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Toolbox work top

CopterDoc

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
11
Hey all, did some searching/goggling and didn't see much on this. Im looking to replace the rubber mat on my tool cabinet top with something more durable. I'm sure i could just cut a piece of plywood to size and use that, but i would prefer to have something that looks a little better than that. If anyone has any good tips/suggestions or knows of a website that makes custom ones I would appreciate it. I would ultimately like to have a stainless steel top but finding one the perfect size is the problem.
 
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trexdoink

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Joined
Dec 28, 2010
Messages
259
Location
Iowa
On 2 used boxes I've used that brown board like on the back of a bookcase (name slips my mind) with a coat of finish on the smooth side. It's cheap and works good. I think I'll use countertop laminate on the next one. Solid colors are cheap and durable. Then save up for the stainless!
 

balane

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Joined
May 4, 2011
Messages
2,996
Location
Pacific Northwest
I have used formica on plywood, butcherblock, stainless (Nothing custom just a piece cut to fit.) but my favorite so far is the 5/8" thick highly dense rubber mat I'm using right now. I've had it for about 8 months and it looks as good as the day I brought it home. It's roughly the same kind of thick rubber you would see in an ice skating rink that allows people to walk on it while wearing their skates.

The things I like about it are; durable, keeps its appearance over time, easy to clean and it's very quiet which is really a plus for me since I tend to work late while the missus sleeps. Also, when I'm working on parts that can break it's not a totally hard surface in case I drop something. It also stays in place very well and under its own weight, it is quite heavy. It wasn't even expensive.

Here's a photo of it. Good stuff.

.
 

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yost69

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Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
305
Location
WV
I have used formica on plywood, butcherblock, stainless (Nothing custom just a piece cut to fit.) but my favorite so far is the 5/8" thick highly dense rubber mat I'm using right now.



.

That is a neat idea.
 

03protege

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Joined
Sep 13, 2012
Messages
3,104
Location
Louisiana
I think if I was going to do this I would get a nice heavy piece of MDF then cover it with some 16 or 18 gauge steel.

Just epoxy it down then fold the corners down. Would be really durable and look high class.
 

nine4gmc

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Joined
Mar 24, 2012
Messages
14,357
Location
Dallas
look in your local classifieds for dinner or coffee tables with real solid wood tops. they are usually cheap, sometimes people will even give them away. I have gotten several vintage solid wood tables for free just because they are old styled or stained/broken legs etc. remove the legs, rip the top to fit and you have the ultimate work surface for a bargain.
 

wafrederick

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Joined
Jul 3, 2010
Messages
6,044
Location
Holton,Mi
The stainless steel tops are not cheap,I just had a Matco 4 series toolbox ordered on Friday.$565.00 just for the stainless steel top,I am going to wait until I pay off the toolbox.
 

transittech

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Joined
Feb 27, 2012
Messages
299
I was going to go with Ikea butcher block, but ended up with plexiglass instead. Works great.
 

shannonw

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Joined
Jun 18, 2010
Messages
660
Location
Florida
Just couple ideas

I have a snappy kra3800 i repainted i put an ikea top on (really was scraps from another project) a few people on here have done that

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=103990

Though not the most durable, but looks good, I do hammer on it quite a bit.

I picked up an old matco box, it was what seems to be some type of board that's rhino lined,
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133655

I really like that thing, resistent to spills and stuff and cleansup.

But yeah for durability or if you're going to really beat on em, i'd go solid core door scrap or some type of steal top.
 

bustdknuckle

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2012
Messages
152
Location
Colorado
I have used formica on plywood, butcherblock, stainless (Nothing custom just a piece cut to fit.) but my favorite so far is the 5/8" thick highly dense rubber mat I'm using right now. I've had it for about 8 months and it looks as good as the day I brought it home. It's roughly the same kind of thick rubber you would see in an ice skating rink that allows people to walk on it while wearing their skates.

The things I like about it are; durable, keeps its appearance over time, easy to clean and it's very quiet which is really a plus for me since I tend to work late while the missus sleeps. Also, when I'm working on parts that can break it's not a totally hard surface in case I drop something. It also stays in place very well and under its own weight, it is quite heavy. It wasn't even expensive.

Here's a photo of it. Good stuff.

.

Theres a guy that I used to work with that went to a farm supply store and bought a stall mat that was for a horse trailer and its held up for several years and the mat was big enough for the top of 2 boxes
 

BuickFarmer

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Joined
Apr 5, 2006
Messages
1,415
Location
Athens, Georgia
Visit your local thrift or salvation army store and see what they have in way of solid core or wood fire doors. We have a Potters House thrift store and I have found some old solid core doors with beautiful maple or other hardwood laminates. I've used them for everything from benches to work table tops and even the ones with a small window in the top half as oyster roast tables. I also lucked up about 30 years ago and salvaged some bowling alley pieces and made my main work bench top out of that.
 

Fireball027

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2009
Messages
709
Location
Niagara, ON
Ikea butcher block and treat with Minwax. It's fairly cheap and will take a beating. When it gets marked up just quickly sand and recoat.
 
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enrare

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 17, 2011
Messages
425
I second the horse stall mat. Installed it on top of my work bench and happy with it. You will need a heavy duty box cutter for this stuff. I got the large Kobalt one and it worked great, took several passes to cut all the way through the 1" thick stall mat.

Theres a guy that I used to work with that went to a farm supply store and bought a stall mat that was for a horse trailer and its held up for several years and the mat was big enough for the top of 2 boxes
 
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C

CopterDoc

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
11
I have used formica on plywood, butcherblock, stainless (Nothing custom just a piece cut to fit.) but my favorite so far is the 5/8" thick highly dense rubber mat I'm using right now. I've had it for about 8 months and it looks as good as the day I brought it home. It's roughly the same kind of thick rubber you would see in an ice skating rink that allows people to walk on it while wearing their skates.

The things I like about it are; durable, keeps its appearance over time, easy to clean and it's very quiet which is really a plus for me since I tend to work late while the missus sleeps. Also, when I'm working on parts that can break it's not a totally hard surface in case I drop something. It also stays in place very well and under its own weight, it is quite heavy. It wasn't even expensive.

Here's a photo of it. Good stuff.

.

Visit your local thrift or salvation army store and see what they have in way of solid core or wood fire doors. We have a Potters House thrift store and I have found some old solid core doors with beautiful maple or other hardwood laminates. I've used them for everything from benches to work table tops and even the ones with a small window in the top half as oyster roast tables. I also lucked up about 30 years ago and salvaged some bowling alley pieces and made my main work bench top out of that.

Awesome, Thanks for the ideas guys. I bet an old solid wood table/door would look awesome cut and refinished. I guess I begin the hunt for one, as well as maybe an old stainless table and see what I can come up with one of those.
 

bobcatdan

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Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
9,948
Location
Kaukauna,WI
I put a piece 3/16" plate steal on top of my rolla bench. I ordered it the correst size to fit so I only need do little grinding to fit the rounded corners of the box. I think I paid less the $50 brand new for the piece.
 
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CopterDoc

Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2012
Messages
11
I put a piece 3/16" plate steal on top of my rolla bench. I ordered it the correst size to fit so I only need do little grinding to fit the rounded corners of the box. I think I paid less the $50 brand new for the piece.

I like this idea too, I am gonna try and get a hold of a nice wood top though just because I like the way they look. If I cant get my hands on a nice solid wood top, since i work in aviation ill prob just go in to the sheet metal shop and cut a piece of steel sheet metal to fit the box as a temporary thing until I can get a nice wood top
 

turbowoodworker

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Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
3,519
Location
Apex NC
I'm using masonite over my woodworking benches (OSB is the underlayment) 'cause it is so durable and easy to replace/cheap.
Look at the Sears outlet website. I have picked up both stainless tops for the modular system and butcher block. They come in 6 or 8 ft and could easily be cut/modified in the shop. In my area I see 8ft stainless for $99 and the butcher block for $65. Good options at way less than the regular Sears price.
 

Steinmetz

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Joined
Oct 11, 2012
Messages
2,274
Location
Washington State
On 2 used boxes I've used that brown board like on the back of a bookcase (name slips my mind) with a coat of finish on the smooth side. It's cheap and works good. I think I'll use countertop laminate on the next one. Solid colors are cheap and durable. Then save up for the stainless!

Masonite.
 

CGarage

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
2,995
Location
United States/Switzerland
I have used formica on plywood, butcherblock, stainless (Nothing custom just a piece cut to fit.) but my favorite so far is the 5/8" thick highly dense rubber mat I'm using right now. I've had it for about 8 months and it looks as good as the day I brought it home. It's roughly the same kind of thick rubber you would see in an ice skating rink that allows people to walk on it while wearing their skates.

The things I like about it are; durable, keeps its appearance over time, easy to clean and it's very quiet which is really a plus for me since I tend to work late while the missus sleeps. Also, when I'm working on parts that can break it's not a totally hard surface in case I drop something. It also stays in place very well and under its own weight, it is quite heavy. It wasn't even expensive.

Here's a photo of it. Good stuff.

.



Any idea where you purchased the 5/8 rubber? And any idea what type of rubber it is?

Thanks in advance!
 

milwaukeephil

Well-known member
Joined
May 7, 2014
Messages
211
Location
New Berlin
3/4 MDF with a healthy slathering of good ol' shellac.
Just like shop class!

20180920-191239.jpg
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,374
Location
Reading
On 2 used boxes I've used that brown board like on the back of a bookcase (name slips my mind) with a coat of finish on the smooth side. It's cheap and works good. I think I'll use countertop laminate on the next one. Solid colors are cheap and durable. Then save up for the stainless!

tempered hardboard .

If you need stiffen top up then ply good choice and eather oil it or cover in rubber .

If don't need stiffen it uo hard beat thick rubber mat.
Stall mats can be good option .

Stainless over rated, works out good if do bit of welding/torch work but for lot of stuff the non marring and less slip of wood or rubber far better, it also cheaper and can be refinished .
All my auto shop tops are thick rubber besides welding bench .
 

ptgarcia

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Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Messages
1,202
Location
Alta Loma, CA
For a top that will be like a clean work surface I would use a rubber stall mat. At times it can be hard to find small, dark colored fasteners on it but I love the softer feel. Just not the best for spilled fluids, particularly oily types.
 
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