That is pretty cool!AA Screw Top Battery Holders today ... in Red/Gold PLA
With all my blink cameras... it feels like I go through 40 AA each month... I have very nice Rechargeable Lithium for those.
Wife asked for a gift card puzzle box for one of her bosses, my ******* is unable to just print a normal basic one that's done in a couple hours
So here is a more "simple" version that reportedly only takes 17 steps to solve. At least with the bigger build plate on the Bambu H2 I was able to put it all on a single build plate:
Model at:
If you're interested there are a lot more similar style puzzle boxes by the same person
15 hour print, 666 grams of material, in this case across 2 filaments and a support material
Kind of sketchy? Nah, just the right amount of sketch.
It looks rather nice. But it's big. I have the Sunlu single. It's small enough to fit in the space allotted on the bench, and allow me to cut 22 foot stock in half.
Nothing yet, but I just got a printer that will allow me to print such filaments. I want to be able to print just about everything.
I have always used aquanet for pla or petg, even small abs partsEarlier this week I had a piece of glass pull right from the surface of my Carborundum glass plate after a PLA print. I know you should always use a release agent for PETG but I had read and heard that it was unnecessary with PLA. I now use a release agent for all materials on my glass beds and I have 2 others, so I just flip this one and use the smooth bottom now, but I do have a PEI plate arriving tomorrow. Should I use a release agent for PLA and PETG on a PEI plate?
I was a bit leary of putting a sharp corner that close into the build plate corner at the front/near the door....I might have been right about that:
In the app you're able to skip parts midprint so that part got skipped, the rest of the parts look good from what I can see. I'll reorient the parts around to try and leave the front corners of the bedplate more open before I upload the print profile back to Makerworld where it came from. Hopefully some finished pictures of it tonight
Pump or spray can?
I used to use a spray can ... Worked well. Nothing is better than "Stop Touching Your Build Plate" or you will get hairy prints and go blind.
That's why I have three pei plates for my 5M Pro.
Spray can
Thanks.
No issues with thermal shock?
Wonder if the print sheet material matters for that method.... in my imagination a glass print plate wouldn't take too kindly to that, while a metal plate probably wouldn't care. I'm also thinking about my cooking sheet pans that will twist out of flat when they get heated up in the oven, but go back to flat once cooled down again.I the two weeks I have been printing, no.
I'm no rocket surgeon, but I'd bet a dollar that a build plate in full contact with a room temp stone counter will **** heat out faster than putting it on a shelf in the fridge or freezer
I'm using pei coated steel...is printing on glass still a thing?Wonder if the print sheet material matters for that method.... in my imagination a glass print plate wouldn't take too kindly to that, while a metal plate probably wouldn't care. I'm also thinking about my cooking sheet pans that will twist out of flat when they get heated up in the oven, but go back to flat once cooled down again.
Certain printers are what they were... If it was glass... It is glass. My cr10 is glass...
Does it lecture you on what it was like out there when it was young?
It was tighter... And flat.
I'm definitely not trying to argue or say my method is better than yours, but I have to disagree with that statement. The build plate probably only contacts the counter at a few very small points while most of it is actually insulated from the countertop by an air gap. In the freezer, then entire surface of the bottom side and most of the top side is exposed to really cold air, cooling it quickly. Plus, there's usually a breeze to keep nice cold air in contact with the plate. My freezer always seems to be blowing frosty air all over the place every time I open it.
Not trying to argue either. This is how friendly bets start
I was a bit leary of putting a sharp corner that close into the build plate corner at the front/near the door....I might have been right about that:
In the app you're able to skip parts midprint so that part got skipped, the rest of the parts look good from what I can see. I'll reorient the parts around to try and leave the front corners of the bedplate more open before I upload the print profile back to Makerworld where it came from. Hopefully some finished pictures of it tonight
