The Milwaukee addiction thread! :)
- Thread starter JustinsGr8
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subarub4
Well-known member
Crabman
Well-known member
The inflator is great I think.
Acme has it for $59 now:
https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tool...b7smA7RYqPDp4VjAu5_ESOKFfBnqNwhgaAtvsEALw_wcB
CPO also has a combo kit for $149 that includes inflator, 3/8 impact, 1.5 battery, charger and 3/8 metric socket set:
https://www.cpooutlets.com/milwauke...-3-8-in.-metric-socket-set/miln2463-21rs.html
Acme has it for $59 now:
https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tool...b7smA7RYqPDp4VjAu5_ESOKFfBnqNwhgaAtvsEALw_wcB
CPO also has a combo kit for $149 that includes inflator, 3/8 impact, 1.5 battery, charger and 3/8 metric socket set:
https://www.cpooutlets.com/milwauke...-3-8-in.-metric-socket-set/miln2463-21rs.html
Kaervak
Well-known member
My M12 right angle die grinder arrived today. Absolutely love it. It has plenty of power for a battery powered die grinder in my opinion. My only complaint is the collet is a bit tight and takes some fighting, but that will change with use I'm sure. Such a minor minor complaint though. 
I’d rather pay $79 and get a 5 year warranty than $59 for the recon unit.
techieman33
Well-known member
Agreed, get the warranty. I've seen a lot of talk about them failing, especially at higher pressures. I had one fail that way myself.
DFB
Well-known member
LOL!
The challenge is real...
The challenge is real...
DFB
Well-known member
Attachments
subarub4
Well-known member
javyLSU
Well-known member
Does that heat gun have a lock to keep it running without holding the trigger?
subarub4
Well-known member
javyLSU
Well-known member
^Thanks for the reply.
Glammers37
Well-known member
I consider myself a Milwaukee addict, I have a ton of there stuff and for the most part love it. But I recently purchased a couple of their new m12 angle die grinders, and a m12 straight die grinder and are very dissatisfied with them. No power, they shutoff all the time. I have pretty much given up on them. I have pretty much replaced the air tools in my shop with Milwaukee m12 and m18 tools, but the die grinders don’t make the grade. IMO.save your money on theses units.
Greg
Greg
Fix Until Broke
Well-known member
I had an opportunity to take the right angle one for a test drive this past weekend (one of the guys in the shop bought one). I agree with Glammers37, it's like using a dremel tool that actually shuts off anytime you even begin to put some load on it. At least with a dremel it will keep spinning. This was using an 80 grit 2" sanding disc prepping aluminum for welding. It was using a 1.5 and 2.0 battery - I went through 3 fully charged ones in less than 15 minutes of actual run time. Didn't try a 4.0 or 6.0 (didn't think of it). It's better with a freshly charged 2.0, but still a LONG way from replacing a pneumatic one. It would have to double in power to be half as good as a pneumatic.
The other thing I found was that it's a lot longer along the rotating axis which makes it harder to control as it has much more torque on your hand compared to a shorter one. It's only about an inch longer but when you're going from 3" to 4", that's a big percentage (insert wise crack here...).
I'll try it with a 4.0 next opportunity I get, but unless there is a dramatic difference, I'll be saving my money for something else.
I was really excited about it and wanted to like it, but it's just completely underwhelming.
subarub4
Well-known member
How about that 3” cut off tool? I’m thinking about getting that first before getting another m18 cut off tool again. Not that I had any issues with the m18 version.
buddylee1998
Well-known member
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2016
- Messages
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I love mine! No issues with anything I have tried yet, but I'm a DIY guy
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
DFB
Well-known member
Cool...finally a plain ol' HOODIE!
$50 a pop
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produ...3cm1KbVdFMDNxM3lJTWhQdVwvdGJWeUtwQ2xnT2EifQ==
$50 a pop
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Produ...3cm1KbVdFMDNxM3lJTWhQdVwvdGJWeUtwQ2xnT2EifQ==
DFB
Well-known member
I have one its handy especially if you don't do an air wheel for metal cuts, but its no powerhouse. Take your time don't press down hard and it works fine.
The accessories package make it useful for drywall or certain other building material cuts, ceramic/brick. The shoe plate is pretty neat and can hook a vac line for dust
Though don't know what M18 tool your considering
Glammers37
Well-known member
I tried a 2.0 I’ll have to try them with the bigger batteries. Thanks for input. Just a bummer, I had big expectations.
Greg
I have one of these that needs to be replaced, 220 ft-lbs.
I'm in construction and most of my work is with 1/2" bolts, this thing has enough power so i'm thinking of moving to the stubby as it is rated for 250 ft.-lbs and is much lighter.
Would the m12 stubby really be better than the m18 wrench?
I'm in construction and most of my work is with 1/2" bolts, this thing has enough power so i'm thinking of moving to the stubby as it is rated for 250 ft.-lbs and is much lighter.
Would the m12 stubby really be better than the m18 wrench?
Caparris
Well-known member
Pretty much the same story here. M12 stubby seems stronger to me.
DFB
Well-known member
I recently got a 3/8" Stubby. They are close for sure. I have always liked my 1/2" M18 "B" compact impact wrench (but not the 3/8" version just doesn't seem the same at all)
IMHO you wont disappointed in performance at all if you switch
IMHO you wont disappointed in performance at all if you switch
Black300zx
Well-known member
Do you see much performance difference from the CP vs XC batteries? I'm asking due to the comments about disappointing performance that a couple members have voiced over the past couple pages.
I've been eyeing up the "get a free XC6.0" kit that HD has been advertising for the past couple months, but with spring yardwork coming up I might end up diverting the tool budget to the Fuel Hackzall with a pruning blade
HMCFab9
Well-known member
I have the m12 3" cutoff tool.
I do automotive restoration / sheetmetal work.
Initially I was Very unimpressed with it!
It's definitely no power house, but once you get used to it's limitations, it can come in handy in places you don't want to use an air powered tool.
I still use my pneumatic one for the majority of cutting
DFB
Well-known member
I have really only used an XC 4.0AH (biggest I have) mostly because of the recommendations and even Milwaukee's own ads and video almost always show it with a XC...AND a DEEP socket too!.
Hey it is STUBBY
But the reality is and have done limited tests with a non contact tach larger batteries do equate to more, the readout shows a slight increase in rpm over a compact battery and the peak rpm during each phase of the discharge cycle run time (think light bars) is longer thruout
Guess it all depends what your doing too if using any compact will be suitable If your not taxing the limits of the tool in an application should work fine but always will be a much shorter run time
I have one of these that needs to be replaced, 220 ft-lbs.
I'm in construction and most of my work is with 1/2" bolts, this thing has enough power so i'm thinking of moving to the stubby as it is rated for 250 ft.-lbs and is much lighter.
Would the m12 stubby really be better than the m18 wrench?
The question is mainly whether the smaller battery will be an issue. Stubby rocks.
In my experience the smaller batteries are more limited but it’s not like they are useless tools with them. Also, I have read (on GJ if I’m not mistaken) and personally experienced a difference in power bet the 1/2 and 3/8 stubby so keep that in mind. I personally wanted it for 3/8 stuffs and am very happy with it but a coworker has the 1/2 and always likes to compare and show his is better lol
Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
Kaervak
Well-known member
I have the 3/8 stubby as well. I've used a CP3.0 pack with it, an XC3.0 and XC6.0. With the CP3.0 it did struggle a bit the remove lug nuts torqued to 100ft/lbs and I was disappointed with it. It still got the job done, but felt like it was barely able to do it. With either XC pack it took them off no problem, no hesitation, no pounding away, just pulled them right off Big big difference in performance with the XC packs.
However, when doing brakes on my girlfriends car, the stubby couldn't break the lugs free as the shop that put her new set of tires on just pounded the lugs on full bore with their impact. I had to use my M18 high torque which pulled them off nearly instantly. That was the only instance where the stubby failed, but I'm not upset given the circumstances.
So, if you do get the stubby I highly recommend using an XC pack with it. It does give it a pretty significant performance boost. There's nothing wrong with the CP packs, just not the same amount of punch which in certain situations can be a good thing.
5.9Jon
Active member
Well my cordless wet/dry vac 0880-20 kicked the bucket. About 4 years on it and sucked up hundreds of liters of water due to garage not having a drain. Still under warranty so at least it will get repaired. Is that about average life for these? It is handy to have.
Black300zx
Well-known member
I have the 3/8 stubby as well. I've used a CP3.0 pack with it, an XC3.0 and XC6.0. With the CP3.0 it did struggle a bit the remove lug nuts torqued to 100ft/lbs and I was disappointed with it. It still got the job done, but felt like it was barely able to do it. With either XC pack it took them off no problem, no hesitation, no pounding away, just pulled them right off Big big difference in performance with the XC packs.
However, when doing brakes on my girlfriends car, the stubby couldn't break the lugs free as the shop that put her new set of tires on just pounded the lugs on full bore with their impact. I had to use my M18 high torque which pulled them off nearly instantly. That was the only instance where the stubby failed, but I'm not upset given the circumstances.
So, if you do get the stubby I highly recommend using an XC pack with it. It does give it a pretty significant performance boost. There's nothing wrong with the CP packs, just not the same amount of punch which in certain situations can be a good thing.
This is what I was hoping to hear. The one user a couple pages back who had issues with 100lb-ft lugnuts with a CP2.0 had me questioning my desire to get one. Your experience above suggests that battery choice was his issue and will give me some peace of mind in getting on.
I had a similar experience recently. My dad grabbed me a Baer hi-torque corded impact gun from HF for my birthday since I no longer have access to air and didn't have any intent in getting into 18V tools just for the purpose of having a hi-torque gun. First thing I tried it on was my wife's jeep which had recently been into the local meineke for inspection. It had to hammer for a few seconds to get the lugs off and I was initially disappointed. I later tried it on my F150 which I had torqued to 150 myself and it zipped them off with a light bump of the trigger, which spoke to how greatly over-torqued the lugs on the Jeep were
I think the 3/8 stubby will make its way into my arsenal eventually. I'll have the big HF corded 1/2" gun for really tough stuff that the stubby can't handle (crank bolts, axle nuts, etc).
This is what I was hoping to hear. The one user a couple pages back who had issues with 100lb-ft lugnuts with a CP2.0 had me questioning my desire to get one. Your experience above suggests that battery choice was his issue and will give me some peace of mind in getting on.
I had a similar experience recently. My dad grabbed me a Baer hi-torque corded impact gun from HF for my birthday since I no longer have access to air and didn't have any intent in getting into 18V tools just for the purpose of having a hi-torque gun. First thing I tried it on was my wife's jeep which had recently been into the local meineke for inspection. It had to hammer for a few seconds to get the lugs off and I was initially disappointed. I later tried it on my F150 which I had torqued to 150 myself and it zipped them off with a light bump of the trigger, which spoke to how greatly over-torqued the lugs on the Jeep were
I think the 3/8 stubby will make its way into my arsenal eventually. I'll have the big HF corded 1/2" gun for really tough stuff that the stubby can't handle (crank bolts, axle nuts, etc).
If you already have 1/2" impact sockets and not a 3/8" set, I'd get the 1/2" - it's said to get more out of the potential of the motor than 3/8" with the additional mass of the 1/2" anvil and sockets. (I got the 1/2" for that reason)
Kaervak
Well-known member
Yet another post of mine talking up the 3/8 stubby, I know I know
Anyway, I just finished up replacing the rear wheel hub on my 2009 Subaru Forester. Original hub, original axle nut which was torqued to 162ft/lbs from the factory. I used the 3/8 stubby with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 32MM deep well socket and XC6.0 battery. I wasn't expecting it to remove the axle nut, but it did and with barely any struggle. I was hugely surprised that the stubby was able to remove the axle nut. That thing keeps impressing me.
Also as M635_Guy said, if you already only have 1/2 impact sockets, go with the 1/2 stubby instead of the 3/8. Regardless, either route you go you'll love it.
Anyway, I just finished up replacing the rear wheel hub on my 2009 Subaru Forester. Original hub, original axle nut which was torqued to 162ft/lbs from the factory. I used the 3/8 stubby with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 32MM deep well socket and XC6.0 battery. I wasn't expecting it to remove the axle nut, but it did and with barely any struggle. I was hugely surprised that the stubby was able to remove the axle nut. That thing keeps impressing me.
Also as M635_Guy said, if you already only have 1/2 impact sockets, go with the 1/2 stubby instead of the 3/8. Regardless, either route you go you'll love it.
DFB
Well-known member
Ya and for those reasons alone I never much understood the fascination with getting a Mid Torque unit with a 3/8" anvil.
Though I went with 3/8" on my Stubby figuring I complement not replace my old 2454 3/8 wrench and thinking I get best of both worlds and would just use a 1/2" adapter when needed ( and I always rather use an adapter than a reducer if I can help it)
Besides I already had three 1/2"anvil versions of impact wrenches in my arsenal already
So that said my 3/8" Stubby actually has has the 1/2" adapter on it since I got it
And I haven't noticed any issues at all using it like that... loss of torque transfer etc. The tool performed has admirably and meets my all expectations.
I admit I was not a believer in the beginning.
Yet another post of mine talking up the 3/8 stubby, I know I know
Anyway, I just finished up replacing the rear wheel hub on my 2009 Subaru Forester. Original hub, original axle nut which was torqued to 162ft/lbs from the factory. I used the 3/8 stubby with a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter, 32MM deep well socket and XC6.0 battery. I wasn't expecting it to remove the axle nut, but it did and with barely any struggle. I was hugely surprised that the stubby was able to remove the axle nut. That thing keeps impressing me.
Also as M635_Guy said, if you already only have 1/2 impact sockets, go with the 1/2 stubby instead of the 3/8. Regardless, either route you go you'll love it.
Axle nut isn't really a true test of strength. I can't think of a time that I've had an issue removing one, and I'm an auto tech. My discontinued snap-on ct4410 3/8 drive (rated at 150 ft/lbs working, 230 bolt breakaway) took off the axle nut on my old '96 chevy k1500, that had no hub caps in the rust belt. But it wouldn't budge the hub bolts even after heating the knuckle with a little map gas torch. Was trying to get the bearing done at home, didn't happen. Socket would jam in the hub when I tired a breaker bar
DFB
Well-known member
Do a front motor sprocket on a Harley with one 
I offered my Stubby to my buddy at the motorcycle shop a couple a weeks ago we were replacing a ring gear and starter pinion on a custom chopper a guy we know bought in Vegas after a jackpot
I really wanted to see if would bang it off... was a pretty big socket
He didn't take me up on my offer though and grabbed a 1/2" air instead
I offered my Stubby to my buddy at the motorcycle shop a couple a weeks ago we were replacing a ring gear and starter pinion on a custom chopper a guy we know bought in Vegas after a jackpot
I really wanted to see if would bang it off... was a pretty big socket
He didn't take me up on my offer though and grabbed a 1/2" air instead
Black300zx
Well-known member
Also as M635_Guy said, if you already only have 1/2 impact sockets, go with the 1/2 stubby instead of the 3/8. Regardless, either route you go you'll love it.
I have a 1/2" deep set and a 3/8" shallow set, so it's a toss up for me. My thinking was that if I'm needing a stubby, space is tight and a slightly smaller 3/8" socket might be beneficial. <shrug>
Thanks for the input
MikeF2316
Well-known member
I have a 1/2" deep set and a 3/8" shallow set, so it's a toss up for me. My thinking was that if I'm needing a stubby, space is tight and a slightly smaller 3/8" socket might be beneficial. <shrug>
Thanks for the input
This was my reasoning too, which is why I have the 3/8.