The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Boiler I haven’t been on your thread for awhile. But you have made some amazing progress! Congratulations actually congrats to the lot of you guys. This thread is a great resource for 3D printer aficionados. Still interested in 3D printing but have other projects on the go. Good Luck or should I say Good Printing.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Boiler I haven’t been on your thread for awhile. But you have made some amazing progress! Congratulations actually congrats to the lot of you guys. This thread is a great resource for 3D printer aficionados. Still interested in 3D printing but have other projects on the go. Good Luck or should I say Good Printing.

Thanks man!

Here are some of the pics of the progress of the big goat... not a GTO, but still a goat! It will be done sometime in the early morning hours.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

Keep us posted. Happy Printing.
Good Joke on the GTO/Goat

 

[plc268]

That's a LOT of infill for a big part.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Keep us posted. Happy Printing.
Good Joke on the GTO/Goat

Thanks. I'm a fan of the first gen GTOs. Especially the '65s.

That's a LOT of infill for a big part.

Eh, it wasn't as much as it looks like in the pic, but it was necessary to support the belly of the beast!

It finished in 32 hours and 52 minutes. I'll post up pics tonight.

 

[sweet victory]

Here is a root irrigation device I modeled and shared on Thingiverse. Works really well for those of you who have a drip irrigation system.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2819149

 

[WhiffySpark]

Are you liking the prusa? I'm pulling the trigger on something this summer. Too many good damn choices now. I want to be under $1000 if possible, but don't want a POS either

 

[WhiffySpark]

Should add, I'm planning an x carve too

 

[Steve_mc0]

Here is a root irrigation device I modeled and shared on Thingiverse. Works really well for those of you who have a drip irrigation system.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2819149

This looks great. I'm moving into irrigation soon. Thanks for the share!

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Are you liking the prusa? I'm pulling the trigger on something this summer. Too many good damn choices now. I want to be under $1000 if possible, but don't want a POS either

Well, I started with a free POS Prusa clone... and now that I have the real McCoy, there is no comparison IMHO. I really like the Prusa MK2 that I have and I keep waffling on what I'm going to do next. Part of me really wants to upgrade to a MK3 and the full Haribo extrusion frame, but...

The only thing I don't like about the Prusa is that the bed moves with the Y-axis. On tall prints like my big goat it starts to shake when the Z-axis is high and the printer is moving the X & Y around.

The big goat was the first time I really noticed it and it did have an affect on the print, so much so that I slowed down the feed rate to 80% for the remainder of the print which was the top half of the head and horns once I saw how much it was shaking.

It's not a deal breaker, it's just something to be aware of, and I know in the slicing software you can dial back the speeds as the layer heights really increase. I just didn't do that because I didn't think it would matter with supports. It did.

PLC has both the Prusa MK2 and the Prusa MK3. I know he has had some issues with the auto bed leveling on his MK2, but I haven't experienced any issues with mine once I reset it to the correct height and recalibrated.


I'm in the same boat as you in some ways because I'm trying to decide what to do for my next printer. And I really want to maximize the space I have available in the enclosure that I posted. The Prusa style printer doesn't maximize or utilize the space very well. If you're just going to put it on a workbench or HD cart and only print PLA and PETG, then the Prusa is definitely an easy printer to get going and learn on. Great support, a great manual, good firmware, and some really cool features in the MK3. That's why I keep waffling on buying the full MK3 upgrade kit and building it on the full Haribo frame upgrade. I wouldn't even touch my MK2, I would just donate it to the school once it has printed all the parts to build the MK3.

However, I'm also looking for a little more out of my next printer. Mainly more print volume and the ability to try some more advanced printing techniques that really require a 32-bit control board with expansion capabilities to eventually go beyond two extruders.




Here is how the BIG goat turned out:

And with it next to the first goat on my son's dresser. I put it there to surprise him when he gets home from FL on Friday. He asked for a little bigger version of the goat. I think 2.5X bigger is a "little" bigger, eh?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

And speaking of the POS GeeeTech... my new stepper motor for the extruder arrived today so I took the GT apart to swap the motor and the drive gear. And that's when I discovered the root causes of the issues, besides the fact it's a POS...

The little MK8 hot end is completely jammed again. The filament would not come out even with it heated to 230degC. A needle didn't free any clogs and I couldn't even pull the filament out of the heated hot end with vice grips. So I shifted my attention to swapping the gear and motor and that's when I discovered that GeeeTech shipped my buddy a 3mm extruder! So no wonder the stupid would only partially feed. There is no way to adjust the tension any higher than what the spring provides too. So it's total garbage.

I'm going to print upgraded X/Z parts to eliminate the Z-wobble and print a carrier for a E3D V6 / Titan extruder clone. I'll add a part cooling fan when I do with a little switch mounted to the frame to turn the fan off during the first layer or two. The GT controller can't do this automatically. The fan is just always on. Since I don't really need any parts from the GeeeTech, or the parts I could use are sub-par quality, I'm just going to go ahead and get it working so I can donate the whole thing to my son's school.

After I get my next printer built, I will probably donate the Prusa MK2 to the school too (after I make sure the heated bed wires are the correct (oversized) silicone wires and I print upgrade strain reliefs for the cables). Then the school can decide if they want to spend the $250 to upgrade it to the MK2.5 to make it easier to remove the prints.

 

[Chicken]

Good stuff. Glad I found this thread.

I have been thinking I will get a CR-10s in the next few months. I don't want to mess with building the thing [tho i am plenty capable and typically like to tinker], For something I know nothing about I'd rather be up and running with minimal effort.

I am budgeting ~500 for reference. AS always I am open to input from the experts.

 

[Cruzan80]

I have said it before, Flashforge is out of the box ready. Had a Creator X, walked in to school at beginning of year to find a Creator Pro. Needed almost no setup to get going, has run flawlessly. Upgraded filament holders (OEM has weird cutout to accommodate their plastic), glass bed install (z-stop printed). And swapped to Microswiss all metal hotends. Think this is a case where you get what you pay for, and do you want to mess with printer, or just print. Has door and lid for ABS enclosure.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[BoilermakerFan]

The only gripe I have with Flashforge is that you have to go up to a Guider II model for $2K to get a build volume bigger than 200mm in all dimensions. They're great machines if your OK with a build volume average of 150mm cube.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Good stuff. Glad I found this thread.

I have been thinking I will get a CR-10s in the next few months. I don't want to mess with building the thing [tho i am plenty capable and typically like to tinker], For something I know nothing about I'd rather be up and running with minimal effort.

I am budgeting ~500 for reference. AS always I am open to input from the experts.

If you just want to print PLA and PET, then the CR-10S is a fine machine and you can be up and printing quickly. There are tons of support, mods, and upgrades available for it. Printing Nylon, ABS, and PC will take more work because you really need to build an enclosure for it, upgrade the extruder, and upgrade the heat bed. None of that is difficult, it just takes more work.

I've been having a blast printing things on my Prusa MK2 off Thingiverse. It's definitely helped me to learn and dial in my printer settings printing things that have already been designed and printed by others. I struggled with the goat for weeks. I knew what the issue was, but I just didn't know where the settings were to change what needed corrected in Slic3r or Simplify3D. But now I know where the settings are and how to edit the models so I can correct errors that pop up when you enlarge the things to make them bigger. Also learning how each filament needs the settings tweaked for first layer height, first layer calibration, and small temperature adjustments has been easier with models that have been successfully printed by others. All I have been printing so far is plain ol' PLA. I have PLA+, PETG, and ePC now, but I'm not ready to move into those filaments yet. I have a backlog of things to print with the PLA first.

 

[Cruzan80]

The only gripe I have with Flashforge is that you have to go up to a Guider II model for $2K to get a build volume bigger than 200mm in all dimensions. They're great machines if your OK with a build volume average of 150mm cube.

Agreed, my default print space is 225x145x140. But I have had almost none of the issues listed here.

Also really like Craftware 1.14 for slicing. Single color support, but custom support screen. Tried 1.15, messed with too much for my liking, and had some bugs.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

 

[BoilermakerFan]

With 3D printers, I think the rule is as follows:

large print volume, high quality machine, low price: CHOOSE TWO.

Now there are a few machines that do give you all 3 in a relative manner, but the low price is subjective as is the definition of high quality...


Oh, I forgot to mention that I went over to my buddy's place that has the new Monoprice Mini Delta. It's a really nice printer for $160, but wow is it tiny! It was even smaller than I expected it to be. It will fit inside of a standard 5gal bucket with room to spare. The build area is 110mm circumference by 120mm height. But the sucker flat prints! The two prints my buddy ran look fantastic. Far, far better than I would have thought possible on a machine that inexpensive and small.

I'm tempted to pick one up and install a 0.15mm nozzle to use it to print very high detail micro prints. I don't really need micro prints, but just kicking the idea around simply because it could do it.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Any LEGO fans here?


3D Printing a Giant Lego Cart

 

[BoilermakerFan]

So for the past week while my wife and son were out of town the Prusa pretty much ran for 3 days straight, then all day Thursday and Friday. I ran a 7 hour print yesterday and my wife complained about the noise. The MK2 is on high power mode and sitting on a cedar chest in the basement. Not ideal for noise, but it's what I have available right now.

PLC268, I'm planning to build a custom HEVO, or rather, a HEVO with a shortened Y-frame length so the final overall depth is 450mm. This will yield a 280mm Y-axis minimum according to the spreadsheet. I posted in the HEVO FB group to see if the standard 300mmX300mm heated bed will still work. I believe it will but I may end up only getting the 280mm Y-axis. The good news is I can fit the 600mm frame height to get a 400mm Z-axis height. That's the same as the FT-5 but the FT-5 won't fit in the enclosure even if I chopped the legs down on the frame. There is a 280mm x 300mm heated bed for the Lutzbot TAZ6 on Amazon, but it doesn't have mounting holes and it's far more expensive than a 300x300 bed and silicone heater. Guys have remixed the HEVO for linear rails too, but I haven't decided if I'll spring for those yet. I think I'll start with 10mm carbon tubes and decide if the linear rail upgrade is worth it later. If it gets me 5mm-7mm more Y-axis travel while improving the rigidity and tolerances, then I think I will probably go for it in the future. I can always move the CF tubes to the X-axis on the Prusa.

Here's a few of the things I've been printing:

Lots of Springy Turtles... because the detail in the bottom has been a great test for first layer calibration and bed prep. And I've been trying out the different infill patterns to see how they print, how light they are, and how strong they are. I've probably had to stop 10 prints now to tweak the first layer, change the infill pattern, clean the bed, reapply glue, etc. And I still have three more colors to print; two in PLA+ and one in PETG.

And I printed a bigger octopus in white for my son using rectilinear honeycomb at only 10% infill. WOW, did this thing turn out super light and super strong! I tried to crush it or pull the body off. Nope. And it's just generic PLA.

After the octopus, I changed back to the red generic PLA and printed the LOVE statue for my wife as a surprise... I bumped up to 30% infill because I wanted it to be heavier. It turned out great:

And then.... drum roll please.....


I successfully printed the thing that has been the thorn in my paw for almost 4 weeks! That's right, I finally got the settings and supports dialed in for the sea otter for my wife. I probably could have printed the smooth version easier, but it looked dumb, so I printed the textured body version so it looks like it actually has wet fur. I thought it turned out amazing for all the pain it caused me:

My son discovered his BIG goat and the octopus first and he brought them down to show my wife when they got home Friday night. My wife didn't see her things until she was getting ready for bed and she loves both of them. The LOVE statue is one of her favorite statues. She was actually more impressed with it than the sea otter. Then I explained how the sea otter had been my curse for so many weeks. She said she loves it, but the LOVE statue is still her favorite thing I've printed yet. My phone does a horrible job of capturing the red. It's actually a really deep red in person and super shiny, whether on the turtles, octopus, or LOVE statue.

I'm comfortable with the rectilinear honeycomb infill now, it's definitely the strongest and lightest infill pattern I've done so far. I tried variations of standard and 3D honeycomb in four or five different settings and the rectilinear printed the best or the fastest with no real differences in strength that I could feel. I'll probably print my HEVO printer parts with it at 50% or 60% infill. I don't really think it will give up any strength or stability over 75% or even 100% infill. If for some reason it does fail, I can always just reprint the part, but the reduced weight will be an advantage on the X/Y axis and carriage.


I'll be ordering Noico 80 mil sound deadening mat and a set of heavy duty leveling casters from Amazon for the electrical cabinet when I order a few of the parts for the HEVO. I really need to get the cabinet done so I can stick the Prusa in there for now. I'm going to need it quiet so I can print the parts for the HEVO build.

 

[Chicken]

If you just want to print PLA and PET, then the CR-10S is a fine machine and you can be up and printing quickly. There are tons of support, mods, and upgrades available for it. Printing Nylon, ABS, and PC will take more work because you really need to build an enclosure for it, upgrade the extruder, and upgrade the heat bed. None of that is difficult, it just takes more work.

I've been having a blast printing things on my Prusa MK2 off Thingiverse. It's definitely helped me to learn and dial in my printer settings printing things that have already been designed and printed by others. I struggled with the goat for weeks. I knew what the issue was, but I just didn't know where the settings were to change what needed corrected in Slic3r or Simplify3D. But now I know where the settings are and how to edit the models so I can correct errors that pop up when you enlarge the things to make them bigger. Also learning how each filament needs the settings tweaked for first layer height, first layer calibration, and small temperature adjustments has been easier with models that have been successfully printed by others. All I have been printing so far is plain ol' PLA. I have PLA+, PETG, and ePC now, but I'm not ready to move into those filaments yet. I have a backlog of things to print with the PLA first.

Thanks for the info. I like the CR-10s bed size, that is an important factor for me.

I want to get into ABS and Nylon, as they would be better for 'actual parts' I intend to build. PLA will likely serve me well for a while as I get up to speed on things.

Time to keep reading I suppose. Building an enclosure is fine by me, but you lost me with some of that other detail.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks for the info. I like the CR-10s bed size, that is an important factor for me.

I want to get into ABS and Nylon, as they would be better for 'actual parts' I intend to build. PLA will likely serve me well for a while as I get up to speed on things.

Time to keep reading I suppose. Building an enclosure is fine by me, but you lost me with some of that other detail.

What kind of "actual" parts do you intend to print? What will they be used for? What kind of loading will they see? 3D printed parts do great under compression loads but fail more easily under tension where the layers are separated. That said, PETG and PLA+ can be very strong and my serve your needs fine.

I'm going to be researching/developing a process to skin my 3D printed parts in fiberglass or composite fabrics to build a much stronger composite piece. I'm hoping it will work with plastics other than ABS to simply make it easier and less costly to produce these larger composite parts. The research portion really just involves determining which epoxies will work the best to actually bond the 'glass or CF to the 3D printed support structure. The 3D printed support structure will be printed very open and very light such that by itself it would fail. But the 3D structure will be more accurate and stronger than just shaping the core out of foam. It will also allow me to integrate fasteners and metal supports where needed more easily than just foam.

What other details confused you? I can try to clarify those or point you to resources to better understand them.

 

[Chicken]

What kind of "actual" parts do you intend to print? What will they be used for? What kind of loading will they see? 3D printed parts do great under compression loads but fail more easily under tension where the layers are separated. That said, PETG and PLA+ can be very strong and my serve your needs fine.

What other details confused you? I can try to clarify those or point you to resources to better understand them.

I am always making things; wood, metal, plastics...you name it. 3D printing seems like a great way to prototype the metal stuff and potentially replace some of the other materials. EX: bracket I just made to hold a relay in the car. Maybe this is something I could print as an 'actual part'.

"build an enclosure for it, upgrade the extruder, and upgrade the heat bed"
- upgrade extruder and heatbed, what type of price are we talking for these?

I figure at some point it's worth spending the money up front on a better machine vs spending that same money into mods? Tinkering with the machine to improve it is OK, but I'd like to e up and running for PLA pretty quickly.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

I am always making things; wood, metal, plastics...you name it. 3D printing seems like a great way to prototype the metal stuff and potentially replace some of the other materials. EX: bracket I just made to hold a relay in the car. Maybe this is something I could print as an 'actual part'.

"build an enclosure for it, upgrade the extruder, and upgrade the heat bed"
- upgrade extruder and heatbed, what type of price are we talking for these?

I figure at some point it's worth spending the money up front on a better machine vs spending that same money into mods? Tinkering with the machine to improve it is OK, but I'd like to e up and running for PLA pretty quickly.

Just my opinion... but a genuine E3D V6 is worth the money. They're about $105.

CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable modular e3D V6

For an extruder upgrade, this is pretty cool, but untested compared to going with the E3D Titan:

CR-10 NIMBLE SIDEWINDER

The bed heater takes a long time to heat up so a 120V silicone version with a dedicated controller is a good upgrade:

KEENOVO Silicone Heater 310x310mm 750W for Creality CR-10 3D Printer Bed w/ Digital Controller & Pre-made Screw Holes (120V)



The CR-10S will print out of the box, but it can be improved and upgraded over time to make it better.

 

[plc268]

I think I just found my next new build, the Railcore II

Here's an interview with one of its creators and showing the printer in action at the recent MRRF (Midwest reprap festival)

It's about a $1200 build it looks like, but I have a decent amount of the expensive stuff lying around unused waiting to go into a dbot.

This printer is basically a "spare no expense where it matters" build. There's great documentation, detailed BOM, detailed 3d models.

It's corexy based. It's mostly enclosed already, and doesn't look like it'll take much to fully enclose it.

Here's a link to the various configurations and instructions/ bill of materials:

https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii

Also at thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2407174

 

[BoilermakerFan]

I think I just found my next new build, the Railcore II

Here's an interview with one of its creators and showing the printer in action at the recent MRRF (Midwest reprap festival)

It's about a $1200 build it looks like, but I have a decent amount of the expensive stuff lying around unused waiting to go into a dbot.

This printer is basically a "spare no expense where it matters" build. There's great documentation, detailed BOM, detailed 3d models.

It's corexy based. It's mostly enclosed already, and doesn't look like it'll take much to fully enclose it.

Here's a link to the various configurations and instructions/ bill of materials:

https://www.kraegar.com/railcoreii

Also at thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2407174

Ah man, that is sweet. And since it uses 1515, the Y-axis of the RailCore II 300ZL will fit in my enclosure... But I'm bummed the z-Axis jumps from 330mm to 600mm which isn't published yet. I can only fit a 500mm Z-axis.

I need to dig into it more. I'm hoping I can mod the 600mm RailCore II 300ZLT to be a 500mm height.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Also, I don't see the 713maker parts listed in the BOM on their web site... and they're so far behind lilscorpion and I are still on the waiting list for the FT-5 upgrade kits.

 

[plc268]

Also, I don't see the 713maker parts listed in the BOM on their web site... and they're so far behind lilscorpion and I are still on the waiting list for the FT-5 upgrade kits.

As far as I understand it, the guy running the 713maker site just recently moved into a bigger space and trying to get caught up on his backlog. Just yesterday on facebook, he posted this:

"For those who are seeking the metal parts for the Railcore, I have a small update. I am waiting for the newest version of the idler design from Tony and Steve before I can mill more idler mounts. We have a few 250ZL heated beds on hand and also plenty of motor mounts. This upcoming week are we expecting the heated bed stock in a size large enough for the 300ZL beds. As soon as they stock arrives I will mill those beds up and get them ready for shipping. By that time I expect the guys will have the final idler mounts ready for me to convert for milling also. Once we have everything sorted we will add a page to our 713Maker website for the Railcore with inventory controlled "buy it now" buttons to speed thins up for everyone. We will list each item and a kit for each sized printer of the metal parts we produce."

I need to dig into it more. I'm hoping I can mod the 600mm RailCore II 300ZLT to be a 500mm height.

That shouldn't be too difficult to do. Of course you'd need to redo the side panels, and extend the extrusions/lead screws/linear rails.

Or if you have the space, maybe you could modify the enclosure and make it taller?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

As far as I understand it, the guy running the 713maker site just recently moved into a bigger space and trying to get caught up on his backlog. Just yesterday on facebook, he posted this:

"For those who are seeking the metal parts for the Railcore, I have a small update. I am waiting for the newest version of the idler design from Tony and Steve before I can mill more idler mounts. We have a few 250ZL heated beds on hand and also plenty of motor mounts. This upcoming week are we expecting the heated bed stock in a size large enough for the 300ZL beds. As soon as they stock arrives I will mill those beds up and get them ready for shipping. By that time I expect the guys will have the final idler mounts ready for me to convert for milling also. Once we have everything sorted we will add a page to our 713Maker website for the Railcore with inventory controlled "buy it now" buttons to speed thins up for everyone. We will list each item and a kit for each sized printer of the metal parts we produce."



That shouldn't be too difficult to do. Of course you'd need to redo the side panels, and extend the extrusions/lead screws/linear rails.

Or if you have the space, maybe you could modify the enclosure and make it taller?

Very cool. I missed that post on the 713 FB page... of course, I only checked in to the HEVO page to see if I had a reply... but I do like the Railcore since that is basically what I was moving towards with my intended HEVO mods.

I appreciate the tip off. I have to dig into it.


I might have the space. I can move the divider between the upper and lower sections by drilling out some rivets, but the current setup allows me to store the spools vertically with room to put them on rollers to feed down into the print chamber. I know I could put them on their side and just use one of the available stepper drivers off the Duet expansion board to mirror the steps of the extruder stepper motor to unwind the spool... but I could also just build a new, smaller enclosure to sit on top of the main enclosure. I'll wait to see how tall the 600mm Z-axis unit is.

 

[Chicken]

The CR-10S will print out of the box, but it can be improved and upgraded over time to make it better.

Very cool, thanks for the info. I think this is a good place for me to start.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Or if you have the space, maybe you could modify the enclosure and make it taller?

I'm going to go this route... I'm going to build the 600mm version. Once the model is released I'll download it as an IGES file and send it to a supplier for them to quote all of the panels in HDPE, ABS, and a couple other materials. They can convert it to 2020 for me too, but I think that pushes the Y-axis depth past what I have available in the cabinet. IIRC, the printer will just fit with the 1515 frame.


I didn't print anything this week. Too busy with work, but I'm going to start printing the parts from the 300ZL files since all of those parts are used on the 300ZLT, there will just be a few extra parts to print once they're released. I'm going to get my eSun PETG dialed in on the MK2 and print a calibration cube to make sure everything is accurate. I haven't bothered printing a calibration cube yet since nothing I've printed to date has been dimensionally critical.

 

[blatterjr]

Just found this interesting thread (came from the lilscorpion org and reorg) and thought I'd drop in to say hello... been 3D printing for about 4-years on and off.

An architect by trade, i'm a tinkerer and use the Printrbot Play because of its small form factor. That said, I expanded the scale and added a heated bed. Cura is my slicer of choice and I use a combination of AutoCAD, SketchUp, and Fusion 360 for designing what I need to print. I typically print with PLA but have done ABS as well.

My prints span from the frivolous (chess set/doorstop) to my hobbies (RC Car parts/telescope eyepiece adapters) to my workshop (drill press quill adapter for calipers). The energy chain for my CNC router is the largest project and took forever, as you may be able to imagine.

Looking forward to more from this thread.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Just found this interesting thread (came from the lilscorpion org and reorg) and thought I'd drop in to say hello... been 3D printing for about 4-years on and off.

An architect by trade, i'm a tinkerer and use the Printrbot Play because of its small form factor. That said, I expanded the scale and added a heated bed. Cura is my slicer of choice and I use a combination of AutoCAD, SketchUp, and Fusion 360 for designing what I need to print. I typically print with PLA but have done ABS as well.

My prints span from the frivolous (chess set/doorstop) to my hobbies (RC Car parts/telescope eyepiece adapters) to my workshop (drill press quill adapter for calipers). The energy chain for my CNC router is the largest project and took forever, as you may be able to imagine.

Looking forward to more from this thread.

Welcome aboard!

On an OT note, do you have any more pics or info on the Faulkner Residence garage? That garage is awesome!

 

[blatterjr]

On an OT note, do you have any more pics or info on the Faulkner Residence garage? That garage is awesome!

I'll take a look in my archives... did the house for a college buddy of mine who races vintage Porsches; at the time he had three of them, one ready to run and two in process. I don't recall getting but a few of the garage interior, but I'll definitely look.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks. I'd love to see more of it.


Going through my older Field & Stream magazines I found this:


And the site to download the STL files: 3d-printed-fly-reels

I'm going to print one for my cousin and me.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Two more buddies want a 3D printed reel and offered to pay me for them. Well, you can't charge for the reels per the license agreement, so I just told them to pick the colors they want and buy the filament for me. I'm hoping they all pick different colors.

Mine will be purple and black. I'll be starting the process of dialing in the purple PETG on the MK2 this week.

 

[blatterjr]

I'm hoping they all pick different colors.

When people ask me to print something (of any consequence), I ask if they'll acquire the filament. If so, I give them color options and manufacturer options so they don't buy **** that gums up my extruder!

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Oh, I'll send them links to the correct materials after they pick their colors.

 

[plc268]

Two more buddies want a 3D printed reel and offered to pay me for them. Well, you can't charge for the reels per the license agreement, so I just told them to pick the colors they want and buy the filament for me. I'm hoping they all pick different colors.

Mine will be purple and black. I'll be starting the process of dialing in the purple PETG on the MK2 this week.

In cases like that, I charge for materials + 10% for printer time. I feel that's within the spirit of those no sale licenses, because let's face it, plastic and time isn't free.

That said, if the object isn't that big and I'm printing for friends, I wouldn't charge or ask for anything in return.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

In cases like that, I charge for materials + 10% for printer time. I feel that's within the spirit of those no sale licenses, because let's face it, plastic and time isn't free.

That said, if the object isn't that big and I'm printing for friends, I wouldn't charge or ask for anything in return.

I have no idea how long these will take to print.

I haven't has a chance to put the PETG in the printer yet to see how it does. I need to order the silicone socks for the hot end too. I'll grab them when I order a Titan Aero to fix the GT i3 Pro B

 

[Unruh]

I need something. I bought this insert plate with my reward points. I have looked everywhere for the insert rings. I’ve bought different sets that say they fit and they don’t.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-univ...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPyImZups9oCFUsHgQodc1EABw

I found this posted...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2682083

Looks like others have the same problem. Do you take requests like this?