PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
When NAPA is closed, but Home Depot is open.
The repurposing thread
- Thread starter BMB
- Start date
fartymarty
Well-known member
I'm guessing that the HD "Welcome" mat they were using as a mud flap must have fallen off?
Would be nice to attach it a little better, otherwise there isn't anything wrong with that!
larry4406
Well-known member
I'm guessing that the HD "Welcome" mat they were using as a mud flap must have fallen off?
It’s a foundation window well for a small basement window!
danielbuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 916
I'd bet that's not roofing hacked to be wheel covers. I imagine it would be pretty difficult to bend it in an arch like that without kinking it. Plus it has holes drilled in it for mounting to something that isn't there. I'd bet it's pressed and sold as wheel covers.
I figured that but it works great for a fender. Probably just as good as something made for the purpose.
ObnoxiousFumes
Well-known member
danielbuck
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- Apr 15, 2014
- Messages
- 916
oh, yeah that could be! all I could think of was roofing, haha
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
It's a window well.
You use culvert splices on little HF trailers.
You use culvert splices on little HF trailers.
larry4406
Well-known member
I took that picture as idiot was rolling coal into my drivers window at a traffic light.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I took that picture as idiot was rolling coal into my drivers window at a traffic light.
Pro Tip:
If you look on the driver's door, about half way down there should be a switch or a handle that will open and close the window.
fartymarty
Well-known member
Compact Round Metal Window Well
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windowwellsupply.com
Compact Round Metal Window Well
Discover the Compact Round Window Well at Window Well Supply. Enjoy free shipping and IRC code-compliant quality. Order today for unbeatable value!
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ObnoxiousFumes
Well-known member
Depends how big the culvert was I guess lol
The Bean
Well-known member
I think i showed this picture of an assortment of sockets and ratchets in another old tool thread. 
Here's the box. A wine box.
It got a bit more organized...
Here's the box. A wine box.
It got a bit more organized...
Well, at least they used u-bolts and not zip ties to attach it to the pipe!
I wouldn't expect that tail pipe to live a full life, now that it's exposed to everything the tires will kick up at it.
Besides, you guys are all missing the BONUS item: Looks like he's using an orange extension cord for his tail lights! I've done that for an emergency trailer repair, it works extremely well.
Mike
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yep, definitely should have pounded the rear mounting flange out flat before installing that wheel well.
And he didn't flush-cut the tails off the zip ties holding up the extension cord.
What a hack.
And he didn't flush-cut the tails off the zip ties holding up the extension cord.
What a hack.
Skyman
Well-known member
I'd rather see the full tail on a zip tie than to see myself leaking blood after getting too close to one that has been poorly trimmed.
fartymarty
Well-known member
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WoodsTruck
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- Jan 12, 2013
- Messages
- 1,019
Says who?
If I use long ties and can wrap them several times to take up slack, I'll do that then trim the tail flush. If I have to cut it off, I cut right under the shoulder then I can reuse the tie but with one fewer wraps.
Or, if I'm in a jam, I'll reach in and lift the catch tongue and feed the tie out in reverse and reuse.
fartymarty
Well-known member
I will edit my post, of course you are correct.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Whittled the back half of a carpenters pencil to match/mate with a clothes pin.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Be careful. That clothespin is going to hurt when clip the pencil behind your ear.Whittled the back half of a carpenters pencil to match/mate with a clothes pin.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I had to look at that entirely too long to understand what I was seeing..lolWhittled the back half of a carpenters pencil to match/mate with a clothes pin.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Yup lol
...but why?Whittled the back half of a carpenters pencil to match/mate with a clothes pin.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
So you can always find your wood pencil.
acer66
Well-known member
fartymarty
Well-known member
Have you ever had something in your shirt pocket that fell out when you bent over, and picked it up and repeated the same thing again and then laughed at your silly *** self?
Well, KnurledNut didn't think it was funny when he did it...so...
jives
Well-known member
Somewhat of a partial repurpose. I am in the process of taking the top and middle drawer of an old schoolteacher's desk and affixing it to a pair of industrial metal table legs. The parts are all beat up (hence everything was free), and now trying to refurbish and meld together.
In the first pic is the original table with the top off and the drawer removed and the center drawer frame cut out. I decided to use the old drawer frame to make as authentic as possible. Most of the rest of the carcass will be burned, the drawers saved for another day?
The second pic is the top, sanded and stained. The top is heavy veneered plywood. Note the patch in an area the veneer was peeling up and thus removed, and large ink stain. The patch (epoxy filler) will be painted with industrial gray paint the ink stain left as is. You can also see a faint outline from old tape. No amount of scraping and sanding could remove any of these marks, and only worsened some iffy grain uniformity. My 25 year old son says it looks retro like that, so that's how it will stay. The bottom I've already sanded, stained, and patched, but it is in no better shape. Notice in the background is a large 4/4 oak board. Salvaged this from some free oak bookcases. Behind the board you can see a bit of red. This is a refurbished Craftsman 3.5" vise that I will include with the work table.
The third pic is the drawer and drawer frame during glue up. Needed a lot of work, but does look teacher-desk authentic.
Last pic are the metal legs, sanded and painted with the dark industrial gray. The wooden blocks are oak feet pads, stained. Will be using some scrap oak to span the leg crossbars to form a lower shelf.
Project should have been done last week, but the humidity has been so high that it is taking twice as long for stain and poly to dry.
In the first pic is the original table with the top off and the drawer removed and the center drawer frame cut out. I decided to use the old drawer frame to make as authentic as possible. Most of the rest of the carcass will be burned, the drawers saved for another day?
The second pic is the top, sanded and stained. The top is heavy veneered plywood. Note the patch in an area the veneer was peeling up and thus removed, and large ink stain. The patch (epoxy filler) will be painted with industrial gray paint the ink stain left as is. You can also see a faint outline from old tape. No amount of scraping and sanding could remove any of these marks, and only worsened some iffy grain uniformity. My 25 year old son says it looks retro like that, so that's how it will stay. The bottom I've already sanded, stained, and patched, but it is in no better shape. Notice in the background is a large 4/4 oak board. Salvaged this from some free oak bookcases. Behind the board you can see a bit of red. This is a refurbished Craftsman 3.5" vise that I will include with the work table.
The third pic is the drawer and drawer frame during glue up. Needed a lot of work, but does look teacher-desk authentic.
Last pic are the metal legs, sanded and painted with the dark industrial gray. The wooden blocks are oak feet pads, stained. Will be using some scrap oak to span the leg crossbars to form a lower shelf.
Project should have been done last week, but the humidity has been so high that it is taking twice as long for stain and poly to dry.
jives
Well-known member
We are currently approaching 48 hours of no power following a storm a couple of days ago that caused widespread, yet seemingly random, power outages throughout Central NY. Pulled out the generator after our power restore estimate went from 6 hrs to 24 hrs to 48 hrs. I've never really had a cover for the genny, and never really needed as all the previous outages requiring the genny were in the winter and no rain. Anyway, I improvised during a downpour. The wheelbarrow tub was already off as I was replacing the rotted handles. Worked great, plenty of air flow for cooling, sufficient overhang. I have a metal concrete mixing tub that may become the permanent lid after I fix the wheelbarrow.
One of these days I'll hook up a transfer switch. Oh, how I need the well pump to work and the propane boiler to fire up!
One of these days I'll hook up a transfer switch. Oh, how I need the well pump to work and the propane boiler to fire up!
Looks like a bomb squad robot, lol.We are currently approaching 48 hours of no power following a storm a couple of days ago that caused widespread, yet seemingly random, power outages throughout Central NY. Pulled out the generator after our power restore estimate went from 6 hrs to 24 hrs to 48 hrs. I've never really had a cover for the genny, and never really needed as all the previous outages requiring the genny were in the winter and no rain. Anyway, I improvised during a downpour. The wheelbarrow tub was already off as I was replacing the rotted handles. Worked great, plenty of air flow for cooling, sufficient overhang. I have a metal concrete mixing tub that may become the permanent lid after I fix the wheelbarrow.
One of these days I'll hook up a transfer switch. Oh, how I need the well pump to work and the propane boiler to fire up!
No pics on this one, but this house I bought (you know, the ex-hoarder house that was full of junk), they left me an upright piano. Of course, being hoarders, it was a total unplayable, unfixable POS. The wheels were broken under it, so I couldn't even move the thing. So my wife and I dismantled it in place (I also bitched about it here, with some pics https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-inside-your-house-today.513421/post-10627265 ).
Anyhow, I've been using the wood from it all over the place! It's handy as hell. Much of the keybed wood has been used to support plumbing in the kitchen (blocks for the vent pipe up the wall, blocks for where the outside spigot passes through the wall, the gas pipe for the stove, etc). The big 4x4 supports from the back of the piano are going to run horizontally between the studs to support the upper cabinets. The huge side slabs will probably become shelves or something. I saved every straight piece of wood I could salvage. I mean, I had to take it apart gently, as, like I said, I couldn't move the thing, so I had to take it apart in the living room, lol. Not like I could swing a sledge in the living room. So I ended up with a lot of decent usable wood.
The neighbor has a mechanic shop, and he let me put the cast iron "harp" and any other metal in his scrap pile, so that's done.
Oh yeah, come to think of it, I used one of the huge 5" bolts that held the harp to the back board as a hitch pin for the lawn trailer I bought too, lol.
This house is pretty far from any stores, so I'm pretty motivated to just use what's already there when I need something.
Anyhow, I've been using the wood from it all over the place! It's handy as hell. Much of the keybed wood has been used to support plumbing in the kitchen (blocks for the vent pipe up the wall, blocks for where the outside spigot passes through the wall, the gas pipe for the stove, etc). The big 4x4 supports from the back of the piano are going to run horizontally between the studs to support the upper cabinets. The huge side slabs will probably become shelves or something. I saved every straight piece of wood I could salvage. I mean, I had to take it apart gently, as, like I said, I couldn't move the thing, so I had to take it apart in the living room, lol. Not like I could swing a sledge in the living room. So I ended up with a lot of decent usable wood.
The neighbor has a mechanic shop, and he let me put the cast iron "harp" and any other metal in his scrap pile, so that's done.
Oh yeah, come to think of it, I used one of the huge 5" bolts that held the harp to the back board as a hitch pin for the lawn trailer I bought too, lol.
This house is pretty far from any stores, so I'm pretty motivated to just use what's already there when I need something.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Ever see the movie Burnt Offerings? Looks like the house is turning you.lol
jives
Well-known member
I just finished the teacher's desk / industrial steel table leg fusion from a few posts above and thought I'd put the pics in a separate post.
This project started out to see what I could do with mostly free stuff in the shop, not really to create a sell-able item. The desk was a free CL find, the legs were attached to a metal table top and vise acquired for $35 at an auction (I only wanted the top and vise), the stain was leftover. I thought I could use scrap oak but I ended up buying and cleaning up red oak from a local mill. The expensive parts were all the fasteners (screw inserts from Amazon) and truss head screws from the local Ace. I also nixed the Minwax poly I had leftover as I was not pleased with it on previous projects. Paid about 3 times the cost for General Finishes at the local paint store. All told, about $50.
First, all fastening to wood (table legs to top, shelf boards, foot pads) were done with screw inserts so I could be taken apart. The top is 3 x 5, and the table sits 36" above the ground, so it won't fit through any man door unless the top is off. The fake d
Dutchman is really painted epoxy wood filler.
Next, the shelf boards drying after staining and poly. These were 4/4 red oak from a local sawmill. I had to cut down from an 11" wide x 10' rough sawn board, then joined and face planed in my "new" jointer. I am a bit disappointed that the staining did not match the table top (same stain). Obviously the table top veneer is not red oak! Oh well. The longer board on the left is a cap for a pony wall in the house.
Next, Installing the drawer frame. This frame was literally cut out of the teacher's desk, but then a back was added on. Tried to match the poplar to the top with different stains, but I was no too successful. Part of my impatience.
Next, the shelves. Screwed from the underside using threaded inserts. They are evenly spaced, the pic is a bit of an optical illusion.
Next, the finished view from below. The original table metal brace was absolutely necessary to keep the table from racking. I had to cut it down, add a few more bolt holes, and paint to match.
The finished project. The black spot is an ink stain, the brown spot a repair of the veneer. I could have routed out the veneer, added a wood patch, but I've never done that and did not want to experiment with it now. Frankly, I just wanted to finish it up so I cut it out with a chisel, filled with epoxy filler, and painted. It is "rustic". BTW, in the background is a project left over from last year that I had to put aside as I could not get the poly finish right. It is a table top from the oldest dining hall on the Cornell Univ. campus. It is the next project and I hope to sell this one and reclaim my garage.
This project started out to see what I could do with mostly free stuff in the shop, not really to create a sell-able item. The desk was a free CL find, the legs were attached to a metal table top and vise acquired for $35 at an auction (I only wanted the top and vise), the stain was leftover. I thought I could use scrap oak but I ended up buying and cleaning up red oak from a local mill. The expensive parts were all the fasteners (screw inserts from Amazon) and truss head screws from the local Ace. I also nixed the Minwax poly I had leftover as I was not pleased with it on previous projects. Paid about 3 times the cost for General Finishes at the local paint store. All told, about $50.
First, all fastening to wood (table legs to top, shelf boards, foot pads) were done with screw inserts so I could be taken apart. The top is 3 x 5, and the table sits 36" above the ground, so it won't fit through any man door unless the top is off. The fake d
Dutchman is really painted epoxy wood filler.
Next, the shelf boards drying after staining and poly. These were 4/4 red oak from a local sawmill. I had to cut down from an 11" wide x 10' rough sawn board, then joined and face planed in my "new" jointer. I am a bit disappointed that the staining did not match the table top (same stain). Obviously the table top veneer is not red oak! Oh well. The longer board on the left is a cap for a pony wall in the house.
Next, Installing the drawer frame. This frame was literally cut out of the teacher's desk, but then a back was added on. Tried to match the poplar to the top with different stains, but I was no too successful. Part of my impatience.
Next, the shelves. Screwed from the underside using threaded inserts. They are evenly spaced, the pic is a bit of an optical illusion.
Next, the finished view from below. The original table metal brace was absolutely necessary to keep the table from racking. I had to cut it down, add a few more bolt holes, and paint to match.
The finished project. The black spot is an ink stain, the brown spot a repair of the veneer. I could have routed out the veneer, added a wood patch, but I've never done that and did not want to experiment with it now. Frankly, I just wanted to finish it up so I cut it out with a chisel, filled with epoxy filler, and painted. It is "rustic". BTW, in the background is a project left over from last year that I had to put aside as I could not get the poly finish right. It is a table top from the oldest dining hall on the Cornell Univ. campus. It is the next project and I hope to sell this one and reclaim my garage.
I found this old desk at the curb on big trash day. Solid maple for most of its construction.
Disassembled the desk, used a few pieces of hardwood from my stash, some 1/2” baltic birch ply, and two purchased pieces for the long top edges to make a Lego play table for the neighbor twins.
Didn’t worry about the mismatched wood species as the table was painted after I gifted it.
Disassembled the desk, used a few pieces of hardwood from my stash, some 1/2” baltic birch ply, and two purchased pieces for the long top edges to make a Lego play table for the neighbor twins.
Didn’t worry about the mismatched wood species as the table was painted after I gifted it.
cpttuna
Well-known member
what library gave you card catalog drawers?Building a raceway for my dust collection hoses. Didn’t have any 10’ plus pieces of 2x4s, so went checking the tickle trunk. Found the ceiling mounts that were from a vertical blinds tucked away. Had some 12” wide pieces of plywood already cut from another project. This was great as I didn‘t lose any width and won‘t sag in the future.
Grandson thinks it is a great raceway for his monster truck trials.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
My buddy bought a different home. It was left behind by the former owner. Likely the reason why was due to the weight. When I was cleaning it up I found an auctioneer tag attached. So it has had at least 3 different owners since the library divested itself of the cabinet.
I had covered it off in my Garage Thread, which you will find below.
Post in thread 'Welcome To My Garage Build'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/welcome-to-my-garage-build.360891/post-10327833
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Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
I finished my dust collector hose raceway. I used some left over stucco colouring cut with 50/50 water. The beauty of this is that the it still shows the wood grain unlike paint.