The Machine Work Thread

[macgyver37]

This was a cool repair job I did awhile back. A local ice cream/burger joint has been in business for 50+ years and their soft serve machine is out of production and no parts are available anymore. The problem he had was the plastic manifold that the ice cream comes out of broke out in a certain spot and it made the machine unusable. The part has Orings to seal the manifold to the machine and the edge that held the Oring broke. So I decided the only way to fix it was to machine out the bad part and make a new ring to hold an Oring on both sides of it.

I rigged up a way to clamp it on my rotary table on my mill and cut the bad spot out and I machined a new Delrin ring with the Oring groove on both sides and made it a slip fit so it could come out for cleaning but not fall out. It uses the same Oring on both sides and is a stock item at NAPA in case he needs new ones.

It was nerve racking to machine on the old part when there were not any others to be found. In the next to last pic you can see where the edge was chipped out in the original part.

Got it going that day and it allowed him to open back up for the season, still works good over a year later.

 

[sanddan]

Very nice Mike! Great job!



Yup, I love every single one of my Nogas! Can't ever have too many, still a couple more on my wish list.

You sir are a Tool Alcoholic.

I mean that in the best sense of the word.

Also, your posts have cost me a BUNCH of money. Keep up the good work.

 

[yaidunno]

There was a time when i made locks from some chunks of brass...

 

[sanddan]

Im interested in your power draw bar too. It looks a lot beefier than most of the internet designs. Can you show how you activate it?

I have a p-trak that is just dying for one of these.

Kaz, I saw your gimbal on IG, I didn't know that was you. Pretty cool.

If you don't mind, but what's "IG"?

 

[darkzero]

You sir are a Tool Alcoholic.

I mean that in the best sense of the word.

Also, your posts have cost me a BUNCH of money. Keep up the good work.

Haha, thanks. Sorry about that, happens to me too on this forum!

If you don't mind, but what's "IG"?

I'm guessing instagram?

 

[davewo]

In reference to what are good machinist message boards: I like the Hobby Machinist. It's a great place for regular dudes to be introduced to machining and machines. The Pratical Machinist is horrible for regular decent people. I go on it often, but only to keep up with the business side of manufacturing, and I probably haven't posted anything in the past 10 years or so.

As for myself, I have many glamour shots of past work. I used to work for a small outfit making non-destructive testing (NDT) equipment. I loved everything but the pay. I was one of two "manual" guys doing the short runs, 2nd ops (finishing stuff off a cnc), and prototyping. Probably the best perk was working on my own stuff in my own time. Unfortunately this is a no-go where I work now. Although I have a couple tackle boxes full of "sample" parts from my current job, I have no pictures... yet. But here's a few pictures of stuff from my NDT days. Each part was completely made by me. I didn't bother taking pictures of all the other stuff I didn't 100% machine. Main equipment: Sharp vertical mill with Prototrack retrofit and Monarch 10ee lathe.

 

[DocsMachine]

How about parts for a double-barreled paintball gun?

I made every piece shown, on manual machines.

Doc.

 

[zmotorsports]

How about parts for a double-barreled paintball gun?

I made every piece shown, on manual machines.

Doc.

Nice. Beautiful work.

Mike.

 

[zmotorsports]

In reference to what are good machinist message boards: I like the Hobby Machinist. It's a great place for regular dudes to be introduced to machining and machines. The Pratical Machinist is horrible for regular decent people. I go on it often, but only to keep up with the business side of manufacturing, and I probably haven't posted anything in the past 10 years or so.

As for myself, I have many glamour shots of past work. I used to work for a small outfit making non-destructive testing (NDT) equipment. I loved everything but the pay. I was one of two "manual" guys doing the short runs, 2nd ops (finishing stuff off a cnc), and prototyping. Probably the best perk was working on my own stuff in my own time. Unfortunately this is a no-go where I work now. Although I have a couple tackle boxes full of "sample" parts from my current job, I have no pictures... yet. But here's a few pictures of stuff from my NDT days. Each part was completely made by me. I didn't bother taking pictures of all the other stuff I didn't 100% machine. Main equipment: Sharp vertical mill with Prototrack retrofit and Monarch 10ee lathe.

Damn, that is some amazing, small work.

I like Hobby-Machinist as well. Pretty good people over there.

Mike.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Some very professional accomplished work there guys. Thanks for posting.

Maybe should of put this in the sheet metal projects but it's more machine related I guess.

Inspiration.


Where I'm at. In enclosing my Mighty Comet.



Looks like I'll have to be making myself one of those auto drawbar tools soon. I'll be leaning on Mike, aka zmotorsports when I get there.Still lots more to do, but the worst is over.

 

[saceone]

^^looks awesome! much better than when I visited !

 

[zmotorsports]

Some very professional accomplished work there guys. Thanks for posting.

Maybe should of put this in the sheet metal projects but it's more machine related I guess.

Inspiration.


Where I'm at. In enclosing my Mighty Comet.



Looks like I'll have to be making myself one of those auto drawbar tools soon. I'll be leaning on Mike, aka zmotorsports when I get there.Still lots more to do, but the worst is over.

That looks awesome Claude.

Mike.

 

[wyo george]

Today's task is a little hairy. I'm machining the internals on a valve that's just a tick over six feet tall. Needless to say, small cuts and slow speeds!




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[NASTYZEN]

Hoa! That's big machine work. It must be interesting to look at that large mass revolving.

Guys, I need a little help with feeds and speeds. I was going to PM Kevin but thought it might help others if I asked here instead.

I need to machine some Type 2 Titanium on the mill.

I am using a 4 flute 1/2'' dia. Carbide end mill.
The chart tells me I need to have a speed of 323 fpm and feed .003'' ips

How the heck do I calculate this?
All this time I've been playing by it ear like someone who's illiterate.
I'm sorta math dyslectic.
Can someone explain this formula in a way I can understand it once and for all.

Thank's

 

[Kevin54]

Hoa! That's big machine work. It must be interesting to look at that large mass revolving.

Guys, I need a little help with feeds and speeds. I was going to PM Kevin but thought it might help others if I asked here instead.

I need to machine some Type 2 Titanium on the mill.

I am using a 4 flute 1/2'' dia. Carbide end mill.
The chart tells me I need to have a speed of 323 fpm and feed .003'' ips

How the heck do I calculate this?
All this time I've been playing by it ear like someone who's illiterate.
I'm sorta math dyslectic.
Can someone explain this formula in a way I can understand it once and for all.

Thank's

Slow and lots of lube. Also if you have to drill it, be very careful as titanium will swell shut on a drill or reamer, and snap them off in a split second.

What are you going to run it on? A CNC or a hand mill, and what type?

 

[bullnerd]

If you don't mind, but what's "IG"?

Sorry, just saw this, like was said, Instagram. Great way to follow some really talented people from around the world...including KAZ.

 

[A_Pmech]

I need to machine some Type 2 Titanium on the mill.

I am using a 4 flute 1/2'' dia. Carbide end mill.
The chart tells me I need to have a speed of 323 fpm and feed .003'' ips

How the heck do I calculate this?

325 FPM is the peripheral speed. The end mill circumference will be 3.14 * 1/2 = 1.57" there are 12 * 325 = 3900 inches in 325 feet.

3900 / 1.57 = 2485 RPM.

Each revolution the tool should take 4 chips .003" thick. So, .003 * 4 * 2485 RPM = 29.8 inches per minute feed.

 

[NASTYZEN]

325 FPM is the peripheral speed. The end mill circumference will be 3.14 * 1/2 = 1.57" there are 12 * 325 = 3900 inches in 325 feet.

3900 / 1.57 = 2485 RPM.

Each revolution the tool should take 4 chips .003" thick. So, .003 * 4 * 2485 RPM = 29.8 inches per minute feed.

That seems so fast!

I roughed the part already with an indexable end mill, if thats the proper term for it. I now need to make a finish pass on the outside contour with this 1/2'' mill. I left .015" And the hight of the part is .850".
All this on the Cnc mill.

 

[A_Pmech]

That seems so fast!

I roughed the part already with an indexable end mill, if thats the proper term for it. I now need to make a finish pass on the outside contour with this 1/2'' mill. I left .015" And the hight of the part is .850".
All this on the Cnc mill.

I would normally expect a speed in the 150 - 200 FPM range for general milling of Ti, but with a light finish pass you can normally increase the speed. I'd start out around 150 FPM and speed override from there.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Thank you much A Pmech!
I shall try it with a rpm of 2400 and feed of 12ipm if I got the calculation right.
I'll post up the results as soon as I get some

 

[A_Pmech]

Thank you much A Pmech!
I shall try it with a rpm of 2400 and feed of 12ipm if I got the calculation right.
I'll post up the results as soon as I get some

I would start out slower than that and speed override up if it's cutting OK. There's never any harm starting out a little slow, there's always harm starting out too fast. TI and many stainless alloys generally finish great no matter how low the speed, unlike mild steel or aluminum.

I would start at 150 FPM which is 1150 RPM and 13.8 IPM at .003 / tooth.

Remember that in tough to machine materials taking a chip becomes more important. The window between a feed rate too heavy to keep the end mill in one piece and a feed rate too light to allow the end mill to cut narrows substantially.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Yes!
1150 and ended up at 12 feed. Cut like butter.
Thanks a bunch again. I shoulda posted when I was struggling with 44W stainless a while back.



After I make another of the above. I have to make 4 of these.

 

[Hephaestus29]

I've been cleaning up my new to me Mill and I'm wondering, do you think I should buy way covers made more specific to my machine or should I just make them using rubber sheet ? I can't seem to find any for my machine specifically.

It's a Comet, and it has dovetail ways on the column, and square ways where the table/saddle sits on the knee.

After spending several days cleaning it up, I'd like to keep most of the chips out of the places I just got them out of.

 

[zmotorsports]

I've been cleaning up my new to me Mill and I'm wondering, do you think I should buy way covers made more specific to my machine or should I just make them using rubber sheet ? I can't seem to find any for my machine specifically.

It's a Comet, and it has dovetail ways on the column, and square ways where the table/saddle sits on the knee.

After spending several days cleaning it up, I'd like to keep most of the chips out of the places I just got them out of.

I have generally used the ones more specific to the equipment and have been quite satisfied with their fit and function. I know there are many that make their own but at work time was always a factor so we just bought the ones specific to our equipment.

On my previous little machine at my home shop I just used some felt for the wipers on the lathe carriage and that worked well.

Mike.

 

[longlivepunk]

Made this today in some free-time at work. This bearing-puller is made for bicycle suspension bearings, and the end is destroyed so the bike shop where I occasionally work asked me to make a new one. Bought $3 worth of hex-stock (and have half left over)



What threads into it:



The tool together, with the old part. Still have to cut the slots, that'll happen tomorrow.

 

[Matt Irvine]

This one I didn't machine, but helped bore the hole for the shear pin.




Finished these nice little shafts.


Rebored this scraper gizmo


Target rifle sight extensions





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[Hephaestus29]

Finally got my mill off the pallet today. I had to take the harbor freight electric winch off since it wasn't up to the task and install two 1 ton chain hoists. Most of the weight was on the front chain hoist though.

Prior to today I have been cleaning it thoroughly.
I also installed my own design of way covers made from EPDM, it's not quite finished but here's what I did:
I found a local commercial roofer that sold me some rubber for 20.00 that was waaay bigger than what I needed.
I cut out a piece about 4'x6' & used the bottom of a sheetrock bucket for a pattern to cut out a hole in it. Then I pulled it over the head, moved the ram all the way forward, then stretched it over the back of the ram & pulled it down over the column it's a very nice tight fit. I cut out the rubber way bigger than what I needed on purpose since this is my design and I have never seen anyone else do it like this, so it's a trial & error kind of fit.
This main piece that's stretched over the column will connect to the saddle, Then I'll have a separate piece connected to the table that will run the full width of the table. So as you run X back & forth the knee ways will always be protected.
I still have to fix a piece to go on the front side of the table/saddle but that's another day or weekend.

 

[zach540]

Still working on learning metal working, been using my converted G0704. Some of the first parts I've made on it for the power drawbar and belt drive.

 

[kazlx]

https://scontent-sea.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11011083_10153272514084168_6635213154549072988_n.jpg?oh=9f44f51bebbd4cf79670046164a61749&oe=55DF00B9

 

[longlivepunk]

Got to play around doing some eccentric turning on Tuesday.

 

[zmotorsports]

Got to play around doing some eccentric turning on Tuesday.

Nice. Just playing around or is it for something specific?

Mike.

 

[longlivepunk]

Just for fun. I'm in school right now, so this is one of the things they had us try.

 

[longlivepunk]

I have a question for you knowledgeable gents: I've been building my bike-repair stand, it's almost ready, but needs a slot cut. Here's an idea of what's going on...

After the slot is cut the portion on the left will be welded on as well, the cylinder in the middle will slide up and down a post for height adjustment and rotation, and so I need a slot through the half-circle on the right to allow it to clamp to said post:



So for now it sits like this, and the slot will go where the red line is, and will have to go right through that side of the cylinder.



Ideally I'd use a slitting saw (hoping for a 1/8" - 3/16" slot) but I'd have to buy a brand-new cutter that I'd probably never use again, and money is tight right now. Any other ideas for getting a slot that width with a decent finish? I'd like it to be straight and square. Throw out any ideas regardless of equipment required, I have potential access to quite a range of equipment.

Thanks guys!

 

[kazlx]

I think I might have a slitting saw you can have if you want to make an arbor.

But yes, that's a slitting saw job.

 

[ez-duzit]

Most professional looking job would be the slitting saw. But a well tuned metal cutting bandsaw could do it, using a fixture to hold it and a shallow, centered groove to get it started dead center.

An abrasive disc might do a fair job if fixtured properly.

 

[kazlx]

You could also make a mandrel and go to town with a thin abrasive cutoff wheel.

 

[zmotorsports]

Above posters are right, a slitting saw would be ideal and I understand the though that you may never use it again. However, I think you would be incorrect, I use them alot and once you have one I would imagine you would find more uses.

The next two choices I have actually used as well in a pinch where I have not had access to my mill: vertical bandsaw and a pneumatic die grinder with a .035" abrasive disk (cutoff disk). Then just deburr and your done, providing the tube is close enough in size to the one it will slide on then you will have enough clamping clearance. If there is too much variation in tubing sizes it may not give enough clamping force.

Mike.

 

[longlivepunk]

Thanks for the responses, guys! Kazlx, thanks for the offer! I'll just go buy one, though. Shipping it to Canada would be a pain. [emoji14]

The only reason I haven't already bought one is that right now the only horizontal mill I have access to is at school, that's why I said I'll only get 1 use. I guess it will just be another reason to get a mill! "I have this $60 saw that never gets used! Better go get a $5,000 mill" seems justified.

Mike, there's 0.005" clearance right now between the post and the clamp, so 1/16" band saw blade would probably work, but I wanted the extra in case the material springs in a bit when it's cut. (Can always shave the post down a bit more) Thanks again, guys!

 

[zmotorsports]

I posted this in my Shop Projects thread but thought I would throw it on this thread as well.

I purchased an inexpensive 3-jaw 6" chuck and a blank backing plate last summer for putting on my 8" rotary table and it has been sitting on my workbench ever since because I haven' t had time to mess with it. I have a couple of handlebar clamps that I need to machine for a customer/friend and I need the rotary table chuck setup so now is as good a time as any to machine my adapter backing plate.

Here is the mess after the lathe work is completed and just prior to removing the backing plate from the 4-jaw chuck.

Turning and facing processes completed and ready to drill the mounting holes. The step is .001" smaller than the backside of the chuck so it will self center onto the plate.

Chuck test fit onto the plate to ensure self-centering. I got a little cocky here but I should have test fit it prior to removing it from the lathe. Had my measurements been off I could have been chucking it back up in the lathe to make a skim cut. Luckily everything fell together perfectly. Another reason I probably shouldn't work this late at night.

Vise removed from mill table and the backing plate clamped down locating the center. I have it spaced off the table so I can drill through without hitting the table. Using my handy, dandy modified Noga/IndiCol DTI holder. Works awesome. You can also see the DRO that I have zero'd after locating center.

Three chuck mounting holes drilled. The bolt hole circle function in the DRO flat ROCKS!!!

I used a .375" end mill and countersunk for the socket head capscrews to sit just below flush.

Next I flipped the adapter over and plugged the dimensions into the DRO for the four bolt hole pattern to match the slots in the rotary table.

Four bolt pattern drilled and countersunk with a .625" end mill.

Completed sitting on the rotary table.

Now that my 3-jaw chuck is mounted on my rotary table I can move on to the actual paying job that I needed this for. Oh well, at least it is off my bench and crossed off my list of things to do and is readily available when I have the next job come in requiring the chuck and rotary table.

Mike.

 

[kazlx]

Thanks for the responses, guys! Kazlx, thanks for the offer! I'll just go buy one, though. Shipping it to Canada would be a pain. [emoji14]

The only reason I haven't already bought one is that right now the only horizontal mill I have access to is at school, that's why I said I'll only get 1 use. I guess it will just be another reason to get a mill! "I have this $60 saw that never gets used! Better go get a $5,000 mill" seems justified.

Mike, there's 0.005" clearance right now between the post and the clamp, so 1/16" band saw blade would probably work, but I wanted the extra in case the material springs in a bit when it's cut. (Can always shave the post down a bit more) Thanks again, guys!

You don't need a horizontal mill, you can use a slitting saw in any mill. IMO you can easily slit that with a 0.040 cutoff saw. Just go slow so it doesn't wander. Band saw would be good too if setup correctly.