Tooling organization

[lilscorpion]

Re: Tool Organization

Final touches were to add the false doors which I had ordered from the same manufacturer that I got the cabinets from. I installed the doors and handles so the uppers would appear to look like the rest of the cabinets.





Added the drawer front to the primary drawer on the bottom.





Double oven cabinet done.



Next is the last tweak to the kitchen and it's done - under cabinet LED's.

 

[lilscorpion]

Made a little progress on the Master bath as well. I'm down to finishing the drawer fronts and doors on the vanity and built-in and it's done. At the moment I'm focusing on the built-in. Took me about a week to get the stain and clear looking good. Cold weather has me inside with a brush which is MUCH slower than outside with a gun.



There's something absolutely fulfilling with hanging the doors. Two screws for the hinges into the frame, two handles, and let 'em glide shut.



Master built-in done.

 

[Dennis Leigh Henry]

Lilscorpian.. Another well done job or three.. !!

 

[Lyndon]

Lilscorpion

Just brilliant. Been quietly watching for a while (OK, so I've read the whole shebang) - love the whole lot.

Well Done.

Lyndon
A quiet Sunday night Down Under.

 

[lilscorpion]

Moving to the under cabinet lighting in the kitchen. For years we've used some Xenon light pucks that mount fairly easily under the cabinets that I purchased many years ago. We even moved them between houses.



I mounted about 7 of them to get consistent lighting across the counter top and they worked good enough for quite sometime however they seem to burn out quite frequently and the bulbs aren't cheap. Since I feel like I'm always headed to the store to buy replacement bulbs, I kinda got lazy and stopped replacing them. The day I removed them there was only one working bulb.

In the middle of my other remodeling madness I've started building some cabinets for the master closet. In that project I plan to use LED lighting for all of the shelves which will be much more involved so it seemed like a good idea to learn on a smaller scale project.



So that others can benefit from my research, I've compiled a list of the materials I used.



Parts ordered from Amazon (left to right above):

1. 15amp cord pigtail (ASIN B00LDXXJ38)
   
2. 18 AWG 2-Conductor Speaker Cable (ASIN B003L138RW)
   
3. Wago 5 conductor connectors (ASIN B003K12QN0)
   
4. Wago 3 conductor connectors (ASIN B003K124UA)
   
5. Wago 2 conductor connectors (ASIN B00HIOP6SC)
   
6. Insultab 1/4-inch Heat Shrink Tubing (ASIN B003ICY2EW)
   
7. 3/8-inch #6 Screws (ASIN B003R2TRUW)
   

The cord pigtail is only going to be used during the install for mock-up and temp wiring. It allowed me to plug in the power supply and test the location of the lights (move 'em around until I get them right).

Wago connectors are optional but super nice in this type of install because they're easy to use and temporary allowing you to connect and disconnect the lights easily if need be.

Heat shrink tubing is used to secure the wires where they're soldered to the LED light tape which strengthens the connection.



Partrs ordered from SuperBrightLeds.com (left to right above):

1. Surface mount anodized aluminum housing - Klus B1888
   
2. LED Light Strip - 228 lm/ft - NFLS-WW600-WHT-LC2
   
3. 50 Watt Magnitude Dimmable LED Power Supply - M100L12DC-AR
   
4. LED Profile End Cap (no wire hole) - KLUS 1059
   
5. LED Profile End Cap (w/ wire hole) - KLUS 00024
   
6. LED Profile Mounting Clip - KLUS 1072
   

First I wired the temporary pigtail into the power supply. With the wago it takes only a few seconds.



Next, unspool some of the LED light tape. You can cut to any even-inch size by cutting near the scissors symbol marked clearly on the tape.



Slide about 5/8-inch of heat shrink tubing onto the wire sheilding and then solder the wire end to the two dots on the LED light tape. A (+) and (-) are marked by each of the dots so there's really no guessing.

 

[lilscorpion]

Slide the heat shrink tubing in place and apply a little heat. With the wire connected, I removed the adhesive cover, slid the end cap in place, and stuck it to the aluminum extrusion I pre-cut to length.



Now the plastic diffuser gets cut to length. I do this by sliding the tail cap in place and then marking the length needed between housing end caps. The diffuser is easily cut with a pair of wire cutters.



Here's a completed assembly.



Each light gets attached to the power supply for testing prior to attaching it to the cabinet.



By making my own I was able to tweak the light exactly the way it needed to be to get good coverage across the counter. I initially thought i'd have only a light across the base of each cabinet but I found that having one run perpendicular to the wall on either side of the stove made a huge difference. Couldn't have done this with pre-fabbed lights.



I was able to re-use the wires I had cut into the walls when I installed the cabinets which was nice so the rest was just fiddlin' around with getting the wires tacked up nicely against the bottom of the cabinets.



All wrapped up. This concludes the kitchen remodel...2 years, 2 months, and 4 days.

 

[sakurama]

Nicely done.

Thanks for the listing of the parts.

Gregor

 

[Huxley]

Looks like you might need one more item.

https://www.snappower.com/

Note: night lights are also available. Several other comparable brands exist too.

 

[gearhead1]

Very well done! I've always wanted to do woodworking. If I lived closer, I'd beg to come over and watch so I could learn. Beautiful work!

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Very well done. I didn't realize you could "customer build" under cabinet LED's like that with the aluminum extrusion and the diffuser. Looks like SuperBright LEDs has everything!

Questions:

1. How do you turn them on? Switch? Photocell? Motion sensor and delay timer? Combination of those?

2. What voltage are the lights? I presume you're starting out at 120volt and stepping it down.

3. Where does the power supply for the LEDs get its power? From the outlet on the wall and the power supply tucked up between the cabinets? or do you have a hidden outlet somewhere?

4. What did you do with the bundle of wires? Tuck them up between the cabinets?

 

[lilscorpion]

Very well done. I didn't realize you could "customer build" under cabinet LED's like that with the aluminum extrusion and the diffuser. Looks like SuperBright LEDs has everything!

Thanks!

After ordering built-to-order assemblies exactly like what I made (but for nearly twice the price), and reading one of Gregor's posts about adding lights to one of his cabinets, I started looking around to see just how much it would cost to build my own. There's actually quite a variety of internet companies that sell parts and components. They even have multiple types of aluminum extrusions that allow recessed mounting, 90-degree mounting, etc.

Questions:

1. How do you turn them on? Switch? Photocell? Motion sensor and delay timer? Combination of those?

Any 120volt LED rated switch can be used. I used a LED rated Leviton wall dimmer switch and wired it directly into the power supply. They're available at all big box stores.

2. What voltage are the lights? I presume you're starting out at 120volt and stepping it down.

All of the LEDs are 12volts DC. The power supply handles the converstion between 120volts AC to 12volts DC. You can read about the power supplies I used here:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/power-supplies/magnitude-dimmable-led-power-supply/1692/

3. Where does the power supply for the LEDs get its power? From the outlet on the wall and the power supply tucked up between the cabinets? or do you have a hidden outlet somewhere?

According to the manual they need airflow which, IMO, is a pain in the **** since I wanted to hard-wire mine into the wall. In this installation I will be installing it in an access panel-like-thing I've yet to be built/installed in the garage. Until then it's temp surface mounted on the wall.

4. What did you do with the bundle of wires? Tuck them up between the cabinets?

The short answer is yes, up between the cabinets. The long answer is I couldn't decide if I should shortened the wires to be perfect or if I should leave the wires full length so the light strips could be moved or light housings replaced if needed at some point. Since I can't make the wires longer I decided to leave them alone.

 

[lilscorpion]

Looks like you might need one more item.

https://www.snappower.com/

Note: night lights are also available. Several other comparable brands exist too.

It's interesting that you should recommend them...I installed similar outlets in the office next to each of the computers and they're awesome. I'd like to upgrade two of the switches in the kitchen to be dual mode like the one you've shown but HomeDepot didn't have any in black so I decided to wait until I had the patience to order them.

 

[T_Roze]

Re: Tool Organization

Or you can pop something like this in, fits a regular face plate.



I am interested in putting a few of these through out our house, though I have not read reviews or researched them much at all. It amazes me how they can pack the USB charging capability into the standard outlet form. I hope it is of decent quality.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Re: Tool Organization

Or you can pop something like this in, fits a regular face plate.

I am interested in putting a few of these through out our house, though I have not read reviews or researched them much at all. It amazes me how they can pack the USB charging capability into the standard outlet form. I hope it is of decent quality. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We had two of these installed in our motorhome next to where each of us sits at the table. They were Leviton and work great. I see no reason why a Cooper (like in your picture) or Seymour & Pass wouldn't work just as well.

My motorhome guy used a blue plastic "old work" electrical box for the install:

While on vacation I tried replacing an existing 120volt receptacle with a similar receptacle (two 120volt outlets and two powered USB ports). The converter used a steel box when building out the interior. I couldn't get the fancy receptacle into the steel box with all the wires attached. I'm going to go at it again now that we're home. These 120volt/USB receptacles are really large. So keep that in mind when trying to retrofit.

The two installed by our motorhome guy work really well. I've plugged two USB cords to recharge devices and had a 120volt device also plugged into the same receptacle and didn't notice any problems.

 

[lilscorpion]

Re: Tool Organization

We had two of these installed in our motorhome next to where each of us sits at the table. They were Leviton and work great. I see no reason why a Cooper (like in your picture) or Seymour & Pass wouldn't work just as well.



My motorhome guy used a blue plastic "old work" electrical box for the install:



While on vacation I tried replacing an existing 120volt receptacle with a similar receptacle (two 120volt outlets and two powered USB ports). The converter used a steel box when building out the interior. I couldn't get the fancy receptacle into the steel box with all the wires attached. I'm going to go at it again now that we're home. These 120volt/USB receptacles are really large. So keep that in mind when trying to retrofit.



The two installed by our motorhome guy work really well. I've plugged two USB cords to recharge devices and had a 120volt device also plugged into the same receptacle and didn't notice any problems.

I used the same ones you did in the office and also noticed that the housing in them is much larger than a traditional switch. Fortunately the two gang boxes were the blue deep remodel units which have plenty of room inside.

Probably the only thing insist like about them is some of the bulkier plugs can't be plugged in at the same time a USB device is charging but I only have a few that are like that.

 

[Regnar]

I will suggest that while you are at it you install them in the toe kick areas and above the upper cabinets. In our old house we almost never turned on the canned lights. The leds made enough light to comfortably work in the kitchen. For some reason canned lights hurt/annoy my eyes.

I like the switch ideal and will incorporate it in the new house. The old one I used the extra plug that powered the Microwave. Placed the power supply on top of the upper cabinets and used a RF Remote.

 

[lilscorpion]

I will suggest that while you are at it you install them in the toe kick areas and above the upper cabinets. In our old house we almost never turned on the canned lights. The leds made enough light to comfortably work in the kitchen. For some reason canned lights hurt/annoy my eyes.

I like that idea, wife isn't so sure. I may have just enough tape left over to try it out. It really was bright enough to go without the ceiling lights for cooking-like tasks or are you referring to evening/morning activities?

 

[Regnar]

Easily could cook. In the morning and evenings we would set it for 50 percent and when watching movies in the living room we would dim it all the way down. Looking at your kitchen the island maybe would be a little dim depending on how bright your LEDs are but just try angling them more forward than up.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Probably the only thing insist like about them is some of the bulkier plugs can't be plugged in at the same time a USB device is charging but I only have a few that are like that.

Correct. With some of the unique plugs into the 120volt outlets, you definitely have to plan or move to a 120volt outlet that allow for more room. The alternative is three or four on them in larger boxes. I'm expecting to see the manufacturers come out with a two wide soon ... four 120volt and four powered USB. Makes better use of the USB transformer.

I will suggest that while you are at it you install them in the toe kick areas and above the upper cabinets. In our old house we almost never turned on the canned lights. The leds made enough light to comfortably work in the kitchen. For some reason canned lights hurt/annoy my eyes.

I suggest that too. Go for light green or blue LEDs under the toe kick. Will make the cabinets look like they are floating off the floor!

 

[Cypherian]

Re: Tool Organization

We had two of these installed in our motorhome next to where each of us sits at the table. They were Leviton and work great. I see no reason why a Cooper (like in your picture) or Seymour & Pass wouldn't work just as well.

My motorhome guy used a blue plastic "old work" electrical box for the install:

While on vacation I tried replacing an existing 120volt receptacle with a similar receptacle (two 120volt outlets and two powered USB ports). The converter used a steel box when building out the interior. I couldn't get the fancy receptacle into the steel box with all the wires attached. I'm going to go at it again now that we're home. These 120volt/USB receptacles are really large. So keep that in mind when trying to retrofit.
The two installed by our motorhome guy work really well. I've plugged two USB cords to recharge devices and had a 120volt device also plugged into the same receptacle and didn't notice any problems.

See the Bold, I used Seymour & Johnson in my RV had to replace the box as they were to shallow. I did also put 3 in the house in single outlet boxes they fit fine. I wanted one in a double outlet box but it would not fit with all the wires .

Cypher

 

[Jo Diesel]

Subscribed; speechless

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Re: Tool Organization

See the Bold, I used Seymour & Johnson in my RV had to replace the box as they were to shallow. I did also put 3 in the house in single outlet boxes they fit fine. I wanted one in a double outlet box but it would not fit with all the wires . Cypher

Did you have easy access to the box? Was it easy to get out? Any tips you can give me?

 

[lilscorpion]

Re: Tool Organization

Took a little break from the house projects in favor of some large time. Made some dogs for my Festool MFT out of some 7/8-inch 6061 I bought a while ago specifically for this purpose. Dogs are used to square setups in the MFT table like the track for the track saw.

Dogs allow you to utilize the holes in the MFT work surface to accomplish various setups. Lee Valley makes a version of the Dogs and here's an example of how they're used for not an angle and straight cut.



In my dog design I decided to machine 1-inch of material to 20mm.



Flipped end for end and repeated the task.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160201/338031378e9a4d1a5ee4057054ed82e9.jpg[/IMG

Cot them off in the miter saw leaving about 1-inch of unmachined material for the head of the dog. 8 seemed like plenty.

[ATTACH=full]1241785[/ATTACH]

After breaking all the edges and cleaning them up

[ATTACH=full]1241786[/ATTACH]

Did a little checking to ensure they're sauté and straight. The head (unmachined extrusion) had 3-thou runout and the shank had 1/2-thou. Good enough for wood working IMO.

[ATTACH=full]1241787[/ATTACH]

Played around with them a little on the MFT. Moved them all over to see if I could find a hole in the MFT that wasn't correctly placed.

[ATTACH=full]1241788[/ATTACH]

I found only 1 that failed the 3-point test (pencil pointing at it).

[ATTACH=full]1241789[/ATTACH]

It's just barely out of alignment but...it is. I'll mark the inside of it so I remember to never count on it.

I've not needed to use the lathe much in the past coupe of years. Little projects like this remind me how how fun turning is.

[ATTACH=full]1241790[/ATTACH]

 

[rice rocket]

Just get the HKC for miter cuts.

 

[lilscorpion]

Just get the HKC for miter cuts.

I am so glad you didn't double-dog dare me...

 

[Fastowl]

I want to thank you for the lead on the WAGO connectors. I have been doing a build out of my new barn/shop/etc. and was in the process of putting in LED strip lighting as well. I have assembled the strip lighting like you and was stuck this weekend on how to efficiently run power to segregated strips in a cost efficient manner without a lot of soldering and or using wire nuts or expensive power blocks/bus bars, etc. I had been looking at various power distribution blocks but the connectors you selected rock regarding price, performance etc. I should have a supply of various WAGO connectors by this weekend to finish up this particular project. Thanks for the information!!!!

 

[lilscorpion]

I want to thank you for the lead on the WAGO connectors. I have been doing a build out of my new barn/shop/etc. and was in the process of putting in LED strip lighting as well. I have assembled the strip lighting like you and was stuck this weekend on how to efficiently run power to segregated strips in a cost efficient manner without a lot of soldering and or using wire nuts or expensive power blocks/bus bars, etc. I had been looking at various power distribution blocks but the connectors you selected rock regarding price, performance etc. I should have a supply of various WAGO connectors by this weekend to finish up this particular project. Thanks for the information!!!!

Glad it helped. I can't remember where I ran across them but, like you, it hit me the first time I saw them and realized the value enough to order a box of each kind. What I don't understand is why they're not on the shelf at the local hardware stores.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Glad it helped. I can't remember where I ran across them but, like you, it hit me the first time I saw them and realized the value enough to order a box of each kind. What I don't understand is why they're not on the shelf at the local hardware stores.

When I first saw them, I was like you guys ... WOW!

I think I've seen them (WAGO connectors) at Home Depot.

They have been discussed on the GJF in other threads. The professional electricians don't like them because it appears we're dependent on a spring to make a good connection. But as I recall, their concerns primarily focused on 120volt wiring for the same reasons most professional electricians don't use, like, or recommend back stabbed outlets.

Low voltage in dry applications, I think they are slick. Especially for dry fitting over and over again.

 

[Tyberius]

On the subject of WAGO connectors: I have a bunch installed in a rent house. They come standard on the HALO cans. When I installed the cans I thought there would be a problem with the connectors, but 7-8 years later, there have been no reports of problems with the connections.

 

[nadogail]

WAGO connectors remind me of my early knowledge of paint rollers; when I was a boy of 10, in 1949, a friend of my fathers was painting our dining room with a paint roller. He said that a union painter, which he was, would not be caught with a paint roller in his hand. Now they are the accepted and often preferred tool for painting.

Pretty soon, IMHO, WAGO connectors will be commonly accepted. I have seen wire netted connections that were not properly made up, but I don't think it will happen with a WAGO..

 

[lilscorpion]

I think I've seen them (WAGO connectors) at Home Depot.



They have been discussed on the GJF in other threads. The professional electricians don't like them because it appears we're dependent on a spring to make a good connection. But as I recall, their concerns primarily focused on 120volt wiring for the same reasons most professional electricians don't use, like, or recommend back stabbed outlets.

I didn't know the spring/electrician fact. Makes sense. Are they disliking the concept of a spring over time or the failure rate on first use?

The 10 over used are so damn strong it's a mild finger fight to open them.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I didn't know the spring/electrician fact. Makes sense. Are they disliking the concept of a spring over time or the failure rate on first use?

The 10 over used are so damn strong it's a mild finger fight to open them.

I started a thread on the GJF about WAGOs:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286400&highlight=WAGO

For low voltage (like the LED wiring) 12/24volts or temporary, test fit/trouble shooting 120 volts, I would use them.

I think their design of the lever apparently going over center is better and more reliable than the mechanism in backstabbed outlets. I presume you don't backstab. I agree with that the amount of pressure needed to "open" them is material, much more than I was expecting when I played with my first one.

I didn't like to see a poster reporting a failure.

If I bought some lights that included them in the package for wiring the lights, I would probably use. Or I might use wire nuts and put the WAGOs in with my electrical stuff for future use.

I think they are much better than 3M Scotch-Locks for 12 volts wiring for boats, trailers, cars, RVs, etc.

 

[lilscorpion]

I started a thread on the GJF about WAGOs:



http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=286400&highlight=WAGO



For low voltage (like the LED wiring) 12/24volts or temporary, test fit/trouble shooting 120 volts, I would use them.



I think their design of the lever apparently going over center is better and more reliable than the mechanism in backstabbed outlets. I presume you don't backstab. I agree with that the amount of pressure needed to "open" them is material, much more than I was expecting when I played with my first one.



I didn't like to see a poster reporting a failure.



If I bought some lights that included them in the package for wiring the lights, I would probably use. Or I might use wire nuts and put the WAGOs in with my electrical stuff for future use.



I think they are much better than 3M Scotch-Locks for 12 volts wiring for boats, trailers, cars, RVs, etc.

Not a product confidence builder for sure. Regarding the backstab - I've occasionally wondered why I've never seen one actually wired using the backstab approach. Not a single time. As a result, I've never done it myself. The other way seems verifiable...I mean I can actually see the wire is correctly seated with the screw. Guess I will stick to that approach.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Regarding the backstab - I've occasionally wondered why I've never seen one actually wired using the backstab approach. Not a single time. As a result, I've never done it myself. The other way seems verifiable...I mean I can actually see the wire is correctly seated with the screw. Guess I will stick to that approach.

I have to admit, when I first discovered "backstabbing outlets" I was elated; easy, quick, looked secure. Then I read the comments from real electricians and I quickly condemned them.

The only backstabbed I've seen are a few in our current house built in the early to mid 90s. As I find them, I backwire them if that is available or just replace the outlets with backwired outlets.

The accounts about finding backstabbing problems down the road convinced me to never use it or allow it.

 

[cleason]

i was an electrical contractor, back stabbing caused me some service calls. i stopped doing it in the 80s.when u back stab u need to pull on wire to set it.

 

[got2boostit2]

Subscribed for all the great tips here.

 

[lilscorpion]

FINALLY finished the router buddy I made kore than a year ago (I think). Back then I purchased a Porter Cable handheld oscillating sander (PC121) so I could make a plate and use it in the buddy as one of the accessories. I never got around to it until today.

I had made a plate that would allow me to mount a jigsaw upside down in the buddy.



I wanted to test and see if I could make a long accurate cut as a test so I mounted it in my full sized router table.



With the fence I made a 30-some inch cut. It actually made a fairly accurate cut - minimal blade defection.





However, as I was cutting, it occurred to me what a dumb idea it really is and how smart the design of the jigsaw is with the blade going down through the material away from the operator. After the test cut, the jigsaw was removed and the plate went in the drawer never to come out again...until today. Instead of making a new plate for the sander, I decided to just use this one and offset it so I could use the jigsaw if needed again some day.

It was an easy modification. A bolt pattern and a hole.



And Back to what I was originally working on. A spice rack for one of our kitchen drawers. I first used a 3/16-inch round over and broke the edges.



Then I switched to the oscillating sander android a once over to remove the tooling marks from the pieces.



Worked perfectly. I had ordered a set of mandrels so I'd have a variety of sizes for the future.



Now I think I'm going to make another buddy so I can set up the tools side by side. The convenience of having hem set up and next to each other would be nice.

 

[LennyTheLizard]

I'm curious what the aluminum track is in your router buddy.
Is that a Kreg T-Slot track or something similar.

And also, what material are you using for the top of the router buddy. Is that some prelaminated panel cut to size, or did you put the laminate top on a piece of ply yourself?

Awesome work as always!

Thanks,

 

[JustinS]

Excellent!

 

[lilscorpion]

I'm curious what the aluminum track is in your router buddy.

Is that a Kreg T-Slot track or something similar.



And also, what material are you using for the top of the router buddy. Is that some prelaminated panel cut to size, or did you put the laminate top on a piece of ply yourself?



Awesome work as always!



Thanks,

The miter track is from Rockler. It's just like the slot on a table saw.

The top is a black laminate sheet that I got at Home Depot for $25/sheet (half off) a while ago because they had damaged edges.

Thanks for the compliments!