Toggle Switch Replacement

[bigfoot86]

I have sears craftsman bench grinder from 1973. Model # 397.19581. Recently I had the original toggle switch break on me. Looking for a replacement. This switch power the machine AND the light on it at the same time. What should I be looking for as far as connections for a new toggle switch.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Search paddle toggle switch. Double stack push on terminals are available to siamese connection points, so special terminal layout is not critical unless you want exactness.

 

[mm08822]

Search paddle toggle switch. Double stack push on terminals are available to siamese connection points, so special terminal layout is not critical unless you want exactness.

Also measure the cutout dimensions as ideally replacing the switch would be simple with a simple push into the existing hole and is retained.

 

[BillK]

Are there any numbers on the switch ? You might be surprised that it is still available somewhere.

 

[BillK]

I have sears craftsman bench grinder from 1973. Model # 397.15981.

Are you sure the model number isnt 397.19581 ?

This might help also: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...ck-grinder-clean-up-and-switch-repair.545692/

I think the switch part number is 4984992

 

[dscheidt]

Are there any numbers on the switch ? You might be surprised that it is still available somewhere.

I bet the sears part number crosses to something. @bigfoot86 search for the parts manual for your model number.

 

[Meursault74]

maybe you can get these two parts to work for you. Size for panel mounts matters, so you'll have to check that out.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/carling-technologies/MAAOA-BL-ON-OFF/16425003

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-amp-connectors/61765-2/290265

 

[bigfoot86]

Just corrected it. Yes it is 397.19581

 

[mikedodge]

Those toggle switches are very common, the one on my craftsman shop vac stopped working and I found a random one that fit the hole. For the extra connection get one that doubles the spade connector like what's already on the bottom one.

 

[FrankLee]

Many years ago, member @torqueman2002 did a deep dive into replacement switches for these grinders.

CM Block Grinder power switch - replacements

Jan. 21 2018 - Because of PhotoBucket'c change in 3-rd party hosting, this thread has been edited to post pictures directly. Therefore, the first post has been split and continued begning in post #22 , below. The Craftsman vintage grinders with Block-style-motors have a number of different...

www.garagejournal.com

Here's what I did to replace the oe switch. It's definitely not for everyone, but it works great for me.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...-block-grinders.157794/page-332#post-10090384

 

[bigfoot86]

This is what I have remaining from the disassembly. Don't remember seeing a spring when I took it apart but there's a possibility I may have lost it because it came apart quick.

 

[DGersic]

This is what I have remaining from the disassembly. Don't remember seeing a spring when I took it apart but there's a possibility I may have lost it because it came apart quick.

Contact looks pretty bad. You may be able to file it clean and shiny. Check the one in the housing, too.

There may not have been a spring, the contact end there that is bent up on an angle could be providing the spring function while the plastic post goes over centre to turn it on.

 

[bigfoot86]

Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Much appreciated. If there’s any more useful information, I’m all ears. One that DGersic mention maybe true that it didn’t have a spring but I’m not sure how it was mounted inside before I took it apart because it kinda just fell apart. One thing I noticed is that when the switch broke it felt like a piece of plastic broke maybe but not sure. Possibly in the little nub end the the paddle switch itself.

 

[bigfoot86]

Ok, after further investigation I found it do have the spring and its currently inside the paddle switch itself. One thing I took out of the middle is a little tan/,brown piece of rod that must have broke off. Anybody know what that piece is made of? Looks like if I replace that piece I could possibly save the switch.

 

[FrankLee]

Anybody know what that piece is made of?

Check the link that @BillK posted above.

 

[BurtEggley]

following all the links, some people have made this one work https://www.grainger.com/product/PO...h-SPST-2LNA9?searchQuery=2lna9&searchBar=true it reads discontinued but searching might turn up one or its descendant. This comes up also with that number https://www.amazon.com/Rocker-Switch-SPST-2-Connections/dp/B001QRHAWM?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[bigfoot86]

So with the help of everyone’s feedback, I found a fix to my solution. The original switch is back on and working great. After pulling the switch apart I cleaned up the contacts and the spring. Then took a piece of plastic welding rod, sanded it down appropriately and cut it to proper length. This piece would act as my ‘new’ plunger which worked perfect (the older plunger broke). Reassembled everything. Applied a little dialetric grease to the new homemade plunger and the contact area and it’s good as new! It’s AMAZING how smooth and easily the switch toggles now. Effortlessly. Will say it was a little tricky get the assembly of the switch reattached to the white housing that secures it but wasn’t too bad.

Without a doubt, the culprit of the problem was the gummy stuff that resided inside the switch housing and on the contact strip. I was just waiting for day it would break, it was so stiff. I’m very happy with the outcome. Thank you to everyone!

 

[The Cobbler]

another repair , in true GJ fashion!
you've earned your stripes!