These jacks worth saving/rebuilding?

[gsingh]

So I found 2 hydraulic jacks at work today. They were tucked away in a corner in the body shop area. Asked the manager what was wrong with them, and he says that they don't work. So I thought I'd ask you guys to see if I should rebuild these or not.

1 of them is a Lincoln W93642. This does go up, and holds, but it only pumps when the handle is almost close to the floor. Also there is this thing that looks like a bleeder screw, which goes into one of the holes, but the threads are messed up inside, so it doesn't screw in.

The Big one I have no clue about. This is by far the biggest jack I've seen. Not a clue what it is. I tries pumping it but nothing happens. So let me know what you guys thing about them and if I should rebuild them.

 

[basspro]

I have worked plenty of identical jacks, such as the large one, I recognize the handle but I cant remember brand name, good jacks! Lincoln makes great stuff as well and are rebuildable. I would say yes to rebuilding both! I will be willing to help if need be, the best that I can. Im sure Hiball will chime in, he's an expert in jack repair.

 

[Hiball]

Looks Wet.. Barring any interior issues from sitting in such a damp area I'd say rebuild them.

The big floor jack is a walker J134 or could be a early 93657 based off the frame style. Again, don't invest in any kits until you verify there condition.

 

[basspro]

Walker, that was it!

 

[ex-x-fire]

On the smaller jack, is that hole on the cross shaft for the lifting arm? That the hole for a grease fitting.

 

[gsingh]

ex-x-fire - i thing it is for a grease fitting.

Hiball - when i found them, they were dry and covered with dust, one of the mechanics hosed them down(didn't want to spread the dust through the shop).

i got another pic of the big jack from the side, lemee upload that one in a bit

 

[gsingh]

Here are 2 more pics of the side sticker. It looks like it says Lincoln on there, but I cant make out the Model number

 

[Hiball]

Here are 2 more pics of the side sticker. It looks like it says Lincoln on there, but I cant make out the Model number

Lincoln 93657

 

[gsingh]

Hiball, would you have rebuild kits for both of these?

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, would you have rebuild kits for both of these?

Certainly.. PM sent and based off your location you might be able to find the kits locally.

 

[Benw455]

Score!!!

 

[gsingh]

I got the piece highlighted in green out. But the 2 highlighted in red are tough as anything. I tried and tried last night, but no luck so far.

Well the green highlighted part didn't come in the picture, but its the little piece that hanging downward.

 

[wafrederick]

Lincoln jacks are not worth using,they leave a puddle of fluid on the floor leaking and I have seen this a lot.One was at an auction,there was about puddle of fluid size of a pancake on the floor.Lincoln also made Snap On's older jacks.

 

[Hiball]

I got the piece highlighted in green out. But the 2 highlighted in red are tough as anything. I tried and tried last night, but no luck so far.

Well the green highlighted part didn't come in the picture, but its the little piece that hanging downward.

You will need to secure the Hydraulic unit in a Vise/Press and use some Leverage to remove the Tank Nut. The Pump Piston Cylinder takes a 1" Wrench and after securing the Unit, its sometimes easier to disassemble the Guards so you can slip the Box end or Deep Socket over the Hex portion. Here is a Tutorial that Mimics your jack and shows the individual pieces of the Pump Piston, You must take care when un-caging the Pump Piston cover as there is a big spring underneath. Oh.. And underneath that Green part, When you unscrew the release/universal there is a Cone shaped Release valve in Valve hole, Keep this.

Lincoln jacks are not worth using,they leave a puddle of fluid on the floor leaking and I have seen this a lot.One was at an auction,there was about puddle of fluid size of a pancake on the floor.Lincoln also made Snap On's older jacks.

With all due respect that is one of the Dumbest comments ive ever read, Unfortunately for me its not the first time ive heard it from you. Yes.. Jacks with failed seals will Leak, and sometimes leaky jacks get put in Auctions... I guess the New Hein Werner 93642 jacks are Junk also?

Geez...

 

[wafrederick]

My father had a Snap On transmission jack made by Lincoln.Leaked everytime when going to use it adding fluid to it before use.Did this everytime since it was brand new and Snap on dealer did not do a thing about it.

 

[Strouty]

My father had a Snap On transmission jack made by Lincoln.Leaked everytime when going to use it adding fluid to it before use.Did this everytime since it was brand new and Snap on dealer did not do a thing about it.

Sounds like your dad should have gone to snap on directly, doesn't seem right to lump all jacks due to one bad apple. As for the auction, 9 times out of 10 the reason the stuff is there is because someone else doesn't want to fix it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

You will need to secure the Hydraulic unit in a Vise/Press and use some Leverage to remove the Tank Nut.

TRUE DAT !

I used the biggest Crescent wrench I had and then put a 5' cheater on that !!

Securing the unit down to a bench or what ever is an issue. With that kind of leverage you can easily break the bench top that the vice i mounted to or simply roll the whole bench over !!

 

[ex-x-fire]

If Lincoln made leaky jacks then they wouldn't have been in the business very long.

 

[Hiball]

My father had a Snap On transmission jack made by Lincoln.Leaked everytime when going to use it adding fluid to it before use.Did this everytime since it was brand new and Snap on dealer did not do a thing about it.

Oh brother...

 

[gsingh]

Hiball - THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!. Had to use a 4 feet cheater bar in order to loosen it up. Good news is I got everything apart. Bad is that i lost a piece, and some snap rings broke off.

 

[Hiball]

Hiball - THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!!!. Had to use a 4 feet cheater bar in order to loosen it up. Good news is I got everything apart. Bad is that i lost a piece, and some snap rings broke off.

What did you lose? And what snap ring?

 

[gsingh]

Lost the piece which is circled in yellow.

^^ and this is the piece you told me would be under that piece right?

 

[gsingh]

All the seals looked good, no tears or anything. There are some teeth marks on the shaft, dont think they are suppose to be there.

 

[gsingh]

I lost the snap rings that hold the wheels, but i got some it work so no worry there. But I don't know where the find the ring that holds down the spring. Hiball I was being very careful when I did this, bit as soon as I moved that ring *BOING* everything flew across the room.

 

[Farmall450]

I lost the snap rings that hold the wheels, but i got some it work so no worry there. But I don't know where the find the ring that holds down the spring. Hiball I was being very careful when I did this, bit as soon as I moved that ring *BOING* everything flew across the room.

Why I have a sincere hate of snap rings...

 

[gsingh]

I agree Farmall, Good thing It wasn't pointed towards me. I learned my lesson last night, when I got a face full of hydraulic fluid.

 

[Farmall450]

I agree Farmall, Good thing It wasn't pointed towards me. I learned my lesson last night, when I got a face full of hydraulic fluid.

I feel for you on that.

Had a rebuild cylinder blow once...you can imagine

 

[Hiball]

=gsingh;3560706

^^ and this is the piece you told me would be under that piece right?

Yes..

All the seals looked good, no tears or anything. There are some teeth marks on the shaft, dont think they are suppose to be there.

The marks on the Outside of the cylinder are from when it was installed in the factory.

Its hard to tell about the Main seal, it kinda looks like it might have a wrinkle in the side, But it might be just the lighting. What happens if you squeeze it? Is it pliable? Outside of the Main seal you have the Pump Seals and the Valve components. If you have come this far I would recommend changing everything.

 

[gsingh]

Yes, I will be replacing all of the seals, and the main seal is flexible, but like I said I will be replacing it. You mentioned that I can probably get the seals locally, where would I even start? For the piece I lost, can I get something similar and use it or I HAVE to get the same part?

 

[Hiball]

Yes, I will be replacing all of the seals, and the main seal is flexible, but like I said I will be replacing it. You mentioned that I can probably get the seals locally, where would I even start? For the piece I lost, can I get something similar and use it or I HAVE to get the same part?

I would look in the phone book under "hydraulic service" or such and let them know that you have a Lincoln W93642 and would like to aquire a seal kit or the individual seals. If you run into problems or the price seems out of line from what we already talked about lemme know.

The majority of that series used those pliable c-clips but a lot of series just used Snap rings and some of the snap on series used E-clip with washers under them.

 

[EDGAR]

The OP stated that the Lincoln 93642 started pumping when the handle was near the floor and that it held the weight. Just so the OP knows, although the handle can go vertical, the handle yoke does not makes contact with the pump piston assembly until the handle is at, or past, the 45 degree angle and a full stroke takes the handle parallel to the floor. It does not start pumping from the vertical position. So, maybe, the pump was working correctly?

Leaky leather seals in the pump piston could account for less pumping performance but these would leave an oil puddle under the jack after some pumping. Just so you know, these leather seals have an adjustment in the nut that holds them. If the seals are in good condition, you can tighten the nut maybe half a turn or even a turn, and the leak should stop.

When installing the new leather seals, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE LEATHER SEALS ALL THE WAY UNTIL THE NUT STOPS TURNING. Just tighten them enough until some resistance to movement is felt. To do this, the pump piston has to be inside the cylinder so you can feel the resistance. Soak the three leather seals in oil at least 24 hours before mounting. I am telling you this because there is a guy in Youtube who "fixed" a Snap On version of this jack and he did not soak the leather seals in oil and tightened them all the way down and that is not the way to do it! Under the nut there is a washer and under the washer there is a thick rubber washer with a rounded bottom (facing the seals) that serves as the adjuster as it spreads the seals when the nut is tightened.

When you put it back together, look at what angle the handle joke makes contact with the pump piston top part so you have an idea from what point it starts pumping.

Anyway, it is not a bad idea to refresh the seals. Not knowing the condition of the seals can later give you a nasty surprise.

 

[KF5LCH]

Did your boss give them to you? That's like hitting the jackpot.

The Walker looks to be complete. I'm willing to bet it can be brought back to it's original glory.

 

[sberry]

They are not all rusted up, looks worth fixing.

 

[Hiball]

Soak the three leather seals in oil at least 24 hours before mounting.

Eh... 24hr wont hurt anything but its really overkill IMO, The Factory vee's aren't very thick and don't have much Wax impregnated into them so it doesn't take nearly that long to absorb enough oil to prevent damage, especially since the seals are Pulled into the cylinder versus Pushed. Definitely wouldn't recommend Dry installation.. as it can damage the thin sealing lip. Another factory tip.. Always stake the Nut, This will prevent it from backing off and losing sealing and/or damaging components.

 

[gsingh]

Yeah I got em from my boss. I tried to get the seals but no luck, so guess ill work something out with hiball as soon as I get some money. BTW I started taking the 4 ton jack apart today. Another mechanic put atf into the jack, I hope that didnt hurt it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[Hiball]

Yeah I got em from my boss. I tried to get the seals but no luck, so guess ill work something out with hiball as soon as I get some money. BTW I started taking the 4 ton jack apart today. Another mechanic put atf into the jack, I hope that didnt hurt it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

ATF wont hurt anything, As far as the 4 ton you must Split the frame to gain access to the Hydraulic Unit. Completely remove all the bolts on 1 side of the frame, Plus the front Wheel, Doesn't matter which side. Unhook the Release universal where it connects to the Release on the Unit. You need to then Unhook the linkage from the Handle to the Pump Pistons, This is done by Removing the cotter Key and then sliding the 2" shaft out. Next you need to drive the Big Cross pin Out that holds the Handle to the Frame, It will make spitting the frame easier if you don't have to contend with all the weight on the end. Once you get to this point its frame separation time, You need to try and remove the frame evenly from front to back, otherwise it will bind. On Occasion ive had to use a small ram/Porta power to persuade things a bit as this frame style tends to want to hang up where the cross bar enters right above the casters. Once you get the frame somewhat separated, slip a pry bar down in between the return springs and disconnect them where they sit on the cross pin at the lower lift arm. One Word of Advice.. Don't worry about venturing into the Valves until the Jack is out of the unit and drained. If you run into any problems shoot me a PM.

Almost forgot and this happens quite a bit, Be leary of Grabbing a Hammer and beating on any Frame shafts, Remember you need these to go thru the frame and swelling the Head by smacking it with a hammer will only cause you more work.

 

[gsingh]

, so much information. But I wish I had asked before I started to take it apart, then I wouldn't have hammered on the shaft that holds the lifting piece. Now the threads are messed up . TBH I thought it would just like the 2 ton jack, welded in the front.

 

[gsingh]

Also Edgar, thank you very much for letting me know about hoe to install the seals. The jack was lifting, but only when the handle almost bottomed out. I don't mind tearing it apart, lord knows how long it has been sitting around.

Hiball - the big jack works fine with atf, it lifts and holds. As far as I know there is only one seal that is ripped, ill get the pictures when I got back to work. I had to take it apart to clean it up.

 

[Hiball]

, so much information. But I wish I had asked before I started to take it apart, then I wouldn't have hammered on the shaft that holds the lifting piece. Now the threads are messed up . TBH I thought it would just like the 2 ton jack, welded in the front.

Well.. If it's any consolation, your not the first one to make that mistake, get the thread file out and finish with a die if you have one.

 

[gsingh]

http://i1327.photobucket.com/albums/u680/gagansinghchahal/20131209_105602_zps77d13bc0.jpg

^^ This is what I was talking about. It goes through the lifting part, and i lubricated by the zerk fitting. Please let me know if you have a spare one, otherwise might have to get it re-threaded.