The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[PelicanPines]

Creality responded to my warranty on the failed GX16-5 cable on my CR-10 V3. It's on it's way. Not sure if it's coming from China or where...

1320Stang... YES you should plan on putting all your electronics outside the enclosure. Power supplies do NOT like heat and neither does the screen. It's one of the main reasons I went with a CR-10 instead of an Ender 3... I plan on building a "tent enclosure".

 

[1320stang]

Aww heck, they're nothing special, I got them from Thingiverse.

I'm a CAD draftsman by trade (25+ years, learned on release 9), but I am struggling with Fusion 360 and TinkerCAD. There don't seem to be enough tools for me

 

[Firebrick43]

Aww heck, they're nothing special, I got them from Thingiverse.

I'm a CAD draftsman by trade (25+ years, learned on release 9), but I am struggling with Fusion 360 and TinkerCAD. There don't seem to be enough tools for me

I hear you. I have been using auto card for the same time and hated fusion 360. Gave up on it for nearly a year. Then had one week of crappy winter weather I designed a large project and did so by watching tutorial after tutorial on YouTube. Now I really like it.

 

[Keyblazer]

Hoping I can get some input on a problem I’m having.
Probably cos I’m a 60 year old noob!
So I wanted to make a battery storage wall mount for my AC Delco electric wrenches.
Batteries look like this....

Took some dimensions off the charger female, and built this single model, in Fusion 360, which I then built into a double holder as I have 5 batteries.

So far so good...
Exported it into STL file, opened it in Cura, then sliced it.

When I tried to print it, it basically tried to print it as a sold piece...
Am I doing something wrong?
I think I set the wall thickness in Cura to 1.2mm.
Do I need to make the model a shell with wall thicknesses or does Cura figure it out for you?

 

[Darby9]

Cura should figure that out for you. If you look under your Infill Density settings (might have to change from "Recommended" to the more detailed "Custom" set of options), I'd use 30-40%.

You can also check your Wall Thickness settings under the Shell settings--2-4 wall lines should work ok.

 

[loganb]

@Keyblazer-I've never used Cura(Prusaslicer so far) but it should've done fine with what I see based on how Prusa works, if you want someone else to give it a shot I'll try it on PrusaSlicer, you can compress the .stl into a .zip folder and post it here or PM me and I'll send you an email address. I've printed some similar battery holders for Milwaukee M12 with 10% infill and 2 or 3 perimeters and they worked great

Below is something off my printer today...dust shroud for a Bosch router to use while cutting dovetails. Due to having a guide bushing in you can't **** out from around the tool and with a clockwise rotating bit at chest height it likes to shoot the sawdust straight at you so hoping this does a good job of collecting it!

View media item 111601

 

[shortykorte]

Aww heck, they're nothing special, I got them from Thingiverse.



I'm a CAD draftsman by trade (25+ years, learned on release 9), but I am struggling with Fusion 360 and TinkerCAD. There don't seem to be enough tools for me

I too come from a CAD background. Played a little with 3D in Microstation. The thing that I’m coming to grips with Fusion is switching back an forth between 2D and 3D. Another is drawing components as independent objects then joining them in a new file. Makes sense but not how I learned CAD. I guess practice practice practice.


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[Michael_in_DE]

I designed these in Onshape, edited in Catia.

 

[Craftfab]

I designed these in Onshape, edited in Catia.

This is genius. I have been reorganization my box this weekend and trying to find better space management. Will have to try designing and printing one of these on my prusa.

 

[txvwnut]

Hoping I can get some input on a problem I’m having.
Probably cos I’m a 60 year old noob!
So I wanted to make a battery storage wall mount for my AC Delco electric wrenches.
Batteries look like this....

Took some dimensions off the charger female, and built this single model, in Fusion 360, which I then built into a double holder as I have 5 batteries.

So far so good...
Exported it into STL file, opened it in Cura, then sliced it.

When I tried to print it, it basically tried to print it as a sold piece...
Am I doing something wrong?
I think I set the wall thickness in Cura to 1.2mm.
Do I need to make the model a shell with wall thicknesses or does Cura figure it out for you?

Was this drawn as a 3D model? If it was drawn as a 2D then converted to STL Cura won’t recognize the “extrusion” of the middle and thinks it’s a solid piece.

 

[Keyblazer]

Mmm, thanks for the input.
I drew it as 2d model in plan view, plotting out the dimensions, then extruded, Yes.
Then exported it in STL.
Spent some time looking at it yesterday, because Cura was saying there were some extraneous surfaces.
The battery receivers look fine in Cura, but the mounting block doesn’t, and that was what was printing solid with no shell.
Found some oddities around the mounting holes and top of the back block, that I think I cured.
Will try again today.

In the meantime, I printed this cute vase for my girl, but a rose in it, and gave it to her for our Anniversary!
Silk Coffee Gold PLA.
She loved it!

 

[Keyblazer]

I think I might have got it.
I found some odd surfaces in the CAD model, cleaned them up amd exported in SLI, sliced in Cura and its printing now and looking good.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Apologies in advance if this is the wrong place to post this, but I need advice for a special project.

To begin with, I understand what 3-D printing is, but have zero knowledge of how to take an item from concept to final piece. I also have zero interest in "getting into" 3-D printing because quite frankly, it's beyond my skill sets, beyond my financial status at this time, and beyond my interest level and/or need to jump into it.

Basically what I am looking at is a one off item which I think in theory should be able to be easily created by someone with the abilities. I know this is going to sound weird, but I am looking at having a hair comb reproduced (photo attached). It does have some small raised lettering on the sides which I would also like reproduced in the final product. I have a few photographs, and exact measurements...but what I don't have is the original item in hand. It is in the possession of a museum and they absolutely will not allow the comb to be touched, moved, or taken somewhere for scanning or anything like that.

So my question now becomes, is this something that can be done? And if so, where do I turn to get artwork generated that can be used by a 3-D printer so I can have a finalized product made?

 

[txvwnut]

If you can go back to the museum and take a picture of it that you can overlay a grid on it to get scale measurements. From there you could have someone duplicate it in a cad program then onto a production environment.

 

[loganb]

Apologies in advance if this is the wrong place to post this, but I need advice for a special project.

To begin with, I understand what 3-D printing is, but have zero knowledge of how to take an item from concept to final piece. I also have zero interest in "getting into" 3-D printing because quite frankly, it's beyond my skill sets, beyond my financial status at this time, and beyond my interest level and/or need to jump into it.

Basically what I am looking at is a one off item which I think in theory should be able to be easily created by someone with the abilities. I know this is going to sound weird, but I am looking at having a hair comb reproduced (photo attached). It does have some small raised lettering on the sides which I would also like reproduced in the final product. I have a few photographs, and exact measurements...but what I don't have is the original item in hand. It is in the possession of a museum and they absolutely will not allow the comb to be touched, moved, or taken somewhere for scanning or anything like that.

So my question now becomes, is this something that can be done? And if so, where do I turn to get artwork generated that can be used by a 3-D printer so I can have a finalized product made?

Do you want a reproduction for a memento/keepsake/personal reason or for functional use? I'm not sure a 3d printed comb will function too well longer term as the flex back and forth will likely cause the tines to break.


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[39 LaSalle]

If you can go back to the museum and take a picture of it that you can overlay a grid on it to get scale measurements. From there you could have someone duplicate it in a cad program then onto a production environment.

Actually, I have a 2D (non-photographic) TIF image with precise measurements. I just don't know how or who to get that transformed to a CAD format.

 

[39 LaSalle]

Do you want a reproduction for a memento/keepsake/personal reason or for functional use? I'm not sure a 3d printed comb will function too well longer term as the flex back and forth will likely cause the tines to break.

My plan is to use the 3-D print to be a prototype which I can submit to someone to make a mold from. I could theoretically even just cast it in silicone and make a resin copy which may or may not work, or I may even look into having some injection molded. Unfortunately, without something "real" in my hand, I'm not going able to progress much further than I have for the last 8 years on this idea. So right now I'm just exploring possibilities, costs, etc.

 

[shortykorte]

LaSalle Fusion 360 has a function to do what you want. I believe Sketchup also. You might check if you have a local Makers Space and see if someone would draw and print it. Next would check for a local or internet 3D print company. If the high school has 3D printers, might be able to get it done as a school project.


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[39 LaSalle]

LaSalle Fusion 360 has a function to do what you want. I believe Sketchup also. You might check if you have a local Makers Space and see if someone would draw and print it. Next would check for a local or internet 3D print company. If the high school has 3D printers, might be able to get it done as a school project.


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Thanks for the input...but I think I have to stop and walk it back a bit. I am a complete Luddite when it comes to this sort of thing. You're kinda talking in a language that I don't understand. Back to my original post, I am decidedly NOT into 3D printing. I built and/or restore old, antique stuff...cars, tools, whatever. What I do have is a concept, artwork, and dimensions. Now I'm just looking to find a way to turn that all into a solid, in-hand object. Fully expecting I will have to pay someone to make that happen.

From what I can gather, you are referencing software that I could use to generate artwork. The problem is I have no time, interest, or patience at this point to be learning software on how to create 3D artwork.

I have 2D artwork of the comb in Photoshop. I just don't know where to go with it from here. Sounds like I'm going to have to find a 3D print company that can do what I want. Given the situation in the world today with shutdowns, pandemics, social unrest, I don't really think messing with a high school is a viable option at this time.

Again, thanks for your input.

 

[Forgottonia]

A buddy of mine was telling me about 3D concrete printing to build walls, buildings, etc. (I guess it belongs in this thread, right?) I thought it was pretty cool.

Here are some youtubes of different 3D concrete printer projects:

L-shaped wall: LINK

Backyard castle playhouse: LINK

A house: LINK

 

[RogueFab]

A buddy of mine was telling me about 3D concrete printing to build walls, buildings, etc. (I guess it belongs in this thread, right?) I thought it was pretty cool.

Here are some youtubes of different 3D concrete printer projects:

L-shaped wall: LINK

Backyard castle playhouse: LINK

A house: LINK

Holy cow is that interesting. That guys walking around putting in the little "wire staple" bridges sure didn't look to be breaking a sweat!

 

[Darby9]

I have 2D artwork of the comb in Photoshop. I just don't know where to go with it from here. Sounds like I'm going to have to find a 3D print company that can do what I want...

For details that fine, you'll need to print that on a resin-based printer. There are plenty of contract places that have state of the art machines that will print qty: 1 of something that size for a set minimum. First step is getting somebody to turn your 2D into a 3D file that can be exported in the "STL" format that a 3D printer can use. Sent you a PM.

 

[techieman33]

A buddy of mine was telling me about 3D concrete printing to build walls, buildings, etc. (I guess it belongs in this thread, right?) I thought it was pretty cool.

Here are some youtubes of different 3D concrete printer projects:

L-shaped wall: LINK

Backyard castle playhouse: LINK

A house: LINK

That's cool, but you can do chocolate now.

 

[californiamilleghia]

Years ago I was at a trade show and some students from the local school built a 3D printer to print wax on cloth and later "tie dye" the cloth , after the ink dries you wash the cloth in hot water to take off the wax.

I think the old way of doing this is Balik printing ,

Just something to play with if you want to make some custom shirts for the family.....

 

[Firebrick43]

Apologies in advance if this is the wrong place to post this, but I need advice for a special project.

To begin with, I understand what 3-D printing is, but have zero knowledge of how to take an item from concept to final piece. I also have zero interest in "getting into" 3-D printing because quite frankly, it's beyond my skill sets, beyond my financial status at this time, and beyond my interest level and/or need to jump into it.

Basically what I am looking at is a one off item which I think in theory should be able to be easily created by someone with the abilities. I know this is going to sound weird, but I am looking at having a hair comb reproduced (photo attached). It does have some small raised lettering on the sides which I would also like reproduced in the final product. I have a few photographs, and exact measurements...but what I don't have is the original item in hand. It is in the possession of a museum and they absolutely will not allow the comb to be touched, moved, or taken somewhere for scanning or anything like that.

So my question now becomes, is this something that can be done? And if so, where do I turn to get artwork generated that can be used by a 3-D printer so I can have a finalized product made?

Do you want to actually use it????. Some FFM printers can do that fine of printing, I know a rail core could.

see 12.22
I don't know if you could do abs at .02 layer height but if you could, a few minutes in an acetone chamber (paint can with some paper towel held to the walls with magnets) it would look molded.

More resin printers can. Issue is you probably would not be able to daily use it. 3d printed parts with fine features are not very strong except for nylons and polycarbonates.

 

[white91formula]

Had my extruder cable break 24hrs into this Print. Not sure what happened.

 

[PelicanPines]

Purchased the Creality CR10 V3 "Belt Tensioners" for X and Y directly from Creality. They arrived and I am slightly disappointed.

Y Tensioner - the button head screw that is used to tighten/loosen the belt is 8mm TOO short. The nylon locknut also does not engage on the 8mm button head bolt holding the bearings (it should be 5mm longer)

X Tensioner - the button head screw to tighten/loosen the belt is again 8mm too short.

So... the tensioners are great... If you can provide some "new properly sized" hardware.

 

[txvwnut]

Printed up some trays to hold some LED strip for an under cabinet lighting.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Printed up some trays to hold come LED strip for an under cabinet lighting.

Nice!

I'm getting ready to do some kitchen work and was just discussing using this type light under the cabinets. Any more suggestions on this method?

 

[txvwnut]

Nice!

I'm getting ready to do some kitchen work and was just discussing using this type light under the cabinets. Any more suggestions on this method?

If you go the same route I went use 22 or 24ga wire. I did 18ga as it has more insulation than the smaller gauge wire and I felt I wanted more, but that relates to more weight on the strip where the wires are attached and pulls on the end of the strip. A wire staple helps correct this but a lighter gauge wire might not be an issue. Mine are 24volt led’s as I want to put a light on the gantry of my printer and it’s power supply is 24 volts.

 

[loganb]

If you go the same route I went use 22 or 24ga wire. I did 18ga as it has more insulation than the smaller gauge wire and I felt I wanted more, but that relates to more weight on the strip where the wires are attached and pulls on the end of the strip. A wire staple helps correct this but a lighter gauge wire might not be an issue. Mine are 24volt led’s as I want to put a light on the gantry of my printer and it’s power supply is 24 volts.

Do as was done here and solder the connections, don't use the "solderless" type advertised...they don't work nearly as well. Did my last kitchen in solderless to begin with, consistent issues with flickering and dim lights as the run went farther away from power supply. Started soldering them and all issues went away

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[loganb]

Couple of quick projects here. Both printed in Overture PLA, either 5 or 10% gyroid infill on a Prusa MK3S, the nailset holder is 4" x 6" x 1/2" tall, the pick set is 4" x 8" x 1/2". Modeled in Solidworks, pretty happy with them, future versions for other tool sets will probably get some pockets for magnets in the bottom to keep the tray from sliding around in the drawer as much

 

[Horror Business]

Those trays look great! I dig the red.

 

[loganb]

Those trays look great! I dig the red.

Thanks! I'll be honest they're red because it was the newest color I had that I hadn't used before and wanted to see how it looked...but really liking it and think I may use it for all of my tool trays! The CAD side for each surprised me with how quick they were, total I've got 30 minutes in both so this may become a new lunch time "break" for me to try and get a few done a week for the misc "stuff" that floats everywhere

 

[ddawg16]

My son bought the Ender 3......he has gone through 2 rolls in 2 weeks.
Right now it's making a prototype bracket for my jeep brakes....just to test fit

 

[Outlander]

My son bought the Ender 3......he has gone through 2 rolls in 2 weeks.
Right now it's making a prototype bracket for my jeep brakes....just to test fit

This is exactly where it all started. I was doing rapid prototyping 25 years ago, thanks to working in A&D. Now you can do it at home (for a fraction of the effort and cost)!

 

[PelicanPines]

My CR10-V3 has been going strong for a week now. It's been printing every waking hour since. It's in a room about as far from where I sleep as humanly possible and I need to build trust with it before I print at night.

Printed:
Refrigerator organizer for 6 bottles of Insulin (printed twice)
Spool roller with skate bearings
Webcam articulating mount
Several "dodads" to impress my Mrs

If I had room... I would be one of those crazy people with a print farm.

 

[Outlander]

My CR10-V3 has been going strong for a week now. It's been printing every waking hour since. It's in a room about as far from where I sleep as humanly possible and I need to build trust with it before I print at night.

Printed:
Refrigerator organizer for 6 bottles of Insulin (printed twice)
Spool roller with skate bearings
Webcam articulating mount
Several "dodads" to impress my Mrs

If I had room... I would be one of those crazy people with a print farm.

I'm still tweaking settings. After many "functional" items for electronics hobby, I printed the calibration block. Now on to adjusting settings so I can print dimensionally (more) accurate pieces.

Not quite ready for a print farm.....definitely ready to improve the setup in the workshop though!

 

[PelicanPines]

I'm still tweaking settings. After many "functional" items for electronics hobby, I printed the calibration block. Now on to adjusting settings so I can print dimensionally (more) accurate pieces.

Not quite ready for a print farm.....definitely ready to improve the setup in the workshop though!

My CR10 arrived from Creality with a bad "Bed Cable" (it's soldered on). The Connector to the controller was bad. Weirdest thing I ever saw... Creality offered to replace the cable and bed... I jumped on the offer... it took 3 WEEKS to arrive from China. The V3 uses a 5 pin connector and is not for sale yet "on it's own" or I would have just snagged one. Even for the $100 price tag. I will fix the bad connector and have a spare.

In the 3 weeks WAITING for the cable... I spent all my time "Squaring" the frame and dual Z screws with an anti-backlash setup. Damn those screws holding the Z screw are TINY... 2mm and in the HARDEST place to get to. I also redid the bed rollers... I had ONE flat spot from being shipped over tightened.

It printed perfectly from the first print. I did spend a FULL HOUR leveling it with a sheet of paper. Over the week... I have not had to adjust it once.

HOWEVER... clean your bed BEFORE every print. I had two or three failed "starts" due to finger print oil.

 

[Outlander]

@PelicanPines I have a routine between prints. I clean every time with alcohol and a micro-fibre cloth. So far no issues sticking or releasing. I do remove the flexible mat every time and work on the bench. I return to home and pre-heat before every print.

I don't have my calibration cube dimensions with me, my quick measurements told me I had work to do on one axis.