vpd66
Well-known member
Do you have a glass bed? Are you using anything to help bed adhesion?
The Everything 3D Printer Thread
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Bodj Built
Well-known member
I use SW for my 3d drawings, save as .3mf (3d manufacturing file), and then I can open it in my slicer (Flashprint since I use a Flashforge Adventure 3 Lite)
ddawg16
Well-known member
We have been using painters tape.
We found the cheap **** from HF works better. It's not as sticky, but sticks well enough for the parts to stay.
My bracket came out perfect
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PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Glass bed, it's textured a bit... it says "Creality" on it. I have NOT had to use anything... I have purple gluestick If I ever run into issues.
vpd66
Well-known member
I have the same glass bed but some of the texture came off right in the middle so I flipped it over and used the smooth glass side. I have terrible luck with prints sticking without something to help them. I did a test and tried sugar water, hair spray, stick glue (cheap stuff from grocery store), and corn syrup. I found stick glue (could be that I had some cheap stuff) didn't work very good at all. Sugar water and hair spray were about the same. If you really want something to stick then get some corn syrup! You have to take your bed plate off the printer and put it under running water for it to release. I've tried it with PETG and PLA and it works great. if I have a small print or one where I don't think bed adhesion will be a problem I'll grab the hair spray. On tricky parts I go to the corn syrup.
shortykorte
Well-known member
I assume you wait for the corn syrup to dry?
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal
vpd66
Well-known member
Nope, I usually just apply it with my finger has the bed heats up before the print. I learned the thinner you can spread it the better it releases. A $4 bottle should last for years. I have to give credit to my girlfriend for suggesting it. I was mixing up some sugar water one day and she said "why don't you just use corn syrup?". So after about a week of thinking about it I decided to give it a try and it works great.
Bessy
Well-known member
Finally dedicated some hours to the printer this weekend (had some issues with a filament changeover and got discouraged for a bit) life has kindof been in the way (excuses, I know) but I'm back at it. Churning out some toothpaste squeezers today for the family and wondering about making battery holders for my DeWalt 20v stuff. Anyone have a (preferably Canadian) link to a good PLA match to the DeWalt yellow?
Wrench racks are also in my future, provided I take some measurements to verify fitment in my craftsman 26 top box.
Sent from my BE2026 using Tapatalk
Wrench racks are also in my future, provided I take some measurements to verify fitment in my craftsman 26 top box.
Sent from my BE2026 using Tapatalk
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white91formula
Well-known member
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
9 Hour Silk PLA print... looks pretty good. Suggested 235 degrees... but my test cube at that temp was way over extruded. I did this owl at 210. I figure 220 might be better.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I tried the "Glue Stick" on the glass... it was an absolute failure. After cleaning my bed with soap, water with a scrub brush... I switched to Aqua Net Extra Hold unscented hair spray... OMG it's crazy sticky now... no lift, no warp. Beware... you will have to wait to remove your item... the glass has to totally cool.
My latest print...
My latest print...
txvwnut
Well-known member
Those handles are slick Pines.
Jehannum
Well-known member
Made a tone wheel for a friend's 240Z. He's running an 800HP 2JZGTE in it, and wants to calculate the slip between front and rear axles. It's printed in ABS, has 12 triggers, and gets read by a hall effect sensor that bolts up to the old dust shield. It clamps around the hub, which is mechanically separate from the brake rotor, so it shouldn't see much heat (if any).
I made it parameterized so that I can resize it or otherwise adjust it for different shafts, different numbers of triggers, and different hardware, but this seems to work the best for the guys that wanted them.
www.thingiverse.com
I'll never have an 800HP 240Z, but at least I'll have some parts on one
I made it parameterized so that I can resize it or otherwise adjust it for different shafts, different numbers of triggers, and different hardware, but this seems to work the best for the guys that wanted them.
Parameterized tone wheel by gcdanie
This is a parameter-generated tone wheel generated in openSCAD. The defaults set it up for a Silvermine Motors big brake kit for a 240Z, but are adaptable to basically any rotating shaft.The .scad file will allow any parameter tweaking for your particular use case.It's not a stressed piece of...
www.thingiverse.com
I'll never have an 800HP 240Z, but at least I'll have some parts on one
R. Deschain
Well-known member
I have a little bit of a 3D printing problem... I addition to running the Additive Engineering/Manufacturing group at work, I have 3 of my own printers in the basement and at least one is running all the time. Mostly prototypes for parts that will be machined, small organizers, game pieces, spacers, widgets, and the like. I run a small production quantity of some parts that I sell every month as well. A couple vids:
Junk Drawer Battery Org:
A type-high gauge holder (really proud of this one!):
Basement tool board (go to 6:51 for the printed parts):
Mill bit Organization in the shop:
Junk Drawer Battery Org:
A type-high gauge holder (really proud of this one!):
Basement tool board (go to 6:51 for the printed parts):
Mill bit Organization in the shop:
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R. Deschain
Well-known member
I use hairspray as well. the cheaper the better. I only have 1 printer at home with a glass bed, but I used it with my Dremel 3D20 and my Makerbot machines. Night and day difference for stopping lifting (use a raft as well) and overall adhesion.I tried the "Glue Stick" on the glass... it was an absolute failure. After cleaning my bed with soap, water with a scrub brush... I switched to Aqua Net Extra Hold unscented hair spray... OMG it's crazy sticky now... no lift, no warp. Beware... you will have to wait to remove your item... the glass has to totally cool.
My latest print...
Jehannum
Well-known member
I really like PVA/glue stick on my glass bed. However, often times I find that adhesion issues depend more on the kind of thing being printed, and the material I'm printing in. ABS will curl at the drop of a hat if I'm not keeping the bed hot enough, or not starting close enough. Nylon's finicky about printing at higher speeds, and about ambient humidity issues (which I solve using a vacuum chamber). PLA is the most forgiving, followed by PETG (which I've broken glass beds trying to remove before).
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
PETG... I was "told"... to never print it on glass... an alternative is to coat the bed with painters tape. Never tried it ... I don't have PETG yet.
I have a spool of RED TPU coming tomorrow... will let you know what happens.
I have a spool of RED TPU coming tomorrow... will let you know what happens.
Jehannum
Well-known member
PETG adheres to anything. I prefer to just print it on buildtak or kapton tape, since they're both cheap to replace and I've got loads of them on hand.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Printed (and printing)... some Dyson Vacuum adapters
Also printed a container to store Lithium Ion 18650 batteries
Also printed a container to store Lithium Ion 18650 batteries
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Printed a container for my AA batteries... modelled after an AMMO can. Before you get excited... I got the STL files off the internet. I am going to print another for AAA batteries when I get some dark green filament.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
More Battery Holders... Much higher quality than the cheap **** I bought on Amazon to store my batteries. Got the files from ThingIVerse...
NEXT: I will be printing a Rocket Toy for a friend... and some PIPE flanges to secure my 3D Printer table to it's mesh shelving it sits on... had to learn a bit of OpenSCAD to get the size right... impressive software.
NEXT: I will be printing a Rocket Toy for a friend... and some PIPE flanges to secure my 3D Printer table to it's mesh shelving it sits on... had to learn a bit of OpenSCAD to get the size right... impressive software.
purplezr2
Well-known member
Curious to why round battery holders and not square or rectangular?
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Batteries are round... lol... I prefer the screw top containers for batteries. I have square ones now and the lids or hinges never last long.
The one black "ammo can" container isn't round but I printed that because it's cool and can store A LOT of batteries.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Filament PSA:
I've gone thru about 8 spools so far. Mostly eSun and MatterHackers... all PLA.... all at 210/60. Nothing bad happened along any prints... THEN i loaded a spool of Amazon Basics Blue PLA... (i'm gonna swear now, look away) this **** is useless... won't stick... cleaned, reset everything... still won't stick... what does print looks horrible (over extruded). Made adjustments... lowered to 190 as it is the lowest recommended temp... still garbage. 200... same garbage. I'm back to Matterhackers.
Use Amazon Basic Filament at your OWN RISK.
EDIT: I left a 2 star rating on Amazon Friday... it's Monday... still has NOT POSTED even tho several of my other reviews have posted.
EDIT 2: switched to Materhackers ... changed nothing else. Didn't even clean the bed... been printing for several hours PERFECTLY at 210/60
I've gone thru about 8 spools so far. Mostly eSun and MatterHackers... all PLA.... all at 210/60. Nothing bad happened along any prints... THEN i loaded a spool of Amazon Basics Blue PLA... (i'm gonna swear now, look away) this **** is useless... won't stick... cleaned, reset everything... still won't stick... what does print looks horrible (over extruded). Made adjustments... lowered to 190 as it is the lowest recommended temp... still garbage. 200... same garbage. I'm back to Matterhackers.
Use Amazon Basic Filament at your OWN RISK.
EDIT: I left a 2 star rating on Amazon Friday... it's Monday... still has NOT POSTED even tho several of my other reviews have posted.
EDIT 2: switched to Materhackers ... changed nothing else. Didn't even clean the bed... been printing for several hours PERFECTLY at 210/60
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pwhittle
Well-known member
I got into 3D printing because of our Motorhome.
We have an electronic toilet and the controller failed. The controller has not been made for 10 years.
Rather than buy a different toilet, I built a replacement controller using an Arduino. When I shared that with other owners, a few people also wanted one so I laid out a PCB, but I needed an enclosure. Hence the 3D printer.
I am over 80 controllers sold and am on the second revision of the PCB which has 50 surface mount components.
I designed this version of the enclosure with OpenSCAD and print it in ABS. The stack of enclosures is from a single 1Kg spool of Polymaker PolyLite ABS.
Printer is an Ender 3 with a metal extruder, hot end mod, Capricorn tube, a Fula-Flex print bed, and an enclosure to keep the print area at a constant temperature.
Each enclosure takes 8 1/2 hours to print. Temperature is 260/110. The Fula-Flex print bed was the game changer for me for printing with ABS. I really struggled with warping without it. Even with the anti-warp tabs I get a minimal, but acceptable, amount of warping,
We have an electronic toilet and the controller failed. The controller has not been made for 10 years.
Rather than buy a different toilet, I built a replacement controller using an Arduino. When I shared that with other owners, a few people also wanted one so I laid out a PCB, but I needed an enclosure. Hence the 3D printer.
I am over 80 controllers sold and am on the second revision of the PCB which has 50 surface mount components.
I designed this version of the enclosure with OpenSCAD and print it in ABS. The stack of enclosures is from a single 1Kg spool of Polymaker PolyLite ABS.
Printer is an Ender 3 with a metal extruder, hot end mod, Capricorn tube, a Fula-Flex print bed, and an enclosure to keep the print area at a constant temperature.
Each enclosure takes 8 1/2 hours to print. Temperature is 260/110. The Fula-Flex print bed was the game changer for me for printing with ABS. I really struggled with warping without it. Even with the anti-warp tabs I get a minimal, but acceptable, amount of warping,
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PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have a pile of tiny tools specifically for the 3D Printer. I decided to look for and print some kind or "organizer". This was printed in pieces and assembled. Just 4 parts needed glue... the rest have "dovetail" fittings.
I have a pile of tiny tools specifically for the 3D Printer. I decided to look for and print some kind or "organizer". This was printed in pieces and assembled. Just 4 parts needed glue... the rest have "dovetail" fittings.
Ohhhh...I likey....well done! Any chance you could share an "action" shot when you get it loaded up in its new home?
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sure... that red and yellow wrench rack has a handle that is not attached yet... but it lifts off the "rack". That YELLOW spacer in the middle of the plier section is just that... a spacer... 8 sections all printed apart did not add up to the full width of the "system"... so I added a total of 3.5 mm of "spacer" to get closer... I'm still off about a mm.
I will post "In Use" pictures. The problem is... my 3D printer room has super poor lighting... so I need to pull it out and film it in the kitchen.
Pictures soon.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Semi loaded. the tall "drivers" are ball end hex. I found the handle file that mimics wera... I also included a picture of a simple tray I use for loose screws... etc. 
vavet
Well-known member
FNG question here: I want to print PETG on an Ender 3 without an enclosure. What precautions do I need to take.
My understanding is that it gives off some toxic fumes and you need ventilation.
Is it enough to just leave the room closed up until printing is finished? Or will the room just stink and still be toxic afterwards until the air is exchanged?
Should I take my 3D printer into the garage with the door open on a nice day prevent any problems?
My understanding is that it gives off some toxic fumes and you need ventilation.
Is it enough to just leave the room closed up until printing is finished? Or will the room just stink and still be toxic afterwards until the air is exchanged?
Should I take my 3D printer into the garage with the door open on a nice day prevent any problems?
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
https://all3dp.com/2/petg-vs-pla-3d-printing-filaments-compared/
Found this ^^^ I only printed SMALL things with PETG. They freakishly stuck to my glass bed. One of the nubs on my glass bed coating remained stuck to my part.
I do not have an enclosure but I do have an air filter system in my "print room". I did notice a "Smell" but again... it was only a few small parts.
gtae07
Well-known member
I haven't had a problem with PETG sticking to the glass bed; I painted the bed with water-diluted Elmer's glue. No enclosure.
Then again I haven't printed anything in a while.
Then again I haven't printed anything in a while.
draco_1967
Well-known member
I've printed PETG on my Ender3 V2, and the only thing I did was use the smooth side of the glass bed with a coat of the purple Elmer's glue stick. Once the parts/bed cool, they pop right off. I printed those in my garage, so I wasn't concerned with fumes (it airs out quickly when I open all the doors).
vpd66
Well-known member
I've printed PETG on my Ender 3 with no enclosure and have not had any fume problems. ABS is the filament you have to be careful with. The only problems I've had with PETG is stringing and I mostly blame the filament absorbing moisture. I've been looking into filament driers.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
I have used PETG on my ender 3 and it prints well if dry and the right stuff. I have never had luck with black petg for some reason but I have only tried a few brands.
The biggest issue with petg is however warpage. In an open machine, large pieces or parts with heavy sections will warp, and will warp bad.
I had no issues what so ever with it sticking to glass, just let it cool off completely and it popped of of glass with aquanet.
The biggest issue with petg is however warpage. In an open machine, large pieces or parts with heavy sections will warp, and will warp bad.
I had no issues what so ever with it sticking to glass, just let it cool off completely and it popped of of glass with aquanet.
I've never heard of PETG warping. I suppose it could depend on the build surface you print on. But I print exclusively on flex sheets with PEI (both textured and smooth). PETG is known to stick aggressively to PEI, and the textured PEI mitigates some of that. I've printed a lot of PETG in the past 4-5 years, and I've never once seen it warp. If it's warping, you're having a bed adhesion issue and/or your gantry isn't trammed to the bed.
Out of the "common" printing materials (ABS, PLA, PETG), only ABS needs special considerations to prevent warping. ABS is the material that will warp along long spans, and you really need an enclosure to effectively print with it. There are ways to print it without an enclosure, but they're not always effective.
The reason why ABS warps is because it shrinks when it cools down, and the tension of the layers above it make it curl. With an enclosure, you can keep the entire part warm while printing, and then let it uniformly come down to room temperature.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
First, we are talking ender 3.
Second, most art and trinket prints do not warp because of thin wall, large and heavy walled technical prints warp. PEI, glass, garlite, It warps just like abs but not quite as bad. Its well documented, just google PETG warping.
Third, my bed even on my ender 3 is level, and on my railcore II its about as level as any printer could be. And with the railcores enclosure warping is greatly reduced, but i don't print it often any more due to lack of heat resistance and the superiority of abs printed in a chamber.
I've never used an ender 3, but I've had plenty of bed slingers, and never had any warping issues with PETG.
I mean, I certainly believe it's possible, but I've just never seen it on my end, and I've printed at least 50kg of PETG over the past few years. There's a bunch of variables that could cause warp. There's also no telling what's actually in the blend of plastic that your supplier sells you, as there's no accountability for that kinda stuff.
The only time I've actually seen PETG warp was when a buddy of mine was trying to print on a bed that was too cold. I always use 80-90C on the bed for PETG.
I've also printed in a cold ambient garage on an unenclosed printer and PETG didn't warp. And this is for large prints as well.
Not trying to be contrarian or anything like that, but I just don't think that's the common experience. Then again, a lot of people have difficulties with PETG (and I remember initially having those as well), but it prints just as well as PLA for me (the very few times I do use PLA).
These days, I mostly print with ABS though. I cheat for adhesion by using Visionminer nano on my build sheets. That stuff works amazing to keep stuff stuck to the build plates.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agree... BED temp is important... soooo important.
I just wasted 2 hours not realizing I had the wrong temp set in my Cura Sliced file I uploaded to Octoprint. Tried to print it 3 times with two different filaments (thinking it was the filaments fault)...
I was totally brain damaged not seeing the temperatures displayed on the CR10 control box, OCTOPrint app and the damn cura file that I generated.
On the positive... I releveled the bed 3 times... damn it's balls level to the print plane.
Testing printing TWO colors with an inserted script in the GCODE... to pause the print and allow me to change the color manually. I know it works If I was printing from the SD card... This test is from OCTOPRINT.