The Machine Work Thread

[zmotorsports]

thanks, i like that directional pattern as well. I dont know how much time and effort hes going to put into tidying up this one, he's got this one plus another old rim he wants cut to put on the inside of the dually, then he's ordering 4 more new Alcoa wheels to cut that will be the visible ones.

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Gotcha, that makes more sense although he may end up having to install longer wheel studs. They usually aren't long enough to accommodate the thickness of two aluminum wheels as the inside dual is generally steel.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Gotcha, that makes more sense although he may end up having to install longer wheel studs. They usually aren't long enough to accommodate the thickness of two aluminum wheels as the inside dual is generally steel.

Thanks I'll pass that info onto him, something tells me he's already got aluminum rims all the way around, but I'm not certain of that.

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[Jim Johnstone]

Finished rim, still need to break edges and buff up a bit.

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[whateg01]

Looks nicely done! What kind of truck is this going on? Is this one of those conversions where 22.5 are mounted to an F350 or something similar?

Dave

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Looks nicely done! What kind of truck is this going on? Is this one of those conversions where 22.5 are mounted to an F350 or something similar?

Dave

Yep, 3500 series GM truck, can't remember if it's a Silverado or a Sierra, same thing anyway.

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[Bigblue&Goldie]

The pattern turned out great! If you could do the factory Ford Alcoa's you would make a small fortune.

I assume you model the wheel in CAD to create the pattern?

 

[whateg01]

Yep, 3500 series GM truck, can't remember if it's a Silverado or a Sierra, same thing anyway.

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Can't see much of a risk there, then. No more than putting a stock wheel with all the adapters on. That truck will never have the load of a tractor-trailer on it.

Dave

 

[Jim Johnstone]

The pattern turned out great! If you could do the factory Ford Alcoa's you would make a small fortune.

I assume you model the wheel in CAD to create the pattern?

yes I drew it up as a 2d sketch for now. I'm going to email Alcoa and see if I can get them to send me a 3d file of the rim and add my pattern into it, that way I can have accurate representation of the profile, and can program in a 3d chamfer for the edges.

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[4 FN 27]

yes I drew it up as a 2d sketch for now. I'm going to email Alcoa and see if I can get them to send me a 3d file of the rim and add my pattern into it, that way I can have accurate representation of the profile, and can program in a 3d chamfer for the edges.

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I'll be absolutely floored if they send you the Model.

It would make life so much easier if you could get the Models. I have reverse engineered thousands of parts over the years.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I'll be absolutely floored if they send you the Model.



It would make life so much easier if you could get the Models. I have reverse engineered thousands of parts over the years.

You'd be surprised how much luck I've had requesting models. I've had AP racing send me brake caliper models, ohlins send me shock body models, Hewland send me gearbox models etc.

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[budget76]

Kazlx, whats the overall dimensions of the wallets? how many cards fit flush? Didn't see details on the website, I may have missed them. any new materials in the works or is the website up to date?

about due to replace mine, but trying to avoid going up in size. Current one is pretty small even with 7 cards in it. Tempted to support if it fits my wants/needs size-wise. Think this fits in the thread since they were discussed a couple pages back

 

[4 FN 27]

You'd be surprised how much luck I've had requesting models. I've had AP racing send me brake caliper models, ohlins send me shock body models, Hewland send me gearbox models etc.

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Yep I get it...but most are so reluctant. Then you go to "GrabCad" and you have no idea if the file is good.

McMaster is really good at supplying Models which helps...

I did get a Model of the 2007 Dodge Avenger Body while working on a Project for Don Ness Racecraft...that was like pulling teeth.

Another big one I got involved with was an Oil Pan design for the Olds DRCE3 Block. Wasn't able to get the Model of the block but did get a Blue Print from Chevrolet Racing that was about 16 feet long x 4 feet wide. That helped...LOL...

 

[Jim Johnstone]

Yep I get it...but most are so reluctant. Then you go to "GrabCad" and you have no idea if the file is good.

McMaster is really good at supplying Models which helps...

I did get a Model of the 2007 Dodge Avenger Body while working on a Project for Don Ness Racecraft...that was like pulling teeth.

Another big one I got involved with was an Oil Pan design for the Olds DRCE3 Block. Wasn't able to get the Model of the block but did get a Blue Print from Chevrolet Racing that was about 16 feet long x 4 feet wide. That helped...LOL...

yeah grabcad is definitely sketchy, Gotta love getting massive prints to work from!

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[kazlx]

Kazlx, whats the overall dimensions of the wallets? how many cards fit flush? Didn't see details on the website, I may have missed them. any new materials in the works or is the website up to date?

about due to replace mine, but trying to avoid going up in size. Current one is pretty small even with 7 cards in it. Tempted to support if it fits my wants/needs size-wise. Think this fits in the thread since they were discussed a couple pages back

I usually roll about 9-10 cards, plus can squeeze cash in there. Shoot me an email through the website, a DM here or on IG @Randomfabrication. Don't want to clutter the thread here.

I do have some others besides the site I haven't listed. Just been really busy with normal work job and job shop stuff.

Size is roughly 2.4 x 3.6 x .425. Just a smidge bigger than cards.

 

[kazlx]

Who needs a lathe? Not this guy. Some prototype parts for a guy.

 

[Hephaestus29]

I rebuilt my Albrecht drill chuck over
the past few days after work. I
watched Tom Liptons rebuild video
and that got me going on it. I used a
piece of lead sheet to break the hood
loose, I didn’t have any copper sheet
like Tom used. The lead flashing worked
great.
It was absolutely filthy on the inside,
I don’t believe it had ever been apart.
It works great now.

 

[Jim Johnstone]

I rebuilt my Albrecht drill chuck over
the past few days after work. I
watched Tom Liptons rebuild video
and that got me going on it. I used a
piece of lead sheet to break the hood
loose, I didn’t have any copper sheet
like Tom used. The lead flashing worked
great.
It was absolutely filthy on the inside,
I don’t believe it had ever been apart.
It works great now.

Thanks for the inspiration, ive got 2 or 3 Rohm keyless chucks that need service.

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[Toolmaker51]

Any decent chuck is worth cleaning; keyless or not.
I've had keyed chucks improve more than keyless, the former hides a lot behind leverage of the key. Soak standing up in kerosene/ Stoddard first, to see what falls out on it's own. Sometimes it helps to close and open a few times as well.
Chucks subject to water-mix coolant, I lube with boat trailer wheel bearing grease.

 

[Hephaestus29]

I figured I’d post my final pics. here in
the machine work thread instead of the
repurpose thread since I have more
machine work in it than repurpose
probably.
It took sawing the steel, then milling
it to exact length, drilling and tapping
holes, welding, and a little wood work
too. It has 5, 2x6 supports underneath,
and 7, pieces of 1x6 red oak on the
Headboard
I still have to put the Saw Blade on
but you can see what it looks like.
I was thinking of giving the sawblade
and bolts that hold the wood on the
headboard an antique copper look.

The Uprights are steel from what used
to be Two Soloflex machines, that’s
the repurpose part.

 

[whateg01]

I figured I’d post my final pics. here in
the machine work thread instead of the
repurpose thread since I have more
machine work in it than repurpose
probably...

That's pretty sweet! I need to get moving on my bed design now!


Dave

 

[Hephaestus29]

That's pretty sweet! I need to get moving on my bed design now!


Dave

Thanks. I started working on it a year
ago, I was still in school at the time, so
I could only work on it a little at a time
up until recently since I finished school.

 

[whateg01]

Local makerspace uses several material stands. One of these is Craftsman labeled, one appears to be from HF, and the third, who knows. All three failed in the same way. It should be noted that community tools always take a lot of abuse because, hey, it's not mine. But all of these are pretty cheaply designed. Two just had threads formed in the place where the hole was made. The third had a nut welded on. But it didn't matter. The threads were buggered in all of them. The same might happen to my fix, but for now, they work well.

The only real machine work was turning one of the sockets down to fit in the 3/4" hole and making the 3/4" hole at a 10 degree angle, but that counts! Oh, I also turned the end of the threads down to a dog point so that maybe as the end mushrooms, it won't get so bad we can't unscrew it.

I made them so that the handle can be positioned in any direction when tight. Some may prefer them solidly attached to the screw, but I'm doing this, so it's my way. Some people also don't like the fact that the knobs on the ball cranks on my lathe all spin now, but too bad!

Dave

 

[Monza Harry]

Local makerspace uses several material stands. One of these is Craftsman labeled, one appears to be from HF, and the third, who knows. All three failed in the same way. It should be noted that community tools always take a lot of abuse because, hey, it's not mine. But all of these are pretty cheaply designed. Two just had threads formed in the place where the hole was made. The third had a nut welded on. But it didn't matter. The threads were buggered in all of them. The same might happen to my fix, but for now, they work well.

The only real machine work was turning one of the sockets down to fit in the 3/4" hole and making the 3/4" hole at a 10 degree angle, but that counts! Oh, I also turned the end of the threads down to a dog point so that maybe as the end mushrooms, it won't get so bad we can't unscrew it.

I made them so that the handle can be positioned in any direction when tight. Some may prefer them solidly attached to the screw, but I'm doing this, so it's my way. Some people also don't like the fact that the knobs on the ball cranks on my lathe all spin now, but too bad!

Dave

Dave had you considered a drop of braze on the end of the locking screw as well as your dog point? Then at least the brass will trash the thread a lot less that way when coming out. Harry

 

[whateg01]

Dave had you considered a drop of braze on the end of the locking screw as well as your dog point? Then at least the brass will trash the thread a lot less that way when coming out. Harry

I did consider that, or turning a small plug to go in the end of the bolt, similar to what's on my steady rest. In the end, this was a job that needed to get out of my way so I could get back to the job I should have been working on, so as much as it pains me, I did just enough. I am hopeful that this hardware, having more threads engaged and being of grade 8 bolts and nuts (albeit welded), will be a bit more resilient and will last a while longer. Time will tell!

Dave

 

[C91x]

Anyone know what this is? I get it some kind of rotary table but all the ones I've seen have a table with t slots

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[txvwnut]

It looks like the top is a separate piece that my unbolt to reveal a table with some sort of fastening provisions.

 

[whateg01]

I agree, that's a normal rotab with a fixture plate of some sort or faceplate attached.

 

[Hephaestus29]

Anyone know what this is? I get it some kind of rotary table but all the ones I've seen have a table with t slots

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Yeah that should definitely come off.
Looks filthy, like they were using it
for clay pottery or cement or something.

 

[zmotorsports]

Yeah that should definitely come off.
Looks filthy, like they were using it
for clay pottery or cement or something.

I was going to say sitting in a paint & body shop.

It will definitely need a good detailed cleaning, but if the price is right.

 

[C91x]

Tissue paper factory.

They had a small machine shop to support the manufacturing equipment.

I didn't get to run anything but I feel like I stole the bridgeport 2j and all the contents that were on this shelving unit. Now I just need to get this thing home

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[C91x]

And thanks for the replies

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[fartymarty]

I didn't get to run anything but I feel like I stole the bridgeport 2j and all the contents that were on this shelving unit. Now I just need to get this thing home

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I'm not 100% sure yet until I see more photos, but I think I hate you. Please post more photos so my hatred can start to percolate properly.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Judging by handwheel size, that is a import 8" horizontal & vertical rotary table. On the table, a subplate is mounted by what appear flathead screws. The subplate mounts a fixture, but that hardware is unclear.
If this was in a paper mill, this may have been used to work on end plates of rollers, perhaps bolt patterns. I can't guess accurately at purpose of what looks like a ball bearing, other than centering an inverted part.

 

[MushCreek]

Cutting a .530-13 thread for an old (1880?) park bench I'm restoring. The stretcher rod across the bottom has nuts on each end, and the remaining piece of the stretcher I got out was .530 diameter. The 13 pitch was accurate, though. I'm assuming it was meant to be a 1/2-13, just (very) poorly measured.

 

[Toolmaker51]

Regarding a 13 pitch thread; standardization is relatively new for fasteners, and really took hold for WWII for obvious reasons, supporting manufacturing and replacement [interchangeability] of parts. And right to this day, proprietary threads to suit manufacturers are seen. It's even possible the bench maker found a deal on off-sized rod stock, had his toolroom make .530-13 taps and there you are. Any day, cast iron of the bench would like coarse threads over fine.

 

[ez-duzit]

1/2-13 is common.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Cutting a .530-13 thread for an old (1880?) park bench I'm restoring. The stretcher rod across the bottom has nuts on each end, and the remaining piece of the stretcher I got out was .530 diameter. The 13 pitch was accurate, though. I'm assuming it was meant to be a 1/2-13, just (very) poorly measured.

I'm curious why you didn't make it to a standard thread for the next guy who may not have a lathe?

 

[MushCreek]

I wanted to use the original nuts. The stretcher consists of a long steel rod with threads on each end. There's a nut on the inside of each end, then the end casting of the bench, then the other nut tightened down over the outside. The rod had broken off many years ago. I soaked the thing in PB Blaster, and was amazed to be able to get the old hardware apart. I was able to measure the old piece of the rod. Considering the bench is between 120-150 years old, I doubt anyone will have to make a stretcher rod any time soon! Since the rod should be smooth except for the threaded part, it's a custom-made piece regardless. Here's a pic of the original piece of rod and the nuts that go on it.

 

[whateg01]

I'm curious why you didn't make it to a standard thread for the next guy who may not have a lathe?

On a restoration, I would have used the original threads, too.

Dave

 

[MushCreek]

I thought about opening the nuts up to a 9/16" thread. I used 5/8" hot rolled, so I had to turn the end down anyway, and as I said, I had to make a custom rod. I also don't know if I have a 9/16" tap. 5/8" wouldn't have fit through the holes in the castings. I'm kind of perverse about trying to make things as close to original as I can. Didn't cost me a penny more, and it makes for a more interesting story.

Lots of funky parts on this thing. I have a few of the original carriage bolts and nuts used to hold the wood on. They're also oversized; about .330" diameter. The square part of the shank is much longer than a modern carriage bolt. I bought new 'old style' carriage bolts and square nuts. They don't have any numbers or marks on the heads, and they're black oxide finish.

I got a coat of paint on it today, a mix of Hunter Green and flat black so it's darker and not as shiny. I still need to source some wood for the planks. They should be a full inch thick, based on a small scrap I saved form the old bench.