MrPink
Well-known member
Instead of the electronic push button style, it will have either a twist valve or a lever.
Above 1200 Sq/FT The Warthog Hidey Hole
- Thread starter jbmatth
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Or a spring loaded knob
The one I bought:
www.summitracing.com
https://www.summitracing.com/search...TxNO4lddLaqhMORKXUDQszOXnfdmT0rIaAkYrEALw_wcB
The one I bought:
Allstar Performance ALL48010 Allstar Performance Brake Shut-Off Valves | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Allstar Performance Brake Shut-Off Valves with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Shut-Off Valves at Summit Racing.
MrPink
Well-known member
For my setup I went with an electronic one, but that is what works best for me.
Thanks for the info.
I assume when using either one you have to have the knob in reach of the driver so they can be used when using the brake pedal? I didn't know anything about these specifically for brake line use.Or a spring loaded knob
https://www.summitracing.com/search...TxNO4lddLaqhMORKXUDQszOXnfdmT0rIaAkYrEALw_wcB
The one I bought:
Allstar Performance ALL48010 Allstar Performance Brake Shut-Off Valves | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Allstar Performance Brake Shut-Off Valves with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Shut-Off Valves at Summit Racing.
I think I'd likely do the same, just because I don't want anything else in the cabin of the car than I already have, and with my seat belt on there is no place to put it I can reach besides the trans tunnel.
Not much on the car the past couple days, I did pick up a new chassis yesterday though but it was after dark so no photos.
I did get a call that my computer and harness arrived at Mast from Holley finely yesterday. They have to repin a few things and will load my tune on there and test run it before sending it my way. Also today is my last day at work for 17 days so I'll hopefully get quite a bit of work done on the cobra before coming back to work. This is my longest vacation since I started working at 14 years old, wow, over 21 years ago now...
Keep moving forward,
JB
MrPink
Well-known member
Nice, I am awaiting a bunch of back-ordered stuff to clear for work lol we have some fun things we are doing, my build however, is slowing down due to weather change.
rattle_snake
Well-known member
The manual valve can be used in front or rear circuit, depending on how you want it to work (hold vs block). With manual trans and only 2 feet, you want it in the front circuit to hold pressure. This would require running brake lines to/from driver compartment so you can reach the control knob/lever. The benefit of electric type is mounting location, just run a wire/switch to driver area.
I use a computer monitor cord connector so I can disconnect line lock and nitrous controls when not needed. Did I mention yet that a nitrous system would be a good addition to the new motor?
I use a computer monitor cord connector so I can disconnect line lock and nitrous controls when not needed. Did I mention yet that a nitrous system would be a good addition to the new motor?
So far it hasn't been too bad once I got the engine everything I've been able to find in stock somewhere, but I'm sure that'll change when I need one last part to make it run.
Good to know I wasn't too far off base in my thinking. I like the idea of one quick disconnect to kill all of those systems, slick. I thought about a little bottled atmosphere but will probably pass, I need all the trunk space I can get on trips, I guess I could put a sneaky Pete system under the passenger seat F&F style.
JB
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Put the Corolla on it!
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Talk about burning the candle at both ends!Older 4wd truck chassis for another project I don't need.
JB
Oldsnapper
Well-known member
Line lock might not be good idea as parking brake due to the fact that if it is set and there is any leakage or bypassing, the brakes would be released possibly causing a runaway vehicle if unattended.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
If you are referring to me, there will be no runaways. Its a manual transmission with double transfer cases in a trail rig so it'll be in low-low most of the time.
Now for a vehicle on the street with no low gears...that's a different story.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Nice work on the cobra fitting everything in that small frame. Keep up the good work and hope you enjoy your vacation.
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving
MrPink
Well-known member
JB any updates? Hope you had a good Turkey day.
You know that thought has crossed my mind, time will tell but I still haven't gotten the Corolla yet...Put the Corolla on it!
No rest for the wicked.Talk about burning the candle at both ends!
I moved the brake lines during my time off so putting one on will be much easier in the future, but didn't decide to go for it at this time, too much else still needing to be done.
Right or wrong I rarely ever use the parking break in a manual trans, but also don't park an hills very often at all, just put it in first and move along. So far I've been okay, but it could have easily gone south and now probably will that I mentioned it.If you are referring to me, there will be no runaways. Its a manual transmission with double transfer cases in a trail rig so it'll be in low-low most of the time.
Now for a vehicle on the street with no low gears...that's a different story.
Thank you Drives, I did manage to get a lot of work done on the car and will share more when I get more caught up on everything, but pretty behind at work for the time being.
I have lots of updates, I did manage to take a lot of photos but certainly not enough. I will in time but no time right now to do the writeup any justice. Thanksgiving was great, got to see a lot of my family and worked on a '65 Mustang my brothers own that wasn't running after a rebuild. Long story short it runs, but not great at all. Verified the firing order with the valve covers off, checked spark at each plug, cleaned points, spark looks good, it gets gas to the carb and will start but sounds like it is running on 4 cylinders. I left them with the task to check compression on all 8, and swap to a spare distributer cap other than that I have no clue what it could be.
More to come,
JB
MrPink
Well-known member
If worse comes to worse, swap in the motor that you pulled from the Cobra, it should fit right in right?
That engine and trans are slated to go in his '66 Mustang that is in much better condition and I'm supposed to get his old engine and trans. The '65 Mustang is VERY rough, lots of holes in the floor, trunk, etc. They got it in on a trade deal for building a deck for a previous co-worker and she even paid for the deck materials. They would have been better off to just selling it off of the trailer but hindsight doesn't bring back the money they spent on it already.
JB
MrPink
Well-known member
makes sense
Okay, I'm finely caught up on every other thread I follow (hopefully) so here goes. I'll start with the non-car related stuff first, during my break of 16 days away from work 3 were spent traveling and visiting family for Thanksgiving and another day spent helping a brother move. So I didn't have that entire time to play...I mean work on the cobra. I also lost a day to deer hunting, it was opening day the first Saturday I was off, missed my window to get out early enough to go to the stand I built last year so I just sat in a folding chair at the pond by an evergreen. I had a couple of does very interested in me and one about tried to sit in my lap. Then as they go sidetracked by a smaller buck trying to play with them this guy shows up about 130 yards out and that was all it took:
He was a pretty big boy, weighed 231 lbs live, luckily I let the tractor do all the heavy lifting for me, I just had to get him in the bucket:
I had the head done in a European mount and it came out great:
See in the garage, so not too far off topic. Cobra info to follow...
JB
He was a pretty big boy, weighed 231 lbs live, luckily I let the tractor do all the heavy lifting for me, I just had to get him in the bucket:
I had the head done in a European mount and it came out great:
See in the garage, so not too far off topic. Cobra info to follow...
JB
Now on to the cobra, when I last left off I had just finished getting the starter installed before starting on the passenger header, well I noticed I didn't finish all of the welding on the drivers side side pipe:
This was the drivers side side pipe and naturally like the header the 2" collector flange didn't fit the 2" pipes, lots of time with a die grinder and lots of time with a welder and this is what I was left with. I welded out 100% on the inside and the outside welds are more for some extra support than anything which is why they don't go all of the way around. Bolted it on and boom drivers side done:
I started on the passenger side, not the best welds but I got to where I was feeling much better about them most of the time:
And sometimes I just felt like I didn't have enough clamps:
The fixturing holes in the table sure came in handy for this job. Slowly but surely the header started coming together:
Until it and the side pipe were finely complete:
One thing I didn't take a photo of was the flange face surfaces, after all of the welding I had a few protrusions of metal I had to clean up to give the gasket surface a nice smooth place to seal against. Also while cleaning up the welding table I picked up all of the loose ends from the tig rod, I used a lot of tig rod on this job:
More to come...
JB
This was the drivers side side pipe and naturally like the header the 2" collector flange didn't fit the 2" pipes, lots of time with a die grinder and lots of time with a welder and this is what I was left with. I welded out 100% on the inside and the outside welds are more for some extra support than anything which is why they don't go all of the way around. Bolted it on and boom drivers side done:
I started on the passenger side, not the best welds but I got to where I was feeling much better about them most of the time:
And sometimes I just felt like I didn't have enough clamps:
The fixturing holes in the table sure came in handy for this job. Slowly but surely the header started coming together:
Until it and the side pipe were finely complete:
One thing I didn't take a photo of was the flange face surfaces, after all of the welding I had a few protrusions of metal I had to clean up to give the gasket surface a nice smooth place to seal against. Also while cleaning up the welding table I picked up all of the loose ends from the tig rod, I used a lot of tig rod on this job:
More to come...
JB
jbrentd
Well-known member
Header looks great! Once my garage is finished, one of the first things I want to do is make a welding table. I figure it would be a good way for me to learn and would make a nice addition as well.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Nice work on the headers JB!
Buck mount looks good!
Buck mount looks good!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Very nice work on the headers JB. Looks like you've been welding collectors and flanges for years.
Now go fuse all of those TIG rod remnants together and get another full length or two. Waste not want not.
Now go fuse all of those TIG rod remnants together and get another full length or two. Waste not want not.
iced98lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Headers look great! Excellent execution there.
What's your favorite thing to eat from the deer? Backstrap steaks are one of mine but also love getting some good sticks & jerky out of the deal too.
When I was a kid my dad would make most of his deer into what we used as ground beef by mixing 1/3 deer, 1/3 beef and 1/3 pork. Most of my friends never could tell or preferred it.
What's your favorite thing to eat from the deer? Backstrap steaks are one of mine but also love getting some good sticks & jerky out of the deal too.
When I was a kid my dad would make most of his deer into what we used as ground beef by mixing 1/3 deer, 1/3 beef and 1/3 pork. Most of my friends never could tell or preferred it.
I'm by no means an expert on welding, nor am I very good with it, but I can get metal to stick together...usually. Having a good welding table has been an awesome addition to the shop and being 1" thick it makes for a very sturdy table.
Thank you Outlaw, I was very thrilled with this buck, no trophy, but by far the biggest I've ever taken.
I'm not even 1/10th of the welder you are Mike, but thank you. *hint* I only show the best welds I made, the other 387 are not as presentable.Very nice work on the headers JB. Looks like you've been welding collectors and flanges for years.
Now go fuse all of those TIG rod remnants together and get another full length or two. Waste not want not.
I think I'll pass on that one, it'd take a week to find them in the scrap metal bin.
Thank you iced, it was a "fun" project, but not one I want to get into again for a while, it was very time consuming.
I'm right there with you, backstrap steak, even making a steak from the roast isn't too bad marinated right. I get my deer processed, normally I just wouldn't have the time especially if I get one during the week and it isn't cold enough here to let it hang more than over night if you are lucky. When I do I always have them mix it with at least 10% beef, but never thought about having them throw some pork in as well. That does sound very tasty.
JB
Sorry in advance this is going to be pretty long and not enough photos for all of the work I did. I wanted to test fit a few more things before pulling the engine, one of them was the steering shaft as I knew it was going to be pretty close...a bit of an understatement:
The rear coil didn't fit at all as it hit the steering shaft, the second from the rear won't allow you to put the plug wire on. I've got a set of aluminum valve covers on order that supposedly fit like stock so I'll hold off on relocating the coils until they arrive. If they don't I'll move these coils up toward the fuel rail. Next I fit a few other small things, driveshaft etc before pulling the engine for final assembly. One thing I noticed was the locating dowel for the crank position sensor tone ring was missing. I took a few measurements and put a piece of 3/8" rod in the lathe and made this:
Slight press fit and we were in business:
I replaced the factory oil pan with a fabricated aluminum pan I picked up from 417 Motorsports because it was 2" shallower than the stock pan. I had to relocate the pickup for the shaft driven oil pump and for some reason Ford thought it was a good idea to not use a gasket but to use RTV. I picked up some tube keys a while back and finely got to use one, highly recommend them, gave a nice consistent bead:
While the engine was out I build the alternator mount bracket, revision 1 in my hand and 2 on the alternator for the tensioner:
What I didn't put enough thought into before making those curved tension adjusters is that the alternator mount holes are not 180° apart meaning the radius of motion for the case and the mount holes are not the same meaning those wouldn't work. So I then used the heim joints I purchased for the Festiva's tie rods and used them to make a tensioner. That proved out the concept but sadly they were too big to be used in the end. I have revision 3 done now with the right size heim joints but didn't think to get a photo of them. The little bar has a machined nub on it to fit in the other locating hole where the factory tensioner normally goes.
I then went to install the clutch, throw out bearing, and slave cylinder to measure clearances. That is when I realized the flywheel wasn't machined right from the factory, holes were in the right location but not the right diameter but did have the correct thread pitch. Maybe someone can explain how that work but I was lost. I ended up tapping the holes from the back, then had to drill out the ~1/4" (6mm) of the hole that was supposed to be non-threaded. In the end if it didn't work the supplier was going to provide the right one, but I didn't want to waste days and days waiting on it. After all installed it held torque just fine, so a dab of thread locker and I decided to weigh the complete setup:
618.8 lbs (280.76 kg) (this includes the flywheel, clutch, alternator etc but there were no fluids in the engine), the 351w in similar trim was 559.6 lbs (253.9 kg) so 59.2 lbs (26.86 kg) heavier, the new trans is 40 lbs (18.15 kg) for a total gain of 100 lbs (45.5 kg). Not a bad penalty to gain 385 hp
I then moved on to the fuel system, I picked up a drop in fuel pump, replaced the stock pickup with it and I was ready to install wiring and the new -8 an (1/2") fuel lines:
Looks like I'd already done some of the wiring on it, I did wrap the wires more later as I ran out of the braided loom in the right size. Now fuel lines installed through now larger holes:
Sadly I can't rotate the pump because of the sump in the tank, the fittings are tight and this is the best option I could come up with given the existing constraints. I put the new fuel filter on just after the supply line leaves the trunk, ran both lines to the front, installed the fuel pressure regulator and ran out of parts as I realized I'd have zero chance at making the stock fuel rails work.
As an aside, when I did the LS swap in the S10 that swap had been done hundreds of times with every part available to bolt the engine in, the only fab work I had to do was for the exhaust from the collector to the muffler. Because these Godzilla engines are so new the aftermarket support is so limited everything is expensive and there is no way to know if the part I order will even fit my needs sometimes. If I'd have waited a few years this would have been a much easier swap but oh well here we are and it is more "fun" this way I guess.
More to come,
JB
The rear coil didn't fit at all as it hit the steering shaft, the second from the rear won't allow you to put the plug wire on. I've got a set of aluminum valve covers on order that supposedly fit like stock so I'll hold off on relocating the coils until they arrive. If they don't I'll move these coils up toward the fuel rail. Next I fit a few other small things, driveshaft etc before pulling the engine for final assembly. One thing I noticed was the locating dowel for the crank position sensor tone ring was missing. I took a few measurements and put a piece of 3/8" rod in the lathe and made this:
Slight press fit and we were in business:
I replaced the factory oil pan with a fabricated aluminum pan I picked up from 417 Motorsports because it was 2" shallower than the stock pan. I had to relocate the pickup for the shaft driven oil pump and for some reason Ford thought it was a good idea to not use a gasket but to use RTV. I picked up some tube keys a while back and finely got to use one, highly recommend them, gave a nice consistent bead:
While the engine was out I build the alternator mount bracket, revision 1 in my hand and 2 on the alternator for the tensioner:
What I didn't put enough thought into before making those curved tension adjusters is that the alternator mount holes are not 180° apart meaning the radius of motion for the case and the mount holes are not the same meaning those wouldn't work. So I then used the heim joints I purchased for the Festiva's tie rods and used them to make a tensioner. That proved out the concept but sadly they were too big to be used in the end. I have revision 3 done now with the right size heim joints but didn't think to get a photo of them. The little bar has a machined nub on it to fit in the other locating hole where the factory tensioner normally goes.
I then went to install the clutch, throw out bearing, and slave cylinder to measure clearances. That is when I realized the flywheel wasn't machined right from the factory, holes were in the right location but not the right diameter but did have the correct thread pitch. Maybe someone can explain how that work but I was lost. I ended up tapping the holes from the back, then had to drill out the ~1/4" (6mm) of the hole that was supposed to be non-threaded. In the end if it didn't work the supplier was going to provide the right one, but I didn't want to waste days and days waiting on it. After all installed it held torque just fine, so a dab of thread locker and I decided to weigh the complete setup:
618.8 lbs (280.76 kg) (this includes the flywheel, clutch, alternator etc but there were no fluids in the engine), the 351w in similar trim was 559.6 lbs (253.9 kg) so 59.2 lbs (26.86 kg) heavier, the new trans is 40 lbs (18.15 kg) for a total gain of 100 lbs (45.5 kg). Not a bad penalty to gain 385 hp
I then moved on to the fuel system, I picked up a drop in fuel pump, replaced the stock pickup with it and I was ready to install wiring and the new -8 an (1/2") fuel lines:
Looks like I'd already done some of the wiring on it, I did wrap the wires more later as I ran out of the braided loom in the right size. Now fuel lines installed through now larger holes:
Sadly I can't rotate the pump because of the sump in the tank, the fittings are tight and this is the best option I could come up with given the existing constraints. I put the new fuel filter on just after the supply line leaves the trunk, ran both lines to the front, installed the fuel pressure regulator and ran out of parts as I realized I'd have zero chance at making the stock fuel rails work.
As an aside, when I did the LS swap in the S10 that swap had been done hundreds of times with every part available to bolt the engine in, the only fab work I had to do was for the exhaust from the collector to the muffler. Because these Godzilla engines are so new the aftermarket support is so limited everything is expensive and there is no way to know if the part I order will even fit my needs sometimes. If I'd have waited a few years this would have been a much easier swap but oh well here we are and it is more "fun" this way I guess.
More to come,
JB
I did get the brake lines relocated so there is more clearance to the headers, so that is done (fingers crossed). Before I installed the trans in the car I fit the hydraulic line supplied with the kit, but it didn't fit as delivered. Some bending was required but it was then installed. Fast forward to trans and engine installed to realize the hose isn't going to be long enough to reach the clutch master cylinder. I'll install that before getting a better idea on how long I need but that means I can't install the header on that side. Luckily the fitting is accessible with the trans installed.
Another hurdle was the speed sensor wouldn't fit into the trans because the trans mount was too big, from the factory it is machined off a touch but it wasn't enough so I spent a while with a die grinder making clearance. In the end it works now but I had to cut out about 1/4" of material over a 2 in^2 area. I was then to the point where I needed more parts which worked out as I had to return to work. I did have a decent beard going after such a long time off but all shaved now:
In other news the 4010 in my shop that is split was being worked on a little by the owner, he was going to replace the rear main seal, no problem except this one is a little bigger than I had tools to install at ~6.25" (~160 mm) in diameter. I looked around and saw the old water pump from Lever Action in the scrap bin, turns out it was just about perfect:
Did a little trimming in the lathe to true it up after getting it red hot with the torch, should work great for him. That is all I have for now but after 16 days off working 8-12 hours a day on it I was happy to get some rest.
JB
I'll install that before getting a better idea on how long I need but that means I can't install the header on that side. Luckily the fitting is accessible with the trans installed.Another hurdle was the speed sensor wouldn't fit into the trans because the trans mount was too big, from the factory it is machined off a touch but it wasn't enough so I spent a while with a die grinder making clearance. In the end it works now but I had to cut out about 1/4" of material over a 2 in^2 area. I was then to the point where I needed more parts which worked out as I had to return to work. I did have a decent beard going after such a long time off but all shaved now:
In other news the 4010 in my shop that is split was being worked on a little by the owner, he was going to replace the rear main seal, no problem except this one is a little bigger than I had tools to install at ~6.25" (~160 mm) in diameter. I looked around and saw the old water pump from Lever Action in the scrap bin, turns out it was just about perfect:
Did a little trimming in the lathe to true it up after getting it red hot with the torch, should work great for him. That is all I have for now but after 16 days off working 8-12 hours a day on it I was happy to get some rest.
JB
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
Nice repurpose on that pulley.
I was pleasantly surprised it worked out so well, well at least so far, he hasn't actually tried to install the new seal just yet.
With my buddy being deployed overseas for a few months I try to stop by his house every couple of weeks to start all of his vehicles and get them up to operating temperature and check everything over. I snapped this photo of his Mustang while I was there:
We could probably get rid of the cardboard as his car doesn't leak oil any longer since the rebuild last year.
I made a quick trip over to NW Arkansas this weekend to spend a bit of time with my parents for my fathers birthday weekend and to celebrate only having one year left until retirement. I debated on what to drive and in the end practicality won out, this was on their driveway which at times is exceptionally steep:
It was a fun trip, walked around the property and helped to clean up a few down trees and enjoyed some food over the fire pit.
I did a little work on the cobra when I made it home Sunday while the girls did a little Christmas shopping, realized I needed to order more parts yet again and a 90° drill, always something...
JB
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
Any reason to buy new tools is a good reason.
Grizz1963
Well-known member
That car looks right at home there.
Helping your parents is always a good and rewarding thing.
My,dad used to object, but loved telling and showing friends what I had done for him.
Helping your parents is always a good and rewarding thing.
My,dad used to object, but loved telling and showing friends what I had done for him.
I agree, I may have just picked up a couple other tools as well...
It sure is fitting in that environment, do you imagine the engineers on that project ever thought this car would be used to bomb around on back roads, gravel, mud, and rocks?
It was a fun trip and one I don't get to take often even if it ended up being a short trip.
JB
More progress on the cobra, I've promised photos of the oil pan and here you are:
I'm still waiting on a few more parts and pieces to get the oil side complete. Overall I'm very pleased with this pan and the quality, for others I hope other options are available soon for a little less money, but isn't it pretty?
I worked on installing the fuel rails last night, you can see the old one had a crossover that was pretty tall and would have likely interfered with the hood (older photo but you can see it okay here just behind the first two intake runners:
When I found out Holley just started making a fuel rail and at a very reasonable price I jumped on it and started the install last night:
I will hopefully start making the fuel lines tonight and that will not be the easiest task but should be doable. Little by little it is coming together.
JB
I'm still waiting on a few more parts and pieces to get the oil side complete. Overall I'm very pleased with this pan and the quality, for others I hope other options are available soon for a little less money, but isn't it pretty?
I worked on installing the fuel rails last night, you can see the old one had a crossover that was pretty tall and would have likely interfered with the hood (older photo but you can see it okay here just behind the first two intake runners:
When I found out Holley just started making a fuel rail and at a very reasonable price I jumped on it and started the install last night:
I will hopefully start making the fuel lines tonight and that will not be the easiest task but should be doable. Little by little it is coming together.
JB
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
More progress on the cobra, I've promised photos of the oil pan and here you are:
I'm still waiting on a few more parts and pieces to get the oil side complete. Overall I'm very pleased with this pan and the quality, for others I hope other options are available soon for a little less money, but isn't it pretty?
I worked on installing the fuel rails last night, you can see the old one had a crossover that was pretty tall and would have likely interfered with the hood (older photo but you can see it okay here just behind the first two intake runners:
When I found out Holley just started making a fuel rail and at a very reasonable price I jumped on it and started the install last night:
I will hopefully start making the fuel lines tonight and that will not be the easiest task but should be doable. Little by little it is coming together.
JB
Mmmmmmm. That oil pan is ****. Even if it's on a Ford.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
MrPink
Well-known member
That is a **** oil pan, for sure. Is there not an aftermarket intake manifold avail for the Godzilla? It looks like you will run into hood issues with the TB facing at the current angle.
Easy there Mike.Mmmmmmm. That oil pan is ****. Even if it's on a Ford.
I do love the look of it, that was a painful check to write though, but lots of CNC time and tig welded aluminum makes the price seem more reasonable.Cheers, thanks for looking out there.OK Mike, easy there!
There are a three out there being built that I'm aware of and at least two others in prototype. Of the ones being built only one would fit better and last I looked it was $2,000. There are intake elbows too that bolt between the throttle body and the intake that may work, but I want to get the fuel system done before I try to put the hood on and see if I have a snowballs chance in hell of the stock intake even working without modifying the hood.
JB
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
An old fridge door, some self drilling screws, and a hammer and your hood will fit just fine.
@mybigwarwagon If I were going to go that route I'd just cut a hole in the hood and leave it at that. I would love to be able to build a cool one in carbon fiber someday but that isn't likely to happen anytime soon.
JB
JB