The Harbor Freight PASS/FAIL Thread...

[emeraldcoupe]

the 3x5 foot embroidered American Flag (Made in China)

that is just wrong on so many levels

 

[RW-7]

I got a cabinet Sand Blaster the other day. Seems to work ok. Few small leaks here and there, but overall for the price, well worth it.
You must use an air filter / dryer with it, otherwise it will clog up.
I DO NOT recommend buying and media at HF. 40#s was like $40.
I got a 100# bag at my local brick yard for less than $10.
Cabinet Sand Blaster $210. I give it a PASS.

 

[outcast]

if u go to lowes u can get the kobalt ones.

i don't want mismatched sockets

The 20- and 23MM sockets would be unlikely to be used, since there are no standard metric hex fasteners in these sizes. The 16- and 18MM sockets would be used on DIN standard nuts (10MM and 12MM, respectively) but ISO and JIS hexes are included in this set.

16MM is only .005 larger than 5/8", so an American wrench could substitute, although a little tight.

I once needed an 18MM wrench, and bought a combination wrench off Ebay. Since this is a DIN hex size, they should be available online somewhere.

i don't want empty slots in my trays.

this missing sizes thing is a major fail for me. i would buy more sets from them. but not until they are complete sets.

 

[mikewoods]

48" 3-1/2 Ton Farm Jack- Pass

I've used this jack for everything from leveling the dock to changing tires on the highway to winching out when I got stuck. Just a little lube here and there and its worked great for the year I've had it. much less expensive than the hi-lift. I would consider purchasing some of the hi-lift accessories such as the handle keeper and the off road base.

 

[98TJ]

I recently picked up the 4-piece pry bar set.

As of now, I'm giving these a fail.

I tried prying a Lisle stud remover off the stud and the tip of the pry bar deformed like I had beat on it and used it as a chisel. Grabbed a 2nd pry bar and it did the same.

Will go in for an exchange today and give the new set a go. Maybe there was an error with hardening/heat treatment/something.

 

[Farmer Joe]

From what I see, the set of prybars aren't all that reliable. I saw a guy but this set, bend the longer one pretty bad, and then the next week buy the set of prybars off the SO truck. I might pick up a set though and try then out for myself though, for the price it's worth a try.

 

[MNRZR]

Those pry bars recently changed from Made in China to Made in India and the quality is waaaay down now. I bought the set made in China probably 10 years ago and have used and abused them extensively and they haven't let me down. What ***** is if one does ever fail, they'll give me these new, Indian bars.

 

[brett09]

I know its been mentioned, but I will +1 that the green handled roto head 3/8 drive ratchet is great. Can't stop using it. PASS

The cen-tech hand held wand style metal detector, my cousin got it as a gag gift for his birthday. It really will beep at anything, no matter how you adjust the sensitivity. FAIL

 

[bimmerZ5]

MASSIVE PASS (after a simple fix) : I got this spray gun:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

and at first, I couldn't figure out how to stop it from leaking air. I thought it was the air inlet stem, as i could feel air coming from there. But that wasn't it, it was the air volume adjustment valve. I unscrewed it and noticed they tried some thread sealant but it got pushed up and didn't seal the threads. I re-sealed it with some teflon tape and the leak was no longer.

so yesterday, i decided to test it out and spray my shutters. i've been renovating my living area and i wanted the shutters to match the new color of the walls. I diluted the latex paint with 20% water and started spraying. first some testing on cardboard and scrap wood i had around... very easy to control and figured out how i wanted to set all the adjustments like air flow, fan pattern, paint flow, etc. then started to spray the shutters.... wow! for an amateur i can't believe the paint came out so beautifully! the atomization of the paint is incredible and results were amazing. even though there were a few spots i messed up, i just sprayed over them again and you can't tell i had messed up there. there's no way that any bristle or foam brush or roller could lay down such a smooth finish. i'm almost convinced that i should always spray the paint instead of using rollers or brushes.

i was using this with my tiny pancake compressor and it had the motor working pretty hard to keep up. so next time i'll probably use my 33gal compressor instead. but for $10 (bought with coupon), i'm very impressed how well this little thing works. i'm starting to think about spraying polyurethane with this on my bar counter top and other things around the house...

 

[RangerDaleXp]

Those pry bars recently changed from Made in China to Made in India and the quality is waaaay down now. I bought the set made in China probably 10 years ago and have used and abused them extensively and they haven't let me down. What ***** is if one does ever fail, they'll give me these new, Indian bars.

On this. I have a set that is about that old and have not had any problems.....

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

MASSIVE PASS (after a simple fix) : I got this spray gun:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

and at first, I couldn't figure out how to stop it from leaking air. I thought it was the air inlet stem, as i could feel air coming from there. But that wasn't it, it was the air volume adjustment valve. I unscrewed it and noticed they tried some thread sealant but it got pushed up and didn't seal the threads. I re-sealed it with some teflon tape and the leak was no longer.

so yesterday, i decided to test it out and spray my shutters. i've been renovating my living area and i wanted the shutters to match the new color of the walls. I diluted the latex paint with 20% water and started spraying. first some testing on cardboard and scrap wood i had around... very easy to control and figured out how i wanted to set all the adjustments like air flow, fan pattern, paint flow, etc. then started to spray the shutters.... wow! for an amateur i can't believe the paint came out so beautifully! the atomization of the paint is incredible and results were amazing. even though there were a few spots i messed up, i just sprayed over them again and you can't tell i had messed up there. there's no way that any bristle or foam brush or roller could lay down such a smooth finish. i'm almost convinced that i should always spray the paint instead of using rollers or brushes.

i was using this with my tiny pancake compressor and it had the motor working pretty hard to keep up. so next time i'll probably use my 33gal compressor instead. but for $10 (bought with coupon), i'm very impressed how well this little thing works. i'm starting to think about spraying polyurethane with this on my bar counter top and other things around the house...

I second this. Used it to spray some primer and then a single stage paint on the running board kit of our van...worked like a charm. Again i'm no pro..but this is a great gun especially for the price. Only issue i had was the little washer that goes to the cup up top is pretty cheap...got a little tiny dribble of paint out of the threaded area...not like it was running, but just gotta replace the little washer, other than that A+ item

 

[omr]

MASSIVE PASS (after a simple fix) : I got this spray gun:

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-47016.html

and at first, I couldn't figure out how to stop it from leaking air. I thought it was the air inlet stem, as i could feel air coming from there. But that wasn't it, it was the air volume adjustment valve. I unscrewed it and noticed they tried some thread sealant but it got pushed up and didn't seal the threads. I re-sealed it with some teflon tape and the leak was no longer.

so yesterday, i decided to test it out and spray my shutters. i've been renovating my living area and i wanted the shutters to match the new color of the walls. I diluted the latex paint with 20% water and started spraying. first some testing on cardboard and scrap wood i had around... very easy to control and figured out how i wanted to set all the adjustments like air flow, fan pattern, paint flow, etc. then started to spray the shutters.... wow! for an amateur i can't believe the paint came out so beautifully! the atomization of the paint is incredible and results were amazing. even though there were a few spots i messed up, i just sprayed over them again and you can't tell i had messed up there. there's no way that any bristle or foam brush or roller could lay down such a smooth finish. i'm almost convinced that i should always spray the paint instead of using rollers or brushes.

i was using this with my tiny pancake compressor and it had the motor working pretty hard to keep up. so next time i'll probably use my 33gal compressor instead. but for $10 (bought with coupon), i'm very impressed how well this little thing works. i'm starting to think about spraying polyurethane with this on my bar counter top and other things around the house...

i was always under the impression you couldnt spray latex paint unless you used an airless sprayer , learn some thing new every day ..

 

[bimmerZ5]

i was always under the impression you couldnt spray latex paint unless you used an airless sprayer , learn some thing new every day ..

I've heard that too... but i never let other people from preventing me from trying unconventional things. I had to dilute the latex paint by 20% with water though.. and even then after an hour of spraying i had to add a little more water. I'm no pro... i don't know what long term affects my method will have on the finish but so far it's really good and shows no signs of problems

 

[omr]

I've heard that too... but i never let other people from preventing me from trying unconventional things. I had to dilute the latex paint by 20% with water though.. and even then after an hour of spraying i had to add a little more water. I'm no pro... i don't know what long term affects my method will have on the finish but so far it's really good and shows no signs of problems

an hour of spraying with an airless sprayer you would have gone though gallons and gallons of paint , maybe it's just a volume issue ..

 

[ineedtools]

Signs hanging at my HF says "Lifetime Guarantee on ALL hand tools" I'll snap a pic next time I'm there.

As for the gravity fed HPLV sprayer I pick one up everytime they're on sale for $10 I like them so much!

 

[Dart715]

Black 4 drawer tool cart:

Pass and fail

Fails for the following
1st problem was the the box didnt sit correctly in the stands and wouldnt allow one drawer to open. A small block of wood to push that out helped solve the problem.

Second problem was the locking system blocks the top right drawer when you try and close it. Just have to push the pin in on top of cart to fix.

Not really a problem but just wished it came with 4 swivel casters

Pros:

Holds all the tools i need easily, pretty good amount of space, was only $99!

 

[Squankum]

I know its been mentioned, but I will +1 that the green handled roto head 3/8 drive ratchet is great. Can't stop using it. PASS

Ditto. I like mine a lot. My first roto-head, never knew they existed, or what I was missing.

And for the money, it's hilariously good.

 

[1984Datsun]

I bought the telescoping gauge set, the 2 ton engine hoist, and the 2.5 ton low profile floor jack...

I am very happy with them.

Also bought the die grinder set, the air hammer, and a few other things as well.

All of them are worth their salt.

Pass...

Best thing to do is read reviews... I found lots of other stuff that I'll have to get from there sometime. Like the 12,000 pound winch...

 

[subarub4]

My orange polisher works fine, but sounds like a bunch of marbles rattling in something. $20 and it works but noisy is fine with me.

Next thing I'll hear is that its "not as good as" the Flex.

The Orange 10"?

What I hate about it is the switch is so damn easy to bump and I end up with a face full of wax..

I was thinking about taking out the switch to one that takes a bit more force to turn on.

 

[shoot summ]

I've tried twice to get a tubing notcher that works from HF, as much as I want it to work for some reason both of them had an issue with the threaded portion for the hole saw and would not run true.

So HF Tubing Notcher = Fail.

 

[tpolley]

firstly, i need to get this out of the way...

second, it's a moot point because its been discontinued and its no longer available. it's not listed on thier web site any more. i had to go to 2 different stores to find it.

i picked up harbor freights version of the yankee screw driver. i've used it a few times. not sure if its a pass or fail yet. it does work. its a smooth action. i used it to drive 1 inch screws into 1x4 and 2x2.

i did however notice metal shavings falling out of the mechanism as i was using it. i assume it was the chrome peeling off? maybe it was any mill scale or rough edges falling off?? i don't know, like i said it seemed to work fine. the locking mechanism is tight as hell. i'll oil it tomorrow and see if that loosens it up.

it does accept standard 1/4 inche hex bits. i think they call it the improved yankee screwdriver.

 

[gsport]

ok, i've tried the search and i've scrolled for awhile, and can't find anything on the portable metal cutting bandsaw.... does anyone have one of these (about $79)?? and if so, is it a pass or fail??

 

[Danglerb]

68427 Impacting air ratchet - PASS
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-professional-impacting-air-ratchet-wrench-68427.html

I wanted a 3/8, but found a new 1/2" on ebay for $39 shipped. Arrived today and I have only tried half a dozen nuts/bolts at a friends shop, but it works well and appears well made.

Real impact action, some other brands have clutch release type mechanism that reduces kick, but doesn't hit like an impact. This one has no kick and hits like an impact.

Not a Hammerhead with 200 ftlbs that will take off lugs and crank bolts, but worked fine up to about a 15mm nut, and handled larger ones with some manual assist (release the triggle and use it like a regular ratchet), and once broken loose its fast. Maybe too powerful to use on smaller than a M10, but I don't have a good feel for the throttle.

Direction change is a little clunky, push down on a selector and rotate, and it is kind of heavy, which is both good and bad.

 

[Danglerb]

ok, i've tried the search and i've scrolled for awhile, and can't find anything on the portable metal cutting bandsaw.... does anyone have one of these (about $79)?? and if so, is it a pass or fail??

http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-variable-speed-bandsaw-47840.html

Key present and future searches is to include the model number 47840.

Got these from a search of this thread using just bandsaw.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1423776&highlight=bandsaw#post1423776

Old reviews on knife forum seem to like it, with a good blade, sometimes some tweaking, shimming an adjustment mount.

 

[terry1769]

I have that saw and give it a huge thumbs up! Throw out the blade that it comes with and get a Milwaukee from HD or other quality blade and it's great.

 

[subarub4]

68427 Impacting air ratchet - PASS
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-professional-impacting-air-ratchet-wrench-68427.html

I wanted a 3/8, but found a new 1/2" on ebay for $39 shipped. Arrived today and I have only tried half a dozen nuts/bolts at a friends shop, but it works well and appears well made.

Real impact action, some other brands have clutch release type mechanism that reduces kick, but doesn't hit like an impact. This one has no kick and hits like an impact.

Not a Hammerhead with 200 ftlbs that will take off lugs and crank bolts, but worked fine up to about a 15mm nut, and handled larger ones with some manual assist (release the triggle and use it like a regular ratchet), and once broken loose its fast. Maybe too powerful to use on smaller than a M10, but I don't have a good feel for the throttle.

Direction change is a little clunky, push down on a selector and rotate, and it is kind of heavy, which is both good and bad.

Hmm nice I don't think it's enough to cause me to stop using my older 1/2" air ratchet I got last year.. I hardly use it that much anyways.

 

[FJF]

My orange polisher works fine, but sounds like a bunch of marbles rattling in something. $20 and it works but noisy is fine with me.

Next thing I'll hear is that its "not as good as" the Flex.

I usually don't comment on reviews, as I'm not really a toolguy, but I am a fairly serious detailing hobbyist. Some of my work. As far as buffers, I have a the PC and Flex DAs, and Makita and HF Chicago rotaries. Yes, the Chicago spins a pad. That's about it. It's rotation is inconstant as pressure is applied, so it suffers from every imaginable working anomaly. The results are ****. There's no way I would recommend this product for working on paint. Sanding, OK.

 

[econoaddict]

I've tried twice to get a tubing notcher that works from HF, as much as I want it to work for some reason both of them had an issue with the threaded portion for the hole saw and would not run true.

So HF Tubing Notcher = Fail.

Will have to disagree, I picked up a hf notcher and have used it alot, we are almost done building a cage in a capri drag car. Haven't had one issue with the notcher.

 

[SQ is the SQUAD]

can u post the part number for that tube notcher.

 

[1984Datsun]

This magnetic welding holder thingy... http://www.harborfreight.com/6-1-4-quarter-inch-multipurpose-magnet-holder-1939.html

It's a royal POS... can't hardly hold its own weight, much less hold two reasonably length pieces of 1" square tube long enough to make a tack weld... if you need something to hold 90 degree joints, get the clamping jig... next trip to HF will include the return of the magnet, and the purchase of one, maybe two right angle clamps, if they have them.

Skip right over the magnetic holding things... they aren't strong enough.


The 400 amp ground clamp, however is worth the 17 bucks... http://www.harborfreight.com/welding/welding-accessories/400-amp-welding-ground-clamp-66708.html

It greatly improved my welds just because of its surface contact when the clamp is put on the work... the Hobart Handlers, all of them from the 125 to the 210 IIRC, have the ****** battery jumper ground clamp... needless to say, the welds were marginal at best with that clamp... no surface area for the current to flow smoothly through. Less grinding out crappy welds and less worrying about a bad ground. Worth 17 bucks to me...


... 98TJ, you must have better luck with magnets... I never seem to be doing well with them...

 

[98TJ]

I picked up these small welding magnets and they're working great.


Also picked up the mini needle scaler a while back and it has been serving me well.

 

[subarub4]

So I got the tie down two piece strap I'm 99% sure i did the strap right but it's got so much extra when not hooked to anything

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ns/2-inch-x-20-ft-ratchet-tie-down-47764.html

 

[bhclark]

So I got the tie down two piece strap I'm 99% sure i did the strap right but it's got so much extra when not hooked to anything

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ns/2-inch-x-20-ft-ratchet-tie-down-47764.html

I use my daughter's ponytail bungies to keep the extra length under control. They are much more durable than rubber bands and just the right size. And cheap!

 

[bimmerZ5]

PASS: Heavy duty scraper

I picked up a couple of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-scraper-98381.html

to scrape off some really horrible 20yr old paper/glue on concrete that was left behind after breaking off some old wood parquet flooring. this stuff was incredibly hard to scrap off and so I went to HFT see if I could find something to aid in the project. These scrapers are awesome!!! I think they mean it when they say heavy duty... the blade metal was hard and only needed some light sharpening after a while when I was pounding it into the concrete floor with a 20 oz hammer. the blade is actually a double blade and you can flip it over for a new edge.

the plastic handle cover was cheesy and didn't take the abuse of the hammer I was using to pound it. I wrapped it with some duct tape and it was all good again. for the price, and how much it helped move my scraping project forward, I am more than satisfied.

 

[Andy Griffith]

So I got the tie down two piece strap I'm 99% sure i did the strap right but it's got so much extra when not hooked to anything

Are you talking about the tail/extra strap that is left after the load is tightened down?

If so what I do is run the ratchet strap up so it is almost starting to tighten against the load. At this point I gather the extra strap and fold it up from the end into a folded package that is about 12" long. Just fold the 12" sections over on themselves. Then I slip that package under the strap so that it is between the strap and the load. When the strap is tightened down it traps the extra folded strap up against the load, under the strap. Don't know if that made any sense at all.

Now, if I forget or for some reason can't do the above process I will do the fold up the extra strap thing and then fasten the folded strap to the main strap after it's tightened down using these bungees with toggle balls.

Bungee cord with toggle balls

 

[bochnak]

98187 - Quick-Connect Compression Tester

Major FAIL! Improper design.

The check valve / Schrader valve is located near the gage. This puts several feet of hose between gage and cyl head, which is volume, therefore readings will be lower than actual.

I bought a $30 one from sears (schrader valve at end of hose):
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00902171000P?prdNo=20&blockNo=20&blockType=G20

Testing these back to back on the same engine revealed 90psi with HF & 145psi with sears one.

That's enough to warrant a tear down!

 

[Danglerb]

98187 - Quick-Connect Compression Tester

Major FAIL! Improper design.

I've heard its bad cause it leaks or something before, but isn't it typical to have the check valve at or near the gauge?

A few points I was told;

Always use a fully charged battery, usually with a charger still on it.
Always do the same number of rotations per cylinder, about 5 is what I do.
Always check a warm engine.
Absolute numbers may vary from one gauge to another, what is most important is cylinder to cylinder with the same gauge.

 

[RodneyPierce]

Glad I found this thread! I always find myself wandering the isles at the local HF store. I have had the composite ratchets in my hands more times then I can count, but never have pulled the trigger. After reading the reviews in this thread, Im going to have to stop over there tonight and grab a couple of them. Also need to get myself a few new dead blow mallets.

 

[bochnak]

I've heard its bad cause it leaks or something before, but isn't it typical to have the check valve at or near the gauge?

A few points I was told;

Always use a fully charged battery, usually with a charger still on it.
Always do the same number of rotations per cylinder, about 5 is what I do.
Always check a warm engine.
Absolute numbers may vary from one gauge to another, what is most important is cylinder to cylinder with the same gauge.

The quick release valve by gauge- yes, check valve - no.

All I have to say is that the service manual on the motorcycle I was working on states 140-170psi. I was getting 90psi with the HF unit. I was convinced the engine was no good.

I tested both gauges on HF & sears unit to compressor gauge. All were same.

It's simply more volume/surface area with the HF and therefore a lower reading. P=F/A. More surface area, less pressure.

 

[subarub4]

Are you talking about the tail/extra strap that is left after the load is tightened down?

If so what I do is run the ratchet strap up so it is almost starting to tighten against the load. At this point I gather the extra strap and fold it up from the end into a folded package that is about 12" long. Just fold the 12" sections over on themselves. Then I slip that package under the strap so that it is between the strap and the load. When the strap is tightened down it traps the extra folded strap up against the load, under the strap. Don't know if that made any sense at all.

Now, if I forget or for some reason can't do the above process I will do the fold up the extra strap thing and then fasten the folded strap to the main strap after it's tightened down using these bungees with toggle balls.

Bungee cord with toggle balls

I think it's just a little too long that I got but I have it set right I should of picked up the 15 Ft one instead of the 20 Ft version but the 20 Ft was on sale.