kazlx
Well-known member
Nice job on the drawbar.
The Machine Work Thread
- Thread starter Hephaestus29
- Start date
Im interested in your power draw bar too. It looks a lot beefier than most of the internet designs. Can you show how you activate it?
I have a p-trak that is just dying for one of these.
Kaz, I saw your gimbal on IG, I didn't know that was you. Pretty cool.
I have a p-trak that is just dying for one of these.
Kaz, I saw your gimbal on IG, I didn't know that was you. Pretty cool.
kazlx
Well-known member
Thanks. Yup that's me. Same name on every forum just different on IG haha.
Yeah I follow a bunch of socal fab guys, I have no access to that stuff in NJ.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Last night I finished up my new power drawbar for my milling machine. I fabricated one when I first got my new mill but I saw one that a guy (Collin @ Comp Edge X) fabricated and really liked his design, so I copied it somewhat. I liked his design because it was so much more compact as he used the air cylinder in the "pull" fashion rather than "push" so I was able to keep the overall height much less. I also went and machined some of the brass fittings rather than used over the counter ones purchased from my local hardware store.
Completed unit and bolted on the mill. Looks and works awesome.
That is real sweet Mike.
I was wondering how I could reach the drawbar on my Comet after I enclose it. I like your design.
I will be leaning on you when the time comes to build mine.
Thanks for posting.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
If you have the numbers handy where you can jot them down or send them later. This is just what I need because I can't hold the brake and turn the wrench at the same time because I can't reach the brake with my left arm. I would really appreciate it immensely.
Now that it just super sweet. I wonder how it would act if you had a set of bearings out of some junk hard drives of some computers? Those are some super bearings that have nearly no resistance at all.
kazlx
Well-known member
That's a good idea. The dowel pins work surprisingly well, especially for being inexpensive.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That is real sweet Mike.
I was wondering how I could reach the drawbar on my Comet after I enclose it. I like your design.
I will be leaning on you when the time comes to build mine.
Thanks for posting.
Claude, PM sent. Let me know if you have any issues reading the scanned drawings.
Kevin, PM sent. Let me know if you have any issues reading the scanned drawings.
Thanks for the comments guys, I appreciate it.
Mike.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The top of my Taiwanese mill looks very similar to most of the other BP clones but I am not certain of the bolt pattern, nor am I certain about the bolt pattern on an actual BP mill.
The design/style should work universally once it is bolted to the top of the mill. The Kurt style uses a similar butterfly style pneumatic ratchet but it uses a larger canister style air chamber that pulls the air ratchet downward onto the drawbar. The Kurt is also fully enclosed with a cover and costs upwards of $1k dollars.
Mike.
NASTYZEN
Well-known member
Thanks Mike,
Those drawings you sent will work. I'll make sure to check the hole pattern when I get there.
How does the air hookup work? What's the canister thingy and what does it do?
.
Need more shots of your setup.
What I really need is a holiday.
Thing a ma jigies I made lately.
Lots of the darn things..
Those drawings you sent will work. I'll make sure to check the hole pattern when I get there.
How does the air hookup work? What's the canister thingy and what does it do?
.Need more shots of your setup.
What I really need is a holiday.
Thing a ma jigies I made lately.
Lots of the darn things..
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
I'm going to look at a millport sat. With a
Bridgeport head, i might be interested
In your plans also. Very nice work by the way.
Bridgeport head, i might be interested
In your plans also. Very nice work by the way.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks Mike,
Those drawings you sent will work. I'll make sure to check the hole pattern when I get there.
How does the air hookup work? What's the canister thingy and what does it do?
Need more shots of your setup.
No problem Claude. I didn't document the controls on this build because they were shown on my previous power drawbar. I have attached a link to the thread that shows my original setup. The canister is actually a pneumatic cylinder with a 1" stroke. On my original design the air cylinder was up on top and pushed downward on the assembly. This one the air cylinder mounts parallel to the impact gun and I used the opposite port of the air cylinder so it pulls the top place and impact down onto the drawbar.
It is on page 4 of my shop projects about half way down. Basically I removed the back half of the pneumatic butterfly impact gun and machined a block to bolt it to. That is what controls the air flow to the body of the impact gun on the top of the mill.
I hope that makes sense.
I also did a youtube video of it but my son is still editing it so it is not on my channel yet.
Mike.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If I can help you out shoot me your email and I can send you the drawings that I have. They aren't much, they are merely hand written drawings, wish I had a CAD program, but you are welcome to them.
Mike.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Ok thanks i appreciate it. H
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Last night I finished up my new power drawbar for my milling machine. I fabricated one when I first got my new mill but I saw one that a guy (Collin @ Comp Edge X) fabricated and really liked his design, so I copied it somewhat. I liked his design because it was so much more compact as he used the air cylinder in the "pull" fashion rather than "push" so I was able to keep the overall height much less. I also went and machined some of the brass fittings rather than used over the counter ones purchased from my local hardware store.
Here are my preliminary drawings for the base plate and top plate along with all of the ports and screw holes for the butterfly air gun.
Top plate roughly layed out. I will get exact once I put it on my mill table and indicate off measurements exactly using the DRO.
Top plate machined to size and drilled/tapped for the butterfly air ratchet.
Bottom plate machined to size and drilled for the mounting location as well as the holes drilled and countersunk for the vertical guide rods. Also pictured are the guide rods.
Guide rods mocked into position. Bronze and brass in the background to be used for the bushings and the "tees" for the fittings.
Completed unit and bolted on the mill. Looks and works awesome.
If anyone is interested here are my two videos that I made while machining my new power drawbar.
Here is Part 1
Here is Part 2
Mike.
dcmus
Well-known member
A great thread! A group I didn't see mentioned is madmodder.net an English group which is very cordial and welcomes newbys
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks. I agree it is a time saver. I can shoot you a mesage with the drawings.
Mike.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
I just bought a new to me Mill. It's a Comet with a Bridgeport head. 10x50 table.
I posted pics in the New Tool Arrivals.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4622271&posted=1#post4622271
I posted pics in the New Tool Arrivals.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4622271&posted=1#post4622271
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice. That looks like a big-un. Is it is a 10x54? Looks a bit larger than a 9x49 and it is hard to tell but it appears to have boxed ways.
Mike.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Thanks it's a10x50
383 240z
Well-known member
Here is my latest project. These are made on a CNC lathe. Cycle time is 59 seconds each. It could be 43 seconds but the customer is super **** about burrs so there are a few extra de-burring passes in the program. The material is 316 stainless. I have no idea what they are, or what they are for, but I have to turn 90,000 of them!!! Keith
Sorry the pics are a bit out of focus, that is the best I could get with my phone in the poor lighting. Keith
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
ZEE......if you want a design program, look into DeltaCad. www.deltacad.com I have used it for quite a few years now and I love it. It's very simple to use once you get the main gist of what the icons are. And with your machining capabilities, I know it wouldn't take anytime for you to figure it out. They have a 30 day free trial, then it is something like $40. I bought it to use at work for designing tooling and turned a lot of others onto it. With your machines, and your machining capabilities, I think it could really benefit you to keep things on file. Just an idea and my $.02 worth on things.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
ZEE......if you want a design program, look into DeltaCad. www.deltacad.com I have used it for quite a few years now and I love it. It's very simple to use once you get the main gist of what the icons are. And with your machining capabilities, I know it wouldn't take anytime for you to figure it out. They have a 30 day free trial, then it is something like $40. I bought it to use at work for designing tooling and turned a lot of others onto it. With your machines, and your machining capabilities, I think it could really benefit you to keep things on file. Just an idea and my $.02 worth on things.
Kevin, thanks for the info. I am definitely going to check that out.
I really appreciate that, as well as the compliment.
Mike.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
If you do download the 30 day trial and have any questions, let me know and I can walk you right through them. I have used a couple of different programs that we had at work, and it was either hard to use it to draw, or hard to use it to dimension. DeltaCad gives you the best of both. After a few days on it, it is a breeze to use. I can either walk you through questions on the internet or walk you through it over the phone on my dime.
And again.....beautiful work!!!!! I may have to put you right up there with A_PMech
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you do download the 30 day trial and have any questions, let me know and I can walk you right through them. I have used a couple of different programs that we had at work, and it was either hard to use it to draw, or hard to use it to dimension. DeltaCad gives you the best of both. After a few days on it, it is a breeze to use. I can either walk you through questions on the internet or walk you through it over the phone on my dime.
And again.....beautiful work!!!!! I may have to put you right up there with A_PMech
Thanks Kevin, I really appreciate that.
Trust me though, I am not in the same league as A_PMech though, but I appreciate the compliment.
Mike.
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Is there not any Milling required in the turning operation or does your CNC lathe have milling capabilities too ?
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
I was thinking of buying a Jewelry Box/Chest for my instruments & small items like indicators, edge finder, etc. instead of an expensive machinist chest. I've seen all different kinds of them on Craigslist, mens & womens stained oak, painted black etc. some plain & some lined very nice on the inside for very reasonable money instead of a very expensive machinist chest.
Does anyone think I'm nuts or fruity for this ?
Does anyone think I'm nuts or fruity for this ?
383 240z
Well-known member
If that was aimed at me, yes the Swiss machines have milling capability. I don't get a chance to run them often. I am able to make code changes, but in reality, I just monitor the parts coming off them, and call a programmer when I start getting near the tolerance limits.
I was moved off my regular machines because one was down with a dead clutch, my other machine was not wanting to repeat due to a problem with the stock stop cam.
I'll be back on them Monday. I have a neat jobs running on both of them. I'll post pics then. Keith
OP
Hephaestus29
Well-known member
Kind of sounds like where I work, i just
mainly keep the parts on size, if anything
major needs to be reprogrammed they
call the engineer
383 240z
Well-known member
That is only when I'm on the CNC and Swiss machines. When I'm on the screw machines its my run. I can make any changes I see fit that will increase production. Keith
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
My tape measure doesn't have small enough numbers for that kind of work!
Duker
Well-known member
If you do download the 30 day trial and have any questions, let me know and I can walk you right through them. I have used a couple of different programs that we had at work, and it was either hard to use it to draw, or hard to use it to dimension. DeltaCad gives you the best of both. After a few days on it, it is a breeze to use. I can either walk you through questions on the internet or walk you through it over the phone on my dime.
And again.....beautiful work!!!!! I may have to put you right up there with A_PMech
Kevin, we need you to join Mike in making some videos!
endmill
Well-known member
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
This hardly warrants being posted in this thread, but I turned a little flange to extend an intake manifold I wanted to run on my shovelhead that was too small.
Coma....any fabrication warrants being posted in the Fabrication Forum. You may not think it is much, but it may just be enough to give someone an idea that will save them some big money, or get the wheels turning for a project of their own. Simple or complicated, fabrication is fabrication, and no one should feel left out or that what they do is not worthy. Just something simple like removing a broken screw is worth enough to help many members out. And with a broken screw, there are a few ways to do it, but if no one answers a members question on how to possibly do it, then that person might have to shell out some big bucks. Ideas are ideas brother, and ideas are potential money savers
That is what this site is about.....helping others.....ideas or otherwise
383 240z
Well-known member
Here is what I've been making for the last few days.
It's a wear sleeve. They get heat treated then gets pressed into an aluminum part. An axle rides in them. I have no idea what the final assembly looks like. Made 8600 of them today. The tolerance on that part is +- .002 I am tired of making these teeny little parts. Keith
It's a wear sleeve. They get heat treated then gets pressed into an aluminum part. An axle rides in them. I have no idea what the final assembly looks like. Made 8600 of them today. The tolerance on that part is +- .002 I am tired of making these teeny little parts. Keith
macgyver37
Well-known member
Keith, I am kinda tired of working on big parts. Seems like all I have done the last couple months are parts that are bigger than my machine table.
I don't have a pic of them, but I ran 1030 ft of a profile cut out of 1 3/4" dia Nylatron bar stock. I machine a T shape out of the round. They of course are 10 ft long pcs and my table is only 8ft, so I made some extensions and such to get the done.
I also just got done making 400 ft of UHMW chain guides like the curved pcs I showed earlier in the thread, they are also 10 ft long.
Another over 8ft long part I did was these black pcs, they are just over 9ft at 112" long. This particular part used repro UHMW as it was on the waste side of the poultry plant line and didn't need to be food safe. This particular one they gave me the gray one as a sample and I had to measure it and go from there. This one I was able to go diagonal on the table and cut it that way.
I don't have a pic of them, but I ran 1030 ft of a profile cut out of 1 3/4" dia Nylatron bar stock. I machine a T shape out of the round. They of course are 10 ft long pcs and my table is only 8ft, so I made some extensions and such to get the done.
I also just got done making 400 ft of UHMW chain guides like the curved pcs I showed earlier in the thread, they are also 10 ft long.
Another over 8ft long part I did was these black pcs, they are just over 9ft at 112" long. This particular part used repro UHMW as it was on the waste side of the poultry plant line and didn't need to be food safe. This particular one they gave me the gray one as a sample and I had to measure it and go from there. This one I was able to go diagonal on the table and cut it that way.
