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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Texas Barn in PA
- Thread starter madison069
- Start date
Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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madison069
Well-known member
Rough hand free drawing, but I was thinking of the layout for the one side of the garage. To the left is the opening area of the man door at the front. So if you’re looking at the front of the garage this would be the left wall. I am thinking of putting the outlets at 4ft above the floor and thinking this is the spacing I will want to utilize for the outlet placement. One outlet is behind the TV but where there is an “E” is where I will put an outlet. I’m also thinking of putting a battery charging station on the right side of the right window.
“TB” is toolbox as I’m thinking of either 3 42” toolbox or a 72” and a 42” toolbox. Then I would also put a set of cabinet for boxes and big tools that don’t fit in the toolboxes. Pegboard is for the most common used tools but will limit what gets put on the wall as I didn’t want it cluttered. I wanted openings under the bench so I can put a chair there and work or what not.
Crappy photo, but hopefully it’s clear enough to make sense.
I’m not set in this setup, as I will be looking for deals and so on. But I do know I wanted to limit clutter on the bench, would like to have a long bench that’s just tall enough for the toolboxes, and would like to minimize open layouts. Pegboard area is as big as I’d like to do with open concept. Only thing I’m stuck on is the whole battery charger/storage idea, heck I might just only have the chargers out on the wall and keep it all in a drawer if I have the room. I will have storage cabinet on the front wall for shop supplies and car parts. So this wall is focus mainly for tool storage.
“TB” is toolbox as I’m thinking of either 3 42” toolbox or a 72” and a 42” toolbox. Then I would also put a set of cabinet for boxes and big tools that don’t fit in the toolboxes. Pegboard is for the most common used tools but will limit what gets put on the wall as I didn’t want it cluttered. I wanted openings under the bench so I can put a chair there and work or what not.
Crappy photo, but hopefully it’s clear enough to make sense.
I’m not set in this setup, as I will be looking for deals and so on. But I do know I wanted to limit clutter on the bench, would like to have a long bench that’s just tall enough for the toolboxes, and would like to minimize open layouts. Pegboard area is as big as I’d like to do with open concept. Only thing I’m stuck on is the whole battery charger/storage idea, heck I might just only have the chargers out on the wall and keep it all in a drawer if I have the room. I will have storage cabinet on the front wall for shop supplies and car parts. So this wall is focus mainly for tool storage.
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madison069
Well-known member
Got some electrical ran in the garage. Just got the left side of the walls setup, ran the wires, and putting the outlets in as I was working my way to the end of the circuit.
The first outlet in the circuit is a GFCI, and the circuit will be on a 20amp breaker. 12ga wire with 20amp rated outlets. I stopped at the outlet by the right window. Was running out of daylight.
Tomorrow I’m going to look at this toolbox.
It’s a 56” Matco 4s made in 2009. My understanding is Matco are good solid toolbox, but just not good for resale. Any concerns with a Matco box? I’m not a snob, but I would like to upgrade my 26” craftsman toolboxes.
The first outlet in the circuit is a GFCI, and the circuit will be on a 20amp breaker. 12ga wire with 20amp rated outlets. I stopped at the outlet by the right window. Was running out of daylight.
Tomorrow I’m going to look at this toolbox.
It’s a 56” Matco 4s made in 2009. My understanding is Matco are good solid toolbox, but just not good for resale. Any concerns with a Matco box? I’m not a snob, but I would like to upgrade my 26” craftsman toolboxes.
Matco boxes are just fine. My Mac box is circa 2006 and after 19 years the black plastic drawer pulls are the only thing really showing any wear. Other than that its been a great box. My Cornwell cart on thebother hand has had a rough life. Drawer locks no longer work, saggy slides, and lift support for the top has failed.
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madison069
Well-known member
I decided to pass on this box, the drawers dimensions just reminded me of two 26” boxes together. Think I would benefit with having wider drawers so I’ll keep Matco on my radar.
So I spent some time at the garage and got all of the outlets installed in their boxes. So the garage now officially have electricity since there’s outlets installed!
I also cleaned up the garage, organize the table, and installed the outlet boxes on the other walls.
I put in an order for pickup for the 220v outlets/wires, and afew other items I forgot in my first planning. With the long weekend coming up, I’m planning to knock out the majority of the electrical. If everything goes well, I’ll have the exterior lights installed, and all of the inside electrical done.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Another option for good tool storage is old Mayline or Hamilton or Safco or Cole brand flat blueprint or flat files. Common sizes are 40 and 47 inches wide but I think I recall seeing some 72 inches wide. I had some 54 inch wide ones on my big Home Depot type pallet racks in my shop and my storage unit for years. The flat files in pics are 28 and 33 inches deep and 54 inch wide ones are usually 41.
Wiring and new bunker look great. Keep up the great work.
Also if you have questions on older toolboxes the vintage section has a toolbox section that gets a lot of eyes.
Wiring and new bunker look great. Keep up the great work.
Also if you have questions on older toolboxes the vintage section has a toolbox section that gets a lot of eyes.
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madison069
Well-known member
I
Speaking of “deals” I didn’t feel like I got a deal when I bought the 6-3awg wire. Just 125ft of 6-3 was $500!!! Future proofing is expensive.
thought about those, but I haven’t found a good deal for them yet.Another option for good tool storage is old Mayline or Hamilton or Safco or Cole brand flat blueprint or flat files. Common sizes are 40 and 47 inches wide but I think I recall seeing some 72 inches wide. I had some 54 inch wide ones on my big Home Depot type pallet racks in my shop and my storage unit for years. The flat files in pics are 28 and 33 inches deep and 54 inch wide ones are usually 41.
Wiring and new bunker look great. Keep up the great work.
Also if you have questions on older toolboxes the vintage section has a toolbox section that gets a lot of eyes.
Speaking of “deals” I didn’t feel like I got a deal when I bought the 6-3awg wire. Just 125ft of 6-3 was $500!!! Future proofing is expensive.
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madison069
Well-known member
Back at it today. I got the back wall and the right wall completed. I placed all of the outlets at 50” so a sheet good, toolbox, or stand alone tool won’t block the outlets.
First outlet in the daisy chain is an GFCI outlet so they are all protected and all is rated for 20amp.
My wife also came and help paint the bunker. She started on the corners and edge around the beams and steel deck.
I need to pick up a few more gallons of Drylok, seems the cinder block is soaking it up.
That’s it for today. Maybe tomorrow, I’ll start running the outlets in the ceiling for the future lift, and garage door openers. Oh and run wires for the front wall outlets.
First outlet in the daisy chain is an GFCI outlet so they are all protected and all is rated for 20amp.
My wife also came and help paint the bunker. She started on the corners and edge around the beams and steel deck.
I need to pick up a few more gallons of Drylok, seems the cinder block is soaking it up.
That’s it for today. Maybe tomorrow, I’ll start running the outlets in the ceiling for the future lift, and garage door openers. Oh and run wires for the front wall outlets.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice, you can't have too many outlets. In my new shop I added dual receptacles every 6' as I don't particularly care for extension cords if I can help it. I love having excess of outlets.
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madison069
Well-known member
I added 24 outlets so far. I particularly do not like wiring dual receptacles, it's a pain in the **** dealing with the wires, twisting them, and stuffing them in the box. But I wanted to be sure I had plenty of outlets above the bench area, so I didn't have to deal with power strips and what not.
I still have 3 outdoor outlets, 2 garage opener outlets, one outlet in the bunker, and two car lift outlets to install. Maybe today I can get the outlets in the ceiling and get the wires ran to the outdoor outlets. I got three 50-amp outlets to install as I wanted to put an outlet along the back wall, one between the garage doors, and one in the bunker. Then the exterior lights and interior lights wiring to finish out the wiring. Oh, I should run a thermostat wire for the heater in the ceiling. So many wires to run!
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madison069
Well-known member
More wires, almost done with all of the outlets. Just 2 of the 220v plugs and the three exterior outlets. Need to put some more nail plates on the studs.
Also got the holes cut out for the lights in the soffit on one side of the garage.
And got the lights installed.
Good lord that one light makes this side look like ****. Which really it is bad due to that damn stud being proud and causing the huge wall to have a bow in it. I think this side is going to come back off in the future and somehow make this wall more flatter. Might be installing thin boards to make the wall more in plane. I don’t know, just mulling over it as it’s never really looked good to me.
It’s just this wall, never really been happy with it.
We will see how it looks with the other two lights wired up tomorrow.
Also got the holes cut out for the lights in the soffit on one side of the garage.
And got the lights installed.
Good lord that one light makes this side look like ****. Which really it is bad due to that damn stud being proud and causing the huge wall to have a bow in it. I think this side is going to come back off in the future and somehow make this wall more flatter. Might be installing thin boards to make the wall more in plane. I don’t know, just mulling over it as it’s never really looked good to me.
It’s just this wall, never really been happy with it.
We will see how it looks with the other two lights wired up tomorrow.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
You know, I don’t know why I couldn’t. I’ll talk to the contractor and see what his thoughts are.
Please share a photo of the inside wall with the bowed stud.....then we'll all have lots of good solutions for you!!
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madison069
Well-known member
Didn’t take any photos, but I got a few ideas. But I still want to talk to the contractor about it.
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madison069
Well-known member
Got the exterior lights installed. I got all of the wires installed. Need to get those wire holders that can hold multiple wires neatly for this area above the switch area.
I got some dimmer switches to install, but I just hard wired it for now to test it out. Used the breaker as the switch to see how the lights look like at night.
Good thing I got a dimmer for these lights…
At full power, they lit up the yard very well!
If that isn’t enough light for the pickleball court, I got these flood lights that does the job!
Once I get the interior lights installed wires installed I’ll tidy up the wires and get all of the switches installed.
I got some dimmer switches to install, but I just hard wired it for now to test it out. Used the breaker as the switch to see how the lights look like at night.
Good thing I got a dimmer for these lights…
At full power, they lit up the yard very well!
If that isn’t enough light for the pickleball court, I got these flood lights that does the job!
Once I get the interior lights installed wires installed I’ll tidy up the wires and get all of the switches installed.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
So here are some photos of the offending stud.
Via the level, it shows the stud is 1/2”-5/8” bowed outwards.
It’s the second board left of the outlet.
The solution?
Just rip it out and install a new board
As always, I had to shift through 30 boards minimum to find one that’s not defective at the big box store.
I also picked up some wire holders at the store. This one can hold up to 8 14ga romex, which is perfect cause there’s going to be 8 strands when I get the interior lights wires installed.
Also, anyone used these type of outside receptacle boxes? Seems well made but I will have to do some demo to get them installed in the wall.
Didn’t do any work really as I had house chores to take care of today. Being Labor Day weekend, I will also be smoking a brisket tonight for tomorrow get together.
Maybe I’ll get some work done tomorrow before the get together!
Via the level, it shows the stud is 1/2”-5/8” bowed outwards.
It’s the second board left of the outlet.
The solution?
Just rip it out and install a new board
As always, I had to shift through 30 boards minimum to find one that’s not defective at the big box store.
I also picked up some wire holders at the store. This one can hold up to 8 14ga romex, which is perfect cause there’s going to be 8 strands when I get the interior lights wires installed.
Also, anyone used these type of outside receptacle boxes? Seems well made but I will have to do some demo to get them installed in the wall.
Didn’t do any work really as I had house chores to take care of today. Being Labor Day weekend, I will also be smoking a brisket tonight for tomorrow get together.
Maybe I’ll get some work done tomorrow before the get together!
larry4406
Well-known member
Your original bowed stud has (had) the sheathing nailed to it and possibly the siding. This is gone if you removed the bowed stud.
We “wound” the bad stud by cutting it one or more places so it can be pushed flush to the wall plane and then sister with a perfect stud. Keeps all nailing intact.
Yes you loose 1.5” width of insulation but pick your battles.
We “wound” the bad stud by cutting it one or more places so it can be pushed flush to the wall plane and then sister with a perfect stud. Keeps all nailing intact.
Yes you loose 1.5” width of insulation but pick your battles.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
You’re talking about kerfing and bending it back in plane? I thought of that, but in the end I plan to remove the siding, again….
The siding isn’t tight enough at the bottom. I thought it was fine but over time it told me it needed to be tighter. So I’m going to remove the siding after replacing the stud and nail everything to the stud again. Lot of work but will be the correct action to fix this wall.
I should have listened to my guts that the bow in the wall wasn’t going to work.
larry4406
Well-known member
Literally cut the stud in half in situ. Then it can be pushed/pulled into the wall plane and then pinned with the sistered stud. Very common technique. Sometimes (rare) framer will use a power plane to shave the crown if the stud is not too bad.
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madison069
Well-known member
After thinking about it and seeing the stud in question, I decided I’d just take it out since there’s nothing really keeping me from just replacing it.
Here is the stud out of the wall, it was just a little crooked.
Seems it was under tension and bowed out even more when it came out of the wall.
After the new stud was put in place it was obvious the sheathing wasn’t going to spring back without some help.
So I placed pieces of 2x4s along the new studs and used liquid nail to glue the 2x4 on the sheathing. Then I screwed the 2x4 pieces against the studs to hold them in place while the adhesive cures.
My plan is then place liquid nail between the new stud and the sheathing, then using the 2x4 pieces that’s glued on the sheathing as anchor points, I’ll pull the 2x4 pieces inward with screws/lag bolts through a piece of lumber that will span across several studs to spread the load of the pulling of the sheathing. Then I’ll leave it while the adhesive cures and I will also screw the 2x4 pieces in the new spots of the stud. Once its all cure I’ll take the boards that spread across the other studs off and hopefully it will all stay in place.
This isn’t a quick fix, but I hope it’s a good solution in the end. It’s mainly the bottom half of the exterior sheathing that’s still bowed out, so this should work. Only time will tell.
Here is the stud out of the wall, it was just a little crooked.
Seems it was under tension and bowed out even more when it came out of the wall.
After the new stud was put in place it was obvious the sheathing wasn’t going to spring back without some help.
So I placed pieces of 2x4s along the new studs and used liquid nail to glue the 2x4 on the sheathing. Then I screwed the 2x4 pieces against the studs to hold them in place while the adhesive cures.
My plan is then place liquid nail between the new stud and the sheathing, then using the 2x4 pieces that’s glued on the sheathing as anchor points, I’ll pull the 2x4 pieces inward with screws/lag bolts through a piece of lumber that will span across several studs to spread the load of the pulling of the sheathing. Then I’ll leave it while the adhesive cures and I will also screw the 2x4 pieces in the new spots of the stud. Once its all cure I’ll take the boards that spread across the other studs off and hopefully it will all stay in place.
This isn’t a quick fix, but I hope it’s a good solution in the end. It’s mainly the bottom half of the exterior sheathing that’s still bowed out, so this should work. Only time will tell.
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madison069
Well-known member
The past couple of days, my wife and youngest painted the bunker walls. They got one coat on the wall and soon they will come back to paint the second coat.
I was able to get some more stuff done today. I got the new exterior electrical outlet boxes trim installed. This was challenging as I had to pull the other j mounts off, cut the hole out for the electrical boxes, set everything back in place with some liquid nail on the back of the trim to both hold and seal the trim to the wall. These boxes will be flush mounted instead of sticking out 4-5” like the other options I had. Maybe tomorrow I’ll finish putting the electrical boxes in and get the outlets wired in place.
I also ran a 220v and a 110v wire to go into the bunker. I will have to pass through the side walls since the back and middle walls are solid.
Oh I got the two 220v outlet installed.
Think I’ll call it a day and enjoy a few cold ones and the brisket that’s sitting in the oven just resting after smoking it all night.
I was able to get some more stuff done today. I got the new exterior electrical outlet boxes trim installed. This was challenging as I had to pull the other j mounts off, cut the hole out for the electrical boxes, set everything back in place with some liquid nail on the back of the trim to both hold and seal the trim to the wall. These boxes will be flush mounted instead of sticking out 4-5” like the other options I had. Maybe tomorrow I’ll finish putting the electrical boxes in and get the outlets wired in place.
I also ran a 220v and a 110v wire to go into the bunker. I will have to pass through the side walls since the back and middle walls are solid.
Oh I got the two 220v outlet installed.
Think I’ll call it a day and enjoy a few cold ones and the brisket that’s sitting in the oven just resting after smoking it all night.
Mr onetwo
Well-known member
Hooray for cold ones and a BRISKET!
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madison069
Well-known member
As progress was slow the past couple of days. Seems I got a case of sour stomach really bad and couldn’t leave the house.
Either way, I went over for an hour and got the exterior sheathing pulled inwards.
Had to get a little creative and was able to pull it in. I’ll give it some time to cure before I pull the blocking off.
Then I worked on the exterior outlets and got all three finished up before I called it quit.
I like how it’s flushed instead of sticking out like the other options. Was a little extra work but it was worth it.
That was it for today. Probably won’t do anymore til Friday or the weekend.
Either way, I went over for an hour and got the exterior sheathing pulled inwards.
Had to get a little creative and was able to pull it in. I’ll give it some time to cure before I pull the blocking off.
Then I worked on the exterior outlets and got all three finished up before I called it quit.
I like how it’s flushed instead of sticking out like the other options. Was a little extra work but it was worth it.
That was it for today. Probably won’t do anymore til Friday or the weekend.
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madison069
Well-known member
I guess you can say I lost 3-4” at that box area. I wouldn’t think it was critical since the studs are 2x6.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
I have a concrete block home so a bit easier to use outside outlet boxes that stuck out but your inset ones look amazing. I like that you have a quality gfci too cause some that big box sells with the waterproof covers are junk.
Nice work so far so here’s to keeping fit til you finish.
Nice work so far so here’s to keeping fit til you finish.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
Here’s the link to the outlet boxes,
Amazon sells them for $26 right now.
As for the gfci outlets I went with the Leviton 20amp gfci. Never had a problem with Leviton.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
I like Leviton too and only replaced 1 of about 20 in 35 years. I had a couple Eaton brand that weren’t great and only had a couple.
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madison069
Well-known member
Had an hour before dinner time, so I stopped by and worked on the light wiring to the switch box.
This clips are nice for organizing the wires.
Was able to get the interior switches wired in. Tomorrow I’ll get the exterior light switches installed.
This clips are nice for organizing the wires.
Was able to get the interior switches wired in. Tomorrow I’ll get the exterior light switches installed.
larry4406
Well-known member
Order the 6-gang trim plate now.
Some of those are ungodly hard nor timely to get.
I am no sparky, but I would check the requirements for stapling of wires. There is a distance requirement relative to the box.
Some of those are ungodly hard nor timely to get.
I am no sparky, but I would check the requirements for stapling of wires. There is a distance requirement relative to the box.
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madison069
Well-known member
Yep! I ordered it the day I got the box. The way it is getting supplies these days, I tend to order it when I think about it. Only thing I haven’t ordered yet is the insulation due to the volume it will take up in the garage.
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madison069
Well-known member
Some progress was made today.
I got the light switches installed, but forgot to take a photo of them.
I got the air line from the bunker and the gas line for the heater installed. Both are 3/4” black iron pipe.
Here gas line going outside.
Wife and youngest got the second coat of white paint on the bunker.
Then I proceeded to put a hole in the wall and installed a ****** for the air line.
Maggie was supervising them while they painted.
The replacement stud is holding and looks a lot better now. I was able to knock all but one of the blocking off. No big deal.
Then I got the ceiling light boxes and all of the wiring ran to each boxes.
Here is my list to complete before it’s time for insulation!
I went ahead and ordered the insulation and the water spigots to install before the insulation goes up.
Getting closer to closing up the walls!
I got the light switches installed, but forgot to take a photo of them.
I got the air line from the bunker and the gas line for the heater installed. Both are 3/4” black iron pipe.
Here gas line going outside.
Wife and youngest got the second coat of white paint on the bunker.
Then I proceeded to put a hole in the wall and installed a ****** for the air line.
Maggie was supervising them while they painted.
The replacement stud is holding and looks a lot better now. I was able to knock all but one of the blocking off. No big deal.
Then I got the ceiling light boxes and all of the wiring ran to each boxes.
Here is my list to complete before it’s time for insulation!
I went ahead and ordered the insulation and the water spigots to install before the insulation goes up.
Getting closer to closing up the walls!
OP
madison069
Well-known member
Built a pressure tester for the gas line out of stuff I had in the garage. Even using a Westinghouse air gauge.
Pre-fitting.
Cleaned all of the threads and get it all ready to assemble.
I didn’t get a finish photo as I was rushed to the next project but here it is on the gas line and pressured up.
It was holding steady and no bubbles developed after I sprayed the line with soapy water.
Tomorrow I’ll switch it over to the air line.
Pre-fitting.
Cleaned all of the threads and get it all ready to assemble.
I didn’t get a finish photo as I was rushed to the next project but here it is on the gas line and pressured up.
It was holding steady and no bubbles developed after I sprayed the line with soapy water.
Tomorrow I’ll switch it over to the air line.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
Got the water line and spigots in place. I put the indoor faucet near the man door so it can be accessed by the front of the garage. Also a switch will be installed nearby to turn the water heater on that will be installed in the upper corner above the man door as this is dead space.
I also installed an outdoor spigot on the side of the building. I used a vinyl mounting trim piece that I had and I also blocked it with vinyl board under that vinyl trim. This created a solid mounting point for the spigot.
These are both Woodford faucets, both seems like nice units.
I’ll be installing a connection to the pex line to temporarily pressure up the line with water before I close the wall up. Got to make sure they don’t leak.
I also installed an outdoor spigot on the side of the building. I used a vinyl mounting trim piece that I had and I also blocked it with vinyl board under that vinyl trim. This created a solid mounting point for the spigot.
These are both Woodford faucets, both seems like nice units.
I’ll be installing a connection to the pex line to temporarily pressure up the line with water before I close the wall up. Got to make sure they don’t leak.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Cody, I have some catching up to do but I did want to stop by and wish you...
Happy Birtday Cody!
Happy Birtday Cody!
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Cody, your work completed is inspiring as usual.
Didn't realize (or forgot) that our bday's were this close together...Happy Birthday!
Didn't realize (or forgot) that our bday's were this close together...Happy Birthday!
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madison069
Well-known member
Thanks Bob! I’ve completed another revolution around the sun successfully. A lot has changed in that short revolution of time and overall it’s been a good year!
Thanks Marc! When I was installing the faucet inside, it was bugging me on how I was going to mount it. So I used the 2x6 pt wood as a spot to ensure the screws had a good bite to hold in place as there are only two screw points at the top. Then I placed the vinyl piece of trim board behind the faucet to have a nice spot to mount the faucet and also allow drywall to **** up to it nicely. Overall I think I will put a vinyl sheet on the wall under the faucet to protect the drywall from water spray. Kinda like how the public bathroom do with the air dryer and they got that stainless steel under the dryer on the wall.
I have a 10 gal water heater that will be put inside a metal cabinet once I find one I’m happy with to install in the upper corner. I’ll build a shelf to give the cabinet some more support, but I wanted to enclosed the water heater to clean it up. I’ll use a water tight conduit to connect the heater to the outlet box to prevent water from spray on the electrical connections if the tank ever leaks up there. A pressure relief line will run down to the floor in the corner behind the door. With the 6” cinder block stem wall, the wall should be protected from any water in this area. I will also tie a drain line for the cabinet to this relief line so water will drain down it instead of out of the cabinet and onto the wall.
But, next thing on the list is to install the insulation once I install the nail plates for the plumbing lines.
Then it’s drywall! I got a labor quote of $4,200 for them to install drywall and finish the walls for paint. Not a bad quote, as it’s $2 a sqft. I just have to purchase the material for them also.
I told my wife I can do it, just hate it, but she said I need a break and we should just source the drywall out.
Thanks for the birthday wish! Happy Birthday to you too! Seems like a lot tends to happen in September.
OP
madison069
Well-known member
Oh and you might of noticed the second hole next to the water line coming out of the stem wall. Well, I knew there was an anchor in that area but wasn’t sure exactly where. My “Eeny , meeny, miny, moe” technic failed me. I hit the anchor dead center of the stud with the hole saw. I thought the sound changed but wasn’t sure while drilling.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
If you don't point out the mistakes, 90% of the time, no one notices...words I need to live better by myself
