Silly Rabbit
Member
Testing the MMU for my Prusa recently. A couple of feed issues that hopefully has been resolved with some small adjustments.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Just received my smart orbiter v3 this morning.
This integrated nema 14 motor/planetary driven dual gear extruder/and integrated hot end is insanely small and light in comparison to other that have previously been on the market
I am eventually going to convert it to water cooled as it will be quite easy to mill the fins off and put water cooled plates on the face plate and back of the nema 14, but for now I will get it running as is
The “smart” part is it has sensors for the filament and a button to actuate a macro for loading filament plus LEDs that light up and show status. To be honest with my enclosure I doubt I will waste the wire as usually I shove filament up the tube and operate the extruder to feed new filament in via the duet touch panel
This integrated nema 14 motor/planetary driven dual gear extruder/and integrated hot end is insanely small and light in comparison to other that have previously been on the market
I am eventually going to convert it to water cooled as it will be quite easy to mill the fins off and put water cooled plates on the face plate and back of the nema 14, but for now I will get it running as is
The “smart” part is it has sensors for the filament and a button to actuate a macro for loading filament plus LEDs that light up and show status. To be honest with my enclosure I doubt I will waste the wire as usually I shove filament up the tube and operate the extruder to feed new filament in via the duet touch panel
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Here it is next to my Bondtech BMG/Nema 17 and ED3 V6 hot end on my Railcore II
So the lighter weight should allow me to print even faster before resonance starts causing issues with print quality. But I really want a heated chamber to keep warping to a minimum on large ABS and ASA prints.
Ironically the thing that most excites me, the ceramic heater sock is so much better designed that the ED3 V6 heater block and sock. I hate the v6 sock.
I have also been running this Eibos filament dryer for the last 2 weeks. Of all the single roll dryers I have had or friends have, this so far has been the best. It’s simple with just a temp knob and an on/off rocker. It feeds well, and the air flow around the spool is excellent compared to most including my esun dryer it replaced. The door latch is interesting and works but the door bottom is a little fiddly to get in place.
The biggest negative is you have to pop the door slightly to see how much filament you have left. I wish the would have put a little window the top?
So the lighter weight should allow me to print even faster before resonance starts causing issues with print quality. But I really want a heated chamber to keep warping to a minimum on large ABS and ASA prints.
Ironically the thing that most excites me, the ceramic heater sock is so much better designed that the ED3 V6 heater block and sock. I hate the v6 sock.
I have also been running this Eibos filament dryer for the last 2 weeks. Of all the single roll dryers I have had or friends have, this so far has been the best. It’s simple with just a temp knob and an on/off rocker. It feeds well, and the air flow around the spool is excellent compared to most including my esun dryer it replaced. The door latch is interesting and works but the door bottom is a little fiddly to get in place.
The biggest negative is you have to pop the door slightly to see how much filament you have left. I wish the would have put a little window the top?
Firebrick43
Well-known member
If it’s PETG it needs dried
lovetap
Well-known member
Yeah you're right, some of my old PLA filaments either don't extrude correctly and I found are brittle so need to be dried out. Prints perfect with new filament.
Might be a good use for the heating element out of the "heated bird watering bowl" I found at the dump.
Might be a good use for the heating element out of the "heated bird watering bowl" I found at the dump.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
My basement is dehumidified and runs in the 40 percent range. For the first few years I printed I would dry in the oven if it had been out for a long time but I usually printed right out of the bag. Until I bought my first filament dryer I didn't realize how active drying while printing made a huge difference. So many problems disappeared especially with PETG. Even a few hours in the oven isn't really great for large prints as lower layers on the spool don't get as dry as the upper layers due to lack of surface area/air flow during drying.
Even though I have made dry boxes with desiccant that can be spooled out of during printing, I still put all filament in the dryer as its printing.
lovetap
Well-known member
I have started to reach the limit of the small build plate on my Prusa Mini. I've been very happy with the Mini and would prefer to stay in the Prusa environment but could be swayed. Keeping everything local (non-cloud based) is important, and compatible with OctoPrint is a plus.
Anyone have experience with the new Prusa CORE?
Anyone have experience with the new Prusa CORE?
No direct experience, but I think it's going to be my next printer. My MK3S+ is a beast and has been 100% reliable, but I would like faster prints at times. Slightly better quality is the icing on the cake. I can upgrade my MK3S+ to a 3.5 which will give me the faster prints, but then I'm going to lose out on all of the other pluses of the Core One and its future upgrades. I think a Core One makes a lot more sense than a Bambu imo. The support, parts availability, open source, and COO all mean so much more to me than saving a couple hundred bucks.
::ducks for cover::
Firebrick43
Well-known member
and not having to upload your prints to china
lovetap
Well-known member
MK4S kit is $729 now vs the $949 for Core One Kit. Tough call between those two.
My brother got bit by the bug after playing with an Ender 3 V3SE (my old printer). He wants to do some parts with the engineering grade plastics. He looked at the Core One but passed in part because the build volume was small for his needs but also because the hot end was limited to 290C and some of the materials he was looking at needed 300. I think like others he felt Prusa was the company he would most prefer to give his money to but they didn't do what he needed. The Bambu printers were again small for some of what he had in mind. He ordered a Creality K2 (not sure if he got the material changer or not). Note that with basically all of these printers you can run them off line. However, I'm not sure which let you run in LAN mode without calling home. Creality does (we have two K1 Maxes at work and they are on an isolated network). I think Prusa does as well. I'm unsure about BL but they might though my understanding is you lose some features when you do so.
moab11
Well-known member
10KG?
lovetap
Well-known member
thats a honker
correct.
moab11
Well-known member
Are they much cheaper than the 1 and 5kg spools? It seems like they should be, but also have to be a pain to move around in bulk.
its a time thing for us. we're pushing about a kg a day per p1s on avg. 5kgs last 4/5 days and change. these will last over a week between changes.
cost wise my per KG cost is the same if i go 1kg to 10kg so long as i do a thousand kg per order.
this was the last order we did to give a sense of wholesale cost.
moab11
Well-known member
Wow, that is some great pricing!
I thought you were mostly working in PETG, but from the looks of it, you are getting into the other materials as well.
I thought you were mostly working in PETG, but from the looks of it, you are getting into the other materials as well.
thats actually for another 3d printer guy near me. TPU and ASA is mine however.
we're still 99% PETG
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Jehannum
Well-known member
Took my son to see Micro Center when we went up to Denver last week for a concert (because I wanted to show him what computer stores were like in the '90s), and I got a serious Jones for a heated build-volume printer, so I ordered a Creality K2 plus with the CFS.
We'll see how that all shakes out, as I'm not one of those "leave it alone and stay within the ecosystem" sort of fellas.
If it works well, I may have to retire the **** of Theseus CR-10.
We'll see how that all shakes out, as I'm not one of those "leave it alone and stay within the ecosystem" sort of fellas.
If it works well, I may have to retire the **** of Theseus CR-10.
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Jehannum
Well-known member
Well, the only things original are the frame and the bed, so... yeah. The **** of Theseus.
Made a little lock delete for my HF tool carts. It works on the 4 drawer or 5 drawer cart and pops right into place.
I initially designed it for my 4 drawer cart since I deleted the lid on it but decided to see if it'd fit my 5 drawer carts too since I had already deleted the locks on those awhile ago
4 drawer:
5 drawer:
I initially designed it for my 4 drawer cart since I deleted the lid on it but decided to see if it'd fit my 5 drawer carts too since I had already deleted the locks on those awhile ago
4 drawer:
5 drawer:
kppolich
Well-known member
Finally found a X1 C Combo at the right price. Thought it was worth the risk with 30 day returns and PayPal there and such.
kaymccampbell
Well-known member
Wow. Commercials.
gtae07
Well-known member
Finally opened and set up the K1C I bought during the snowpocalypse in January. Still getting used to the slicer software (haven't figured out how to get Cura working with it, but the Creality package seems pretty powerful too) but once I loaded the filament correctly I made a couple accessories for the wife's new-to-her car.
Damn this thing's fast! Easily 3-4x the speed of my old Ender 3.
I think I'm going to pick up some ASA filament for outdoor use prints, and then maybe try to make a cupholder for the airplane.
Then I'll probably start down the pat of mods and tweaks for the printer itself, assuming I get time for such shenanigans...
Damn this thing's fast! Easily 3-4x the speed of my old Ender 3.
I think I'm going to pick up some ASA filament for outdoor use prints, and then maybe try to make a cupholder for the airplane.
Then I'll probably start down the pat of mods and tweaks for the printer itself, assuming I get time for such shenanigans...
LeonardY
Well-known member
Decided to super size my resin printing capability.
Jehannum
Well-known member
New hotness.
Apple for scale, feet for onlyfans.
Cranking out multi-color prints now.
Apple for scale, feet for onlyfans.
Cranking out multi-color prints now.
ARAMP1
Well-known member
The first big project was a full size BB-8.
Decided to tackle R2-D2 next.
Mythosaur skull is about 2 ft.
Took a break from the R2 project to print some practical things. I started doing Gridfinity for the toolbox drawers that hold smaller things.
Decided to tackle R2-D2 next.
Mythosaur skull is about 2 ft.
Took a break from the R2 project to print some practical things. I started doing Gridfinity for the toolbox drawers that hold smaller things.
How do you account for parallax and focal length warping? This method seems like it would not be accurate enough for a lot of applications and would need a lot of prototyping and tweaking on the back end to get it right, but I could be wrong.
LeonardY
Well-known member
Programs such as Photoshop can take the warp out if you input the lens that was used.
If you are using digital SLR use a longer focal length.
I use the portrait setting on my phone which is essentially a longer focal length.
You might need to still do some tweaking of you model after your first print. I usually print partial models to check fit before I print the entire thing.
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
You may have an application where it is not sufficiently accurate. During my working career, one of the groups I started up and managed did reverse engineering of machine parts. Even though we used a Coordinate Measuring Machine, we still had to do prototyping, tweaking, and logical thinking to establish workable tolerances.
Nowadays, I’m pretty much just looking to produce things like Gridfinity holders for tools I’ve got, so shapes that are generously oversized are my main goal. I also save on filament costs by printing a 2d drawing of my model at full scale on a laser printer, then comparing the print to the part and tweaking dimensions if necessary before 3d printing.
Thank you for the thorough responses--also, the laser printer 2D prototype method is a crazy good idea. Never thought to do something like that.
ptt49er
Well-known member
You can also trace something on a piece of paper and draw a line of a set length. Scan that in to your PC and use that to start your design from. We use that method frequently to program funky shaped parts to be cut out on the laser. Generally the scans are 1:1.
niget2002
Well-known member
I've been looking at the Qidi Plus4 printers lately. I may start saving up for one.
Over the weekend I finally got the filament sensor working on the older printer running Klipper. The larger CoreXY printer had one of the belts come loose and I haven't bothered to get in there and fix it yet.
I like the build size and speed of the larger home-built core XY printer, but it seems to always have little small issues. Most of them are related to something I've done. I'm sure I'd work it out eventually, but the idea of just buying a decent capable printer is starting to eek into my brain.
I do have all new electronics for the coreXY machine to convert it over to Klipper and possibly use CANBUS to the print head. I need to decide if I'm wanting to spend that much time on this machine still.
Over the weekend I finally got the filament sensor working on the older printer running Klipper. The larger CoreXY printer had one of the belts come loose and I haven't bothered to get in there and fix it yet.
I like the build size and speed of the larger home-built core XY printer, but it seems to always have little small issues. Most of them are related to something I've done. I'm sure I'd work it out eventually, but the idea of just buying a decent capable printer is starting to eek into my brain.
I do have all new electronics for the coreXY machine to convert it over to Klipper and possibly use CANBUS to the print head. I need to decide if I'm wanting to spend that much time on this machine still.
kppolich
Well-known member
Damn this thing is nice
168 hours and was only missing the rear mount spool holder.
168 hours and was only missing the rear mount spool holder.
Another awesome idea. I never thought to simplify it like that.