THE WALKER-TURNER THREAD - Post your Walker-Turner pics

[Erik The Red]

Here is my 1939 16" Walker Turner Bandsaw that I have been rebuilding over the last two years. Every part has been disassembled, cleaned, primed, painted and greased. The saw runs quiet and has very little vibration, it stands over 6 feet tall and weighs around 600 lbs. I welded a custom stand that makes moving it around the shop easy, just don't grab it by the table and break a trunnion!





The fence is off of a WT table saw, it fits perfectly on the original rails that came with the bandsaw. It also has a fine micro-adjustment knob which is a nice feature to have on the fence.

The WT miter gauge also is an interesting design. It has a spring loaded knob that can set the gauge at preset angles. I love that the knurled knobs are present on the gauge, fence, and saw. WT honestly put knurling on everything, its so great.






The color for the saw was custom matched from the original paint. It is an oil based alkyd enamel that I sprayed via HVLP.



I was able to track down the ever elusive slow speed gear reduction. THANK YOU @Hoorn !!!! This thing is so cool, it slows the blade speed down for metal cutting by transferring the driveshaft onto an extra gear. Its entirely mechanical, I put a whole pint of red n tacky grease in that gearbox and it works perfectly. Some people say they have experienced a reduction in power or increase of noise or vibration, you just got to make sure everything is oiled, greased, and aligned correctly as there are quite a few moving parts.



The saw is powered by a 1/2 HP WT motor. I will try and get a separate post uploaded that goes more in-depth with the bandsaw restoration process. It took multiple machines to piece this beauty together and I'm still not finished...more to come!

 

[Hoorn]

@Erik The Red magnificent bandsaw! What all Walker Turner bandsaws should aspire to be. Extremely well done, thank you for sharing. Really top drawer process.

 

[JEFinCLE]

Simply stunning. Well done.

 

[Corndoggeh]

That thing is a monster. Even the front panels are cast iron?

 

[Hoorn]

@Corndoggeh I dove into the WT bandsaw deep end years ago, and yes! The wheel covers are solid cast iron! It's ridiculous how heavy a Walker Turner bandsaw is, but all that added weight goes toward stability. There is zero vibration on a 16" even with the toughest wood.

The famed Delta bandsaws used thin wood guides as blade guards, the WT uses cast iron for that too. The solution to any problem in the 1930s was just add more cast iron!

 

[Corndoggeh]

@Hoorn Certainly no expense spared on those units. The only WT tools I've seen were the smaller driver line which I've always dismissed.

 

[Mintgrun]

There is a Driver Line 3/4 HP 3450 double arbor motor on a Delta Homecraft table saw at a local Habitat store for $50. The sign says "needs new motor." Today I was talking to the guy that prices things, intending to ask if they'd sell the "bad" motor separately and before I got around to asking, he volunteered that a guy had tried to buy just the motor and he'd said no. So I told him he answered my question before I managed to ask it. That's okay. I don't need another project

Well, they lowered the price to $25 and it sat long enough for them to mark it 25% off, so, in a moment of weakness I purchased another Rockwell Delta table saw. (That makes number four ). This is the motor that came with the saw.



I plugged it in when I got it home and it needs a little push to start spinning, then it runs like a champ. I hope that doesn't mean it needs a new capacitor.

When I said "I don't need another project" in the quote above, I was really saying, "I don't know much about repairing electric motors." (I didn't need another table saw either). Is there a chance that cleaning something internal might make it work again? It sure sounds good when it's running.



Tom

 

[humber2]

Check the centrifugal switch isn’t sticking stuck open as the capacitor should be in circuit at standstill.

Can you hear the switch click as the motor spins up and again as it slows to a stop?

 

[Hoorn]

@Mintgrun were you able to determine the motor issue? A quick way to establish whether or not your capacitor is bad is to attach it to a multimeter and check to see if the capacitance value is within the measurement range.

 

[Hoorn]

Wanted to show this 1939 Walker Turner Jackshaft still wearing it's original paint and water slide decals.





The gold leaf in this SKF decal is still in gorgeous condition, and in general it is still very vibrant.

I've always found SKFs sales pitch amusing; declaring that your product is the world's most expensive.



Here it is in the 1939 catalog.

 

[Mintgrun]

I'm sorry for not reporting back. I have not determined the issue and figured I'd post when I had more to share. Sometimes I plug it in and it spins right up, but other times it just hums. I tried rotating the shaft a bit and plugging it in again and after another try or two it spins again.

I blew about a pound of sawdust out of it, but that didn't make a difference.

I have a very basic multimeter and a condenser tester as well. What I don't have is an understanding of basic electrical theory.

Could I use this to test the capacitor? I've used it on condensers and it does work.



Thank you for the response humber2. If there is any clicking happening, it is very faint.

Tom

 

[Hoorn]

I don't think you would be able to accurately test a capacitor using that. Here is a fairly simple description on how to test and determine a bad capacitor.

Beyond that, they are very inexpensive and if you're looking to get the motor up and running, take it apart, clean it out with CRC electrical cleaner, replace the bearings and capacitor and you're almost assured of having a smooth running motor once back together.

 

[whateg01]

As requested, here's a pic of my 1100 I picked up a few days ago. Probably won't get to restoring it as there's work to do. Maybe when I retire.

 

[Hoorn]

@whateg01 that will make for a nice project one day. That DP was introduced in 1943, here it is as it first appeared in the WT catalog. They really emphasized the power feed models as this was certainly designed for manufacturing:




The only image WT had available without the power feed option.



If you ever need an exploded view.

 

[whateg01]

@whateg01 that will make for a nice project one day. That DP was introduced in 1943, here it is as it first appeared in the WT catalog. They really emphasized the power feed models as this was certainly designed for manufacturing:

...

The only image WT had available without the power feed option.

...

If you ever need an exploded view.

Thanks for posting those!

Interesting all the different motor options available back then. That gives me a better idea of what might be considered adequate for mine. I was going to stick a 1 hp motor I have on it, and that looks to be right in line with what they offered. I see they offered a 6 pole motor as an option. I do have a 6 pole motor but I don't remember the hp. That 380 rpm gear motor must have made this thing a beast for drilling big holes.

I did notice a lot of the pictures I see online are if models with power feed so that must have been popular.

 

[bmwrd0]

I picked up this old girl today:


It needs a left-hand outer wheel cover, but as you can see, both eye shields are there and it is still in original paint. Not bad for $100

 

[Maui]

Erik, very nice work on the restoration of that 1939 band saw! I have the same one, but mine did not come with the gear reduction pulley or the cast iron base. It did come with a solidly built steel base on cast iron casters so I can wheel it around the shop with ease. And I can confirm it is a beast of a bandsaw. A very nice feature of this particular model is that you can hang the motor off of the back of the saw, which is what I have done. So you are not constricted by what would fit inside the cast iron base. I have an old school 1 hp motor that powers mine, and it runs beautifully.

 

[Erik The Red]

Thank you Maul, the saw has been a long restoration project, it did not come with all the parts. I was able to acquire the body locally and found the rest of the extras online or from other garage journal members. The base came off of a second 16" saw from a metal shop in LA. The gear box and miter gauge off a 14" saw from a friend. The rear mount motor option is very cool, I also have one attached but I decided to go with the lower mounting in the base to keep the footprint smaller.

 

[AK Coot]

I bought this from a out of town guy 220 miles away. I had a friend close to him go pick it up and it’s waiting for me to come get it. It has a bad start capacitor but it runs with a spin just fine. I’ll have to look it over when I get it but should be a good one to clean up.

 

[whateg01]

I bought this from a out of town guy 220 miles away. I had a friend close to him go pick it up and it’s waiting for me to come get it. It has a bad start capacitor but it runs with a spin just fine. I’ll have to look it over when I get it but should be a good one to clean up.

Looks like a good candidate for a repro switch housing!

 

[AK Coot]

You don’t like that 60’s look switch? Lol.

 

[Redline1187]

Great thread. Here is my KG4 that is on the todo list to give some tlc and a once over. Still works. Pretty amazing considering its age and condition and considering it sat under water for a week during Harvey back in 2017.

 

[bmwrd0]

I was able to get my new (to me) grinder set up on its new (to me) stand:

and in the process, my pre-war Craftsman went to a very happy new owner. I still need to do a bit of cleaning on this one, along with finding a side cover. But, I was able to get my preferred wheel set up on and ready to go, along with a new cord.

 

[Ohmanshawn]

I’m going to pick one up tomorrow!

 

[Ohmanshawn]

Says it works

 

[Robvulaj]

Heres a 22-639 16" bandsaw. I picked up today for 100 bucks. All adjustments and shafts turn freely but will need to try and find a garbox for this and give the whole thing a little restoration.

 

[Hoorn]

@Robvulaj $100 for the 16" with cast iron base:

 

[Robvulaj]

Heres the model 1-1140 floor standing drill press i have in my basement shop.

 

[Hoorn]

Nice floor model. Looks like an Atlas base found its way onto your 900 series.
You have some great eye candy in the background as well, that Craftsman lathe looks to be in great condition.

 

[Erik The Red]

@Robvulaj Nice drill press, I also see an Atlas XY vise hiding under the wood! Great setup you have.

 

[lafester]

If anyone has a WT grinder f/s please pm. Thanks! Currently my only WT tool is my Craftsman 16" bandsaw. Love it and will never sell. I've only had a few other tools.. 10" table saw, bench top dp, small wood lathe, and the quality is really something to behold. I wish WT had a chance to stick around longer but Delta out produced them.

 

[psikora1]

Is there a way to date the motors? I have this one on a South Bend lathe made 12-17-29 but the label on the motor says Plainfield, which earlier in the thread said they moved there in 1931.

 

[PeterPeter]

Hey Hoorn, thanks for pointing me in this here direction. Nice thread you’re building here. I too, was surprised GJ didn’t have a W/T thread…. I buy, fix, and sell old machines, and W/T are some of my favorites. Here is my latest machine, as I found it, that I’m almost ready to put up for sale:





I’m sure you can relate to just how excited I was to find this completely intact, 1937/8 D925! Ok. So maybe I exaggerated. The chuck key, the link belt, and the bolt that locks the motor mount have been replaced

Here’s what it looks like now, after having been completely disassembled (other than the chuck, which won’t budge) cleaned, and greased. I touched up the black paint, and took the remaining paint off the spike, but other than that, it’s all OEM. Oh. Thought I’d complete the package with a belt cover from a slightly younger machine. Still deciding where to put the switch (it was unbolted to the motor mount) there are no mounting holes on the casting, as well as whether to reuse the cord: it is perfectly supple, but not grounded. At 0.002 runout, this machine is good as new:





Peter Peter, a guy so nice, they named me twice.

 

[Hoorn]

An outstanding job Peter, a perfect example of a 900 series with all the bells and whistles. Love that you maintained the original paint, including on the ship's wheel.

Most of the W-T 900 series that had the original switch that I've seen, it was mounted on the left side of the head frame. If you're not keen on the idea of drilling holes into the head frame, I would mount the switch adjacent to the base on whatever workbench or platform you will have the drill press on. Save the original cord and purchase a new one for the added length.

A truly beautiful DP.

 

[PeterPeter]

I like the deck mounting idea. Always thought the switch on the side cramped both the return spring, and the head lock. And the uncluttered look is nice.

Speaking of head lock, I hate the Zamack inserts they use. True they don’t rust, but these things just plain get stuck every time you lock them down. I have done a bunch of sanding, wire wheel, and buffing, oiling and graphite, but stick is what they do.

There is also a sticky spot when lowering the quill. Have been working at the quill, the shaft, and the rack, but can’t identify where the jam is.

 

[Hoorn]

The die cast zamak used on the old machines is nobody's friend. Savvy 1940-50s Craftsman drill press users switch these die cast headlocks out with the one piece steel of the late 1950s.

W-T's singular worst use of zamak has got to be the upper wheel guide assembly adjustable bracket for their bandsaws. This critical part, which supports the entire upper cast iron wheel is zamak and frequently is broken or stripped of its threads.

As for your quill, is it sticking in both directions, up and down, or just one direction?

 

[Erik The Red]

WT switches always seem to be mounted in various areas on the tools. On bandsaws and lathes I have seen them all over the palace, drill presses seem to be more regularly mounted in a common area. I think this is because the remote switches were an add on that either the buyer or machine tool seller would attach as the tools they did not come from the factory with any kind of switch or motor installed. Most likely some guys did not want to pay that extra $$ for a switch and that's why so many WT tools have homemade switches located in different places of the tool and stand.
In the 1939 WT catalogue information on the switch explicitly states you can put the switch anywhere! It even shows a photo of a switch in what I think is the most logical spot for drill presses, the left hand side of the head casting. You can also see other addons to WT tools like lamps as the company offered many different things you could put on.....all for a price of course!

I also have a WT 900 in similar all original condition to yours @PeterPeter that I just finished a restoration of.
On mine I could also describe my quill as having a certain "stickiness" to it. Everything is polished and lubed up but still the quill spring will not return the quill 100% of the time with satisfactory tension. Sometimes I have to encourage it back up a bit, other times it springs back up without a problem. I have fiddled with it a bit to try and solve the areas of tension but have made no major change. I ordered a brand new spring and even with that it still had return problems. Not sure if this is the same problem you are experiencing.
My personal conclusion is that its caused by the design of the spring and spring housing which causes inadequate pressure onto the quill for its return. The design works but I also have an Atlas drill press of similar vintage and the difference between the two machines is astounding. The Atlas has much more well thought-out design around the spring housing areas, and the fit and function of the parts are of much better quality. In my opinion the design department at WT tools spent more time with the aesthetic quality's of their machines rather than the flawless functioning of all the parts. I still love my ships wheel because it just looks so cool, even if it feels like a inferior machine to the Atlas.




Seeing your photos Peter I am very jealous of your belt cover, I am now going to have to find my own!
Great restoration, yours looks to be even older than mine with that driver line badging.

 

[whateg01]

On quill return springs, some are very thin and if there is a bit of semi-thick oil between a couple turns, it can cause it to hang up. That generally feels different than the quill binding or dragging though.

 

[PeterPeter]

The quill actually stops, and the force doubled to get it to go down, or up, in exactly the same spot. I just emery clothed the top of the shaft with it under power. No dice. Im putting it aside for now. Fresh eyes work better.

“Seeing your photos Peter I am very jealous of your belt cover, I am now going to have to find my own!
Great restoration, yours looks to be even older than mine with that driver line badging.”

I once let a cast iron cover slide through my hands. That’s ok. A fair amount of cash salved my wounds. I found three of them (cast aluminum) this summer; I was saving this for a deserving project. That 39 badge is the rarest of them all! I love that one. Cutler-Hammer wasn’t very impressed, tho. The real tell that this machine is older, is the smooth, square depth stop rod, with the funky Zamack stop. That’s bindy, too.

I am almost done with a 30’s Atlas/CMan press. The table lift had Zamack locks. I ended up smashing them to pieces. The rest of the machine had flawless steel locks. I do love the other engineering, too. The return spring is miles above everyone else.

 

[whateg01]

The quill actually stops, and the force doubled to get it to go down, or up, in exactly the same spot. I just emery clothed the top of the shaft with it under power. No dice. Im putting it aside for now. Fresh eyes work better.

“Seeing your photos Peter I am very jealous of your belt cover, I am now going to have to find my own!
Great restoration, yours looks to be even older than mine with that driver line badging.”

I once let a cast iron cover slide through my hands. That’s ok. A fair amount of cash salved my wounds. I found three of them (cast aluminum) this summer; I was saving this for a deserving project. That 39 badge is the rarest of them all! I love that one. Cutler-Hammer wasn’t very impressed, tho. The real tell that this machine is older, is the smooth, square depth stop rod, with the funky Zamack stop. That’s bindy, too.

I am almost done with a 30’s Atlas/CMan press. The table lift had Zamack locks. I ended up smashing them to pieces. The rest of the machine had flawless steel locks. I do love the other engineering, too. The return spring is miles above everyone else.

You have two things that slide. The quill through the head casting, and the spindle through the pulley. If you drop the spindle out, that might help narrow it down. You might find that the spindle is bent or twisted.