Tooling organization

[lilscorpion]

The tooling holders are great. I tried a similar idea a while back for a 1/4 drive set and 3/8 extensions and really like them. I can see what's missing at a glance.

I like those. That's what I'm thinking of doing at some point in the near future. I didn't think I'd like white but it looks cool in your box. I may change my mind on that. Thanks for the pics, great motivation.

 

[doug.j]

I don't like white either but I had the plastic on hand. I'm going to try the red cutting board stuff or the Starboard next.

 

[lilscorpion]

So back to the R8 collet holders. I had built maybe a dozen racks that looked like this when they were done.

In a previous thread I commented that I was going to build a cabinet for them so I could put them away. Today I finished the project. I decided to document the build so I could show some tips as I went. The old cabinet is a 3 shelf pull out unit similar to the one I store my drills in.

When I originally built this one I remember thinking "3 shelves will be incredibly useful. They're just far enough apart I should be able to store tons of stuff in there." In all actuality, not much I had fit. Either the stuff was too long, too wide, or dimensionally awkward enough that I'd take up a full shelf for something as simple as a heat gun. It quickly became a "whatever fit in there" cabinet which just perpetuates a mess. I started with the same dimensions so I knew kinda where I was going. Pulled the saw out and cut the first sheet of 1/2" baltic birch to 26 1/8".

I always pull a tape after the first cut of the day. This cut was intentionally cut 1/4" wider so I can flip the board and square the other edge. If my fence was off a fraction of an inch, I could reset the fence and re-cut. In this case I was spot on.

Now flip the sheet around and cut the opposite side at 26". Now I have parallel straight edges.

I need to cut 4 smaller strips. Instead of attempting to cut them from a bigger sheet, I add them up, add in a compensation for the cuts, and cut a piece so handling it is easier.

 

[lilscorpion]

Since the strips I need to cut are less than 2" wide, I use a push stick so my hand isn't anywhere near the blade.

And "why I use push sticks". I used to have a big Jet table saw. While I was building one of the shop cabinets about a year ago I was working on fitting a piece. It was the end of the day, I was tired, and I was trying to get finished so I could go inside and eat. I made cut and as I picked up the material off of the saw I heard a ping and felt this -

And that's the story behind why I have a Saw Stop. It becomes easy to spend money when have a moment like this to reflect - I type for a living. It would be more than 10% more difficult to type if I lost a finger. Saw Stop it is. Anyway, I rip the four boards and cut one of the tops to the cabinet. Over to the bench to setup for assembly. I use two 1/4" impacts each time I assemble. One gets the countersink and the other gets the driver. This allows me to quickly sink screws without fussing with changing tips over and over again.

I use a narrow crown stapler with 1" or 1 1/4" staples. It's important to understand the function of each fastener. The screws and glue make the assembly strong. The crown staples are used to speed the assembly process and keep it together so you get the screws in without the assembly shifting and to keep it together so the glue can dry. The staples really don't add much strength to the assembly.

I use the French Cleat backsplash as my assembly square. It's perfect for getting things square quickly.

To finish cut the top I stack the two sides and pull a tape to get a final measurement. Even though the plywood is supposed to be half inch, It usually is a hair undersized. If you use 1" for the thickness of two in a plan, you will always end up short by 1/16" I've learned. Better to measure and cut to exact size.

Now use a clamp to bring the top together square.

 

[lilscorpion]

Here's another trick I use all the time. I use scrap to make spacers to put things right where I want them. It's much easier than attempting to draw a bunch of lines and try to support a piece with one hand then clamp.

I pull a tape in the cavity to see exactly what size piece I need. This middle support is the support that I will be screwing cleats into (to which the tooling holders will attach to). Once cut, I just drop it in place.

I know what the spacers measured. They were 5 1/8".

I will need to know where to drill holes to secure this middle board to the outer boards during assembly. There are many ways to do this but here's a really fast way. I add 1/2 of the thickness to the spacer height and cut another spacer.

I use the spacer to quickly find center line of the board. I don't have to think to get it perfect and it's fast. I mark all sides using this method.

 

[lilscorpion]

Before I start final assembly, I to a test mock-up to ensure that the plan I had in my head is reasonable (this is an important step - sometimes what I have in my head doesn't work well with reality and adjustments need to be made before glue-up. Looks good.

I drill on the centerline and then screw both the top and the bottom to the middle support board (dry).

I then glue and staple the edges on. When I glue, I attach the board where it should be glued then I shift it 1/4" and then back into place. This helps spread out the glue over the surface.

Then I position it where I want it using my finger or thumb to ensure it's flush to the other board. Notice I'm using the backsplash again so the part doesn't move away from me while I'm applying pressure.

And the finished base. Repeat on the top.

 

[lilscorpion]

One at a time I remove the top and the bottom (remember I attached them to the middle board dry) and use the screw holes to mark a mid-line to use as a guide for applying the glue.

With top and bottom glued, I will now use the front board to square up the entire assembly.

Use my finger/thumb to flush the board on one end.

Staple it home.

Wipe off the excess glue. This makes things a little easier when I sand it prior to finishing.

I go to the opposite end, flush it, staple it, and then pre-drill and screw the board to the spine. repeat on the rear board.

 

[lilscorpion]

Now to cut the French Cleats. I usually pre-cut them to 3" wide an then cut the 45 into them leaving 1/16 of flat. This prevents from having a sharp edge at the point that will just splinter at some point down the road. I do use a push board though you can't see it in the pic.

Cut to size, I locate the lower one against the bottom (the measurement just worked so I went with it) and test fitted one of the holders.

Then calculated where the upper cleat needed to be and glued stapled it in place. Here's how it turned out with 4 of the holders.

 

[lilscorpion]

Ready to attach the drawer slides. Mark the line on both of the lower rails. If you don't have one of these Incra rulers, you gotta get one. It makes it so easy. Then I attach them using this line as the center point reference.

I'm replacing the other pull out which had different upper slides so I'll have to move the ones that are there. When I measure where the other side of the slide will need to be in the shelf, I find it's 1/2" from the top. I use a piece of wood to located it and then drill it.

Perfectly located on both sides.

I test fit the cabinet (only the lowers are attached).

Now I insert the uppers into the slides and push the cabinet in a couple inches from closed. The empty cabinet is now fully supported by the lower slides. Because it's nearly closed, there is a very minimal amount of deflection on the cabinet. In this position I will drill and screw in the front of the upper slides.

The pull out the cabinet so I can do the same in the rear.

 

[mossyboy6]

Very nice.

Where do you got your slides?

 

[lilscorpion]

Now I need to attach the front from the old pull-out. I clamp on a piece of scrap to the bottom of the pull-out next to it. I know that one is already level so there's no need to go through it again. I use the original holes for the handle to temporarily attach it in place with a pair of screws.

With it located, I can open it up and run some screws from the inside out to attach the front to the pull-out.

Thru-drill and re-attach the drawer pull.

And fill it up with tools and I'm done.

 

[lilscorpion]

Very nice.

Where do you got your slides?

I think these are Ferarri drawer slides. I got them wholesale at a local wood supply. I purchased in bulk when I built the chests so I got a (small) break on the price. Maybe somewhere between $8 and $10 per slide depending on the length. That was about a year and a half ago though.

 

[Adrien]

So you use staples for assembly? I've been trying to do research to find out if I should get a brad nailer or a narrow crown stapler. I've found threads on other forums that support the use of either. When I did woodworking in HS we pretty much glued, screwed and/or clamped everything so I didn't get much experience using a brad nailer or stapler.

Adrien

 

[lilscorpion]

So you use staples for assembly? I've been trying to do research to find out if I should get a brad nailer or a narrow crown stapler. I've found threads on other forums that support the use of either. When I did woodworking in HS we pretty much glued, screwed and/or clamped everything so I didn't get much experience using a brad nailer or stapler.

Adrien

Yeah, narrow crown. I rarely use brads. I do when I'm attaching something I'll clamp or something I don't want to use a lot of filler on like trim pieces. The narrow crown staples do have better holding force than brads and that's the main reason I use them during assembly. Like with this project, I don't really clamp all that much unless I have to.

 

[Krokodil]

Wow, that is really good work there!

 

[Mr.N]

I'm copying this one! Thanks for the ideas

 

[jhn9840]

lilscorpion you are a true craftsman. You have made your garage into one of the best two or three shops on here.

jhn9840
John

 

[moto367]

Thanks for the compliment. I wouldn't even pretend I was going to sell them for profit. I'd lose my ****. The only return on investment I'll ever see is enjoying being in the shop and using it. If I was dumb enough to sit down and figure out what my shop "costs" based on some hourly rate, I'd find out I'm not good at it.

I get this quite often also...people say you need to sell this or that. Even more is "you can buy it cheaper". Yes, you can buy things cheaper. But for many the ability and gratification of being able to make or build something far out ways any price. Great thread and skills!

 

[lilscorpion]

I get this quite often also...people say you need to sell this or that. Even more is "you can buy it cheaper". Yes, you can buy things cheaper. But for many the ability and gratification of being able to make or build something far out ways any price. Great thread and skills!

Not having to worry about margin is the key. Build it exactly like I want it and built to last.

 

[bad_idea]

As far as sourcing cheap drawer slides... I have found old office furniture a good source. Our office threw out a bunch of damaged/worn out desks a couple years ago. That netted me about 20 drawer slides or so. I have also found cheap office furniture in thrift stores, buy it for $5, pull out 6 drawer slides or so, shitcan the rest of the desk.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Paper towel holder is in the works. It hasn't been a priority but is something I really need.

Since you have french cleats and use them religously (great idea) you could make something quite simple for a paper towel holder with a cleat on the back to move in the work area you're at.

This is what I made for a paper towel holder. I have one on each side of the garage.

BTW, I considered making a towel dispenser similar to whatyou have many years ago, just never got around to it and use a shelf in the back room.

 

[lilscorpion]

Got a little time in the shop today. Started tackling the last of my slide out cabinets. I've never liked storing solutions for my circular saw and I've tried a few. I think the overall shape, size, and design of them makes storing them difficult. I've hung them on hooks, stored them on shelves with the height adjustment, and thrown it under the bench. Seems like it spent more time on the floor than anywhere else. Here's what I came up with. I'm going with holster style mounts. I like being ale to get the loos out easily and quickly.

The circular saw mount uses lips and a simple clamp to retain the saw. The saw leans back at a 15 degree angle.

Drop the saw blade/guard into the groove

And a slight twist of the wrist and the side of the base hooks the clamp.

Twist the clamp and the saw is retained.

 

[lilscorpion]

I removed the clear from my jig saw holster and attached it to the cabinet. Though I liked having it attached to the wall, I couldn't put it away unless the cabinet also has a clear or I'd have to make a second holster in the cabinet. Truth is, I don't use it enough to warrant a wall mount so a more permanent solution seemed better.

I still need to figure out how to mount the circular in there.

 

[BowtiePimp]

Not only am I jealous of the storage and the wood work but all those dewalt tools! looks great

 

[383 240z]

I've been stealing ideas from here and the "what is on your walls" thread. I've seen enough to give the inspiration to re-do my entire shop, both my roll aways, and the machine room. I've got a request for you all. I have a TON of 1/4" bits around 100 that I would like to store in 1 place. What are you guys using? I've been considering boring a series of holes in a .750" plate of AL or HDPE. You guys have any better options? Keith

 

[lilscorpion]

I've been stealing ideas from here and the "what is on your walls" thread. I've seen enough to give the inspiration to re-do my entire shop, both my roll aways, and the machine room. I've got a request for you all. I have a TON of 1/4" bits around 100 that I would like to store in 1 place. What are you guys using? I've been considering boring a series of holes in a .750" plate of AL or HDPE. You guys have any better options? Keith

I really think the HDPE option is the cheapest and easiest. I purchased the Mechanics Timesaver version (x 2) and wish I'd built my own and they were made out of some type of plastic but weren't anything special. Each one of the red ones in the picture below hold maybe 40 each so you could easily make one that's not too big but will hold more than 100.

You know, come to think of it, I have seen them made out of wood too. They could probably be made out of just about anything.

 

[383 240z]

That was pretty much what I came up with. I have a few of those magnetic red ones you show, but mine are green I guess I'll make one that fits in an empty part of one of my small drawers in one of the rollaways. Thanks Keith

 

[Hroger]

Wow, love this thread. I have 2 sheets of the green on the way from woodcraft(they have a Christmas $10 off right now that saved the shipping) I'll spend the next couple of weeks organizing my taps and endmill drawer. Any chance of getting a picture of the framing that those pull out cabinets go into? I'm thinking about a couple of those for my Christmas break project. Thanks.

 

[Kevin54]

That's going top be sore for a little while. I did the same things a few years back. Got tire, wasn't paying total attention and nicked the end of my finger. No stitches because there was nothing there to stitch. But the scar grows into the quick underneath and if you don't watch it, or have a habit of biting your nails, you'll get into it and it hurts rather badly for a couple of days.

As far as the red and green plastic. What does a sheet of it cost and how thick is it. Kudos to you for the ideas of the storage situation

 

[Jere]

I love all of this cool stuff you do with plywood, I never thought about it as being so versatile. What kind are you using in all of these projects? Are you using bolts to secure them or screws?

 

[Oldbear]

How in the world do you find all the time to do this? It looks good! Maybe I am lazy, but after working 10-12 hours I can't bring myself to spend another 2-4 hours in the garage. Weekends get ate up with spending time w/ the wife (no kids) and maintaining the house. Sorry to whine. Those holders are nice looking. I will save those pics for future inspiration/use.

My wonderful wife sends me to the garage... makes me less cranky.

 

[lilscorpion]

Wow, love this thread. I have 2 sheets of the green on the way from woodcraft(they have a Christmas $10 off right now that saved the shipping) I'll spend the next couple of weeks organizing my taps and endmill drawer. Any chance of getting a picture of the framing that those pull out cabinets go into? I'm thinking about a couple of those for my Christmas break project. Thanks.

Of all of the cabinets I built, I didn't take any pics of the construction. I'm disappointed really, I wish I had. I was thinking of building a few in December. If I do, I will. They're stupid simple and not far different from the cabinet construction I posted earlier except I use 3/4" melamine and build a face frame out of the plywood.

 

[lilscorpion]

That's going top be sore for a little while. I did the same things a few years back. Got tire, wasn't paying total attention and nicked the end of my finger. No stitches because there was nothing there to stitch. But the scar grows into the quick underneath and if you don't watch it, or have a habit of biting your nails, you'll get into it and it hurts rather badly for a couple of days.

As far as the red and green plastic. What does a sheet of it cost and how thick is it. Kudos to you for the ideas of the storage situation

The "event" happened last year actually. The few stitches they put in it really turned out well. I can barely tell. If I push on it I can they'll the bone isn't right below it and the sensitivity is a little different in it but I can deal with that. Being able to use my dominant middle finger after such an event really makes me think about shop safety now. The plastic is cutting board material (food grade HDPE) that I got at WoodCraft (http://www.woodcraft.com/category/2083469/cutting-board-blanks.aspx). It's 1/2" thick. Some of the thicker stuff I've used is King Starboard HDPE (not food grade). It is available in a few colors ans thicknesses from 1/8" to 1-1/2" from a few vendors on eBay. I'm sure it can be purchase through boat supply as well as I believe the boating industry is where it's used from where I read.

 

[lilscorpion]

I love all of this cool stuff you do with plywood, I never thought about it as being so versatile. What kind are you using in all of these projects? Are you using bolts to secure them or screws?

Almost all of it has been either 1/2" or 3/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. It's a higher quality ply than what the local big boxes typically have and commonly used in cabinet making. When I use joint fasteners (like the corner of drawers), I use 1-5/8" or 1-1/4" (depending on the material thickness) coarse screws and pre-countersink the holes in both plywood and melamine with a tapered countersink. The taper helps prevent blowout on the backside if you've not used one before. Critical if you're drilling a laminated piece but helps a lot on ply as well.

 

[muibubbles]

talk about freaking modular. I love this. thank you for sharing.

I'm looking for a lista for exactly what you did with your drill bits... I have about 5-7 mini parts drawers for drill bits/taps/bolts/screws and its a PITA walking from end to end looking for one.. a lista will save my life. once i can bite the bullet of the cost..........!

 

[lilscorpion]

talk about freaking modular. I love this. thank you for sharing.

I'm looking for a lista for exactly what you did with your drill bits... I have about 5-7 mini parts drawers for drill bits/taps/bolts/screws and its a PITA walking from end to end looking for one.. a lista will save my life. once i can bite the bullet of the cost..........!

I was very, very fortunate on my listas. A friend offered them to me years ago and I didn't know anything about them at the time but they seemed like they'd be great tooling cabinets. Little did I know what I was given. In hind sight I would have taken the other two as well and figured out where to put them.

 

[1Garageman]

Thanks for sharing lilscorpion, I think I am going to have to be a copy cat!

 

[lilscorpion]

Thanks for sharing lilscorpion, I think I am going to have to be a copy cat!

Please do and share up your alterations if you come up with some. It was others' ideas that helped me off in the first place and GJ is a fantastic place to document and share ideas.

 

[elav]

Regarding the Saw Stop - I know someone that has one of those at work. My friend came in to find the Saw Stop "tripped". Someone there had there finger hit the blade. It just nicked him and that tripped the blade to be driven down below and stopped. He was find with just a slight nick and a touch of blood. They were very glad they invested in that table saw. I was told that after it trips you need to send that part of the mechanism back to the company for replacement - but no one was complaining!

 

[diggler306]

Wow, amazing stuff. I see the correlation between software engineer and shop organization. I'm an IT Analyst/Java developer by trade, and I have a problem with over planning and needing everything to be as organized, scalable, robust and precise as possible. It often prohibits me from getting anything done.

Nice to see the skills, precision and creativity put to work! Great job.