Jehannum
Well-known member
Finished the cyclone separator:
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Well I found my issue @loganb. AMS managed to get a strand of filament lodged the infill length of the infeed tube on one slot. Perfect length to not reach a feeder and jam the rest. Pushed it out with more filament after releasing tension. This is the first mechanical issue I've had with this p1s setup since February.
When you get 2 printers running at the same time... off course you don't make anything immediately useful
You work on printing articulated animals in white to put in a box that says "open in case of kids emergency" OK not that bad, but they're to distract the kids by giving them something fun to paint
Models are Giraffe and whale shark from Makerworld
You work on printing articulated animals in white to put in a box that says "open in case of kids emergency" OK not that bad, but they're to distract the kids by giving them something fun to paint
Models are Giraffe and whale shark from Makerworld
94 pages deep and over 4,000 replies, time to make this one a Sticky.
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Jehannum
Well-known member
I made a thing, and it's doing the job.
Those crappy brass holders ****. I'm just replacing them a tread at a time.
Now maybe I won't fall down the stairs in the dark.
Again, done in Taulman Alloy 910.
Probably should have considered tool clearance when placing that toe screw hole, lol
Those crappy brass holders ****. I'm just replacing them a tread at a time.
Now maybe I won't fall down the stairs in the dark.
Again, done in Taulman Alloy 910.
Probably should have considered tool clearance when placing that toe screw hole, lol
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
No fancy AMS, but I figured out how to insert an M600 step so I can manually change filament.
Holding clip for my headphone amp at my work desk, with ports for when I need to plug headphones into my laptop or monitor.
Holding clip for my headphone amp at my work desk, with ports for when I need to plug headphones into my laptop or monitor.
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sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nevermind, I’m an idiot today. I *could* try reading those things on the front of it called “letters” and see if I get a clue from them.
its been a long week…
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insanely cheap pla/abs/petg 10kg packs. -$45 currently. takes about 2 weeks to arrive.
Link is broken
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Blipped right up for me.
i got $300 worth on the way so...
but im like 80% sure i know the factory its coming from.
The colors and spool images are very similar to iiidmax, I've had good success with their PLA but don't like their PETG even when dried....for half the price a kilo I'm in for 20 spools of the PLA to see what I think.
This should be interesting...got a tracking number for FedEx on my order....FedEx is saying they have it, it's in Georgia, package weight is 7kg (order is 20 spools at 1kg each) and it's going to Michigan...not Nebraska. Suspecting they may be "reusing" FedEx tracking numbers to get items into shipped status earlier assumingly so it releases money....but will give it a week or two and see what happens.
you got full refund from ali if its not what they said. aliexpress been good to me so far.
not looking good on that aliexpress cheapo link. mine says delivered in cali. but thats usually where the stuff gets broken apart to another carrier for US shipping.
i've had to claim before on aliexpress. heres how if it goes that route:
bottom of the page - click on 24 * 7 help. tell them you didnt get your order and you want a refund. they submit everything for ya and get a refund coming in a couple days.
i've had to claim before on aliexpress. heres how if it goes that route:
bottom of the page - click on 24 * 7 help. tell them you didnt get your order and you want a refund. they submit everything for ya and get a refund coming in a couple days.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
First time printing TPU.
--will destroy PEI. Use glue stick on a surface you don't mind destroying
--needs filament drying. Mine was bubbly right out of the shrink wrap
--can't push it. I switched to a 0.6 nozzle to keep pressure low and kept flow to 3mm^3/sec.
--counterintuitively can't use high retraction. I reduced my retraction and retraction speed.
--zero fan
I'm pretty happy to be able to print squishy things.
--will destroy PEI. Use glue stick on a surface you don't mind destroying
--needs filament drying. Mine was bubbly right out of the shrink wrap
--can't push it. I switched to a 0.6 nozzle to keep pressure low and kept flow to 3mm^3/sec.
--counterintuitively can't use high retraction. I reduced my retraction and retraction speed.
--zero fan
I'm pretty happy to be able to print squishy things.
Attachments
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Jehannum
Well-known member
I've found it works better with a direct-drive extruder. I swapped a bondtech extruder onto the e3d v6 hot end on my CR-10 some time ago for that reason. It does fine with TPU at 50mm/s speeds (dunno what 3mm^3/sec means, I use Cura as a slicer, and it takes linear speeds when slicing).
3 cubic millimeters per second.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
50mm/s means nothing in terms of plastic flow rate. It could be very high in the case of a big line, or very low in the case of small line. What matters for nozzle pressure and melt-rate is the volumetric flow. That's how hard the extruder has to push on the plastic and how fast the plastic has to melt. Since TPU is squishy, you can't push it hard.
I found multiple sources online that said 3mm^3/sec is a typical flow rate for TPU and that worked for me. It definitely didn't work at all at my normal flow rates.
A standard hotend will melt at most 10mm^3/sec well. A "high flow" hotend will melt 20 or so. I push my Volcano up to 25mm^2 when printing with a 0.8 nozzle but I also increase the temperature to partly compensate.
Cura doesn't let you set your speeds by volumetric flow, because Cura ***** and things like that are one of the reasons I'm thinking about switching slicers. The only flow control Cura gives you is to go into preview mode and switch the coloring to "flow", and then match up the colors. You have to manually re-slice and re-check the flow rate. Flow and the ability to cap max flow is critical when printing fast or printing big parts.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Since like 95% of the consumer space printers use 1.75mm filament, 50mm/s does mean something. In your numbers, 50mm/s on 1.75mm filament, works out to 120 cubic millimeters/second.
Lots of newer printers are running upwards of 400mm/s on PLA filaments, which works out to 960 cubic millimeters/s.
So yes, Cura does let you set volumetric flow, based on the diameter of the filament you select. It's all just conversions dude, nothing about it "*****" inherently, it just means we weren't using the same language. Sorry I haven't gone out to buy a Bambu-mobile to hop on the bandwagon, yeesh.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
You are confusing parameters. Neither Cura nor any other slicer allows you to set the filament feed rate as an independent parameter. Filament feed rate is calculated by the slicer based on a myriad of other parameters and is an outcome of the process. Slicers and printers don't even display the filament feed rate usually. And furthermore, a filament feed rate of 50mm/s wouldn't be physically possible on any printer. That would be a volumetric flow rate of over 120mm^3s which no hotend can achieve because fundamental limits of the plastic thermal conductivity and even if you could, you couldn't cool it back down fast enough to make a real print.
draco_1967
Well-known member
50mm/s is the speed the nozzle can travel; it has nothing to do with the filament flowing through the nozzle, other than you can't move the nozzle faster than the plastic can flow effectively through it.
Jehannum
Well-known member
So what you're saying is that you've given a measure that nobody uses in designing or slicing, but we all **** for using the thing that we can adjust. Not super helpful.
TracerRound
Active member
Any tips on what could be causing the black to end up on the top layer where white should be? It was printed in the same orientation as the photo. Bambu P1S with AMS. 
ArcReactorKC
Well-known member
Can you look at your top layer in the preview window, does it start on the right side?
I'm curious if it's from an incomplete purge
I'm curious if it's from an incomplete purge
This would be my first step. Do you have the purge tower on or are you purging into the infill? You can adjust the purge volume and when going from black to white may need to bump that up in order to prevent this (if that's what it is)
TracerRound
Active member
Currently travel is showing it leaving the print tower and going to the left side but the item isn't in the same location as it was when I printed it yesterday so your though could be correct.
TracerRound
Active member
Tower is on, not flushing into objects infill.
I am going to print it again and adjust the purge volume if needed.
Thank you both!
Jeff
Well-known member
Yummy!
?: Is it worth upgrading to a better nozzle? These brass cheapies seem to **** out too soon.
?: Is it worth upgrading to a better nozzle? These brass cheapies seem to **** out too soon.
Jehannum
Well-known member
You can buy a lot of brass nozzles for the cost of a nice one.Yummy!
?: Is it worth upgrading to a better nozzle? These brass cheapies seem to **** out too soon.
I don't like tool steel, because it seems to knock out about 15% of your speed to get the same quality as brass, and you can buy hundreds of brass nozzles for the cost of a tungsten carbide nozzle that allows the same speeds.
If your goal is a printer that "just works" when you want it to, by all means, upgrade. If your goal is lower price per print, stick with brass.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
What "craps out" about them?Yummy!
?: Is it worth upgrading to a better nozzle? These brass cheapies seem to **** out too soon.
I'm in the cheap brass nozzles camp. I change them any time I change filament types instead of trying to flush all the old filament out. I used to put them in a little baggy labeled "PETG" or whatever so I could switch back to them, but for $0.50 each, I just toss them as a consumable now. People say they wear out, but I've never had it happen....besides if my 0.4mm nozzle became 0.5mm, I probably would never notice because I always print lines 120-200% of the nominal nozzle width anyway, so accuracy of the hole is practically irrelevant.
Jeff
Well-known member
Just frustrated I guess. I've only been at this a couple of months as a hobby and I print a boatload due to retirement. I print PLA and PLA metallics & silk. After a nozzle swap, cleaning, and re-level all is well. I'm working on Xmas stuff for the grands.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
I've also had mysterious print problems that went away by changing the nozzle. Like stringing or blobbing that shouldn't happen, change nozzle and it's inexplicably better. All the more reason not to spend $30 on some fancy nozzle IMO.Just frustrated I guess. I've only been at this a couple of months as a hobby and I print a boatload due to retirement. I print PLA and PLA metallics & silk. After a nozzle swap, cleaning, and re-level all is well. I'm working on Xmas stuff for the grands.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
Should have done this 10 years ago. I need to replenish my stock of taps!
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