goneracin
Active member
Cool, thanks
im going backwards through this thread. I have a K1 creality, and looking into doing a multi color printer.
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
- Thread starter BoilermakerFan
- Start date
im going backwards through this thread. I have a K1 creality, and looking into doing a multi color printer.
goneracin
Active member
has anyone seen or used the Creality Hi bed slinger.
the auroratech review looks pretty good, and id prefer not using the bambu deal, but the a1 combo is option 2. I cant bring myself to spend almost 3 times as much on the prusa mk4s for a hobby situation.
the auroratech review looks pretty good, and id prefer not using the bambu deal, but the a1 combo is option 2. I cant bring myself to spend almost 3 times as much on the prusa mk4s for a hobby situation.
Are you looking for multi material? Do you care about a 250mm vs 220mm build plate?
goneracin
Active member
not necessarily multi material, but multi color. I have a Creality K1 im using, but it doesnt do multi color
Spire
Well-known member
There is an upgrade kit to run the Creality CFS system on the K1 series printers.
CFS for K1
I'm running 2 CFS units for 8 Colors on a K1 Max, works great!
CFS for K1
I'm running 2 CFS units for 8 Colors on a K1 Max, works great!
goneracin
Active member
ill have to look into it. thanks
goneracin
Active member
so the adapter and cfs are roughly 400
for 600, i can get the creality hi combo with cfs
and then i get to mess with 2 printers and can multitask
i think ill just get the hi combo and have the ability to mess with different printers and multiple materials (the k1 is enclosed so i can run other materials)
and its a good excuse for getting another toy....lol
ill adapt a heater to the cfs so i can heat while printing like my creality pi
Spire
Well-known member
To your point, I actually have 2 K1 Max units, each with the upgrade kit to run CFS units.
I can run each printer with its own CFS or gang the CFS units to one printer.
BTW, there is an Android app that lets you make RFID tags for the CFS units to read filament types and colors.
Filament management is so much improved with the CFS attached. No more manual filament loading. Great system.
Once you get the HI with CFS, buy just the $60.00 upgrade kit for the K1, you will want to run the CFS, even if you aren't changing colors mid print.
Installing the CFS kit does not mean you cant just run a single filament just like normal. Creality Print handles the single filament or CFS choices.
I can run each printer with its own CFS or gang the CFS units to one printer.
BTW, there is an Android app that lets you make RFID tags for the CFS units to read filament types and colors.
Filament management is so much improved with the CFS attached. No more manual filament loading. Great system.
Once you get the HI with CFS, buy just the $60.00 upgrade kit for the K1, you will want to run the CFS, even if you aren't changing colors mid print.
Installing the CFS kit does not mean you cant just run a single filament just like normal. Creality Print handles the single filament or CFS choices.
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goneracin
Active member
good plan
I typically leave my filament in my creality drier and hate to change filaments...lol so i normally print everything in the color that is loaded until its gone.
rslaback
Well-known member
Ever see a PLA print fail like this? Best I can figure the filament snapped right at the drive wheels and then it missed the hole leading to the nozzle.
rslaback
Well-known member
A couple fun prints lately.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
How should I ground the custom printer I'm building? This is my plan
But I also heard that the hotend is supposed to be grounded because extruding plastic creates static charge. This makes sense but I don't know how to do it...a lot of toolhead designs are plastic and the hotend just screws into plastic and I don't see any way they are grounded. I guess a V6-type hotend has the thermistor capsule clamped in the hotend, and that goes back to the PCB PWM pin, but I think the case of those thermistors is isolated from the wires so that's not a ground path either.
- AC earth wire tied to the printer frame.
- DC - output from the PSU also tied to the printer frame, preferably at the same point.
- No need to tie signal ground from the PCB to the frame, because it's already connected to the DC-.
- AGND is isolated and only used for thermistors.
- Heatbed is grounded to the frame if it's metal and AC
But I also heard that the hotend is supposed to be grounded because extruding plastic creates static charge. This makes sense but I don't know how to do it...a lot of toolhead designs are plastic and the hotend just screws into plastic and I don't see any way they are grounded. I guess a V6-type hotend has the thermistor capsule clamped in the hotend, and that goes back to the PCB PWM pin, but I think the case of those thermistors is isolated from the wires so that's not a ground path either.
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
I decided not to ground the printer frame at all. The only thing attached to the building ground is the 120V PSU, so the metal case of the PSU is grounded.
The DC minus rail is not specifically attached to anything. From what I can tell most printers are like this. I have a separate Analog Ground wire from the control board that's used only for thermistors. The high-power "ground" loads from hotend and hotbed have their own PWM pins on the negative side. And other misc "ground" loads like for the endstops or LCD are attached back to the board with a "regular ground" wire. I measured the board's GND is up to 80mV above actual PSU earth potential.
The DC minus rail is not specifically attached to anything. From what I can tell most printers are like this. I have a separate Analog Ground wire from the control board that's used only for thermistors. The high-power "ground" loads from hotend and hotbed have their own PWM pins on the negative side. And other misc "ground" loads like for the endstops or LCD are attached back to the board with a "regular ground" wire. I measured the board's GND is up to 80mV above actual PSU earth potential.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Why two linear rails that cross each other?
JackOfDiamonds
Well-known member
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Two side rails for x and one cross rail for y is all that’s needed.
You have twice as much weight and friction there as necessary and it’s going to be very detrimental to printing fast with good quality.
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Jehannum
Well-known member
Printing up a belt cover for my Rockwell 21-100 mill, not because I'm missing one, but because I don't have 3 phase power, and I need a spot to mount my VFD, and up there next to the motor seems as good a spot as any.
Jehannum
Well-known member
It works.
Finally running both of these printers at the same time again.
Also printed a trophy for a beer stein holding competition...don't think I got a picture of the finished item but turned out well....stein was probably 7" tall or so...with a separate base
Also printed a trophy for a beer stein holding competition...don't think I got a picture of the finished item but turned out well....stein was probably 7" tall or so...with a separate base
come on big boy printer.
So....ya buy one yet?
Spec's look solid and to me the $1,499 price tag doesn't seem to bad for the features and size...
2 lol
Good...I feel better...I only got 1 lol.
Had built the cart up and texting with my brother who is also a degenerate printer like us though he has a side hustle printing some HAM radio stuff so his make money...mine just make random stuff. I asked if he bought one yet...he confirmed...so said why not and hit order on the cart.
Will sell the P1 when this arrives...leaving me with an A1, H2S and the Voron in need of repairs.
draco_1967
Well-known member
Time to start saving some more pennies. This is exactly what I've been waiting for! Not that I need a large format printer, but it is high on the want list. I can still print small stuff on a big printer...
There are some prints that are nice to not have to break into smaller pieces and peg/glue together.
There are some prints that are nice to not have to break into smaller pieces and peg/glue together.
This is an interesting release from Bambu...props to them for sharing it ahead of time....no regret on ordering the H2S this morning:
forum.bambulab.com
In short....color change with dramatically reduced "poops" or waste
H2C Is on the Way — Here’s How It All Started
We hope you’re as excited as we are about the launch of H2S. After all, H2S is more like the product everyone has been asking for over the past three years — essentially a bigger X1C. But this launch also brings us a tough question: should we let everyone know that before the end of the year...
forum.bambulab.com
In short....color change with dramatically reduced "poops" or waste
XJSuperman
Well-known member
I read your link, but I must be missing something. Can you outline the difference between the H2D and this new C model please? Both are larger than the P and X1 models and both have dual heads right?
So the H series as I understand it are all the same "platform" and have the same rough build volume of 320 x 325 x 325 mm. The X/P/A series all have 256mm envelopes so H is significantly larger
S model is single extruder
D is dual extruder
C is Cingular or changeable nozzle where it has a single extruder but fancy new tech that allows to swap the nozzle only to minimize the color change waste(should be nothing) while not being as big and bulky as multi tool heads or multi extruder designs
XJSuperman
Well-known member
The website shows minor size differences with the HS and HD machines. Both are larger than the others but apparently not the same if the website descriptions are to be believed.
Is the C faster than the D then? I am not seeing the benefit of it over the D at the moment. A guy like me doesn't need the laser and all that ****, just a larger footprint and quick/wasteless color changes would be nice. I do see benefits for other use-cases.
niget2002
Well-known member
The build volume between the HS and HD are technically the same. Where the HD is 'smaller' is that the Dual head system takes up extra space, meaning a single nozzle can't go the full width of the bed. You lose a little print volume in the Y axis because of this. I don't know whether they have special logic so that if you load the same filament in both nozzles if it's smart enough to print the full width. You'd just lose the ability to switch colors on the full width.
I ordered some more GT2 belt for my printer and it came in this last week. I may try to get my larger printer up and running this weekend. It'd be nice to have the faster printer working again.
they are the same. its the dual vs single nozzle changing the bed size slightly.
the C isnt even out yet. it will have the new nozzle change system.
The C is still phantomware so to speak as it's not actually coming out till later this year or early next year so can't compare anything as to what's faster etc just yet
But compared to the H2D, if you're printing 2 color or two materials the D will be faster as it's not changing anything....just activating the other nozzle and extruder and away it goes.
Compared to the Prusa XL with 5 tool heads, the C should be faster and theoretically should be cheaper as it should be far simpler as it only duplicates nozzles, not the entire tool head. But they have to prove out the fancy inductive heating and wireless data and repeatability of the nozzle position without making the consumables stupid expensive.
purplezr2
Well-known member
I assume the C is the quick answer to the snapmaker kickstarter possibly?
I personally don't think Bambu cares about Snapmaker. Their U1 is kinda a cross between a Prusa XL and a Bambu but their reputation for device success at launch is well...subpar. On the flipside is Bambu who appears to have been ready to ship product ordered at launch as I've got tracking numbers for my order this morning.
Couple videos from people who are knowledgable and I trust to give their unbiased opinion:
sh944
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Well hell...that would've been fun!
I sold it on Marketplace today....700 hours on it(bought Nov of '23 so that's not a ton of usage but it's 1 of 3 machines) along with assorted spare parts/nozzles for $650. Actually went to a local 3D printing store opening up here this weekend and he'll have it for sale. He won't make much/any on the machine but with all the spare parts and to help get some inventory in the new retail front he picked it up. Couple other buyers were interested as well so I'd say that $500 to $650 range is probably fair for a P1S with the AMS and low to moderate hours. Condition, hours and accessories will swing that price.
What does the employee need to print? If it's just PLA and PETG...the Bambu A1 is a solid machine(still got one) and $450 usually gets one new. You've got a Microcenter in OP so you could likely get it in store immediately. If doing a lot of PETG, the P1S with the enclosed AMS is nice as it keeps the filament drier....PETG is more picky about that. If there is a need for ABS/ASA or other higher temp stuff you'll really need the enclosure of the P1S/X1 or similar machines.
I would also have no problem with a Prusa CoreOne in terms of it working and being highly reliable....but it's 30% or so more than a P1S with AMS...but has a larger print area....so tradeoffs. I can't speak personally to the Qidi or Crealitys or Snapmaker etc brands but there a lot of pretty good, enclosed cabinet machines in that $750-ish range...depends on what the needs are