I thought about picking one up for RetroPie, but I'll probably hold off. My 3a+ works great for OctoPrint, and even better for fluidd.
I use ELG for all my data collecting. I run them out of containers so I can easily spin up a new stack when needed.During recent workshop re-organization I moved my 3D printer. I got the dreaded undervoltage warning in Octopi, which could be due to changing power bars, wiring or an aging power supply. I bought a new power supply, and since I used a different power bar in a different outlet I'll watch carefully.
I've added monitoring to my other RPIs, using the TIG Stack (Telegraf, InfluxDB, Grafana). I might need to modify the Grafana dashboard ( https://grafana.com/grafana/dashboards/10578 ) to include under-voltage warnings.
For those that are so inclined, this is "atom" my electronics development workstation (RPI4-4GB, dual monitor with Arduino IDE etc.). He's kind of sleeping in this morning
As for room temperature and humidity, I watch using Cayenne (DHT11 temp/humidity sensor running on an ESP8266 microcontroller). This needs to be upgraded to a DHT22, which is more precise (I've noticed issues with other DHT11's I have in my ecosystem).
Shop organization still underway, but it's getting there. I'm considering an enclosure for temp,humidity and dust control.
Yes, I will deal with rusty saw on the pegboard. I need to research on the other forums and do all the saws my Dad and Uncle left me!
Oh, I noticed a comment above relating to pre-heating. My workflow includes a preheat cycle (manual) every time I print to try to start at the same baseline every time.
Yup. Figured someone throwing a TIG stack around might already know it.
What is the little box hanging off the printer on the top right?During recent workshop re-organization I moved my 3D printer. I got the dreaded undervoltage warning in Octopi, which could be due to changing power bars, wiring or an aging power supply. I bought a new power supply, and since I used a different power bar in a different outlet I'll watch carefully.
I've added monitoring to my other RPIs, using the TIG Stack (Telegraf, InfluxDB, Grafana). I might need to modify the Grafana dashboard ( https://grafana.com/grafana/dashboards/10578 ) to include under-voltage warnings.
For those that are so inclined, this is "atom" my electronics development workstation (RPI4-4GB, dual monitor with Arduino IDE etc.). He's kind of sleeping in this morning
As for room temperature and humidity, I watch using Cayenne (DHT11 temp/humidity sensor running on an ESP8266 microcontroller). This needs to be upgraded to a DHT22, which is more precise (I've noticed issues with other DHT11's I have in my ecosystem).
Shop organization still underway, but it's getting there. I'm considering an enclosure for temp,humidity and dust control.
Yes, I will deal with rusty saw on the pegboard. I need to research on the other forums and do all the saws my Dad and Uncle left me!
Oh, I noticed a comment above relating to pre-heating. My workflow includes a preheat cycle (manual) every time I print to try to start at the same baseline every time.
@kaymccampbell
They'll print about 8x8x8 inches. So, like a human head.
You likely know this already, but sometimes the undervoltage problem can be caused by OctoPrint detecting voltage coming over the power pin on the USB port used for the data connection. If you haven't yet, may want to try putting a little strip on electrical tape over the power pin on the USB cableDuring recent workshop re-organization I moved my 3D printer. I got the dreaded undervoltage warning in Octopi, which could be due to changing power bars, wiring or an aging power supply. I bought a new power supply, and since I used a different power bar in a different outlet I'll watch carefully.
I've added monitoring to my other RPIs, using the TIG Stack (Telegraf, InfluxDB, Grafana). I might need to modify the Grafana dashboard ( https://grafana.com/grafana/dashboards/10578 ) to include under-voltage warnings.
For those that are so inclined, this is "atom" my electronics development workstation (RPI4-4GB, dual monitor with Arduino IDE etc.). He's kind of sleeping in this morning
As for room temperature and humidity, I watch using Cayenne (DHT11 temp/humidity sensor running on an ESP8266 microcontroller). This needs to be upgraded to a DHT22, which is more precise (I've noticed issues with other DHT11's I have in my ecosystem).
Shop organization still underway, but it's getting there. I'm considering an enclosure for temp,humidity and dust control.
Yes, I will deal with rusty saw on the pegboard. I need to research on the other forums and do all the saws my Dad and Uncle left me!
Oh, I noticed a comment above relating to pre-heating. My workflow includes a preheat cycle (manual) every time I print to try to start at the same baseline every time.
Depends on the issue. Some slicers that different routes during prints, and some address issues differently than others. There are also slicer-specific features that could certainly impact the print. There are plenty of free slicers out there to try out, Cura and SuperSlicer are probably the 2 biggest names.
Yeah I have never had to use anything other than Cura, but it's in the back of my end if something goes wonky. A few of their releases have been pretty odd.
I started with Prusa and then switched to Cura and I like it much better. I guess it just depends on what you like.
Please elaborate. Do the command names seem odd to you? What things are you referring to?
I already taped the power pin. In fact, the last time I got the warning the printer was actually powered off. The only change I can think of was the power bar, which made me wonder.
Some of the features such has scaling, rotation, and the names of the categories of what your looking for don't seem to go along with the function. Trying to find retraction to adjust the settings always gave me grief. It just seems like Prusaslicer is laided out a little better and easier to navigate. Prusaslicer is definitely faster at slicing.
octoprint.org
That is assuming you are on the same VLAN, which I am not. Again I may be an edge case, but for someone to create a plugin makes me think I am not alone.
That is assuming you are on the same VLAN, which I am not. Again I may be an edge case, but for someone to create a plugin makes me think I am not alone.
A pencil isn't good enough for you?
Interesting! I actually added lines of code to my microcontrollers (Arduino, Esp8266 etc.) so I can see what is running on them. Code displays hostname, ip address, filename, Arduino version to the LCD (if it has one) and the serial port - so I can read it in the IDE when I restart the microcontroller.This may only be me, my printer sits in my office at work and therefore I do not have access to lock the DHCP address. Before this plugin, I would use Nmap to find it and it was not fun. Now just look at the screen. I just wanted to share it if anyone else is in the same boat.
LOVE THIS! Is this available as a parametric design somewhere?
I drew them in AutoCAD. I can send the .DGW's or the .STL's if someone would like to play around with them. Or I can make other labels if needed. Pretty simple to draw/extrude.
In all honesty a good sheet magnet, cut with something like a Cricut would look better to me, but a 3D printer is all I have at my disposal at the moment.
