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The Hammer

hammlm

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Most impressive. I have to say the bonus footage of the rotella smashing was worth the price of admission
 
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MD11

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Absolutely cool (pardon the pun).... how do you engineer the tolerances on something like that? Do you know how much to expect the metal to shrink based on a materials table of some kind?
 

mjozefow

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Absolutely cool (pardon the pun).... how do you engineer the tolerances on something like that? Do you know how much to expect the metal to shrink based on a materials table of some kind?

In short, the circumferential compression forces will be the same as if the shaft were mechanically pressed in and deformed the same amount.

If a piece of metal is acted upon by a pressure (F/A) the metal will deform according to the metal's modulus of elasticity, and the magnitude of pressure placed upon it.

One can mathematically predict the shrinkage due to temperature of metal based on equations from various engineering sources. So, once the shrinkage is known, it is possible to tell how much the shaft will expand, and therefore how much pressure is holding the head on when it is all warmed back up.

Example: Say 30,000 lbs will compress a column 1/2". Then if that column were placed in a clamp and heated to a temperature where there would be a expansion of 1/2", the column would be pushing with 30,000lbf. This obviously assuming the clamp does not deform.
 
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MD11

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Thanks for that Materials Science refresher mjozefow... I studied all that stuff a long time ago but have never worked in the field so it all eroded away a long time ago! Good stuff!
 
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A_Pmech

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As an estimate, approximately 15 tons +- based on my experience. Numerous samples would have to be tested across the tolerance range to provide a closer estimate.

allessence said:
How much pressure do you figure is holding the handle once it expands again?

Tables and calculations provide an approximation of the correct fit. Mjozefow has outlined the method.

From there, my experience takes over. Shrink fits rarely work as initially calculated due to the expansive number of variables involved.

Tolerance limits are arrived at though destructive testing.

Absolutely cool (pardon the pun).... how do you engineer the tolerances on something like that? Do you know how much to expect the metal to shrink based on a materials table of some kind?
 
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mjozefow

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Thanks for that Materials Science refresher mjozefow... I studied all that stuff a long time ago but have never worked in the field so it all eroded away a long time ago! Good stuff!

Just had the final for that class Tuesday. :bounce:
 
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A_Pmech

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Thank you.

At the moment I'm thinking:

Nutcracker
Meat tenderizer
In-law submission device
Conversation piece

:bounce:

I am amazed. I am sitting here trying to make up things I could use it for to justify buying one!
 
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A_Pmech

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Hammers are are shipping in the morning via USPS Priority Mail. You should expect them in 2-3 days.

Here's the class photo:

classphoto.jpg
 

crashbumper

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Sweet jesus those are amazing. Wish I could have gotten in on this.

I hope you are still making these in a few months.
 
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A_Pmech

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Thanks guys!

I do have a few extras for anyone who still wants one!

:thumbup:
 

cronic

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Jun 19, 2008
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Are you planning on taking anymore orders?
edit, Thanks, I see the above post now, lol.
 
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A_Pmech

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Are you planning on taking anymore orders?
edit, Thanks, I see the above post now, lol.

At the moment I have three extras and one is spoken for. If they're not purchased by a GJ member in the next two weeks I'll put them on Ebay.

:thumbup:
 

MD11

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Ok... Ok... "The Hammer" arrived today... USPS Flat Rate box, signature confirmation, well packaged, sealed in plastic and well protected.

If I had to chose one word, it would be: FREAKINAMAZING!

There will be a full review with in a couple of days after I get a chance to play with it some more, but it is utterly amazing. The quality of the machining and craftsmanship is aircraft/medical grade. The materials are first rate, and the design, ergonomics, and usability are first rate.. THERE IS NO VIBRATION RECOIL when striking.... nearly none worth mention at least.

I can't take worthy photo's but I can tell you the photo's in this thread do it no justice.

With the proper marketing / packaging and a "Hand Made in the USA" label on it, this hammer can easily be sold as a medical grade or precision grade tool for 3 to 4 times what he is selling it for, yes $500 or more... there is a lot of hand workmanship in this that would not usually be had cheaply. I'd easily see a orthopedic surgeon using something like this.

PLEASE put me down for the Brass and any other metals you should make the heads out of.. I will pre-order if need be.

Thanks A_P... truly my finest tool.
 

ricleh

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Nov 2, 2007
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Sacramento, CA
I just received my hammer - excellent quality. Thanks. I would also like to get one of the brass heads when they are available.
 
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A_Pmech

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MD11, ricleh,

Glad to hear your hammers arrived safely!

Thank you for the compliments. I'm glad to hear they met your expectations, I know it's hard to judge a tool though photos alone. Obviously, I've hit the mark I was aiming for.

I'll keep everyone updated with new developments.

:beer:

MD11, I'm looking forward to reading your review.

:thumbup:
 
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A_Pmech

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BRASS FACES!

Due to the overwhelming request for Brass faces, I've decided to set the price and allow pre-ordering, as I have a feeling I need to order more material than initially anticipated.

These faces will be made from alloy 360 Brass and are priced at $15.00 each. They cost slightly more than the Aluminum, Steel, and Nylon faces due to the cost of the material.

Hammer faces will ship in a Small Flat Rate box for $4.95.

You can order your Brass faces now!

Thanks to everybody for your support and interest in The Hammer! The response to The Hammer from Garage Journal members has been so gratifying that I'll be making more hammers after the holidays and these will be serially numbered, starting with #1.

So, if you have one of the un-numbered hammers, you may be the owner of a true collector's item.

Again, thanks to everyone and Best Wishes!

:beer:
 
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Bull

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Dec 12, 2005
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I do not believe that in my amateur-hobbyist-works-on-Firebirds life I need one of these fine instruments. But dammit do I like looking at the pictures. Just beautiful craftsmanship. Makes an S80 look like a clunky turd by comparison.
 

scottmlew

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Nov 24, 2008
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Is the end of the handle open? It looks it from the pics, although that may be the glare or something. If it is open, why is it open? It seems like it being open would allow dirt and such to get up in there and accumulate.
 

MD11

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Is the end of the handle open? It looks it from the pics, although that may be the glare or something. If it is open, why is it open? It seems like it being open would allow dirt and such to get up in there and accumulate.

I put in a request to A_P to make a nylon endcap for that.. its' hollowed out for weight savings, you'll see when you get yours.
 

Danglerb

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SoCal
I'm curious, why not heat the head instead of chill the handle?

Anybody planning on making a case for their hammers?
 
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A_Pmech

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Quite a compliment Bull, thank you!

:)

Bull said:
I do not believe that in my amateur-hobbyist-works-on-Firebirds life I need one of these fine instruments. But dammit do I like looking at the pictures. Just beautiful craftsmanship. Makes an S80 look like a clunky turd by comparison.



Scott,

I come from aviation, so when I build things I'm always looking for ways to save weight while maintaining strength. The handle of The Hammer is an example. You might say it's an airplane part disguised as a hammer handle.

The handle is hollow, all the way up to the head. Gun-boring out the handle reduces it's weight, which makes the hammer better balanced and provides a better striking feel with less vibration. It takes a lot work, expensive tools, and a careful setup to bore a 1/4" hole nearly 10" deep and maintain it concentric to the handle OD. I feel showing that the handle is machined both inside and out is a sign of quality.

It's easily cleaned out with a quick shot of carburetor cleaner and a blast of air. That's how I clean the chips and coolant out before packaging them up. Aluminum will never stain or hold dirty fingerprints and gunk like wood and plastic will.

:beer:

Scottmlew said:
Is the end of the handle open? It looks it from the pics, although that may be the glare or something. If it is open, why is it open? It seems like it being open would allow dirt and such to get up in there and accumulate.




Using Liquid Nitrogen is quite a bit more expensive, but it provides for a much superior interference shrink fit. :thumbup:

Danglerb said:
I'm curious, why not heat the head instead of chill the handle?





Thank you Monte and tw33k2514.

:)

Monte said:
That`s a nice hammer !!!

tw33k2514 said:
DEAR GOD! that is the finest hammer I ever ever laid my eyes on....
 

MD11

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This is truly a no-expense spared tool of the finest order. As I said before, easily worth 2 - 3 times it's asking price with the proper marketing machine behind it.
 
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A_Pmech

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Hi Ogri,

I responded to your PM.

Happy New Year!

PS: Welcome to the board!
 
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A_Pmech

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Over the Christmas and New Years holidays, I did a little thinking about tools which would compliment The Hammer. Since The Hammer is very much a product of the members of Garage Journal, I'd like some input on the next tool in my lineup.

Like many of us, I have several sets of pin punches. Mine are made by Enderes Tools and Mayhew here in the USA. Over the years, I've always thought the basic pin punch could be improved upon. When a small pin punch breaks you have no choice but to stop the project and buy another one, or hope you don't also break your spare. Also the tolerances to which even the best USA pin punches are made to are rather rough. I find they're not always accurate enough for the work at hand.

I'd like to hear what you guys think about pin punches. Tell me what you like, what you dislike and where they might be improved. I want to build a better pin punch for Garage Journal members.

:beer:
 

MD11

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Replaceable tips possible? Or would the constant hammering on them cause the threads to deform?
 

crashbumper

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Gilbert, AZ
Replaceable tips possible? Or would the constant hammering on them cause the threads to deform?

Aren't threads like ACME threads supposed to be stronger taking that type of a load? I thought I heard that's why they are used in things like vises, scissor jacks, etc.

Don't know how hard those threads are to make though.

Having a large handle to hold the punch, but still a small (1/8"?) tip might make it easier to control. I hate holding dinky little pin punches; I feel like I'm playing with a kids toy.


One thing I'd like to see in a pin punch is some kind of adjustable stop (built in?) or markings. Sometimes I want to drive something out only so far and it's not always easy to determine how far you have moved it. I think A_P had to drive out a pin from the chain on his Do-All, and that's the best example I can think of. Drive it out too far, and you're SOL. Could I use tape? Probably, but it never seems to be near me when I think about it.
 
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A_Pmech

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It depends on how they're made, MD11. Instead of threading the pin and the bore, the pin could slide into a reamed bore and locate in place with a set screw. If the pin becomes damaged or bent, simply release the set screw, pull out the old pin and install a new one.

Replaceable tips possible? Or would the constant hammering on them cause the threads to deform?

So, if I'm reading you correctly, Crash, you rarely hold a small pin punch between your fingers? Instead, you'd prefer to use a handle of some sort?

Adjustable stops are an interesting idea. What about an adjustable length pin? Just crank out what you need, like a mechanical pencil?

I got LOTS of pin punch workout on the Do-All! Moving all those roll pins, split pins and taper pins is what got me to thinking there has to be a better tool! I searched high and low and found that everybody makes the same basic tool. Snap-On, Mac, Matco, Enderes, Mayhew, Even PB Swiss!

crashbumper said:
Having a large handle to hold the punch, but still a small (1/8"?) tip might make it easier to control. I hate holding dinky little pin punches; I feel like I'm playing with a kids toy.


One thing I'd like to see in a pin punch is some kind of adjustable stop (built in?) or markings. Sometimes I want to drive something out only so far and it's not always easy to determine how far you have moved it. I think A_P had to drive out a pin from the chain on his Do-All, and that's the best example I can think of. Drive it out too far, and you're SOL. Could I use tape? Probably, but it never seems to be near me when I think about it.

Yeah, me too! I have several partial sets in my toolbox because I broke one size.

tonydanzah said:
mine always end up getting bent

I've gotten some good ideas here, keep them coming!
 

thk2c

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Dec 15, 2008
Messages
201
have you tried the Starrett pin punches? I really like mine, and haven't had any problems, but then again I don't use them ever day.

A Pmech, you make a sweet Hammer. I am interested in seeing what you come up with for the punches. I am going to hate myself for spending so much money that I don't have, but I will probably end up buying both.
 
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A_Pmech

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Hi THK,

I've used Starrett's punches and I agree, they are superior to most. However, they still have some annoying problems. Mainly, the pin can't be changed out when it bends or breaks! You're stuck buying a new one, or waiting to warranty it. I think replaceable pins would be a great advantage.

Thank you! The Hammer was largely an outcropping of ideas from Garage Journal members and some of my own ideas. I'm dissatisfied with a lot of the tools made today and I'm in a position to do something about it! I've been using the prototype hammer in my shop nearly every day. Not because I made it, but because it's my best small hammer!

I suspect once you hold it in your hands you won't hate yourself any longer. There's something about a hand-made tool... I find it's hard to part with them once I've made them!

:)


have you tried the Starrett pin punches? I really like mine, and haven't had any problems, but then again I don't use them ever day.

A Pmech, you make a sweet Hammer. I am interested in seeing what you come up with for the punches. I am going to hate myself for spending so much money that I don't have, but I will probably end up buying both.
 
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