Above 1200 Sq/FT The Lone Beech Garage (60x46x16)

[Jayman17]

Scott, just wanted to say I'm glad you had fun at your reunion and that you are posting again from the LBG. Hope all of your family are well with all that is going on now. Take care and keep the updates coming...

Jay

 

[LutzTD]

LutzTD,

Thanks for the offers of assistance! Your verification of the range of an Ultrasonic sensor is heartening. I think I will need the sensor to be particularly accurate inside of 4 feet so that should work.

I really like the idea of the sign's individual Numerical Bowling Pin Numbers counting down to the STOP location. That would probably require more output pins than an Arduino Uno has so I'm starting to read up on Shift Registers. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing but it sounds like Shift Registers would allow me to get around the Arduino Uno's Output Pin limitation.

Best regards,

Scott

"charlieplexing" should get you where you need to go, will be fun project


link here

 

[sbosecker]

Scott, just wanted to say I'm glad you had fun at your reunion and that you are posting again from the LBG. Hope all of your family are well with all that is going on now. Take care and keep the updates coming...

Jay

Jay,

Thanks for stopping by and the well wishes! I hope all is well with you and yours also. We're taking the virus thing pretty seriously. I'm trying to stay home as much as possible and the incredibly dramatic reduction in Delta Air Line's business has made that easier to accomplish. I've only got about 4-1/2 months till my retirement. I'm wondering if I may have already had my last flight with passengers.

Good luck to us all!

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

"charlieplexing" should get you where you need to go, will be fun project

LutzTD,

Thanks for that link! That looks like that would probably work for the "countdown" idea.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

Friday - March 20, 2020



Got out to the shop with the lawnmower today.






Time to get the machine ready for another season. I positioned it over the "Tornado Shelter" and started draining the oil. Tomorrow I'll get the blades off for sharpening & hit all the grease zerks. I would have done that today but an Amazon Van with the new Microwave Magnetron arrived.

It was pretty funny... the driver walked down the driveway with the package in hand. I came out of the shop and approached her and asked with a smile, "Which way is the wind blowing?" We were still a good 15 feet apart and we both stopped. She asked where I wanted the package and I told her she could sit it on the driveway were she was. As she turned and headed back to her van I called out a "thank you for making the delivery". She acknowledged the thank you and told me to "be safe".

I then moved forward to get the package.

Such are the times we live in.






I took the package into the shop and sat it next to the microwave. I already had the innards exposed. The Black Arrow points to the original Magnetron; the White Arrow points to a metal shroud that has to come off to remove the Magnetron; the Red Arrow points to some red wires that will become an issue later - note the blue fan blades protruding from the white plastic shroud.






For a little sanity check, I checked the original Magnetron again for continuity between a power tab and the Magnetron's case. It was still showing that there was a connection between those probes.

I checked the new Magnetron and was relieved that my multimeter showed an open circuit.






Old Magnetron on the left; new Magnetron on the right. The new Magnetron is Panasonic Part # 2M210-M1KLP and it was about $80 from Amazon.






Here's how everything looked just prior to be starting to install the new Magnetron. Other than having to be a little careful not to cut my hands on the edges of sharp sheet metal, the reassembly was pretty straight forward.


Continued in next post...


KEYWORDS: Panasonic NN9850 Microwave Magnetron Replacement

 

[sbosecker]

Continued...





I got everything back together and plugged the power cord into the wall receptacle.

Hmmm... the display didn't appear. That's not good. I unplugged the microwave and checked the main fuse with the multimeter. It checked out OK.

I plugged in the power cord again and then tried to set the clock. Now I had a display. I got a small glass of water and set inside the microwave. I sat the timer for 30 seconds and hit the start button...

...it began operating but there was a constant, pretty loud, buzzing noise. I quickly hit the stop button and looked inside at the components near the Magnetron. It took me about 30 seconds before I noticed that the Red Wires near the fan were positioned so that they could be beaten by the blades of the fan. That was where the buzzing noise had come from.

I moved the wires clear of the fan and restarted the machine. It now operated smoothly with a pleasant humming noise and warmed up the glass of water.

Victory!

I put the cover back onto the microwave and brought it to the house.






My wife helped me get the Microwave back into position in the cabinetry. I decided to leave the trim off for the time being to make sure the microwave was going to work.

I'm glad I did that because a bit later I noticed that the light bulb inside the microwave was not working. It wasn't working in the LBG either but I hadn't noticed it then.

The Owner's Manual is silent on the topic of replacing the light bulb. After doing some Internet research it appears that replacing a light bulb in one of these things is quite the production. In order to replace the bulb, I basically have to get the machine in the same state of disassembly that I had it to replace the Magnetron.

I've ordered a light bulb. It should be delivered next week some time.


Scott

 

[sbosecker]

Saturday - March 21, 2020





About 11 hours after ordering a new light for the Microwave, I was warming up some water for my morning coffee and found that the light was now working.

Weird.

I suspect a version of a poltergeist (a noisy mischievous spirit) that deals with light instead of noise is responsible (a sheinengeist?). I am reasonably confident that as soon as I reattach the trim to the cabinet the light will go out again. HA!

Shop time today was spent on the Honda Lawnmower. It's just about ready for another season.

Scott

 

[drivesitfar]

SB: it will be nice to have a spare light bulb for your microwave if you remember where you put it when that other one finally quits working. funny that it stopped working and then worked.

I love my honda small engine tools (weedeater, pressure washer) and I had a lawnmower that worked great for 25 years until i decided to use a 70 year old push mower to mow our yard and eliminate gas and noise and get some exercise.

yep try living in the city if you think our new normal is crazy. watching people line up to go in grocery stores with masks and gloves on has me usually turning around and saying did I really need something in that store.

take care and I hope that you get to fly again and that it's safe to do so.

in the meantime keep on doing what you do at Lone Beech.

cheers

 

[sbosecker]

SB: it will be nice to have a spare light bulb for your microwave if you remember where you put it when that other one finally quits working. funny that it stopped working and then worked.

I love my honda small engine tools (weedeater, pressure washer) and I had a lawnmower that worked great for 25 years until i decided to use a 70 year old push mower to mow our yard and eliminate gas and noise and get some exercise.

yep try living in the city if you think our new normal is crazy. watching people line up to go in grocery stores with masks and gloves on has me usually turning around and saying did I really need something in that store.

take care and I hope that you get to fly again and that it's safe to do so.

in the meantime keep on doing what you do at Lone Beech.

cheers

DrivesItFar,

It was going to be a pain to install the new light bulb so I'm OK with the new one being a spare. As you pointed out, the trick will be finding the spare when I need it in the future.

The Honda Lawn Tractor I have was made in the early 90's. I really like it but, at some point, it will need to be replaced. A specter of things to come is the official "Honda" blades are getting pretty pricey. I'm sure that, in the not too distant future, the blades will become unobtanium.

The one thing I am confident of is that the virus will have run it's course before Christmas and, I would suspect, probably before Labor Day. Other than the assurance that this isn't the "new normal", that doesn't help that much in the short run.

Be safe!

Best regards,

Scott

 

[Lotusnut]

As you pointed out, the trick will be finding the spare when I need it in the future.

Scott

Is there room to tuck the light bulb in under the microwave behind the trim? That way it is there when you need it and you have to take the trim off to change the bulb anyway.

Best regards
Rob

 

[sbosecker]

Sunday - March 22, 2020


I've been mentally noodling around a bit with the Fort Sackville Bowling Alley sign. I wanted to know how much light it would take to properly illuminate the various "Lamp Holes" that are on the back of the sign.






This afternoon I realized that the IKEA JANSJÖ LED Work Lamp I built would probably help me sort that out. There are 41 separate "Lamp Holes" in the back of the sign. I turned on the Magnetic Base and attached it to one of the 2-Post Lift Arms. This allowed the light to support the sign as it leaned against it.






I took a picture of the sign with the Work Lamp illuminating each of the "Lamp Holes" for the numbers, the Strike X, the "Red Foul Bar" and a couple of Triangles in the upper corners. I then photoshopped those individual elements into a single image (first picture). The second picture is the same concept with some of the elements from the first picture removed and a couple of the "Arrows" illuminated and added in. The last picture is of one more of the "Arrows" by itself. There are several "Arrows" and I've only illuminated the "pointy" part of 3 of them. I think the "Arrows" may have been illuminated when the bowling pins were being raked to the rear of the alley.

The IKEA Work Lamp did a pretty good job of illuminating the "Lamp Holes" if I added some diffusing material. The Lamp is advertised to be 3-tenths of a Watt so that gives me an idea of what kind of LEDs I'm going to have to used to make my 2-Post Lift vehicle position scheme work.

Scott

 

[Matt Johnson]

... I think the "Arrows" may have been illuminated when the bowling pins were being raked to the rear of the alley.

Is it possible that these are used with beginning/novice bowlers to help show them how to "pick up" things like splits?
I'm not very well versed with bowling, a casual player in late teens/early 20's, but that was my thought when you first showed the illumination pattern.


Sorry if the following comes off a bit "sappy", but after having a grandfather that was a hobby pilot & spending many afternoons with him as a youngster at PAE (Boeing - Everett Plant's field) I have a great admiration & appreciation for any pilot.

I sincerely hope that you are able to cap off your commercial pilot career with a final flight.
I'm not sure what the current &/or Delta's practice is, but I can remember many years ago as a young passenger (pre-teen) on a pilot's final flight the great impression the celebration had on me.
From experiencing the pilot coming through the cabin to great applause to the Water Salute during taxi to arrival gate.
It has held with me over the years that these special people, like yourself, have a high level of responsibility in every move they make & as such need to be praised & celebrated.
My hat is off to you, thank you for your hard work protecting & serving the people of this planet while in your care.

Matt

 

[Black95Z28]

These usually show the pins that are still standing after your first ball. This helps with "sleepers" (pins hidden behind each other) and like you said, assisting with picking up the spares.

 

[LutzTD]

Sunday - March 22, 2020


I've been mentally noodling around a bit with the Fort Sackville Bowling Alley sign. I wanted to know how much light it would take to properly illuminate the various "Lamp Holes" that are on the back of the sign.






This afternoon I realized that the IKEA JANSJÖ LED Work Lamp I built would probably help me sort that out. There are 41 separate "Lamp Holes" in the back of the sign. I turned on the Magnetic Base and attached it to one of the 2-Post Lift Arms. This allowed the light to support the sign as it leaned against it.






I took a picture of the sign with the Work Lamp illuminating each of the "Lamp Holes" for the numbers, the Strike X, the "Red Foul Bar" and a couple of Triangles in the upper corners. I then photoshopped those individual elements into a single image (first picture). The second picture is the same concept with some of the elements from the first picture removed and a couple of the "Arrows" illuminated and added in. The last picture is of one more of the "Arrows" by itself. There are several "Arrows" and I've only illuminated the "pointy" part of 3 of them. I think the "Arrows" may have been illuminated when the bowling pins were being raked to the rear of the alley.

The IKEA Work Lamp did a pretty good job of illuminating the "Lamp Holes" if I added some diffusing material. The Lamp is advertised to be 3-tenths of a Watt so that gives me an idea of what kind of LEDs I'm going to have to used to make my 2-Post Lift vehicle position scheme work.

Scott

looks good, seems like a pretty large LED, but it is hard to say with your lighting conditions. sure is a nice light holder It would be really cool to see the hardwired "logic" it took to light the recommendation arrows!

 

[sbosecker]

Scott

Is there room to tuck the light bulb in under the microwave behind the trim? That way it is there when you need it and you have to take the trim off to change the bulb anyway.

Best regards
Rob

Rob,

That's a pretty good idea!

The only flaw in that plan being me forgetting that until AFTER the NEXT replacement bulb arrived - at which point I would take the trim off and find the stashed bulb. HA!

Still, I think I'm going to go with your scheme as I'm pretty sure there will be room to do that.

Thanks!

Best regards,

Scott

 

[drivesitfar]

SB: another option is to just CHANGE THE OLD BULB with the new one cause you know there is some sort of defect with it already?

take care and always love looking in on your projects.

cheers

 

[sbosecker]

Is it possible that these are used with beginning/novice bowlers to help show them how to "pick up" things like splits?
I'm not very well versed with bowling, a casual player in late teens/early 20's, but that was my thought when you first showed the illumination pattern.


Sorry if the following comes off a bit "sappy", but after having a grandfather that was a hobby pilot & spending many afternoons with him as a youngster at PAE (Boeing - Everett Plant's field) I have a great admiration & appreciation for any pilot.

I sincerely hope that you are able to cap off your commercial pilot career with a final flight.
I'm not sure what the current &/or Delta's practice is, but I can remember many years ago as a young passenger (pre-teen) on a pilot's final flight the great impression the celebration had on me.
From experiencing the pilot coming through the cabin to great applause to the Water Salute during taxi to arrival gate.
It has held with me over the years that these special people, like yourself, have a high level of responsibility in every move they make & as such need to be praised & celebrated.
My hat is off to you, thank you for your hard work protecting & serving the people of this planet while in your care.

Matt

Matt,

I am humbled by your comments. Thank you very much for the kind words.

The "final flight" ceremony still takes place ...well, at least it did.
We'll see what happens but, due the current situation, it may be that my "final flight" celebration may be more sedate retirement affair with friends and family firmly on the ground.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

looks good, seems like a pretty large LED, but it is hard to say with your lighting conditions. sure is a nice light holder It would be really cool to see the hardwired "logic" it took to light the recommendation arrows!

LutzTD,

The world used to operate pretty well with mechanical cams & electrical relays to drive some pretty amazing stuff. You're right, it would be interesting to see just how those signs came to life.

I only bowled there once but I really don't think my mind was on what was going on as I was going to propose to my girlfriend that night at midnight and my 21st birthday party - fraternity brothers driving from all over to the Lone Beech Melon Farm - was going to be the next day. HA!

I looked at the Charliplexing stuff. The schematic shows resisters but I don't see them in the pictures or the video. I may try to put his schematic on a breadboard and then cut & past his sketch and see what happens.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

SB: another option is to just CHANGE THE OLD BULB with the new one cause you know there is some sort of defect with it already?

take care and always love looking in on your projects.

cheers

DrivesItFar,

There certainly is wisdom in your suggestion...

...but I think I'll just wait for it to die rather than drag the whole thing out to the shop again and tear it down to change the bulb.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

Wednesday - March 25, 2020



Yesterday I went out to the LBG's Woodshop and started taking measurements on the south wall. I was gathering information to allow me to order some duct work for the JET Dust Collector.






But first I needed to get it clear in my head what components were needed. This morning I went to the LBG's Upper Room and sat down at the Drafting Table. I used the measurements I had taken in the Woodshop to lay out how the duct would look.

I think I've got a good list of materials to order. I did get slowed down a bit when I looked at the catalog of the vendor (Blastgate.com) I intend to use and found that they listed a 45 degree lateral wye branch vs. the 30 degree I had seen at Nordfab. Blastgate makes a Nordfab compatible product for a more attractive price.

I returned to the Drafting Table to see if a 45 degree branch was an issue. While the 45 degree was OK (maybe better) going to the Drum Sander, it wasn't as good as the 30 degree for the Planer.

I emailed their sales department and they indicated they could make a 30 degree item for no additional cost.

Sweet!

I'm going to review my list one more time and then launch an order tomorrow.





Last week I had told my son about my Arduino adventures and he let me know he had some stuff left over from his time as a Georgia Tech Computer Science student. He said the would pull it out and bring it over for me to use. Tonight he brought it over and there's quite a few things I might be able to use for the Bowling Alley Sign project.

Several Arduino Nano clones and one Arduino Nano as well as some Arduino Teensy type items. All of this will be interesting to dig through and play with.






...Oh yeah - I almost forgot! The extra microwave bulb arrived today and it has been tucked under the microwave to be found by future generations. I'll probably get the trim kit reinstalled tomorrow.


Scott

 

[LutzTD]

you can also use individually addressable LEDs, these come in strips or individual, the shift register is built into the LED so you only need 1 output.

https://howtomechatronics.com/tutor...-individually-addressable-leds-using-arduino/

 

[sbosecker]

you can also use individually addressable LEDs, these come in strips or individual, the shift register is built into the LED so you only need 1 output.

https://howtomechatronics.com/tutor...-individually-addressable-leds-using-arduino/

LutzTD,

Good stuff!

The IKEA Work Light that I used to light the Bowling Alley Sign's Numbers is advertised to be 3-tenths of a watt. I've been trying to locate a LED of that power or perhaps a bit more but I haven't had much luck.

Do you know of a vendor that might have something like that?

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

Thursday - March 26, 2020

I had noticed last season that my lawnmower was not cutting the lawn evenly. My service manual gave information for setting the blades height. The trick was how to determine the settings the manual called for.






I put together an adjustable height gauge using a 1/4-inch bolt and some blocks glued together with a hole drilled through them. Using this tool I could compare the relative height of the front and rear of the blade and set it to the manual's specifications.

That task done I started this season's first mowing. I got about 5 minutes into it and the drive belt came off... I spent about an hour resolving that issue and then got back to the mowing.






While I was doing that a UPS truck arrived with the 5-gallon bucket of EvapoRust I had ordered some time ago.






I got a small plastic container and placed the rusty tractor carburetor in it to soak for the night. Hopefully that will help loosen up this carb's seized up innards.

Scott

 

[LutzTD]

LutzTD,

Good stuff!

The IKEA Work Light that I used to light the Bowling Alley Sign's Numbers is advertised to be 3-tenths of a watt. I've been trying to locate a LED of that power or perhaps a bit more but I haven't had much luck.

Do you know of a vendor that might have something like that?

Best regards,

Scott

I just bought some recently for a project, let me dig up the receipt and see where I found them. I believe the ones I bought were standard 5mm through-hole discretes, I think they will likely be more than bright enough for this project. The ones I bought are RGB, but that should still yield the light color you want.

heres the link addressable LEDs

standard .5W LEDs

link

 

[drivesitfar]

SD: best of luck designing and setting up your woodshop dust collection and i'm sure you'll have it up and working as you like soon.

how long did the last evaporust can work for and was it a gallon or another 5 gallon? I hope it de rusts all your new to you old tractor parts finds so you can save them and find more to save later.

i'm guessing you are happy you are not flying around with all this Corona in the mix, but hoping it will end soon so you can cause I know you'd like to make a few more flights before they hand you your gold watch.

take care!!

 

[AZpilot]

Rob,

That's a pretty good idea!

The only flaw in that plan being me forgetting that until AFTER the NEXT replacement bulb arrived - at which point I would take the trim off and find the stashed bulb. HA!

Still, I think I'm going to go with your scheme as I'm pretty sure there will be room to do that.

Thanks!

Best regards,

Scott

Use a sharpie to mark "spare bulb inside" on the side.

 

[sbosecker]

Use a sharpie to mark "spare bulb inside" on the side.

AZpilot,

I don't know if I'm sure of what you mean but you did give me an idea.

We keep the original manuals in a file drawer at the Kitchen's desk area. When I have a problem with something, I usually got to the manual first and see what information I can find relating to the problem. I'll make a note on the cover page of the manual regarding the spare bulbs location.

Thanks!

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

I just bought some recently for a project, let me dig up the receipt and see where I found them. I believe the ones I bought were standard 5mm through-hole discretes, I think they will likely be more than bright enough for this project. The ones I bought are RGB, but that should still yield the light color you want.

heres the link addressable LEDs

standard .5W LEDs

link

LutzTD,

Thank you!

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

...how long did the last evaporust can work for and was it a gallon or another 5 gallon? I hope it de rusts all your new to you old tractor parts finds so you can save them and find more to save later....

DrivesItFar,

My original purchase was a 3-1/2 gallon pail. I bought it in June 2018 so not quite 2 years. I've used it often but it's about used up. I may try straining the "stuff" out of it and see if that helps at all but I'm sure it doesn't last forever.

This time around the 5 gallon pail was the best "value". HA!

Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

Friday - March 27, 2020

I forgot to mention in yesterday's post that I had placed an order for the ductwork I needed. I was glad I "slept on it" as I remembered one item in the morning that I had forgotten and I found that I had incorrectly transcribed a couple items from the catalog to my list.

Those items are expected to be delivered late next week or early the following.






Late last night I decided to sit down and attempt to build the Arduino Charlieplexing example that LutzTD linked me to a few days ago. The picture is of my completed effort. I used one of the Arduino Nanos that my son brought over the other night.

Building this took a couple of hours so, as I tried to turn the schematic into hard wiring, I listened to Nanci Griffith songs. I learned of her last night when I tried to find a song called Across the Great Divide (Kate Wolf) on YouTube. Nanci’s cover was displayed first and I listened to it, and as I bent over my breadboard other songs she sang followed. Not a bad way to spend an evening and before I knew it, it was well after midnight.

VIDEO of the Charliplexed LEDs in action. I don't know where the geiger counter noises are coming from. I'm wondering if the electronics in front of my camera was inducing those noises into my recording.





This morning I pulled the Marvel Schebler TSV-13 Carburetor out of the fresh EvapoRust. The new material had done a pretty good job of cleaning off the rust but the moving parts were still frozen in position. I sat the carb on the table and squirted PB Blaster on the various items that were visible and that I thought would benefit from a patient application of that liquid.

I'll be doing this daily for a while.

Be safe everybody.

Scott


KEYWORDS: Charlieplexing

 

[LutzTD]

Friday - March 27, 2020

I forgot to mention in yesterday's post that I had placed an order for the ductwork I needed. I was glad I "slept on it" as I remembered one item in the morning that I had forgotten and I found that I had incorrectly transcribed a couple items from the catalog to my list.

Those items are expected to be delivered late next week or early the following.






Late last night I decided to sit down and attempt to build the Arduino Charlieplexing example that LutzTD linked me to a few days ago. The picture is of my completed effort. I used one of the Arduino Nanos that my son brought over the other night.

Building this took a few hours so, as I tried to turn the schematic into hard wiring, I listened to Nanci Griffith songs. I learned of her last night when I tried to find a song called Across the Great Divide (Kate Wolf) on YouTube. Nanci’s cover was displayed first and I listened to it, and as I bent over my breadboard other songs she sang followed. Not a bad way to spend an evening and before I knew it, it was well after midnight.

VIDEO of the Charliplexed LEDs in action. I don't know where the geiger counter noises are coming from. I'm wondering if the electronics in front of my camera was inducing those noises into my recording.





This morning I pulled the Marvel Schebler TSV-13 Carburetor out of the fresh EvapoRust. The new material had done a pretty good job of cleaning off the rust but the moving parts were still frozen in position. I sat the carb on the table and squirted PB Blaster on the various items that were visible and that I thought would benefit from a patient application of that liquid.

I'll be doing this daily for a while.

Be safe everybody.

Scott

excellent!

 

[sbosecker]

excellent!

LutzTD,

Charlieplexing...

I was pleased that I got it to work but I'm like a pig looking at a wristwatch... I like it but I really don't know what I'm looking at.

I don't know why this thing works at all... there's no ground wire.

The description indicated that the LEDs should light up in order. I assume that means the order they are listed in the schematic (LED1, 2, etc.)

They don't do this in the video because I had linearly reversed the Nano's output pins to the resisters. I fixed that after I posted the video so the blink sequence now correctly starts at LED1 & 2, correctly moves to 3 & 4 but then jumps out of sequence and lights up 7 & 8; then 11 & 12; then 9 & 10; finally 5 & 6; and then starts over.

Since I just cut & pasted the author's code, I'm trying to sort through that. I think the author is using C++ "stuff" that the Arduino website doesn't document. At the moment I'm trying to figure out how his array works.

I'm pretty sure I've got the breadboard wiring correct. It's probably good that it doesn't work perfectly... that's going to force me to learn some stuff in order to dissect the code and figure out why it is behaving as it is.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[LutzTD]

LutzTD,

Charlieplexing...

I was pleased that I got it to work but I'm like a pig looking at a wristwatch... I like it but I really don't know what I'm looking at.

I don't know why this thing works at all... there's no ground wire.

The description indicated that the LEDs should light up in order. I assume that means the order they are listed in the schematic (LED1, 2, etc.)

They don't do this in the video because I had linearly reversed the Nano's output pins to the resisters. I fixed that after I posted the video so the blink sequence now correctly starts at LED1 & 2, correctly moves to 3 & 4 but then jumps out of sequence and lights up 7 & 8; then 11 & 12; then 9 & 10; finally 5 & 6; and then starts over.

Since I just cut & pasted the author's code, I'm trying to sort through that. I think the author is using C++ "stuff" that the Arduino website doesn't document. At the moment I'm trying to figure out how his array works.

I'm pretty sure I've got the breadboard wiring correct. It's probably good that it doesn't work perfectly... that's going to force me to learn some stuff in order to dissect the code and figure out why it is behaving as it is.

Best regards,

Scott

I have confidence you will drive through it and build it, and enjoy the process as much as I will to see it. I am at heart a mechanical engineer, so electronics is smoke and mirrors for me. I fumble through and use the internet to full advantage. but I also have the added benefit of working for an electronics company, so if all else fails I have 15 guys I can ask. it is all second nature to them. I am careful to ask only one or two on any specific problem, otherwise, I get as many answers as people I ask and then its overload....... I have never used Charlieplexing myself, I have done a little with addressable LEDS

 

[sbosecker]

I have confidence you will drive through it and build it, and enjoy the process as much as I will to see it. I am at heart a mechanical engineer, so electronics is smoke and mirrors for me. I fumble through and use the internet to full advantage. but I also have the added benefit of working for an electronics company, so if all else fails I have 15 guys I can ask. it is all second nature to them. I am careful to ask only one or two on any specific problem, otherwise, I get as many answers as people I ask and then its overload....... I have never used Charlieplexing myself, I have done a little with addressable LEDS

LutzTD,

Well I sat and looked at the code that came with the CircuitDigest Charlieplexing article for a half hour or so this evening and I fixed it. I won't say I figured it out because I don't really know what I'm doing. I am reasonably good with pattern recognition so, after watching the project run on the breadboard while studying the code, I thought I knew what would solve the out-of-sequence issue.

If the following is substituted for the same section of code in the CircuitDigest code, my project lights up the LEDs in the proper sequence.


int matrix[LED_Num][2][4] = {
// --------------PIN_CONFIG------------------PIN_STATE
// -----A---------B--------C-------D----------A------B-----C-----D
{ { OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT }, { HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW } },
{ { OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH } }

};

After doing that I started experimenting with the project a little more. The way this project is set up I assumed that one of the 2 LEDs on each "branch" would have to be ON and the other OFF.

Nope.

They both can be off but, so far, I don't think they both can be on.

Still goofing around with it.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[LutzTD]

LutzTD,

Well I sat and looked at the code that came with the CircuitDigest Charlieplexing article for a half hour or so this evening and I fixed it. I won't say I figured it out because I don't really know what I'm doing. I am reasonably good with pattern recognition so, after watching the project run on the breadboard while studying the code, I thought I knew what would solve the out-of-sequence issue.

If the following is substituted for the same section of code in the CircuitDigest code, my project lights up the LEDs in the proper sequence.


int matrix[LED_Num][2][4] = {
// --------------PIN_CONFIG------------------PIN_STATE
// -----A---------B--------C-------D----------A------B-----C-----D
{ { OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT }, { HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW } },
{ { OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT }, { LOW, LOW, HIGH, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, HIGH, LOW, LOW } },
{ { INPUT, OUTPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { HIGH, LOW, LOW, LOW } },
{ { OUTPUT, INPUT, INPUT, OUTPUT }, { LOW, LOW, LOW, HIGH } }

};

After doing that I started experimenting with the project a little more. The way this project is set up I assumed that one of the 2 LEDs on each "branch" would have to be ON and the other OFF.

Nope.

They both can be off but, so far, I don't think they both can be on.

Still goofing around with it.

Best regards,

Scott

I drew it graphically and it aligns with what you have. basically with 4 outputs you have 4 sources and each source can be connected in two directions. I did the matrix the other day just to see what it looked like.

connect pins
ab +-00
ba -+00
ac +0-0
ca -0+0
ad +00-
da -00+
bc 0+-0
cb 0-+0
bd 0+0-
db 0-0+
cd 00+-
dc 00-+

after I thought about it a little, I think you can have 2 or 3 on at the same time if they are sharing the same positive, like ab,ac,ad but this gets very complicated and would be set up by the way you wire it and which lights you would want as groups, I think this would not yield good results

if you want complete control of all LEDs independently it might be better to go back to shift registers or the addressable LEDS, shift register and addressable LEDs have duty cycles that will dim the lights some. you might also consider an output expander board LINK and just do it with matching number of outputs

 

[sbosecker]

...after I thought about it a little, I think you can have 2 or 3 on at the same time if they are sharing the same positive, like ab,ac,ad but this gets very complicated and would be set up by the way you wire it and which lights you would want as groups, I think this would not yield good results

if you want complete control of all LEDs independently it might be better to go back to shift registers or the addressable LEDS...

LutzTD,

I used the term "branch" when I probably should have written "paired LEDs". By definition, I don't see how it's possible to have LED 1 & LED 2 (or 3 & 4; 5 & 6; etc.) on at the same time.

I'd probably prefer the versatility of being able to control each LED independently but we'll see where this project goes.

Best regards,

Scott

 

[LutzTD]

LutzTD,

I used the term "branch" when I probably should have written "paired LEDs". By definition, I don't see how it's possible to have LED 1 & LED 2 (or 3 & 4; 5 & 6; etc.) on at the same time.

I'd probably prefer the versatility of being able to control each LED independently but we'll see where this project goes.

Best regards,

Scott

I think you could get 1, 2 or 3 on at the same time as long as you pick three from the same group, you cant do multiples across groups. I have been looking at the expansion boards and that seems like a good solution, I am looking through my pile of stuff to see if I have one already

 

[drivesitfar]

SD: once you figure out how to light up that sign I bet you can wire up a cockpit in a small plane that might be fun to fly back and forth from your place to the old LONE BEECH to visit dad.

between the two of you that sign should be almost a computer soon.

keep up the good work!!

 

[sbosecker]

SD: once you figure out how to light up that sign I bet you can wire up a cockpit in a small plane that might be fun to fly back and forth from your place to the old LONE BEECH to visit dad.

between the two of you that sign should be almost a computer soon.

keep up the good work!!

DrivesItFar,

I've thought that getting involved in general aviation might be nice for the very reason you mention... trying to visit dad more often. I don't think I'd build a plane though... let along wire one. HA!

I was Captain on an MD88 in the late 90's and we went lost comm for a little while due to an intermittent shorted wire. That would probably happen more often with anything I wired up.

I'll probably start experimenting with the distance sensor for the sign project in the near future.


Best regards,

Scott

 

[sbosecker]

Monday - March 30, 2020

Got out to the shop this afternoon for a bit which allowed me to goof around with a couple of small things.






The 3-1/2 gallon pail of old EvapoRust has a screen basket that is useful. I probably should just get rid of the old EvapoRust but I decided to filter it into a 5 gallon bucket that I can put a lid on for the time being. I then cleaned up the 3-1/2 gallon bucket in preparation for de-rusting some of the recently acquired Allis-Chalmers Model G Tractor parts. The shield for the flywheel was too large for the screen basket but I got all the other bits into the bucket for an overnight soak in fresh EvapoRust from the 5-gallon pail.






I did have a small breakthrough today. The Marvel-Schebler TSV-13 Carburetor that was frozen up became less so. I've been walking into the shop the past few days and squirting a little PB-Blaster on the (formerly) moving parts facing upward. Today that yielded some results as the Choke Valve could be moved.






It's still a mess in there but at least it's a mess that can move. I turned the carburetor on it's other side and squirted all the moving bits that were facing up. Hopefully I'll have similar luck with the Throttle Valve in a few days.


Scott