The Machine Work Thread

[larry_g]

Here's the finished product. I was hoping to get the slot in the screw to line up with the bar, but it didn't work out that way. Still happy, though!

.

If you want to line up that slot you can figure it out.

Divide the pitch into one to get travel per turn of the fastener. Divide travel per turn / 360 to get travel per degree of turn. Figure the degrees it needs to turn and remove that from the thickness of the handle or from under the screw head.

example if that is a 1/4-20 thread

1/20 = .050"

.050/360 = .000138" per degree

it looks like you need ~120 degrees so

120 x .000138" = .0167"

So remove that amount and your inline. Or you can figure a spacer that will cause the screw to not turn so far.

That is a nice looking handle.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[whateg01]

If you want to line up that slot you can figure it out.

... Or you can figure a spacer that will cause the screw to not turn so far.

That is a nice looking handle.

lg
no neat sig line

Thanks, yeah. I was thinking about a shim. There's not much edge to get ahold of to turn much off the face, er, back of the screw head.

Dave

 

[matt_i]

Great job making the crank handle for the 10EE, that machine is my alltime favorite tool.

 

[whateg01]

Great job making the crank handle for the 10EE, that machine is my alltime favorite tool.

Thanks! A buddy has one and had been trying to get me to buy one for awhile. I had an old 10" that had been doing the job, but was ready to upgrade. Didn't want to spend the $3k+ for a 10ee, but this one came up on CL not running. I swapped out the motor/gen and DC motor for a 3ph and VFD. Just need to get the backgear in it again. This ball crank was the first test of the radius turning tool I made. I still need to make a new ball crank for the compound and TS.

Dave

 

[stioc]

Nice work guys. @whateg01, the ball crank turned out great!

 

[whateg01]

Nice work guys. @whateg01, the ball crank turned out great!

Thanks! It seems I spend more time making tools to make or fix other stuff than I do the other stuff that I'm supposed to be making! But it's all fun, or at least most of it, so it's okay. I don't know what I would do if I couldn't tinker!

Dave

 

[whateg01]

Here are a couple of other things...

The radius turning tool. It cuts beautifully.

These jacks were the second thing I made with the radius tool, right after the ball crank. I actually bought the Starrett top sections off ebay for little money and made the rest to fit. It was kind of a design it as you go thing, so the second one has a knurl, which I like a lot better.

Ya know, I just remembered, this was actually the reason for the radius turning tool. You can see chatter marks in the jack to the left from the form tool I was trying to use. Think huge cutting area! The radius tool worked much smoother.

 

[stioc]

Thanks! It seems I spend more time making tools to make or fix other stuff than I do the other stuff that I'm supposed to be making! But it's all fun, or at least most of it, so it's okay. I don't know what I would do if I couldn't tinker!

Dave

Ha! I think in one form or another we all feel your pain! I started in the 90s with the idea that DIY will save me money (and it'll be fun) doing basic things like oil changes etc. I probably own $15k+ worth of automotive+fabrication tools alone Then came woodworking, then machining...and then all the tooling/acquisitions to organize, improve the tools and machines themselves

But my goal/hope is that when I'm done with the rat race, all these tools will give me a hobby/purpose in my retirement years.

Here are a couple of other things...
<snip>
Ya know, I just remembered, this was actually the reason for the radius turning tool. You can see chatter marks in the jack to the left from the form tool I was trying to use. Think huge cutting area! The radius tool worked much smoother.

Very cool! I made a ball turning tool that also works well but I like your's because it fits in the tool post. I'll have to add that to my 'to-make' list.

 

[b-dog]

Here are a couple of other things...

The radius turning tool. It cuts beautifully.

Those look fantastic! I've had a radius tool on my to-do list for too long.

 

[whateg01]

Those look fantastic! I've had a radius tool on my to-do list for too long.

Thanks!

I had one on my list for years, but never could figure out a way to get around the height of the compound without mounting directly to the bed or taking the compound off. I never liked the ones that look like a tuning fork because I couldn't imagine how it could be rigid enough to do a decent job. Finally, I needed one bad enough that I decided to fix the weakness in that design by leaving the weak part full width. So, this has a bar that clamps into the tool holder and groove in the vertical part of the radius too, minimizing flex.

Dave

 

[unclemoak]

I was working the last few evenings to make an adapter to mount a 5" three-jaw chuck to my 6" rotary table. I'm almost finished, just have to added a few mounting holes.

 

[red94chev]

Aluminum endcap for an electric motor.

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[stioc]

Nice work on the chuck adapter. The end-cap looks good too, is that a pressed in sleeve for a bearing?

 

[stioc]

Fixture plate with dowel-pin holes as well as threaded screw holes.

 

[red94chev]

Nice work on the chuck adapter. The end-cap looks good too, is that a pressed in sleeve for a bearing?

That actually is the bearing pressed in.

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[stioc]

Ah, nice work!

 

[whateg01]

Used the ELSR on my 10ee for the first time since I've had it. Made turning a 14 tpi thread to a runout next to a shoulder a breeze! I don't know how I single pointed threads before. I was living like a barbarian. But, the locking screws for the cams and the stop adjustment are square headed and if you put a regular wrench on the cams it tends to turn the control rod. So, I made a tee handled wrench to do all of that. No pics in process, but it's just a 6" long 3/8"-drive with the male end cut off and turned down to fit into the pieces I made for a handle.

Dave

 

[Hephaestus29]

Here’s a picture of my project for class this
semester.
It's just a steel blockmeasures 1x2x3
It's within .0005 from
one corner to the next on flatness.
And dead on or only off by
.0005 on the thickness
and length and width.
Had to drill and tap two holes
turn a bushing and press it in
then install a stud and cut and file to
.130 above surface.
Then I lapped it in a bit to get it real
close to the dimensions but if really wasn’t
necessary since there wasn’t a call out for
surface finish and tolerances on the dimensions
were .015 and .005 on the hole locations.

 

[Hephaestus29]

Dang I forgot the picture.

 

[kazlx]

Made this this a little bit ago. Don't think I posted it. A stop for my Jet 1018 band saw. I've been thinking of whipping one up for the HF saws.

 

[KMScott]

Made this this a little bit ago. Don't think I posted it. A stop for my Jet 1018 band saw. I've been thinking of whipping one up for the HF saws.

Very nice kazlx. I see you milled the hex and drilled out the corners, same way I do it.

 

[kazlx]

Yea, I try to tuck the drill holes in tighter than the points so it's not as obvious and looks a little cleaner.

 

[Nelson58]

Very nice stop for the Jet band saw. If you do one for the HF, can you outline how you did it? Thanks,

Nelson

 

[stioc]

Yea, I try to tuck the drill holes in tighter than the points so it's not as obvious and looks a little cleaner.

Top notch work as always!

 

[red94chev]

A little pulley puller and some copper chassis weights for my friend that races RC cars.

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[stioc]

Nice work red94chev!


A short speeder wrench for the vise...but really just another excuse to try and make something. More pics in my thread.

 

[red94chev]

Nice work red94chev!


A short speeder wrench for the vise...but really just another excuse to try and make something. More pics in my thread.

Thanks man. That's a pretty slick idea, I like the speeder.

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[stioc]

Thanks!

I realized with all the action the mill has been getting I'd been ignoring the mistress lately so... I made a knob for the speeder wrench.

You probably can't tell but this whole thing (the wrench including) is made kinda sloppily and out of wrong material for the job. I'm calling this a rough proof of concept to prove to myself that if I had to make one to save my life I probably could but mostly that if I had several hrs to kill I can make all sorts of useless stuff

 

[whateg01]

...

You probably can't tell but this whole thing (the wrench including) is made kinda sloppily and out of wrong material for the job. I'm calling this a rough proof of concept to prove to myself that if I had to make one to save my life I probably could but mostly that if I had several hrs to kill I can make all sorts of useless stuff

I don't always set out to do so, but I build a lot of prototypes!

Dave

 

[stioc]

^ haha yeah I guess it comes with the territory. I got a chance to use the speeder wrench a couple of times today and while I can't torque the vise down with it but to spin it open/close it actually surprised me how fast it is to use compared to the big heavy u-joint one.

Today I made a tool holder for the tool post grinder (a flex shaft for the Dremel in my case). Only tried it once and it worked great. Can't wait to use this tool more for very fine cutting and grinding work. I got the idea from Rob

 

[Balor]

Hi stioc just a quick question, what type of DRO are you using?

rngr1

 

[Bears Fan]

Stioc

Nice job on the vise handle

 

[stioc]

Hi stioc just a quick question, what type of DRO are you using?

rngr1

I got two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LOBCMCS/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Cheap and they work. I really like having the DROs on the lathe, prob the best mod to the lathe so far behind the QCTP.

Stioc
Nice job on the vise handle

Thanks! I'm just an amateur hack. I love your shop thread btw, one of the handful I follow here

 

[whateg01]

Bought a little 6" craftsman lathe for the bed. Parting out the rest, but it's all in pretty good shape. But I want to clean it all up before selling off the pieces.

The bushing for the tailstock quill screw was kind of messed up. It was in there tight and it looks like somebody had tried to take it out before. I couldn't get it to budge, so I milled flats on it and put a wrench on it. Then it came out nicely. I replicated most of the original features, but gave it a better surface for a tool to remove it.

It was also missing most of the pieces for the tailstock quill lock. I don't know what the original method was. Maybe the piece of aluminum that I found in the bore was it, but it didn't seem right, so I made a true split cotter and new hardware to hold it in place and lock it down.

Afterward, I blued all of the new steel parts and shined them up.

Hopefully, whoever ends up with this tailstock enjoys the new parts!

Dave

 

[matt_i]

Dave: fantastic work on the handle, repair, etc! It looks like you are getting a lot of use out of the radius attachment I really like the blued finish

 

[whateg01]

Dave: fantastic work on the handle, repair, etc! It looks like you are getting a lot of use out of the radius attachment I really like the blued finish

Thanks! It's funny how a tool sometimes becomes the focus of your attention. I had a couple of things to make recently where I needed it, then was like, I should make this other thing, too, and this, and fix that, etc. I started bluing a bunch of the parts I make awhile back. They make a blackening kit, I guess, but IIRC, it's more expensive. Might try it one day, though. I think it gives the parts a more finished appearance.

Dave

 

[stioc]

4-bolt compound slide mount for my 9x20 lathe. More info and pics in my RF30 conversion thread.

[/url]

Comparison old vs. new:

 

[stioc]

Once the lathe mod was done I started on the wheel cone for the newly acquired wheel balancer. The taper angle on the other cones that it came with was 12deg. However, the actual angle isn't very important as the bore diameter and the faces.

I only had alum stock in 2.5 dia, which should be good enough for home use. I started by cutting a slug off the bar stock.

Turned the 12deg taper, drilled the center hole and bored it out to .01 over the measured shaft diameter, I figured once the alum cooled off it would be closer to .008 over and make for a nice slip fit.

I parted it off, first by trying to use the parting tool but that thing ***** (kinda like the brazed carbide boring bars! anyone have suggestions for better boring bars?). Anyway, I sawzalled it off. Then flipped the part around, indicated off the bore to .001 and faced it off.

Nice and easy slip fit without any obvious play and the machine reads zero imbalance when spun without a tire. Sweet!

 

[b-dog]

So, I'm stumped. Is this a class 1A screw? My customer brought the screw which I couldn't figure out at the time but my best guess was 9/16-18 but the diameter was too small. The threads on the screw look normal, not worn. I just tapped a 9/16-18 hole and it's LOOOOOOSE. Even class 1A has a minimum major Dia of. 548. I ruled out metric as the pitch would have to be 1.4 - metric folks are smarter than that.

There's a short video of me wiggling it back and forth on my IG
https://www.instagram.com/p/BjJDbyHFi8x/

Thoughts? This is a new one for me.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Maybe someone threaded the screw with a die set too tight, cutting undersize.