plate it looks like, that's crazy if so! Are you running the default settings for ASA or customized?

 

[jeepxj]

Textured PEI plate it looks like, that's crazy if so! Are you running the default settings for ASA or customized?

bambu ASA generic profile. it stuck HARD.

so far really liking ASA for the P1Ss. preheat the bed to 100C for about 10 minutes then let it rip. been doing good.

made some under glow light to 1.5" and 1.75" tube adapters with it. i figure under the vehicle can heat soak good so asa was the right choice.

 

[XJSuperman]

Where are you fellas buying new printers from? Does it matter? One place better or have better deals than another? Or is it better to go direct to the manufacturer's site?

 

[kaymccampbell]

Where are you fellas buying new printers from? Does it matter? One place better or have better deals than another? Or is it better to go direct to the manufacturer's site?

I went with the manufacturer. They're not so helpful if things are going wrong, and you bought your stuff from a reseller.

 

[loganb]

Where are you fellas buying new printers from? Does it matter? One place better or have better deals than another? Or is it better to go direct to the manufacturer's site?

What you looking to buy? I bought my Bambu direct from them, but if I had a Micro Center and it was in stock I wouldn't have a problem buying from them if it was in stock.

I've got a Prusa mk3+ that's going to find a new home soon...we could likely even arrange a way to do it without shipping fees if you're looking for something like that

 

[XJSuperman]

I've got my sights on a Bambu p1s as a few here are enjoying. As I've previously mentioned, I have had enough of Creality and want a good-right-out-of-the-box printer with some capability. I don't have the time nor interest to play with a printer so much as I need to design and make the parts/pieces for projects of mine. Something I can trust to run while I walk out of the room or go to sleep. My Ender 3pro doesn't allow that.

 

[loganb]

I ordered mine direct from Bambu and no complaints. a coworker just ordered one on Feb 9th and it arrived on the 15th so he wasn't complaining with that.

 

[Xti04]

Straight from Bambu. They also give you a 6 month discount on filament.

 

[cycle61]

And now, a sub-2 minute benchy, printed on a heavily modified Ender 3. Absolutely hilarious.

 

[kaymccampbell]

And now, a sub-2 minute benchy, printed on a heavily modified Ender 3. Absolutely hilarious.

They printed the Minnow.

 

[moab11]

Not the worst looking speed run benchy I've seen, but I definitely wouldn't call that a success.

 

[Cc_windsurfer]

I've got my sights on a Bambu p1s as a few here are enjoying. As I've previously mentioned, I have had enough of Creality and want a good-right-out-of-the-box printer with some capability. I don't have the time nor interest to play with a printer so much as I need to design and make the parts/pieces for projects of mine. Something I can trust to run while I walk out of the room or go to sleep. My Ender 3pro doesn't allow that.

Maybe it was just luck, but my k1 worked great right out of the box...

 

[jeepxj]

Not the worst looking speed run benchy I've seen, but I definitely wouldn't call that a success.

thats what my wife keeps saying....

 

[jeepxj]

another P1S joins the fleet.


another 112kg of PETG ordered. 4$a kg plus shipping costs.

 

[jeepxj]

interesting

 

[moab11]

another P1S joins the fleet.


another 112kg of PETG ordered. 4$a kg plus shipping costs.

how are you finding PETG so cheap? I'm guessing it has to do with ordering so much at once?

 

[moab11]

interesting

Very interesting, and completely makes sense. It almost seems like the middle layer could be over extruded a bit to help fill in the gaps even better, but that would take a lot of fine tuning once someone makes a Slicer capable of this.

 

[jeepxj]

how are you finding PETG so cheap? I'm guessing it has to do with ordering so much at once?

going direct to china for it. in 3kg spools.

turns out it was 111 spools of 3kg lol. oops.


333kG ordered: 1,332$
shipping: 994$
total: 2,326.00

just under 7 a kg to my door. the next discount tier is at 1000kg.

 

[Poolshark314]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C?tag=atomicindus08-20

Posted in another thread but definitely applicable to printers. $2.88 for 99% rubbing alcohol under other sellers

 

[moab11]

going direct to china for it. in 3kg spools.

turns out it was 111 spools of 3kg lol. oops.


333kG ordered: 1,332$
shipping: 994$
total: 2,326.00

just under 7 a kg to my door. the next discount tier is at 1000kg.

That is a lot of filament! Also crazy to see that shipping was almost as much as the filament itself. Sounds like you'll be set for a good while now.

 

[jeepxj]

That is a lot of filament! Also crazy to see that shipping was almost as much as the filament itself. Sounds like you'll be set for a good while now.

I really want to get shipping to 50% of the cost. but thats a bit more to go on the volume im sure.

i'm slowly putting all my printers to the .6 CHT nozzle. this takes it from 2 walls to single .8mm wall thickness thus dropping print time pretty dramatically.

each printer then is able to do 2kg a day that way. 4 production printers. 8kg a day at full capacity burn rate. a month and change on time. which sadly turns in ordering the next order before the prior one arrives. I need to up my order to get 60-90 days to better capacity planning capabilities. right now its guess work.



i need to do a new volume test to see if i can eek more out. between the below two is how it can pump thru so much in a time period.

 

[MadeByMiller]

I really want to get shipping to 50% of the cost. but thats a bit more to go on the volume im sure.

i'm slowly putting all my printers to the .6 CHT nozzle. this takes it from 2 walls to single .8mm wall thickness thus dropping print time pretty dramatically.

each printer then is able to do 2kg a day that way. 4 production printers. 8kg a day at full capacity burn rate. a month and change on time. which sadly turns in ordering the next order before the prior one arrives. I need to up my order to get 60-90 days to better capacity planning capabilities. right now its guess work.



i need to do a new volume test to see if i can eek more out. between the below two is how it can pump thru so much in a time period.

Those are crazy numbers. How much does the fuzzy skin slow down your print times?

 

[jeepxj]

Those are crazy numbers. How much does the fuzzy skin slow down your print times?

fuzzy skin is .2 / .08 now. with the acceleration numbers like that lets find out.




so this is the normal production print with my production settings.







reseting back to factory on speeds BUT keeping the volumetric flow at 36:





Going to generic PETG profile from bambu and factory speeds:




If we go from a .6 nozzle single wall to a .4 nozzle dual wall at .32 height at factory everything with bambu default PETG profile:




so for me these nozzles make my machines 4x more efficient. I'm running into the limit of the heater on the nozzle. 400mms/36volume is about all the heater can do. I print at 242-250.

 

[MadeByMiller]

fuzzy skin is .2 / .08 now. with the acceleration numbers like that lets find out.




so this is the normal production print with my production settings.







reseting back to factory on speeds BUT keeping the volumetric flow at 36:





Going to generic PETG profile from bambu and factory speeds:




If we go from a .6 nozzle single wall to a .4 nozzle dual wall at .32 height at factory everything with bambu default PETG profile:




so for me these nozzles make my machines 4x more efficient. I'm running into the limit of the heater on the nozzle. 400mms/36volume is about all the heater can do. I print at 242-250.

So the first example is with fuzzy skin turned off and it only decreased print time by 8 minutes? I've messed around with it in the past and it added a surprising amount of time to those prints. You've done some neat work maximizing print efficiency as you say. What's stopping you from going to a .8mm nozzle? Not enough detail or is it not able to flow enough plastic to beat the .6mm?

 

[jeepxj]

So the first example is with fuzzy skin turned off and it only decreased print time by 8 minutes? I've messed around with it in the past and it added a surprising amount of time to those prints. You've done some neat work maximizing print efficiency as you say. What's stopping you from going to a .8mm nozzle? Not enough detail or is it not able to flow enough plastic to beat the .6mm?

i might have grabbed a different printers print jobs. i'd have to dig in deeper. if they are within 15 minutes im happy.

I'm already at the limits of what the factory heater block can do. I'd like to keep it there and not risk the onboard electronics. it would also provide excess line width size for infill and single walls. I think .6 is the right balance.

something more important to me is print bed size. I have a print im working on now that requires two pieces and assembly.



slots together in the bottom middle.



tab fit in the back with a screw:


one screw in the front.



i'd love to make this a single piece design. but i really like my P1Ss

 

[jeepxj]

Fuzzy skin on for 400s/36/.6


fuzzy skin off:


about an hour extra for the texture.


going to contour only:



if i change to .1/.1 fuzzy settings which is about the most i've ever done:


.2/.1


I dont really gain much. right under 8 hours is good as it lets them be efficient and minimal down time. I wish I could have some kinda ERM platform telling me efficiency of my prints. i'd guess on avg I get 21 hours a day per printer overall.

 

[MadeByMiller]

Okay, that extra hour for the fuzzy skin aligns more with the results I've gotten. I like your solution for the two piece print. If you ever put together some YouTube videos of your process I'm sure you would get a lot of interest. I don't see too many people pushing the limits like you are. Personally, I almost always turn down the speeds as I'm going for optimum print quality, not to say that your prints don't look good though!

 

[jeepxj]

Okay, that extra hour for the fuzzy skin aligns more with the results I've gotten. I like your solution for the two piece print. If you ever put together some YouTube videos of your process I'm sure you would get a lot of interest. I don't see too many people pushing the limits like you are. Personally, I almost always turn down the speeds as I'm going for optimum print quality, not to say that your prints don't look good though!

I've found with all the things working together it to be more of an impact. esp th accelerations from experimenting IMO.


different part: left side of that 2 piece actually.

fuzzy skin; .6 fast speed, 36 cubic


same part without the fast speeds/accelerations/ etc.




I want to reduce the assembly time as much as possible. my goal is hands off as much as possible to reduce cost. if I was smarter I think I could end up with 2 of them interfaces and a single screw. but time is running out and I need to get them going. maybe in revision 2.



these are my current struggle. making them calf proof so they dont come unclipped BUT easy enough for a dairyman to put on. there is a bit of crossover there i'm afraid.


the longer bits are flexible but has a tiny spur to print better that breaks when the hoop is inserted.

 

[moab11]

Wow, I had no idea you were cranking out that kind of volume! Those speeds are very impressive also!

Running the P1S's that fast and that much, what kind of maintenance are you having to do?

I don't know if it's just from being new, but seems I've had to do the belt adjustment(then self calibration after) on my X1C twice now with around a hundred print hours due to what sounds like belt slip. Could just be be me being over attentive as it's my first printer and I'm still very much learning, but I don't see a lot on routine maintenance other than greasing the Z-axis screws and cleaning the X and Y rails.

 

[jeepxj]

Wow, I had no idea you were cranking out that kind of volume! Those speeds are very impressive also!

Running the P1S's that fast and that much, what kind of maintenance are you having to do?

I don't know if it's just from being new, but seems I've had to do the belt adjustment(then self calibration after) on my X1C twice now with around a hundred print hours due to what sounds like belt slip. Could just be be me being over attentive as it's my first printer and I'm still very much learning, but I don't see a lot on routine maintenance other than greasing the Z-axis screws and cleaning the X and Y rails.

so far i grease the lead screws every month. wipe down rods. thats it. no belts. nothing else.

this is the current setup I like the most for farm functionality. spools on top. packed in sxs.

 

[Bessy]

Your own design or is this one you found online? I'd love the STL either way if you're willing to share!

 

[moab11]

Thanks! Looks like a nice setup you have.

 

[jeepxj]

Your own design or is this one you found online? I'd love the STL either way if you're willing to share!

that was from an online source. i've updated mine to be original now.

is that guys one:

Lid Lock For Milwaukee Packout 48-22-8430 by Knilloc

makerworld.com

i have ones for the original size and the half size one. ending in 30 and 35.

 

[Jehannum]

Making parts for my Audi project. I'm prototyping a 60-2 trigger wheel to bolt to my harmonic balancer. For a little extra effort, I parameterized it so that anyone can change the number of teeth, the number of missing teeth, the diameter, and the thickness of the part.

My goal is to get it set up to bolt onto the harmonic balancer on my car, then send the STL off to send-cut-send and get a part back that just works.

Parametric Trigger Wheel by gcdanie

The SCAD file delivers a trigger wheel for you to do with what you will, based on a few parameters. By default it delivers a 120mm 60-2 wheel that's 2.5mm thick. Use it as you will, but my use case was to use it to prototype a piece that I need, which I passed off to Send Cut Send.

www.thingiverse.com

Still have to cut out the middle for access to the crank bolt and put 6 slots in for some undercut M4 bolts to hold it to the harmonic balancer.

 

[jeepxj]

ASA is humbling me lol.

 

[Poolshark314]

Dashcam had double stick tape for the bumper and I didn't like that solution. You also can't adjust it horizontally so I designed a little turret for it:

 

[Jehannum]

Done, just need to go get actual measurements of my crank damper and ask my tuner whether he prefers A or B style.

A:


or B:

 

[kaymccampbell]

Done, just need to go get actual measurements of my crank damper and ask my tuner whether he prefers A or B style.

A:


or B:

You could get that cut from a chunk of 3mm plywood at a local maker space. It's just a static measuring tool, correct?

 

[Jehannum]

You could get that cut from a chunk of 3mm plywood at a local maker space. It's just a static measuring tool, correct?

I need it made from a ferrous metal so that a hall-effect sensor can read the teeth as they pass.