The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[niget2002]

Nice!

I'm using one of these to hold my spool I'm printing with. It allows the spool to rotate on the threaded rod a little easier. I use a threaded lock nut on the end.

Parametric universal spool holder by rowokii

"Universal Spool Holder 18-56mm II, 606ZZ/608ZZ" by cntrlV seemed like a nice design, but my spool had 60mm hole. I made a simple parametric version in scad. I added a thin boundary above the bearing, so you need to drill it out or clean up after print, but it makes printing easier. I also...

www.thingiverse.com

 

[jeepxj]

tried 2 bearings. not enough friction. they were outta control.

 

[Drunkonunleaded]

Long time 3DP thread lurker, first time 3DP thread poster.

I've had my Ender 3 Pro for a few years now. Occasionally I print small items for projects (battery adapters, brackets, etc.). In that time, I've probably put half of a spool through it. A few brackets I designed on my own, but otherwise I'm just printing files that I've already found. My printer is pretty much stock and has worked well enough out of the ox.

My ONLY complaint is how loud the drivers are. The sound is absolutely annoying. For $40, I can get the quiet board. For $100, it looks like I can buy an entire Ender 3 Pro from Micro Center that includes the board, an updated screen, and a few other tweaks.

Is there any case for one route vs. another? My mind says buy the new printer and sell off the old one for $50-60 and call it a day. Then again, I read about so many problems that people have with their printers and am almost grateful that mine required zero troubleshooting out of the box.

 

[kaymccampbell]

My ender 3 sings as it moves. I rather enjoy the little ditty it hums.

I vote for keep it and don't eff with it till it STB.

 

[jeepxj]

 

[moab11]

What does everyone recommend for a 3D modelling software for a beginner?
The last time I did any kind of CAD work was in high school 20ish years ago, and looking online there is all kinds, top probably being Fusion 360, but it doesn't seem to be free anymore. I don't mind paying a bit for ease of use or convenience.

 

[draco_1967]

What does everyone recommend for a 3D modelling software for a beginner?
The last time I did any kind of CAD work was in high school 20ish years ago, and looking online there is all kinds, top probably being Fusion 360, but it doesn't seem to be free anymore. I don't mind paying a bit for ease of use or convenience.

It is still free for hobbyists, but they made it much harder to find: https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/personal

 

[kaymccampbell]

Nifty, but what is it?

 

[kaymccampbell]

What does everyone recommend for a 3D modelling software for a beginner?
The last time I did any kind of CAD work was in high school 20ish years ago, and looking online there is all kinds, top probably being Fusion 360, but it doesn't seem to be free anymore. I don't mind paying a bit for ease of use or convenience.

I use FreeCAD. It's free. It works.

 

[jeepxj]

Nifty, but what is it?

a bin for a tractor.


but struggling with:

 

[kaymccampbell]

a bin for a tractor.


but struggling with:

Not supposed to split there? Or just a little warpage at the joint?

 

[jeepxj]

Not supposed to split there? Or just a little warpage at the joint?

no. its at the color transition. guessing a cold joint is the cause.

 

[MadeByMiller]

a bin for a tractor.


but struggling with:

There's a relatively new feature that is in Orcaslicer but I don't know if it's on Bambu Studio yet. It's called Reverse on Odd and it reverses the extrusion direction for every odd numbered perimeter. It's supposed to help reduce stresses in the walls and prevent warping. Worth a shot!

Note: you have to set the Reverse Threshold to 0 or it will only work on overhangs.

 

[jeepxj]

There's a relatively new feature that is in Orcaslicer but I don't know if it's on Bambu Studio yet. It's called Reverse on Odd and it reverses the extrusion direction for every odd numbered perimeter. It's supposed to help reduce stresses in the walls and prevent warping. Worth a shot!

Note: you have to set the Reverse Threshold to 0 or it will only work on overhangs.

well that is something ill check out for sure.

 

[jeepxj]

no sense in bending over until I need to. can fit 8 on the shelf they are on. there is one backed up to these 4 on the other side. gona pick up another one this weekend.

 

[jeepxj]

 

[kaymccampbell]

?

 

[jeepxj]

?

 

[moab11]

Interesting with the threads on the bottom for a water bottle.
Was this designed for something in particular? Or just a handy way to let funnels drip dry?

 

[Firebrick43]

Need a dust lid

 

[jeepxj]

Interesting with the threads on the bottom for a water bottle.
Was this designed for something in particular? Or just a handy way to let funnels drip dry?

i modifed to allow for magnets to get screwed on

oil funnel drip catching mount v2 by BartmanEH

A way to store a dirty dripping funnel, such as an oil funnel. Just screw in an empty quart oil bottle into the bottom and rest the dripping oily funnel on the top. The mount is a V-Mount for easy removal of the mount. Also fits a standard soda pop bottle. The cut out in the arm is for storing...

makerworld.com

 

[LeonardY]

i modifed to allow for magnets to get screwed on

oil funnel drip catching mount v2 by BartmanEH

A way to store a dirty dripping funnel, such as an oil funnel. Just screw in an empty quart oil bottle into the bottom and rest the dripping oily funnel on the top. The mount is a V-Mount for easy removal of the mount. Also fits a standard soda pop bottle. The cut out in the arm is for storing...

makerworld.com

Oh...
I thought you 3d printed a Tractor urinal.

 

[LeonardY]

What does everyone recommend for a 3D modelling software for a beginner?
The last time I did any kind of CAD work was in high school 20ish years ago, and looking online there is all kinds, top probably being Fusion 360, but it doesn't seem to be free anymore. I don't mind paying a bit for ease of use or convenience.

I use FormZ Pro.

There are several versions of it. Including a free one.

form•Z Free - AutoDesSys formZ

formZ is a popular, powerful 3d modeling software used to explore, design and deliver extraordinary projects.

autodessys.com

Most people don't have the need for all the abilities of Fusion 360. It's a steep learning curve.

 

[Gerald O]

Making parts for a nav screen upgrade into a 'modern' infotainment system for my 'vintage' 2000 Jag.
Had to build the printer first though. Tried to print this in ASA on my old CR10 but it just wasn't up to it.

 

[Cruzan80]

Just got in two Bambu X1C printers for School/work. Managed to mostly get one unpacked, then had two snow days.

Any recommendations for Bambu slicer vs Orca? First setup tips/tricks? Broke open the manual to figure out how to actually remove everything. We will be running these via SD, instead of over network (for now at least).

 

[Citation]

Long time 3DP thread lurker, first time 3DP thread poster.

I've had my Ender 3 Pro for a few years now. Occasionally I print small items for projects (battery adapters, brackets, etc.). In that time, I've probably put half of a spool through it. A few brackets I designed on my own, but otherwise I'm just printing files that I've already found. My printer is pretty much stock and has worked well enough out of the ox.

My ONLY complaint is how loud the drivers are. The sound is absolutely annoying. For $40, I can get the quiet board. For $100, it looks like I can buy an entire Ender 3 Pro from Micro Center that includes the board, an updated screen, and a few other tweaks.

Is there any case for one route vs. another? My mind says buy the new printer and sell off the old one for $50-60 and call it a day. Then again, I read about so many problems that people have with their printers and am almost grateful that mine required zero troubleshooting out of the box.

The $100 Ender at Microcenter is the Ender 3 V2. We got one for my father for Christmas. It's a small upgrade over the 3 Pro. I do understand what you mean about the noise. The V2 is very quite in comparison but otherwise the print quality/speed are basically the same as the 3 Pro. Microcenter has a similar deal on the Ender 3 S1 for $150 (again with a coupon you have to find). The S1 is a big step up as it has auto bed leveling, faster print speeds, and a direct drive extruder that is better for both flexible materials and for print jobs that have a lot of start/stops of the extruder. For most people I would say the extra $50 is worth it. However, in your case maybe not. If you are already happy with the old printer in every way other than sound and you don't see trying to expand your usage/capabilities etc, then the V2 is probably better. It's fans are no louder than those on the 3 Pro and are quieter than those on the S1. Both have the very quite motors. So basically the V2 is quieter at the expense of lesser overall capabilities.

If you do think you can get $50-60 for your old printer I would get one of the new ones. I personally would get the S1 but I'm not sure if I would recommend the S1 over the V2 for your needs.

 

[jeepxj]

Oh...
I thought you 3d printed a Tractor urinal.

im not against you doing that.

 

[GarageHobbyist]

What does everyone recommend for a 3D modelling software for a beginner?
The last time I did any kind of CAD work was in high school 20ish years ago, and looking online there is all kinds, top probably being Fusion 360, but it doesn't seem to be free anymore. I don't mind paying a bit for ease of use or convenience.

I was using Fusion360, but I have really grown to like OnShape.

Since Fusion360 basically requires an internet connection at this point, I figured I might as well get the benefits of something that is fully cloud based and not have to install software at all.
With Onshape I can work on my garage computer, go inside and pull out my laptop and pick up right where I left off. I can also log in at work when I have some down time and work on something.

 

[jeepxj]

 

[moab11]

Is that a new P1S I see waiting to get added to the stable?

 

[jeepxj]

Is that a new P1S I see waiting to get added to the stable?

already 2 jobs deep on its ticker.

wish they had more in stock at microcenter.

this is about 3 weeks worth of burn i think. hard to keep track. working with supplier for next order to be 10 or 25kg spools

 

[Drunkonunleaded]

The $100 Ender at Microcenter is the Ender 3 V2. We got one for my father for Christmas. It's a small upgrade over the 3 Pro. I do understand what you mean about the noise. The V2 is very quite in comparison but otherwise the print quality/speed are basically the same as the 3 Pro. Microcenter has a similar deal on the Ender 3 S1 for $150 (again with a coupon you have to find). The S1 is a big step up as it has auto bed leveling, faster print speeds, and a direct drive extruder that is better for both flexible materials and for print jobs that have a lot of start/stops of the extruder. For most people I would say the extra $50 is worth it. However, in your case maybe not. If you are already happy with the old printer in every way other than sound and you don't see trying to expand your usage/capabilities etc, then the V2 is probably better. It's fans are no louder than those on the 3 Pro and are quieter than those on the S1. Both have the very quite motors. So basically the V2 is quieter at the expense of lesser overall capabilities.

If you do think you can get $50-60 for your old printer I would get one of the new ones. I personally would get the S1 but I'm not sure if I would recommend the S1 over the V2 for your needs.

Didn't know that the S1 was on a coupon deal as well. The auto leveling was another thing that I wanted to ad to my Ender 3. This is pretty much a no-brainer now. I appreciate the input.

 

[shakenfake]

Just purchased something that I would like to scan and then 3D print based off the scan. My question is, how accurate are these scans?

Second question: If I decide to just model it how do I go about modeling screw holes?

 

[purplezr2]

Just purchased something that I would like to scan and then 3D print based off the scan. My question is, how accurate are these scans?

Second question: If I decide to just model it how do I go about modeling screw holes?

Are you planning to put inserts in the screw holes or are you trying to print threads.

 

[Cruzan80]

To the second question, I would model at minor root diameter. Either you could tap the holes to cut threads into the plastic, or use the threads on the screw itself to cut threads. Or you can model a hex hole, to embed a nut (captive or otherwise). It depends on how big the screw is and how many.

The second issue would be how tight the printer you are using can hold exact tolerances.

 

[shakenfake]

Are you planning to put inserts in the screw holes or are you trying to print threads.

Print threads. I guess what I could do however is just tap all the threads instead and print a hole that is just a hole.

 

[jmdirk]

i modifed to allow for magnets to get screwed on

oil funnel drip catching mount v2 by BartmanEH

A way to store a dirty dripping funnel, such as an oil funnel. Just screw in an empty quart oil bottle into the bottom and rest the dripping oily funnel on the top. The mount is a V-Mount for easy removal of the mount. Also fits a standard soda pop bottle. The cut out in the arm is for storing...

makerworld.com

Cool. The original there was done by a buddy of mine

And the main photo on MW is actually from my garage

 

[jeepxj]

Cool. The original there was done by a buddy of mine

And the main photo on MW is actually from my garage

sweet! really good design minus it not liking the costco water bottles. gona remix it to be happier with those.

 

[jeepxj]

for my screw holes I use a type F screw.





for 8-32 screws I use a 3.6mm hole size. threads in really good. i did a test print with holes from 3.0 to 5.0 in .1 steps to arrive at 3.6

 

[purplezr2]

for my screw holes I use a type F screw.





for 8-32 screws I use a 3.6mm hole size. threads in really good. i did a test print with holes from 3.0 to 5.0 in .1 steps to arrive at 3.6

Do you increase your wall thickness in that area.

Is there such a thing as variable wall thickness with bambu?