The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[BoilermakerFan]

That's a good idea for the box, I have a lot of extra 1/4" plywood kicking around right now too, but I ended up selling the MP last weekend to put towards a project bike that I'm having delivered tomorrow, a '72 Honda CB500 four.

Ah man! Good call on CB500. You can see I have few old Hondas myself. Be sure to start a project thread once you get going.

Are you going custom, restomod, or full restoration with it?

 

[Geteos]

Ah man! Good call on CB500. You can see I have few old Hondas myself. Be sure to start a project thread once you get going.

Are you going custom, restomod, or full restoration with it?

Yea I started looking through your CX500 build thread this afternoon. I'm envious of your bikes, you have quite the collection!

I haven't decided yet, but I'm leaning towards a restomod. I was going to wait until I finished my garage to buy something, but when my buddy forwarded me the ad I had to snag it as they're a bit harder to come by in Ontario, especially under $1000 (I paid $570cdn delivered to my door). It's going to need a fair bit of work.

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It's my first big project bike. I had a '14 CB500XA and an '09 Honda Ruckus that I modded, but both have been sold for awhile.

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[BoilermakerFan]

Thanks, there should be pics of my whole lot before I started tearing them down in my Killing Time thread too. And I still have a few parts to strip off bikes from my salvage yard.


Ah man, she's a little rough! I can tear down a CB500/550/650 to completely bare in under 2 hours now. My first one took me a day and a half. If you don't know this already, the "Phillips" screws on that bike are NOT Phillips, they are JIS standard, similar to Posi-Drive. A Phillips screwdriver will strip them out. Pick up an impact driver that you hit with a hammer and the #0, #1, #2, and #3 JIS bits. That cost will pay you back in spades in time and frustration.

My CB550 doesn't have a title so it's low on my project list, I'll have to track down a titled frame from a 550 or 650. But I have two CB650 engines so at some point the CB550 will become a hybrid 754cc. The lower case and transmission from the 550 to retain the kick start, the CB650 rods, crank, and head, then 2mm+ CB750 pistons to yield a 754cc SOHC Hemi head with kick start! Adding a C6 Ignition and Mikuni carbs to round it out for apex performance.

Since you're going Restomod, check out Kinetic Motorcycles for their CB500/550/650 exhaust and Cognito Moto for a lot of custom adapter parts. You can upgrade the CB500 front hub to dual disc fairly easily. The rear drum is decent on the 500/550/650. Really no need to swap it to disc unless you plan a lot of track time.

I got into the 3D printing for the motorcycle projects...

I have a lot of work to do on the garage before I can get back to the bikes tho'. No room in the garage to work right now.

 

[Geteos]

I got that tip about the JIS screwdrivers from my buddy who rebuilds CB750s too. I picked up a set from Amazon. I actually should order another set for my work because the linear guides we get from Japan use JIS screws too and people keep stripping out the heads using standard Philips screwdrivers when they go to torque them down to spec.

I'm hoping to be able to get into printing ABS soon (now that I have a garage and don't have to worry about the fumes) so that I can print some parts for the CB. She's missing a lot of brackets and handlebar things.

 

[garandman]

All samples of the 40mm test cubes were printed at the same exact settings on the same spot on the bed. The top and bottom were 2 layers and the sides were just one layer. The layer height was 0.2mm. The infill percentage was 5% for all samples.

For reference, Stratasys (the people who invented FDM) printers typically have densities of 70-98%. In most cases you can build parts nearly the same strength as injection molded ABS, and they are now often used as production parts.

 

[56Safari]

I ended up cancelling my Ender 3 Pro order from the Chinese company the other day and ordered the Ender 5 from Amazon (Comgrow was the amazon seller). It arrived a couple of hours ago and I just got it assembled. Everything was labeled very well, instructions were super clear and it went together in about an hour taking my time and using blue loctite on every screw. The power supply was set to 230V as shipped, so be sure to check that setting and change it to the appropriate input power before firing it up.

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The only potential issue I've noticed so far is that the filament feed tube to comes really close to dipping down and hitting the stop switch for the X-Axis stepper motor when the nozzle is on the opposite corner of the bed from the extruder. It can get closer than shown in the picture, I just didn't capture it perfectly.

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Just started the test print, seems to be printing okay for my first print. It's not perfect, but not bad... The fact that I don't have a stringy mess on my hands I'm considering it a win so far. It didn't start the print in the center either, so I'll need to check that out and figure out why.

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[56Safari]

Two hours in and its still printing fine. I'm surprised the MFG made the test print this large with 100% infill... Its going to a take a long time to finish. I just figured the included test print would be the best way to start and minimize any printing errors.... I'm headed out to work soon so I guess I'll leave it going. Hopefully there's enough filament on the test spool to finish it while I'm at work.

** About to leave for work and its finally printing around 50% infill... just too impatient i suppose

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[BoilermakerFan]

I got that tip about the JIS screwdrivers from my buddy who rebuilds CB750s too. I picked up a set from Amazon. I actually should order another set for my work because the linear guides we get from Japan use JIS screws too and people keep stripping out the heads using standard Philips screwdrivers when they go to torque them down to spec.

I'm hoping to be able to get into printing ABS soon (now that I have a garage and don't have to worry about the fumes) so that I can print some parts for the CB. She's missing a lot of brackets and handlebar things.

I'm going to send you a PM to keep this thread on topic...

For reference, Stratasys (the people who invented FDM) printers typically have densities of 70-98%. In most cases you can build parts nearly the same strength as injection molded ABS, and they are now often used as production parts.

My goal is to find the strongest, lightest infill I can print. I'll be vacuum bagging the parts in CF/epoxy, so I don't need anywhere near 70%+ infill. They'd be too heavy, or rather, not nearly as light as they could be. Which ever infill doesn't fail within 30 minutes of 1500lb static load in all 3 directions (X, Y, Z) is my requirement. That would give me a very strong part capable of even supporting the weight of the motorcycle if it were to fall over. It's not hyper scientific, but I know the parts will be strong enough for my application.

I ended up cancelling my Ender 3 Pro order from the Chinese company the other day and ordered the Ender 5 from Amazon (Comgrow was the amazon seller). It arrived a couple of hours ago and I just got it assembled. Everything was labeled very well, instructions were super clear and it went together in about an hour taking my time and using blue loctite on every screw. The power supply was set to 230V as shipped, so be sure to check that setting and change it to the appropriate input power before firing it up.

Nice! I'm hoping to order mine and some upgrade accessories in a couple weeks. Looking at a Monoprice Select Mini too, just for it's super small size.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Oh, I printed a few more test cubes...

One 3D Honeycomb at 7.5% infill, three Gyroid at 7.5% infill so I can test all 3 axis, and three Gyroid at 10% infill for the same 3 axis tests. The sides are still at 1 layer, so depending on the results, I may print another set or two with 3 layers for the sides, top, and bottom at 10% and 15%...

 

[56Safari]

[/QUOTE] Nice! I'm hoping to order mine and some upgrade accessories in a couple weeks. Looking at a Monoprice Select Mini too, just for it's super small size.[/QUOTE]


Cool, what upgrades are you thinking about doing?

I’m just getting into all this, so I’m trying to figure out what will work best for me. I definitely want to be able to make parts I can use on cars that can withstand heat/cold, vibration and a little bit of load... . Brackets for holding odd and ends in vehicle, maybe custom trim pieces, etc. I ordered some of the carbon fiber reinforced filament, figure I’ll give it a shot once I get a few successful prints completed.



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[BoilermakerFan]

Cool, what upgrades are you thinking about doing?

I’m just getting into all this, so I’m trying to figure out what will work best for me. I definitely want to be able to make parts I can use on cars that can withstand heat/cold, vibration and a little bit of load... . Brackets for holding odd and ends in vehicle, maybe custom trim pieces, etc. I ordered some of the carbon fiber reinforced filament, figure I’ll give it a shot once I get a few successful prints completed.



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Order a hardened nozzle for the CF...

Look into PLA+. I think it will do a lot of what you want... then PETG, CF-PETG, and ePC.

Planned upgrades for the Ender 5: PE bed, glass bed, BondTech extruder, Nochtua fans on all locations, better part cooling fan/duct, probably a new hot end, Duet WiFi, stepper motor dampers, and LED lighting are the first mods on the list. I'm sure there will be more as the printer gets out and more guys come up with upgrades.

Multi-material is an option I'm considering on the E5 too.

I'll probably use the stock E5 extruder and board to upgrade the POS GT i3 ProB. Hopefully it will work.


Here are my next victims:

 

[56Safari]

Awesome, thanks man... I’m going to start digging into all that in the morning... looking forward to the strength test results... for remember taking an intro to civil engineering class in college and crushing lots of bridges made from balsa wood.. it was a blast


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[BoilermakerFan]

You're welcome. I'm crushing the cubes tomorrow over lunch.

I'm printing a Fortnite Llama Cowbell in GITD filament tomorrow for my son. Then Tuesday I'll print out the next wave of cubes for testing based on my results from tomorrow.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

And so the Fortnite Llama Cowbell begins...

And 2-1/2 hours later it's 3% into the print:

Started the print at 7:30am local time. It should be done a little before 10pm.

 

[56Safari]

Test print came out okay, not perfect but not bad..There's some small blemishes here and there... I'm going to fire up some basic Schaller style toolbox organizers today and see how they come out.

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[56Safari]

Started the schaller style toolbins.. the bottom 2 layers were under extruded, but I finally got it dialed in okay. The corners still need some work, I need to figure out what settings to tweak there... I'm going to print flat layers for my next print to see how well I can tweak the settings and get the filament to lay down.

I also accidentally left infill on 20%, so once walls started building around the outside they're a little hollow around the chamfer.. They just stopped infilling now that the walls are building vertically.

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[BoilermakerFan]

You'll just need to calibrate the extruder.

You have to adjust the mm of filament per revolution...

Heat up the nozzle, mark the filament 20mm or 30mm above the hot end. Then tell the extruder to run that distance. Measure how much was actually run through and correct the extruder "multiplier" or mm/rev.

There are vids on YouTube that show/explain it better.

 

[brawls43]

Love this thread! You guys are inspiring me to finally build a printer I bought through a kickstarter a couple years ago. Unfortunately kids came before the printer did, so I haven't taken the time to assemble it. Kind of wish I hadn't bought it, and could just get an off the shelf one now.

 

[56Safari]

Awesome, I just found this video which covers a variety of baseline tests for the ender 3. Everything should translate over, so I'm going to start running these tests after this print finishes.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Love this thread! You guys are inspiring me to finally build a printer I bought through a kickstarter a couple years ago. Unfortunately kids came before the printer did, so I haven't taken the time to assemble it. Kind of wish I hadn't bought it, and could just get an off the shelf one now.

Which printer is it?

Building it will give you a better understanding of it...

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Awesome, I just found this video which covers a variety of baseline tests for the ender 3. Everything should translate over, so I'm going to start running these tests after this print finishes.

A lot of the Ender3 or CR10 kods/upgrades will work on the 5 too.

Edit: I like his videos and he has an Ender 5 now too, so subscribe and he'll post updates on his E5.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

The results of latest batch of tests are in:

The 7.5% 3D honeycomb: 94psi! It's an exponential improvement in strength, if it was linear it would have failed at 79psi.

The 7.5% Gyroid: Z-axis compression - 66psi which was a perfectly linear increase.

7.5% Gyroid in the Y-axis - 44psi

7.5% Gyroid in the X-axis - 45psi

I'm not surprised since I was crushing down on a 1 layer thick top and bottom... but the sides are roughly 2/3 as strong.


The 10% Gyroid in the Z-axis - 97psi which is again nearly perfectly linear.

10% Gyroid in the Y-axis - 72psi

10% Gyroid in the X-axis - 63 psi (but the corner was damaged when I removed the sample so it had a weakness at the apex of the stresses... I'm surprised it went that high.

Sides on the 10% mirrored the 7.5%... roughly 2/3 as strong.


The aftermath of destruction:

So, can you guys guess what I'm going to test next?


At least after this thing is done printing:

8-1/2 hours in and it's only a 1/3 through the Gcode.

 

[56Safari]

My schaller style toolbox bins came out okay. There was a fair amount of stringing on the inside (I think it's partially due to bed leveling, I'm going to re level it again). Most of it scraped off easily, they still stack and are pretty strong... I tried to break them by twisting them apart and they didn't budge. I'm going to start some of the calibration prints tonight, hopefully I will dial the printer in sometime tomorrow and start on some more cubes.

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[BoilermakerFan]

There was a fair amount of stringing on the inside (I think it's partially due to bed leveling, I'm going to re level it again).

Stringing usually isn't caused by the bed being out of level... it's usually caused by running the nozzle too hot or not enough retraction before it moves without extruding.

I'm running my nozzle at 215degC for my PLA. This usually is fine and gives me minimal stringing, but stronger parts due to better layer adhesion. However, the GITD green is stringier at this temp.





14 Hours, 27 Minutes later...

I'm still working on removing the supports... the slicer went a little crazy with supports...

 

[plc268]

I always found the concern about stringing to be overblown. It's slightly annoying, sure, but one blast with a heatgun rids most of the strings.

If I only ever printed with the same filaments, I'd tune it out.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

It's probably easiest to "tune" it out by adjusting the nozzle temp...

 

[56Safari]

I noticed the outer ring on the first layer didn’t stick on the bed in the right rear corner before it printed (not shown in photo)... if you look at the print on the schaller bins, most of the stringing takes place between the right front and the right rear corner... I’m not disagreeing, but I think I should re-level it first.. because I think the outer ring should’ve printed equally at all four corners if it was leveled properly


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[brawls43]

It was a Reach 3D printer: https://reach3dprinters.com/

At the time I liked the idea of being able to swap extruder head for other heads like lasers or dremels for engraving. Just got the directions re-printed today. With all the modifying out there, I'm sure building it will help give me a better understanding of how it works.

 

[Kevin54]

With 3D printing, how strong are the parts after printing? The reason I ask is that I need 40 clips made for the side trim on momma's Olds. You can't buy the clips anywhere. I'm just wondering if 3D printing would be a way to go, and if so, would anyone be interested in giving it a shot?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

It was a Reach 3D printer: https://reach3dprinters.com/

At the time I liked the idea of being able to swap extruder head for other heads like lasers or dremels for engraving. Just got the directions re-printed today. With all the modifying out there, I'm sure building it will help give me a better understanding of how it works.

It's nice to see they're still in business too!

Did you get the laser in the KS campaign? I saw they no longer sell it and have warnings.

In reality, you can mod any 3D printer to use a laser etcher head. It's one of the mods I'll be doing on one of mine in the future.

I have an old Sears branded flex cable Dremel so the handle that holds the bit is very light. Never thought about modding a printer to be an engraver until now. Cheers!

 

[BoilermakerFan]

With 3D printing, how strong are the parts after printing? The reason I ask is that I need 40 clips made for the side trim on momma's Olds. You can't buy the clips anywhere. I'm just wondering if 3D printing would be a way to go, and if so, would anyone be interested in giving it a shot?

Well, I've been testing that, but for your application the clips would be printed at 100% fill so they would be solid. You'll probably want a little flex to the clip, so PC would probably be the best material to print them with. ABS might work too..

 

[Kevin54]

Well, I've been testing that, but for your application the clips would be printed at 100% fill so they would be solid. You'll probably want a little flex to the clip, so PC would probably be the best material to print them with. ABS might work too..

If I sent you a sample clip, and a piece of the trim, would you be interested? And would you need a drawing, or can you measure it up? I'd make it worth your while....not asking for a freebie.

Here is a link to what they look like https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-NOS-Fen...lips-10pc-AP/123569760994?hash=item1cc554eae2

 

[BoilermakerFan]

If I sent you a sample clip, and a piece of the trim, would you be interested? And would you need a drawing, or can you measure it up? I'd make it worth your while....not asking for a freebie.

Here is a link to what they look like https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-NOS-Fen...lips-10pc-AP/123569760994?hash=item1cc554eae2

Sent you a PM...

Have a link to a pic of the land yacht?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

So, can you guys guess what I'm going to test next?

You guys are no fun...


I've swapped out the GITD PLA back to black PLA. I'm going to print more cubes... this time at 10% and 15% 3D honeycomb with 3 layers for the sides, top, and bottom. I'm hoping the 10% will withstand 125psi on all axis...

I'm going to be buying a 10T Dake or Baileigh bench top press for my garage and I'll test the cubes that survive the air cylinder on the press this summer.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

3D Printer Nerd's review of the RailCore II 300ZL:

Railcore II 300ZL Project R3D 3D Printer Kit Review

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Tonight I was sidetracked watching more YouTube videos...

But this is cool. I had seen a few vids of guys using the Palette+ and saw reference to the Palette 2.

Hands On The Mosaic Palette 2 - Multi-Material Printing for Your 3D Printer

https://www.mosaicmfg.com/products/palette-2

I'm definitely keeping an eye on the Palette 2 Pro. The extra $200 gets you the extended warranty included so that's a $99 adder on the regular P2, but the all metal fuser and faster speed is the main reason I would go Pro.

In Joel's video they talk about Canvas which supports the Palette products.

http://canvas3d.io

The software is free and supports single materials plus it has the profile for the Prusa Mk2 so I dragged the 40mm cube to it. No 3D HC infill so i picked "organic" for the infill; 3 layers for the thickness of the top, bottom, and sides; and 10% infill. I sliced it and downloaded the Gcode. I'll run that file after i finish printing my current cubes. Interested to see how it performs since the print time is 1 hour and 2 minutes vs. the 90 minutes for the 10% 3D HC cubes I'm doing now.



And my first cube of the new batch turned out amazing! Again, the 3D HC at 10% and all exterior "walls" are 3 layers. This thing feels super strong. It feels twice as strong as the 7.5% previous test cube.

I need to print two more tomorrow then they go under the crusher.

 

[56Safari]

You guys are no fun...
I'm going to be buying a 10T Dake or Baileigh bench top press for my garage and I'll test the cubes that survive the air cylinder on the press this summer.

I'd probably avoid the Baileigh press if you're planning to order from them directly. I placed an order with them a few months ago, they refunded my credit card and cancelled the order and never communicated anything to me about it. I called them 4 times, left voicemails each time with different people and no one ever called me back. I also submitted my concerns via their web interface, and received ZERO response.

I'm not saying their equipment is that bad ( I own a few pieces of their equipment Magnetic sheet metal brake, *********** shrinker/stretcher, and some various dies). I'm just glad I've never had to use their warranty, I can't imagine how difficult that would be if I had that much trouble trying to give them my money.

 

[56Safari]

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a few upgrades for the ender 5 today so I can print some of the higher temp stuff without issues.

Micro Swiss all metal hot end
Bondtech extruder
glass bed - looking at this one, its 10mm shorter on the x/y axis than my current bed but I think that will be okay. https://www.amazon.com/Wisamic-Borosilicate-235x235x4mm-Creality-Printer/dp/B07M9VJG18/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1547665262&sr=1-5&keywords=wisamic+borosilicate+glass

 

[BoilermakerFan]

I'd probably avoid the Baileigh press if you're planning to order from them directly. I placed an order with them a few months ago, they refunded my credit card and cancelled the order and never communicated anything to me about it. I called them 4 times, left voicemails each time with different people and no one ever called me back. I also submitted my concerns via their web interface, and received ZERO response.

I'm not saying their equipment is that bad ( I own a few pieces of their equipment Magnetic sheet metal brake, *********** shrinker/stretcher, and some various dies). I'm just glad I've never had to use their warranty, I can't imagine how difficult that would be if I had that much trouble trying to give them my money.

I've been leaning towards the Dake anyway. It's cheaper by about $50 and the upper cylinder can be moved. The table is also a little nicer.

Interesting about your experience with Baileigh. The Uni where I taught as adjunct had a lot of Baileigh equipment and it all worked very well.

Thinking about pulling the trigger on a few upgrades for the ender 5 today so I can print some of the higher temp stuff without issues.

Micro Swiss all metal hot end
Bondtech extruder
glass bed - looking at this one, its 10mm shorter on the x/y axis than my current bed but I think that will be okay. https://www.amazon.com/Wisamic-Borosilicate-235x235x4mm-Creality-Printer/dp/B07M9VJG18/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1547665262&sr=1-5&keywords=wisamic+borosilicate+glass

Personally, I'd spend the extra coin and get the genuine Creality3D glass bed so you don't lose any print volume and it fits right off the bat.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

I started to print a second test cube today, but then I got the bug to just go test the first sample.

So here are the results:

My air compressor runs to 135psi, but I have some pressure drop in the airline.

My first test in the Z-axis:

I wasn't happy that I couldn't take it all the way to 125psi... I ran out of pressure. So I hooked up my air gun and bled the tank to kick on the compressor again...

Second test was the X-axis:

A little better, but it still wouldn't reach 125psi. So the for the Y-axis test I bled the pressure down, then swapped the line back to the cylinder and quickly cranked up the regulator to see if it would creep up to 125psi.


The Y-axis:

The 120psi is 1507 pounds of force; the 122psi is 1532 pounds of force; and the 125psi is 1570 pounds.

So my goal of at least 1500 pounds was achieved. I will test to see what it's failure force is once I have that capability.

For now it's nice to know that 10% infill with 3 layers meets my goal though!