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The Everything 3D Printer Thread

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Jehannum

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JackOfDiamonds said:
I've also had mysterious print problems that went away by changing the nozzle. Like stringing or blobbing that shouldn't happen, change nozzle and it's inexplicably better. All the more reason not to spend $30 on some fancy nozzle IMO.
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Brass nozzles do wear out, which can cause stringing, blobbing, and a general decline in print quality.

FWIW, I've never had to replace the tungsten carbide one (Dyze brand), and it's passed several kilograms of abrasive filament through it in its life. I installed it in April 2022.
 
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JackOfDiamonds

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By the way I found this compilation of best fonts to use when making 3D-printed things. It matters because some fonts with serifs just aren't going to print very well, same with fonts that have a lot of separate strokes.

forum.prusa3d.com

Study: Best Small Font for 3D Printing

I just published this entry where I compare many of the fonts suggested in this forum and others. All the best fonts I found were actually available ...
forum.prusa3d.com forum.prusa3d.com

For the print above I used Ubuntu bold font because I'm running Linux and that was easy to find in my /usr/share/fonts directory.
 
L

loganb

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Jeff said:
Just frustrated I guess. I've only been at this a couple of months as a hobby and I print a boatload due to retirement. I print PLA and PLA metallics & silk. After a nozzle swap, cleaning, and re-level all is well. I'm working on Xmas stuff for the grands.

TIC TAC B&P.jpg
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Remind me...what printer you using? I've got some leftover nozzles from my Prusa I can't use anymore and need a new home
 
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kaymccampbell

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C

Citation

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shakenfake said:
Looks like I will be purchasing a Bambu A1 sometime sooner rather than later. I am so done with the Ender 3 and just recently have been exposed to the A1.

Anyone want to buy an Ender 3? lol
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Depending on your needs/wants, I would suggest looking at the Flashforge 5M as an A1 alternative. If you get one of the eBay sales it's $240. I like that it's not a bed slinger. It's ~the same speed (not sure which is actually faster) and similar quality. Like the A1 is basically plug and play.

The down side vs the A1 is a smaller build area (Ender sized 220x220 vs 255x255) and no AMS option. The up side is the printer doesn't shake fragile prints as they are built. It also can be enclosed with a kit from FF (about $60 after you buy the kit and print parts). The 5m Pro is fully enclosed out of the box for $400 and thus is better for high temp filaments.

No doubt Bambu is good but I've been very happy with the FF printer.
 
S

shakenfake

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sh944 said:
I’d suggest you keep it…. Use it as a secondary machine for ”set and forget” print jobs.
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I am not sure exactly what I will do with it. Re-tramming the bed as frequently as I am doing it really puts me off from 3D printing.

@Citation I was wondering about enclosures for the A1 but I was not sure if it was possible to make my own like I could with the Ender 3. I like the option to get the multi colored printer as well. I am not sure how much I would use it but I would like the option.
 
A

ArcReactorKC

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shakenfake said:
I am not sure exactly what I will do with it. Re-tramming the bed as frequently as I am doing it really puts me off from 3D printing.

@Citation I was wondering about enclosures for the A1 but I was not sure if it was possible to make my own like I could with the Ender 3. I like the option to get the multi colored printer as well. I am not sure how much I would use it but I would like the option.
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Outside the scope of what you're currently pontificating on.

Flash klipper to the ender 3 and install a BL-Touch or CRTouch. That can help with your bed leveling, you could in theory add accelerometers for input shaping.

Of course this assumes you're interested in tinkering with it and the printer itself being a hobby.

We have multiple X1C's in the house but the youngest just bought an A1 and it's been flawless for her. If you have no need for engineering filaments then I would 100% go A1. If you think you'll ever want ABS, ASA, PEKK, Nylon, etc. Then I would move up to an enclosed corexy machine. The P1S can be had for $600 right now and it would be a major leap from an Ender series printer. Much less any bed slinger on the market.
 
C

Citation

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shakenfake said:
I am not sure exactly what I will do with it. Re-tramming the bed as frequently as I am doing it really puts me off from 3D printing.

@Citation I was wondering about enclosures for the A1 but I was not sure if it was possible to make my own like I could with the Ender 3. I like the option to get the multi colored printer as well. I am not sure how much I would use it but I would like the option.
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One of the quality of life upgrades Creality added to the later Enders was some type of auto bed leveling. I was helping someone with a Longer printer that didn't have ABL. Once he tried a printer with it, he was sold. The ABL addresses two issues with the older manually leveled beds. 1. bed leveling obviously. But there is a bit more to it. Even if the bed isn't perfectly level, it's OK, the sensor/computer can compensate for some degree of out of level. For example, my Ender 3 V3 SE could accept a 1mm delta across the print bed. 2. ABL can address some amount of warp in the bed. On that Longer printer we had an issue that was at least partially caused by the glass build plate being bowed. It was about 1mm of bow over the size of the bed. With a sensor the printer can adjust for the warp.

I do agree with the comment that you could add a sensor to the existing printer if you wanted but... well that wouldn't make it a shiny, new tool thus it's not a good option.

As for the enclosure, I've heard that the A1 is not happy with the heat in an enclosure. Not sure if that is really true. That is the problem with enclosures in general, they put the whole printer in the hot part rather than just the printing space.
 
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Citation

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ArcReactorKC said:
Outside the scope of what you're currently pontificating on.

Flash klipper to the ender 3 and install a BL-Touch or CRTouch. That can help with your bed leveling, you could in theory add accelerometers for input shaping.

Of course this assumes you're interested in tinkering with it and the printer itself being a hobby.

We have multiple X1C's in the house but the youngest just bought an A1 and it's been flawless for her. If you have no need for engineering filaments then I would 100% go A1. If you think you'll ever want ABS, ASA, PEKK, Nylon, etc. Then I would move up to an enclosed corexy machine. The P1S can be had for $600 right now and it would be a major leap from an Ender series printer. Much less any bed slinger on the market.
Click to expand...

I feel like ABS, ASA and PETG are filaments that many people might be interested in printing. I know from friends you can get them to print on an open bed printer with an improvised enclosure (ie a cardboard box over the printer). I've done almost exclusively PLA but I have some car related projects that really need something better. So far the limitation has been printer location. Mine isn't located where I can ignore out-gassing.
 
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shakenfake

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Citation said:
I do agree with the comment that you could add a sensor to the existing printer if you wanted but... well that wouldn't make it a shiny, new tool thus it's not a good option.
Click to expand...
I did add the Creality auto leveling sensor to my printer and it helped immensely but obviously not enough to not make me want to buy a new printer. It is kind of a band aid solution and I knew that but I also wanted something that would help me.
 
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sh944

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A friend of my wife mentioned something about making potato chips and the need to slicing thin, consistent cuts of potato... I assume there is probably something like this floating around out there but I couldn't resist seeing what I could come up with. Introducing the first version of the ScottCo Tater Chip-errater!

ScottCo Tater Chip-olater.jpgScottCo Tater Chip-olater2.jpgScottCo Tater Chip-olater3.jpg

I haven't actually tried it yet, and probably won't as I have no cooking skills and shouldn't be allowed to play with sharp objects such as knives, but I will turn my wife loose on it and see what she says.

If any of y'all have any design improvements to suggest, let me know. I set up a close tolerance plunger so that you don't have to get your fingers too close when slicing. I'm sure I could downsize it a bit but it should also accommodate slicing larger onions and whatnot. Its printed with ASA so it should be dishwasher safe.
 
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loganb

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sh944 said:
A friend of my wife mentioned something about making potato chips and the need to slicing thin, consistent cuts of potato... I assume there is probably something like this floating around out there but I couldn't resist seeing what I could come up with. Introducing the first version of the ScottCo Tater Chip-orato!

ScottCo Tater Chip-olater.jpgScottCo Tater Chip-olater2.jpgScottCo Tater Chip-olater3.jpg

I haven't actually tried it yet, anbd probably won't as I have no cooking skills and shouldn't be allowed to play with sharp objects such as knives, but I will turn my wife loose on it and see what she says.

If any of y'all have any design improvements to suggest, let me know. I set up a close tolerance plunger so that you don't have to get your fingers too close when slicing. I'm sure I could downsize it a bit but it should also accommodate slicing larger onions and whatnot. Its printed with ASA so it should be dishwasher safe.
Click to expand...

I like it..nice work! Would make my error of not going deep enough or too deep on hasselback potatoes better! Maybe....
 
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sh944

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niget2002

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Josephine, TX
I was kinda proud of myself the other day.

My son broke a plastic cap that goes on the chicken waterers. It's not used during normal operation, but it's used to cap/plug the bottom of the bottle while you fill it from the top.

I took 3-4 measurements from a non broken cap and pulled a few values off of the threads on the bottle.

Came in and modeled up a new cap. The threads aren't identical to the original cap, but the replacement screwed on and kept the bottle from leaking. I printed the replacement in ASA as it lives in the sun out in the yard.
 
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moab11

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Nov 22, 2015
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Thunder Bay, Ontario
Sounds like the new printer will be closer to the X1E since they are calling it a flagship and above the X1C. Not sounding good on the price point, but hopefully will have a bigger build volume.
 
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bugnut

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Saw something like this on the interwebs and thought I can do that. These are piece to block intake on a dual port vw head, print screwed up the first time got the dreaded blob, added supports and she printed like a champion!
 

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gte718p

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I have been having issues with the raspberry pi that runs klipper and mainsail going under voltage. It was originally powered off the BYT Octopus control board. Despite being designed to run that way it seems like it was not getting enough voltage. To fix it, I decided to add a separate 5v power supply. I also took the opportunity to add a DIN rail and clean up some of the 220 volt wiring.

I’m pleased with how it came out.

I also upgraded all the software. That turned out to be quite the adventure. However, everything is compiled and back to working.
IMG_0929.jpeg
 
A

ArcReactorKC

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Out in the county NE of KCMO
gte718p said:
I have been having issues with the raspberry pi that runs klipper and mainsail going under voltage. It was originally powered off the BYT Octopus control board. Despite being designed to run that way it seems like it was not getting enough voltage. To fix it, I decided to add a separate 5v power supply. I also took the opportunity to add a DIN rail and clean up some of the 220 volt wiring.

I’m pleased with how it came out.

I also upgraded all the software. That turned out to be quite the adventure. However, everything is compiled and back to working.
IMG_0929.jpeg
Click to expand...
Looks like the bottom of a ratrig?

I've been pondering on building an IDEX RatRig but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I'm still in the middle of my voron tool changer.
 
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gte718p

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ArcReactorKC said:
Looks like the bottom of a ratrig?

I've been pondering on building an IDEX RatRig but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. I'm still in the middle of my voron tool changer.
Click to expand...
Indeed it is RatRig V3 400x400.

I used to like it a lot. It’s still a good machine and the large form factor and insane speed is nice. However, recently it seems I’m spending more time messing with it then printing. I occasionally wish I had just bought a Bamboo labs x1.
 
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gte718p

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Last night I felt bad about saying mean things about my Ratrig printer. I knew going in the Ratrig community was not really a maker community. It is almost like a racing community. In general, the goal is not to make things. It is to see how far you can push the technology/speed. Unlike Bamboo, it is a very open an adjustable platform to let you do exactly what you want to do with it. A lot of the technology that is becoming common place came out of the Ratrig and Voron communities. Core XY, auto bed leveling, acceleration mapping, eddy mapping, all came out of the community.

I print a 200mm/s regularly. I can knock out a benchy, in about a minute and a half. That is pretty cool. The down side is I need to print a part for my dust collector and it is a constant battle of tweaking and software. Once I get it dialed in again, it will print it insanely fast. The part I need is I think a 18 hour print on my Tevo Nerus, or a two hour print on the Ratrig.
 
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