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Between 705 & 1200 SQ/FT The Time Machine Garage - 32x24 with loft

Workspaces between 705 and 1200 squarefeet.
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Gerald O

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Last time I did any great amount of drywall construction was back in the '70s. We didn't have these lifts and everything was hand nailed. I remember even with a crew that doing ceiling work was always a bit of a struggle. We made up temporary wooden support jacks to hold sheets in place while getting the nailing started.

The drywall hoist makes this an easy one-man job that I would have dreaded to try on my own back in the day.

Got about 10 sheets up so far. It seems to be moving along fairly quick.

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Gerald O

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Backtracking a bit, here's some pics of the insulation. Loft floor was insulated to R19 using unfaced batts. Because the 16" OC spaced I-joists are thinner than 2x lumber joists would have been, the common 15" wide insulation doesn't fit. I had to get a 16" wide insulation normally used with metal framing.
Since the loft is considered "habitable space" the garage ceiling needs to be finished with 5/8" type X fire rated sheetrock. The lift will definitely help out here with the 11' ceiling height and 12' sheets!
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The stairwell outside wall is also insulated to about R19, being 2x6 construction.
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This is what I have to wrestle the sheetrock through to get it up to the loft. I'm limited to using 8' sheets as nothing longer will fit through here.
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Had to put in a steel exterior type door up here for fire separation.
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Gerald O

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The bath gets insulated with no inside vapor barrier to prevent trapping water in the walls. I used some filament tape in a few spots to keep the insulation in place until I get it covered up.
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The shower walls are going to be tiled, so this area gets cement backer board. Then this will get covered with a waterproof membrane (Kerdi) under the tile.
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Gerald O

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Now that it's all closed in and insulated the heat pump is keeping the loft nice and warm. It was time to add some 'furniture' so I can rest and admire my work. :p
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Gerald O

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Slow but steady, made some progress on hanging the sheetrock. Takes a while working by myself on the odd weekends and evenings.

Finished sheetrocking the loft and part of the stairwell. The stairwell is a bit tricky due to the height. I have to set up a working platform and move it for just about every piece. Lots of angles. Once I get past this stairway then its on to the ceiling of the garage. That should go pretty quickly--it'll be just about the only area that won't have needed lots of angles and cuts.
 

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Gerald O

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The bathroom is done with the green board on the walls since there's going to be a tile wainscot. The vintage in-the-wall, metal medicine cabinet/mirror, and wall-hung sink are test fitted.

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Gerald O

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Garage "Fridge"

With the weather turning warm I've actually had to start putting on the AC while working out here.

Every garage needs a 'fridge' for drinks, right?
I stumbled on a great deal on this original unrestored 1958 Cavalier Coke machine a few days ago. Just got it cleaned up, and now it's stocked with Coke and beer.

Anybody got a dime? :beer:
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Gerald O

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Thanks! I've got a 1987 Williams "Big Guns" machine, and a 1988 Data East "Torpedo Alley". These are both triple ball machines. Big Guns is working well, but the Torpedo Alley needs work on the electronics.
 

Ren4099

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I'm in the process of building a 24'x40' pole barn but, have not started a build thread. I have a Star Wars Episode 1, Black Knight, Black Hole, Space Invaders, Gorgar, and a United Beta Puck Bowler. I'm sure a few will end up in my barn but, they will probably be new additions. You can never have too many machines! I'm also working on a MAME arcade machine project. I have played Big Guns but, not the Torpedo alley. I like to work on them. Too bad you are not local to me. We could get that other machine up and running.
 
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Gerald O

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Which of those pinballs is your favorite?
When I lived in California years ago they used to have these big arcade machine auctions at the fairgrounds. We'd pick up two or three used machines at a time for $50 to $500 and put them in the basement game room. More video consoles than pinballs. When we'd get bored of a machine we'd take it to the next auction to sell, then bring back something different. The two pinballs I have now were the last ones I kept for the move to NC.

One challenge with setting up the machines in the new garage loft will be the sloped ceiling. That kind of limits the choices of where I can place them. I want to reserve part of the one tall wall that adjoins the bathroom for a dartboard area. The coke machine will probably stay downstairs in the garage.
 

dan10101

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Great build Gerald.
I'll be watching carefully to see how you progress.
I'm taking over someone else's 24x36 unfinished shop with unfinished loft. I need all the ideas I can get!
Dan
 

mwbailey

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Looking good, Gerald O. Wondering how you'll keep the water in the corner shower?! I had assumed glass door for my shower until I found out what the price was! Ended up with "custom made" shower rod from conduit and shower curtain with inner liner. Works OK and lots cheaper.

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65cayne

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The bath gets insulated with no inside vapor barrier to prevent trapping water in the walls. I used some filament tape in a few spots to keep the insulation in place until I get it covered up.
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Is this how all bathrooms are done? Never seen/heard that before.

You did a MASTERFUL job on loft insulation by the way. Hats off to you. It looks great.

-Kevin
 
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Gerald O

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Great build Gerald.
I'll be watching carefully to see how you progress.
I'm taking over someone else's 24x36 unfinished shop with unfinished loft. I need all the ideas I can get!
Dan
Thanks Dan. I hope you can use some of my solutions, or at least learn from them. I think I may have spent as much time scratching my head trying to decide how to do something as the actual doing of it.

Looking good, Gerald O. Wondering how you'll keep the water in the corner shower?! I had assumed glass door for my shower until I found out what the price was! Ended up with "custom made" shower rod from conduit and shower curtain with inner liner. Works OK and lots cheaper.
Nothing wrong with your solution. It's certainly less expensive, simple, and does the job! I had a certain theme in mind when I designed this bathroom. I wanted to capture the idea of "retro-future". Think "The Jetsons" in the 1950s. This is the complete 2-piece shower kit I chose:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_74605-45300...roduct_qty_sales_dollar|1&facetInfo=Round#img

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I'm going to try to continue the retro-future theme elsewhere in the garage as well.

Is this how all bathrooms are done? Never seen/heard that before.
You did a MASTERFUL job on loft insulation by the way. Hats off to you. It looks great.
-Kevin
Thanks for the praise Kevin. I think your question is referring to the vapor barrier? I don't know how prevalent this practice is yet, I don't do this for a living. But it is my understanding from reading that it is currently considered best practice for bathrooms. The theory is that it is unavoidable that some water is going to get into the walls. My experience from tearing out and remodeling older bathrooms is that it is true. Using an inside vapor barrier material only delays the process. But it also delays the drying of water that does make it in even longer. So it is thought that allowing the wall to breath is the best compromise that results in keeping it drier. The exhaust fan is also expected to be used when steaming the place up during a shower. There is still a water barrier membrane that will go over the cement backer board in the shower behind the tile.
 

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Yep, I like the retro/Jetsons look. Also, would seem to work well with your pinball machines, depending on their era! Your garage is a bit more "finished" than my barn and probably needs a fancier shower. . . . Good luck.

You've put a bunch of work into this thing. My skin itches as I look through your insulation work. And the last (and only) time I did any drywall was in an "above-the-garage" bonus room. I figured the 12-footers would reduce the hardest part of the job -- taping and mudding. I didn't realize how heavy those sheets are!
 

hop up

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Great garage and love the build and thanks for sharing . If I may ask what is the highest point of the building. I am planning on building a 24x32 with a 18.foot height .
 
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Gerald O

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Great garage and love the build and thanks for sharing . If I may ask what is the highest point of the building. I am planning on building a 24x32 with a 18.foot height .

It's roughly about 24' from grade to peak, depending on where you mark the ground level (slight slope). That's with an 11 foot ceiling in the garage.

Why only go to 18 feet? Are you planning on a loft?
 
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Gerald O

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It's been 3 weeks since I posted any progress, so I guess I better show that I haven't been slacking. much.

Got the stairwell rocked. This was all done in 5/8 type x. Heavy stuff!
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Top of the stairwell where it turns at the landing was a big pain because of crooked, misaligned wall sections that the framers left for me. Had to do a lot of shimming to get a flat enough surface to hang the sheetrock. For the most part I've been lucky and things have been pretty square, but here and there I find stuff they did that is just **** work.
 

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Doing the ceiling now in the garage. All 5/8 type 'x' per code. The sheetrock lift has been getting put to good use. It says it's rated for 11'-5" maximum lift. This ceiling is at 11'-3" so it just makes it.
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I started in the back-left corner and am working from left to right towards the front. Good thing most of the stuff in here is on wheels so I can roll it around for working room.
 

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Gerald O

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I needed to build a soffit around the bathroom drain stack where it jogs out past the wall.

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It looked kind of odd to me by itself. Seemed like it wanted some lights under it, so I added 2 light boxes and another wall switch.

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Scott, I'll have to see what kind of suggestions you get because honestly I haven't decided for myself yet. The bath is going to have a hexagonal mosaic tile, but beyond that I don't know.

I want something that is easy to clean and kind of rugged. I'm thinking of giving it a somewhat retro industrial look. One possibility is a mix of vintage pattern VCT tile in the dormer area, and an industrial office type of carpet in the rest.
 

andyaus

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Looking good :) can I make 1 suggestion though :dunno: where it is stepped out for the stairs, can you continue that framing on so you dont have multiple different angles?

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Gerald O

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Looking good :) can I make 1 suggestion though :dunno: where it is stepped out for the stairs, can you continue that framing on so you dont have multiple different angles?

Hey Andy, I know what you mean about all the angles. It looks kind of busy. I actually thought about doing what you suggested already with carrying the angled part all the way across. Logic says that would streamline the look but my gut says no. Thanks for working up the visualization for me; I think it confirms my choice. If you step back a bit and take in the whole wall, I think the door underneath and the angle of the staircase to the right balances it out. If I put in that extra angled area my OCD would nag me every time I passed it climbing the stairs. :lol:

Anyway, the ceiling is all done now. I'll see if I can live with it.
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Gerald O

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Picked up a few items at the flea market today.
Got a couple of ammo boxes. I'll use one of them for storing my black powder supplies. They have a nice rubber seal so might also be good for storing other stuff that needs to be kept dry.

This old fire extinguisher looked pretty cool after I cleaned it up. I'm going to see if I can make it serviceable. It's just missing the acid bottle that goes inside. This thing is heavy, probably worth what I paid just in the scrap value of the copper and brass!
 

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Got the garage walls insulated now with R-19 fiberglass. I don't yet have the garage AC installed so I've been cooling by running the upstairs unit and leaving the upstairs door open. Enough cool air spills down the stairwell to keep it fairly comfortable in the garage. Getting the insulation done down here made a huge difference in keeping it cooled.

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Gerald O

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Now for getting the wall coverings up. The back wall is getting done first with 1/2" Hardie backer cement board. This is glued and screwed to the studs. Takes about 60 or 70 screws per sheet.

On top of that is going to go thin brick veneer that will be adhered with thinset and mortared in the joints to look like a brick wall.

Sorry for the low quality phone pictures.

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Thanks. It's nice to have easy access to cold drinks while working in there. But I think I might have to put something in the machine with less calories because I end up drinking a lot! :drink:
 
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Gerald O

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Got all the HardieBacker up. Next job is to hang the remaining drywall and start taping.
 

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Gerald O

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Not much happening in these occasional updates. This incremental progress is probably about as interesting as watching paint dry. But posting here helps keep me motivated.

So I got all the sheetrock up except for the walls under the stairs. I got to the point where I need to decide how I'm going to finish that spot, and there's a ton or so of cartons of brick veneer in the way. I'm getting tired of just moving the brick around, so I decided this is a good time to actually start putting the brick up.

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The back wall is getting done in brick, and I don't want drywall mud getting in the brickwork. So I need to tape and mud that area first. I got started on that last night. I'm still shuffling all the garage contents around wherever I need to work but at least most of it is on wheels. Getting that stack of brick out of the way should clear a good amount of floor space.

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Gerald O

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Oops!

Just made things harder for my garage finishing progress.
I accidentally won this Mustang on ebay and it followed me home. Now I've got to get rid of the rat-rod in the other garage so I can get some working space back.

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Gerald O

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Front end do-over

Not construction related but,

I got the '65 for the wife, but the brakes are not so good (stock non-power drums). So it's getting a front-end makeover.
Decided to upgrade to power disc brakes up front. While I was in there I started noticing things that 'might as well' be done. You know how that goes... ended up ripping everything out. :willy_nil
 

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Gerald O

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New front suspension, steering, and power front disk brakes installed in the '65.
 

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Gerald O

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Started doing the brick veneer on the back wall. This is how far I got after about 3 days work. At this rate I should have it all up in a year or so...

Some of my bricks fell off the wall after a couple days. I think it's because the mortar dried too quickly and I didn't skim coat the backer board. I had to redo those and then started keeping the wall wet by spraying it with water about twice a day. The HardieBacker cement board ***** the water out of the mortar really fast, even if it's pre-dampened. After this sets up for a week or so I'll check to see how well it's holding before I continue.

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