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Ign

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Jul 7, 2006
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Butte Peak ND
I like my cordless circ saws, but they arent Milwaukee nor are they full size (6" blade). I really only use them when I have small lightweight jobs to do (cutting 3/4 ply, a few 2x4s, etc), otherwise Id use a corded anyway.

While it would be really nice to have a cordless saw with corded power, I use it so infrequently Im not sure Id pay for it. Now if HD had a bundle that included it for free (which they do), well then maybe ;)

So my new favorite use for my 6.5" V28 is cutting up pallets in front of the shop wood stove. No cord cluttering the floor and not scary when it stalls rather than kicks back like my corded Skil 77. Pallets bind and pinch the blade a lot and its unnerving with a powerful corded saw.
 

pl_silverado

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Jul 1, 2005
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2,033
Location
West Bradford, PA
I was just at my local depot returning some stuff and wandered thru the tools section. Found one of the M12 combos with free battery laying in a cart. Price check came up at $ 129. Manager at customer service matched the $99.00 price from yesterday. So now I have two that I don't need to supplement my M12 Fuel Kit, lol. Guess I'll give one to the wife to use around the house.

YMMV
 

Wanna Ride

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Jul 28, 2010
Messages
2,790
I have the standard M18 circ saw, and love it.

Ever so often, I need to cut a couple boards for whatever project I'm working on, and don't really need/want to drag out the miter saw or the corded saw, and the M18 is perfect! If I had a need to use it all day, frequently, then maybe I would have sprung for the Fuel version.
 

Geek

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Nov 13, 2010
Messages
271
Location
8000'
Question about the Fuel impact drivers:

I have a Mercedes Sprinter that when I put the Steel wheels on the torque spec is 240n.m (177ft lbs).

For an impact I'm a fan of brushless technology.
It looks like the fuel options are:

M12: 2452: 1/4"
M12: 2454: 3/8"

M18: 2653: 1/4"
M18: 2764: 3/8"
M 18: 2763: 1/2"

Would any of the M12s be capable of handling these lug bolts reliably (all of my current stuff is M12).

If not.. what level of M18 do I need to go up to?
 

Ign

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Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
Question about the Fuel impact drivers:

I have a Mercedes Sprinter that when I put the Steel wheels on the torque spec is 240n.m (177ft lbs).

For an impact I'm a fan of brushless technology.
It looks like the fuel options are:

M12: 2452: 1/4"
M12: 2454: 3/8"

M18: 2653: 1/4"
M18: 2764: 3/8"
M 18: 2763: 1/2"

Would any of the M12s be capable of handling these lug bolts reliably (all of my current stuff is M12).

If not.. what level of M18 do I need to go up to?

I think you may have halfed the drive size of the the 2764 as its 3/4" no? The 2763 will laugh at 177 ft lbs, no sweat. Search for the reviews on Honda crank bolts.

Your options are a mix of brushed & Fuel. Many here seem to like the 2663 when the 2763 is either too powerful or too $$
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2663-20
 

TOOL FANATIK

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Bennington, VT
fe3f80cc356d10c54b7861d4294bb78c.jpg

3/4" chuck super hole shooter
 

spoon671

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Aug 31, 2014
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SFCA
I got neck-chopped by the handle of one of those many years ago. I learned really quick how to hold that thing correctly. ;-)
 

blatterjr

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Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
157
it's worth going into the store.

yesterday when i checked, one store had it listed at 129.99 and phone was 99. it rang up at 99 anyway.

and today when i purchased, website was back to normal at 169.99, the shelves in the store were still at 129.99 . and it still rang for 99...

best to go and have someone price check it.

Agreed.

Home Depot is the best place in my neck of the woods to purchase Milwaukee tools. Their website prices and the store prices vary considerably. I purchased the M18 jig saw and multi-tool for much less than the advertised price. They're having a XMAS sale atm.
 

Geek

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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
271
Location
8000'
After yesterday's input I'm needing a bit more from those who have:

I have an older milwaukee subcompact driver (non "impact") and I'm going to pick up the big 1/2" M18 fuel driver to do the lugnuts on my Sprinter (180 ft lb).

I'm also looking for a good all around "wood working" impact.
My M12 one doesn't have quite enough power (there are times it runs out of oomph) and the big 1/2" is going to be way over kill..

What's the good "middle ground" impact? Something that'll run lag bots into railway ties but still use able enough to run 3" screws into 2x4's without snapping the heads off?

The 1/4" drive M18?
The 3/8" M12 or M18?

I'm trying to figure out which would be best for the gap in my usage and I am a fan of brushless technology.

Thanks in advance.

p.s. I ordered his and hers heated jackets today. Can't wait for them to arrive!
 

Banshee365

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Joined
Jun 25, 2009
Messages
194
I just bought the 2763 1/2 fuel impact. It's crazy. I took it out to my old military trucks lugs with a 1/2-3/4 adapter for the huge socket. It took about 2 seconds to zip a lug nut off that's been on there for who knows how long. I put it back on and let it hammer on it for a half second or so. I checked the torque with a torque wrench and it was around 150.

This thing is a game changer for my auto repair hobby.
 

92integra

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Jul 11, 2013
Messages
857
What's the good "middle ground" impact? Something that'll run lag bots into railway ties but still use able enough to run 3" screws into 2x4's without snapping the heads off?
the m18 3/8ths is probably the one for running the lag bolts into rail way ties.... idk i don't do alot of that style work but i feel like anything like the 1/4 hex even m18 probably couldn't handle that task for very long
 
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kctyphoon

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Jun 9, 2014
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Jersey/Staten Island
My M18 fuel 1/4" hex impact driver takes the lugs off my Honda CR-V and f350 dually with no issue using a 1/4" hex to 1/2" square adapter.. It even took the axle nut off my Honda (37mm) It's very versatile.. The milwaukee shockwave adapters are great.. Makita has 1/4" hex to 3/8" & 1/2" square wobble adapters that are awesome too.
 

TOOL FANATIK

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Messages
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Location
Bennington, VT
the m18 3/8ths is probably the one for running the lag bolts into rail way ties.... idk i don't do alot of that style work but i feel like anything like the 1/4 hex even m18 probably couldn't handle that task for very long
No way pal that would be a task that the 1/2" may not even be able to handle...geek... Depending on how big your lags are, and how long. I'd say a 3/8x 3" lag is max, and your runtime will be much shorter. This would more than likely need to be done in low.speed high torque...why would you be putting lags into railway ties? I wonder how well that zinc would do in a railway tie....
After yesterday's input I'm needing a bit more from those who have:

I have an older milwaukee subcompact driver (non "impact") and I'm going to pick up the big 1/2" M18 fuel driver to do the lugnuts on my Sprinter (180 ft lb).

I'm also looking for a good all around "wood working" impact.
My M12 one doesn't have quite enough power (there are times it runs out of oomph) and the big 1/2" is going to be way over kill..

What's the good "middle ground" impact? Something that'll run lag bots into railway ties but still use able enough to run 3" screws into 2x4's without snapping the heads off?

The 1/4" drive M18?
The 3/8" M12 or M18?

I'm trying to figure out which would be best for the gap in my usage and I am a fan of brushless technology.

Thanks in advance.

p.s. I ordered his and hers heated jackets today. Can't wait for them to arrive!
 

Geek

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Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
271
Location
8000'
why would you be putting lags into railway ties? I wonder how well that zinc would do in a railway tie....


I live literally on the side of a mountain @ 8000ft. Parts of my property are 60+ degree slope. I am going be updating a bunch of retaining walls, sections of which are railway ties.

Cheers,
Ed.


.mobile
 

Banjorear

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Jul 22, 2013
Messages
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Location
Essex Co., NJ
I live literally on the side of a mountain @ 8000ft. Parts of my property are 60+ degree slope. I am going be updating a bunch of retaining walls, sections of which are railway ties.

Cheers,
Ed.


.mobile

Ed:

I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" Fuel impacts. Even thought it's more money, I would have to agree that you want the 1/2" impact. I would think the 3/8" could handle it, but it would be working at max capacity if you are using decent-sized lugs and would really reduce your run time. Meaning, tool is working harder, battery is draining faster, more battery swaps, and then down time while working.
 

Geek

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Nov 13, 2010
Messages
271
Location
8000'
Thanks for the input!

I'm definitely picking up the 1/2" impact for doing my Sprinter's wheels (180lb/ft) as well.

My original question (post 783) was actually should I get a 1/4" or 3/8" to fill the hole in my lineup with *having* the 1/2" fuel and my M12 non-impact driver.

Mainly for woodworking I find that my M12 (non-impact) doesn't have quite enough oomph when driving long fasteners into wood and I fear the 1/2" is way too much and will rip the heads off of small stuff :D

cheers!
 
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blatterjr

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Nov 21, 2011
Messages
157
Need to grab that 6.25 circular saw... everyone have good experiences? If so, what type of duty does it serve for you? Run times, etc.?
 

Ign

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Messages
12,769
Location
Butte Peak ND
Thanks for the input!

I'm definitely picking up the 1/2" impact for doing my Sprinter's wheels (180lb/ft) as well.

My original question (post 783) was actually should I get a 1/4" or 3/8" to fill the hole in my lineup with *having* the 1/2" fuel and my M12 non-impact driver.

Mainly for woodworking I find that my M12 (non-impact) doesn't have quite enough oomph when driving long fasteners into wood and I fear the 1/2" is way too much and will rip the heads off of small stuff :D

cheers!

Ok so you've made it clear whatever M12 you have is NOT an impact driver. In that case of course it doesn't have enough oomph. Get the Fuel 1/4" hex impact driver for woodworking. Impact makes ALL the difference vs the constant twisting torque of a standard drill/driver. Same reason we use a hammer to drive a nail vs trying to just push it in with continuous force.

But I'll also tell what I know from personal experience: despite the marketing claims, the BRUSHED 2650 M18 is noticeably more powerful than the Fuel (brushless) 2453 M12.
 

chrisexv6

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Jun 1, 2005
Messages
2,290
Location
CT
....
But I'll also tell what I know from personal experience: despite the marketing claims, the BRUSHED 2650 M18 is noticeably more powerful than the Fuel (brushless) 2453 M12.

What battery pack were you running the M12 with?

Its been mentioned that a higher Ah battery pack might give the tool more power. I assume the M18 pack was bigger than the M12 pack, it would be interesting to see if running both tools run with the same Ah makes the M12 closer to (or better than) the M18

Absolutely not saying it is, Ive just never seen it done so Im curious.
 

Ign

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Messages
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Location
Butte Peak ND
What battery pack were you running the M12 with?

Its been mentioned that a higher Ah battery pack might give the tool more power. I assume the M18 pack was bigger than the M12 pack, it would be interesting to see if running both tools run with the same Ah makes the M12 closer to (or better than) the M18

Absolutely not saying it is, Ive just never seen it done so Im curious.

The M12 was on a fully charged 3.0 XC and the M18 was 4.0
XC

I am one who believes (knows, for me) that the XC packs give the tools more power, but a turbo V6 still ain't a V8.
 

ABSTIFFGS

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Twin Cities, MN
Need to grab that 6.25 circular saw... everyone have good experiences? If so, what type of duty does it serve for you? Run times, etc.?


I have very good luck with mine. I built a garage for my neighbor this summer and never once had to break out my corded saw. I was very impressed with it.
 

Kracin

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Geek

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Nov 13, 2010
Messages
271
Location
8000'
despite the marketing claims, the BRUSHED 2650 M18 is noticeably more powerful than the Fuel (brushless) 2453 M12.

Doesn't it seem logical an 18 volt system would have more power than a 12 volt system? I would not have expected otherwise.

Apples to Apples would be comparing the brushed M18 to the brushless M18 or the brushed M12 to the brushless M12.

Thanks for the input on the impact version - I'm guessing the 1/4" M18 will be the perfect compliment to the 1/2" M18. I'm going to pick one up this afternoon.
:beer:
 
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TOOL FANATIK

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Sep 20, 2014
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566
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Bennington, VT
I was not challenging you, I wanted to.know what you were doing with the railroad ties...and I was just creating awareness as far as the treatment on those ties might give your zinc coated lags a,short life...I do not know this to be a fact, I just know it is a possibility, going off of the reason we use the green deck screws in anything pt and the yellow deck screws for untreated....
Now that aside, there seems to be a whole Lotta loose wordage on here in regards to the tools...and it seems like noone is talking about the same thing.
Impact driver<¦>impact wrench (gun)
You mentioned using a 1/2" driver to torque 180ft lb lugs? Not happening you will kill your driver trying to do so. That's what an impact wrench is for. What do you mean exactly by a woodworking impact? I'm assuming you mean an impact driver, which FOR THE MOST PART only take 1/4 shanks. You can add versatility by getting a Chuck that's impact rated with a 1/4" shank male, and up to 3/8" chuck. Jacobs has one also with only a 1/4" chuck and its very nice. Back to the railroad ties, if you were referring to a 3/8 drive impact wrench to drive your lags, you could do that all day I am sure. Note, I have never used a Milwaukee impact wrench, only Dewalt. The wakees have way more torque than a Dewalt counterpart so I feel safe with saying this without ever using one. Perhaps when discussing an IMPACT WRENCH, IW should be used. IMPACT DRIVER = ID
DRILL is DRILL or DRIVER
HAMMERDRILL / DRIVER is just that. In this way our language is the same and we are all clear, and answers can be more accurately given. You'd be surprised how many people don't know there's a difference between an IMPACT DRIVER and IMPACT WRENCH.

I live literally on the side of a mountain @ 8000ft. Parts of my property are 60+ degree slope. I am going be updating a bunch of retaining walls, sections of which are railway ties.

Cheers,
Ed.


.mobile

After yesterday's input I'm needing a bit more from those who have:

I have an older milwaukee subcompact driver (non "impact") and I'm going to pick up the big 1/2" M18 fuel driver to do the lugnuts on my Sprinter (180 ft lb).

I'm also looking for a good all around "wood working" impact.
My M12 one doesn't have quite enough power (there are times it runs out of oomph) and the big 1/2" is going to be way over kill..

What's the good "middle ground" impact? Something that'll run lag bots into railway ties but still use able enough to run 3" screws into 2x4's without snapping the heads off?

The 1/4" drive M18?
The 3/8" M12 or M18?

I'm trying to figure out which would be best for the gap in my usage and I am a fan of brushless technology.

Thanks in advance.

p.s. I ordered his and hers heated jackets today. Can't wait for them to arrive!
 

TOOL FANATIK

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Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
566
Location
Bennington, VT
Ed:

I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" Fuel impacts. Even thought it's more money, I would have to agree that you want the 1/2" impact. I would think the 3/8" could handle it, but it would be working at max capacity if you are using decent-sized lugs and would really reduce your run time. Meaning, tool is working harder, battery is draining faster, more battery swaps, and then down time while working.

Banjorear,
Did you mean to say "decent-sized LUGS"? If so then yes I agree the 3/8 IMPACT WRENCH would probably be working too hard. Now if you meant to say "decent-sized LAGS" I disagree and think a 3/8 IMPACT WRENCH would more than suffice for driving LAGS into railroad ties.
 

TOOL FANATIK

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Messages
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Bennington, VT
Ed:

I have both the 3/8" and 1/2" Fuel impacts. Even thought it's more money, I would have to agree that you want the 1/2" impact. I would think the 3/8" could handle it, but it would be working at max capacity if you are using decent-sized lugs and would really reduce your run time. Meaning, tool is working harder, battery is draining faster, more battery swaps, and then down time while working.

Banjorear,
Did you mean to say "decent-sized LUGS"? If so then yes I agree the 3/8 IMPACT WRENCH would probably be working too hard. Now if you meant to say "decent-sized LAGS" I disagree and think a 3/8 IMPACT WRENCH would more than suffice for driving LAGS into railroad ties.
 

Banjorear

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Jul 22, 2013
Messages
1,879
Location
Essex Co., NJ
Banjorear,
Did you mean to say "decent-sized LUGS"? If so then yes I agree the 3/8 IMPACT WRENCH would probably be working too hard. Now if you meant to say "decent-sized LAGS" I disagree and think a 3/8 IMPACT WRENCH would more than suffice for driving LAGS into railroad ties.

Hey Thanks,

I meant to say lags. I agree somewhat and I do think the 3/8ths could do it, but depending on the size of lag. (I don't the size I used, but they were big and I used a 1/2" air gun to drive them in). The 3/8ths would be working it's tail off and going through batteries a lot more so then a 1/2".

Maybe we need clarification on the size of lag. I also used beeswax to help lube them in when I did my install.
 

Geek

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 13, 2010
Messages
271
Location
8000'
Hey Gents,

I didn't know about this (if it was posted in this thread I missed it) but I thought I'd share in case it helps someone else..

I decided to run to Home Depot and pick up the M18 fuel combo pack - Drill and 1/4" impact. This one:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...XC-Combo-Kit-2797-22/203639295?N=5yc1vZc1xyZ6

It sells for $399.
It was in the store for $399.
The price tag above the case said $399.

The kid that works there said "check this out!".. grabbed the box and took me to a cash register. When we rang it up the computer went:
$399 - 150 = $249.

I paid $249 for it!

It is some sort of Christmas sale taking $150 off. I don't know what the details are but I really appreciate the kid at our local store telling me about it because there was no signage in the tool area!

4-L.jpg
 
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