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Tooling (Re)Organization

Dusty.Tools

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Aug 6, 2018
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Front of House
I engrave the tooling tray lettering on the backside of the clear 1/8 acrylic. A layer of black under that and the lettering shows up white. Works well and keeps relevant info with each tool.

This is the digitizing tablet. I put whatever shape I want on it, use a pen shaped transducer and it turns it into a .dxf file. It works really well. It’s crazy.

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Why on earth did I never think of doing that! It’s genius!


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lilscorpion

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It has been too long, I am getting a twitch....

How are things going?


It has been a minute and I’m getting the same twitch. 🤪

So a little update - I spent the last 2 months “negotiating” the right to move into the final phase of the garage transformation (more on it in a minute). By negotiating I mean building up honey-do credit by knocking uff some things around the house. Most specifically, a refresh of the basement. Added in-wall Klipsch side and rear channels to the hone theater, fixed the plumbing issues in the basement bath, rebuilt the entertainment center (new cabinet), l built some storage shelves, and will replace all of the trim.

With that mostly behind me now, I was able to get some things knocked out leading up to the next phase. If you’ll recall, I had installed cabinets over the dual 7’ garage doors.

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It turned out to be a fairly nice place for longer-term storage. Problem was, to get at anything up there I had to close the garage door. You can see how they turned out in the background of this shot.

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Now I have always hated the dual lower garage doors. Having them hanging about 7’ off the ground makes using the space below them limited. The rails hung so low only so much of the wall was really usable.

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We started having some issue with our openers and doors so I seized the opportunity and upgraded.

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The header looks bare without the cabinets up there.

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The doors fit so tight to the header that I can’t use the space anymore for cabinets but now I have access much higher on the side walls under the railing.

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When fully open the garage door is about 6” from the ceiling. Only reason it can’t be closer is the pulley that hangs off the side of the springs.

The doors are fully insulated with an extremely high R-Value. Should help a lot with keeping the heat in (yeah, heater is finally next!!)

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Awesome upgrade. Makes the garage feel much larger...and I need some more lights.
 

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Strouty

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Southern Maine
That looks like a very nice upgrade! Having the wall space accessible is a great thing, much more useful and it won’t matter if you have the doors open.
 

Terranova

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Grove City, OH
Man! I love my above door cabinets but I DO hate having to close the door and move a vehicle to get to them. I occasionally lust after high mount doors. I just don't know. Lol. Thanks for the added internal conflict. Hahaha
 
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lilscorpion

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That looks like a very nice upgrade! Having the wall space accessible is a great thing, much more useful and it won’t matter if you have the doors open.


The biggest advantage is having the door and tracks way up and out of the way. With the precious setup I couldn’t do much under the doors when open because they sat at right above 7’. I couldn’t spin a sheet of plywood (easily). I really could only do flat work which is only one phase of many projects. This meant that most of the work I did was constrained to the front half of each bay. With the new setup, I can now use the whole garage...awesome.
 
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lilscorpion

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Man! I love my above door cabinets but I DO hate having to close the door and move a vehicle to get to them. I occasionally lust after high mount doors. I just don't know. Lol. Thanks for the added internal conflict. Hahaha


The price isn’t cheap but if you know you’ll need doors and openers eventually, the upgrade is worth saving in advance for. The guy I used only charged the hardware difference of $150/door (the kit is referred to as a high-lift kit) and no difference in labor. Soon as I found that out I knew I was going to upgrade both doors, it was a no-brainer
 
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lilscorpion

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I have a LiftMaster 8500 shaft drive garage door opener in the race shop. Really, really like it.


That’s what I got and really like them as well. Really like how up and out if the way they are. They’re a little slower than what I’m used to but I can adapt. Between the quietness of the direct drive openers and the nylon wheels, the door is super silent. Quite the change.
 

Oldbear

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Aug 31, 2011
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620
Location
Linden, Alberta, Canada
we have the Liftmaster 8500 and a high lift door - it's great and provides the space needed to vehicles on the lift. This was last year during the build. We have a 16ft x 10ft door with an R18 rating. The walls are 12ft high with a 14.5ft peak inside - I had the manufacturer match the rise/run of my ceiling.
 

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lilscorpion

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we have the Liftmaster 8500 and a high lift door - it's great and provides the space needed to vehicles on the lift. This was last year during the build. We have a 16ft x 10ft door with an R18 rating. The walls are 12ft high with a 14.5ft peak inside - I had the manufacturer match the rise/run of my ceiling.

Jealous of your garage specs. That's exactly what I wish my garage was. Sadly, my ceiling is only 10' 8" where a lift would go. The door is right at 7', my jeep currently clears the opening by 4" at it's conservatively lifted height. I do have plans to go up 2 inches here shortly but that may be all I'll be able to do.

Not that it matters much but now the Liftmaster 8500's have a black case.
 

carnutdallas

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Messages
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Black case 8500’s would be nice! Oh well. Mine are 2 years old and love them.


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lilscorpion

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Wrapping up the garage door install - needed to install the “bay lights”. Found out that they’re motion activated (*****). Would prefer that they’d just turn on with the doors and then stay on for maybe 10 minutes and then turn off.

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I’ve been using a drop cord draped over my cord reel to get power to the door openers until I could wire a box in the ceiling.

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Standing there looking at it I realized that the space between the motors was wide enough for the stereo Which currently is mounted in a spot that fires into the backside of one of the kitchen walls. My wife hasn’t enjoyed my jams...

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Killed two birds with one stone.

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Next, 8-foot LED lights.
 

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Bob Heine

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Standing there looking at it I realized that the space between the motors was wide enough for the stereo Which currently is mounted in a spot that fires into the backside of one of the kitchen walls. My wife hasn’t enjoyed my jams...

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Matt, are those openings next to the former stereo location insulation- and drywall-free? I suspect the wall openings mimic a base reflex speaker enclosure. Probably still works well to transmit any kind of garage noise.

The garage door and opener upgrade is fantastic. Not having giant radiators heating and cooling the space will make the garage a more comfortable destination year-round.
 

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lilscorpion

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Matt, are those openings next to the former stereo location insulation- and drywall-free? I suspect the wall openings mimic a base reflex speaker enclosure. Probably still works well to transmit any kind of garage noise.


The entire garage was (drywall) finished. All of the cavities I’ve opened up, for various reasons, aren’t insulated and neither is the ceiling. The hole you see in the pic used to have a grate over it. The hole behind it was a return for a garage exhaust fan I removed a while back. I’ll end up sealing it back up again now that I don’t need the return anymore. You’re probably right on the sound comment, I’m sure the hole/wall/access to the ceiling is helping to move sound.
 
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lilscorpion

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Today I started in on the project I’ve been putting off since we moved into the house 9 or so years ago - the electrical. I had mounted 5 eight foot fluorescent cold weather lights 6 years ago and the garage had what I thought was good lighting until I hung a new LED light in the basement pantry area which blew me away. The light was 4’ long, 5000k, and 400 lumens output. The second I turned it on, I knew I was going to redo the shop.

The 8’ fluorescent lights so throw a lot of light. I have three 8’ running end to end which go the length of the back single of the tandem side of the garage. When I hung them, I hung the first all the way to the back centered on a light box in the ceiling. I than ran. 14-2 romex through the body of the three lights to power them all.

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I only had a single 8’ fluorescent strip on the single car side which you can kinda see behind the wall-o-cabinets. The single light did ok but it forced me to really only work directly below it.

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I wanted to wire all of the lights to a junction box but whomever finished the garage seemed to think access wasn’t necessary so I had to cut one.

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I purchased 2 sheets of OSB and cut them into 2 x 4’ pieces which I took up into the attic along with some 2x4’s. I spent the next 3 hours installing a runway so I’d have a safe way to move around in the attic for wiring and to run the various vent tubes I need to run (hood for the kitchen and the shop heater).

For height reference, the hole you see in the below pic is 11’ off the garage floor. [emoji15]. As luck would have it, both my drop light and my drop cord were perfectly located to use them in the ceiling. Totally handy.

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Unfortunately for me, the crest of the roof is ~5’4” off the runway so I spent the entire time crouched down half squatting and crawling around on my knees. 3 hours of that reminded me of my age and I couldn’t have been more ready to come down and start hanging lights. The first light I hug so it would give full coverage when the door is open or closed.

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Second light I hung parallel an 4’ away. I’m hoping to have enough overlap that I eliminate shadows.

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From the other vantage point the color difference is more obvious.

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I then moved over to the other side and hung lights in the same location.

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I then shifted back to the tandem side where I now have to remove lights before I can hang the new ones. I hung one more 4’ in parallel to the other 2. 4’ in from the third I set the first for the tandem perpendicular to the 3. Now the difference in both color and brightness is becoming evident.

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I’m beat. An entire day of up and down the ladder, kneeling, and crouching has earned me some couch time tonight. Tomorrow the heater and the remaining lights.
 

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Strouty

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Looks like daylight in there!

I hear you on kneeling, back in 2011 I worked for 2 weeks inside a water tank, you could only kneel and it was awful, every night I had to ice my knees, some days we were in there for 14 hours. I was so glad when I got to go outside to hang the antennas.

All your effort is well worth it and I can see a major difference, it must be even better in person. You also picked a great time to do the work upstairs, could have been hot as hades instead.
 
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lilscorpion

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Looks like daylight in there!

I hear you on kneeling, back in 2011 I worked for 2 weeks inside a water tank, you could only kneel and it was awful, every night I had to ice my knees, some days we were in there for 14 hours. I was so glad when I got to go outside to hang the antennas.

All your effort is well worth it and I can see a major difference, it must be even better in person. You also picked a great time to do the work upstairs, could have been hot as hades instead.


14 hours in a water tank on your knees? Think that would kill me.

++ on time of year comment. Oddly enough, it’s really mostly dumb-*** luck. I only think about getting the heater hung when it’s freezing *** cold. Today it was about 80 degrees up in the attic (low 40’s outside) and I had to shed a layer because I was sweating. Imagine if it had been in the 90’s outside. Guess I’m smart for a dummy.
 
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Terranova

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Grove City, OH
You know you're getting old when you get excited about more lighting in your garage but I tell you what, for the next several times you head out to the shop to work you're gonna feel an excitement and anticipation that can only be summed up in a picture. At least it's that way when I head out.

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lilscorpion

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You know you're getting old when you get excited about more lighting in your garage but I tell you what, for the next several times you head out to the shop to work you're gonna feel an excitement and anticipation that can only be summed up in a picture. At least it's that way when I head out.



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That’s exactly how it feels, exactly. [emoji16]
 

Oldbear

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Messages
620
Location
Linden, Alberta, Canada
Wrapping up the garage door install - needed to install the “bay lights”. Found out that they’re motion activated (*****). Would prefer that they’d just turn on with the doors and then stay on for maybe 10 minutes and then turn off.

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They can be paired to your openers to come on when they open, set to the motion sensor (which has some time adjustment) and you can have more than one come on at a time. Mine are enough to get around the shop and get into the car without turning on the main lights. I've got mine wall mounted a long ways from the opener - and don't plug them into the same outlet as the opener or they start acting "funny".
 
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lilscorpion

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They can be paired to your openers to come on when they open, set to the motion sensor (which has some time adjustment) and you can have more than one come on at a time. Mine are enough to get around the shop and get into the car without turning on the main lights. I've got mine wall mounted a long ways from the opener - and don't plug them into the same outlet as the opener or they start acting "funny".


Funny like what?
 
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lilscorpion

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I wasted the first couple hours of the day trying to figure out where I wanted to hang the heater. I had three different locations that I was considering each of which had pros and cons. In the end I decided to put the heater above the Tooling box and the mill where there’s a shelf...which meant the upper shelf would need to come down.

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I had some perforated steel tubing that I had used to have the heater in the prior garage and mounted it crossing the studs using the old light box as a reference. For scale, the heater is 28” long, 18.5” wide, studs are 24” on center, and the perforated tubing is 36”.

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The heater was up on the top shelf over the bench (what a stupid place to store it). I was able to pull it off on top of the ladder and pivot it over to the shelf below the brackets.

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At first I was thinking of figuring out how to get it up on top of the blue ladder but the height difference was significant. Last thing I want to do is drop the damn thing off the ladder. The orange ladder was 10” below the shelf. I found that two of my bins were long enough, when on end, to make up the difference.

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I secured them to the ladder using a pair of clamps. So that’s what those big holes in the top are for.

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I was planning to hang the heater by all-thread and ratchet it up using nuts.

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It occurred to me that it would be a hell of a lot faster to double but the ends and use an impact to spin the thread like a bolt making the nuts fly up the rod.

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In less than a minute I had it hanging unsupported from below.

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I worked side to side lifting the heater 1 1/2” at a time. Sounds slower than it felt.

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A little tired of working in the dark so I decided to take a break and hang the remaining lights now that I know where they’ll be. A 4’ light goes behind the heater, above the mill.

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I threw the last 8’ up on the bench. Thought I’d show you guys the dumb-*** design.

With the frosted cover off you can see there’s two 48” long led strips.

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They’re attached to a piece of metal that’s screwed to stand-offs. You have to remove this plate to hang and wire it.

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To hang it, you need to hold the housing in place while you screw it to the ceiling. During this step that piece of steel-n-lights is dangling by the wires.

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I think that’s why they have them zip-tied together. It works but it’s a little ackward and then you have to put the 8 little screws back in place while holding up the flimsy sheet metal led tray in place. Luckily I lost no screws while hanging the 9 lights.

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After running back up the ladder to Tga article for a moment of wiring, lit. That’ll do.

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Back to the heater. I was planning on just cutting the all-thread off once the heater was in its final position and then I began to wonder how the hell id get it down again if I needed to. It occurred to me I could make some brackets and bolt the upper and lower perforated tube to each other.

I cut some 1 x 3 x 1/8” steel plate on the bandsaw.

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With a 4 1/2 grinder I eased the edges and rounded the corners. Man it’s been a while since I’ve done any sheet metal fabrication. Was kinda fun but short lived.

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Quick program on the mill - cut 4 holes per plate at .325”.

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I jacked the heater up until I could bolt on the plates.

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It’s now at one with the ceiling. Looks super industrial too. Now I valued remove the all-thread.

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I spent the next few hours running back and forth to the big box store getting gas line fittings. I had to run the gas line up the wall and modify the shelves as I went. Finally almost ready to go.

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Next I have to hook up the thermostat and cut in the exhaust duct.
 

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Oldbear

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Aug 31, 2011
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620
Location
Linden, Alberta, Canada
Funny like what?

Sometimes they would not come on when they should, or they wouldn't turn off at all - with killing the power and counting to 10. Would come on with the door opener but not the sensor. You know - funny for them but not for the owner...

I found out it's a known issue from this forum and other internet searches.

I still like my two lights - it is enough light to get around in my shop (get to the car or bike, grab a tool or a beer) without turning on the main lights - that way I can leave without being in the dark or without leaving the lights on.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Location
Colorado
Sometimes they would not come on when they should, or they wouldn't turn off at all - with killing the power and counting to 10. Would come on with the door opener but not the sensor. You know - funny for them but not for the owner...

I found out it's a known issue from this forum and other internet searches.

I still like my two lights - it is enough light to get around in my shop (get to the car or bike, grab a tool or a beer) without turning on the main lights - that way I can leave without being in the dark or without leaving the lights on.

Ok, that's what mine are doing. I went through the manual and tried to set them up the way I wanted them and they're still wacko. Now that I know it's not me, I can live with what they're doing except when they decided to stay on and don't turn off.
 
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lilscorpion

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The 'allthread elevator' is the most clever thing I've seen in a while.
Well played sir.

Thank you, appreciate the compliment. Ironically, it took me all of about 20 minutes to get the heater hung once I got into it and developed a plan. I spent nearly 7 years putting off installing it because, from the ground, I couldn't figure out how the hell I was going to lift it up there myself. Guess what they say is true, the first step is the hardest.

thanks for following along.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Colorado
Still working through the re-layout activities to support the high raise doors. This weekend I got the vent run up into the attic on the heater. The roof shingles were too cold to install the flashing. I probably could have forced it but was worried that the storm rolling in could have made for a bad homeowner moment if I ran into troubles.

Also patched all of the holes in the walls and the ceiling. Drywall repairs are a weakness for me. I’ve learned to get good at them but **** at a simple patch. A funny thing to complain about, but my problem is they end up too nice for the shop. In many cases the patched part is flatter than the undamaged part of the walls and I spend more time than it’s worth.

Now I have to figure out what to do with the cabinets I previously had over the garage doors. Starting at the large Systainer wall, the depth of the wall matched the cabinets exactly leaving a nice amount of storage overhead.

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With a little overhang I was able to run 3 wide without narrowing any of them. Since I’ll likely have to re-configure these again, full width is better at this time.

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Now I have a place to store the tile saw and the kreg foreman pocket hole machine which I can access with nothing more than a step ladder. Bins that I previously had to lower the garage door to access are within reach while standing flat footed on the floor (well the bottom 2 rows are).

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Moving to the newly exposed side wall. I disassembled the cabinets that used to be over the garage doors and narrowed them to my new standard specs. They went from ~37.5” long by 18” wide to 36” long by 12” wide.

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As they completed, I added them to the top of the other cabinets. So much more accessible storage.

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As dumb luck would have it, at 28” tall, the top of the cabinet is perfectly even with the door track giving full access to all except the place the stop is located.

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Kinda funny - now that the cabinets are up I can tell the garage door track isn’t square to the wall. The installer didn’t have a visual reference and clearly didn’t measure. Must not matter because the door worked just fine the way it was.

I also narrowed the cabinet that was hung between the doors so the door releases had a place to dangle. Got it reinstalled and loaded up. Oddly, everything I had in it still fits.

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Loaded the adjusted cabinets temporarily to get everything back off the floor and cleaned up. Another step closer.

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Here’s a pano of that side of the garage.

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And the wife is again happy.

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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Colorado
Looks like you will be all organized before the snow is gone.



I have to be. Need to carve into my son’s Jeep and get the new axles, suspension, and body armor installed before July. Figure it’ll take me a couple of months at least. I had planned on getting a 4-post lift in the next month but with BendPak releasing a new lift in June which has a lift height high enough to park the jeeps under it, I’ll probably wait for it now (June)
 

86turbodsl

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Jul 1, 2005
Messages
6,554
Location
Michigan
That garage is really looking good these days. I bet you will be super happy to have that heater running!
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Location
Colorado
That garage is really looking good these days. I bet you will be super happy to have that heater running!


I’m happy it’s hung, I’ll be super happy when I can turn it on. I can’t at the moment though because I wasn’t able to run the exhaust pipe through the roof. Without that last step, the heater exhausts into the attic and, then likely the house. Too much carbon monoxide and I’ll take the long dirt nap before I’m ready. 🤢

As soon as the roof heats up enough to make the shingles even a little pliable I’ll get it installed and be able to use the heater. Until then, I’ll have to wear mittens and my tuke in the shop to stay warm.
 
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Dick in Wisconsin

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Joined
Mar 3, 2012
Messages
3,048
Location
Shawano, Wisconsin
Been there, done that. Heat is one of my favorite things in the winter, in the summer I prefer AC. ;)

Wish this heater did AC. May eventually install a mini split but “eventually” is probably years down the road.

I was fortunate to start out with a clean slate when I built the 1,000sf race shop. I knew up front I wanted in-floor radiant heat. Once the shell was up and before I finished the rough electrical and put the interior in I found a couple of large 220volt in-wall air conditioning units at a local Sears that was closing. So those got installed and wired. I think two units might be overkill, but they pretty slick.

Have to admit I use the heat more than the A/C so far.
 
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lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Location
Colorado
I was fortunate to start out with a clean slate when I built the 1,000sf race shop. I knew up front I wanted in-floor radiant heat. Once the shell was up and before I finished the rough electrical and put the interior in I found a couple of large 220volt in-wall air conditioning units at a local Sears that was closing. So those got installed and wired. I think two units might be overkill, but they pretty slick.



Have to admit I use the heat more than the A/C so far.

Hmm, in-wall units? Same kind people stick in their widows and plug in?

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Terranova said:
Gotta love "dumb luck". I know it's come to my aid in several garage situations!


In general, I’ve been extremely lucky and blessed. Thy being said, still no AC joy. [emoji16]




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Strouty

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Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,208
Location
Southern Maine
I have a 28k BTU in wall AC unit, just like a window unit except thicker to allow for the wall. It has a sleeve installed through the wall to create a window, then you slide the unit in. Not quite as easy as it sounds, but it works well.
 

86turbodsl

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Jul 1, 2005
Messages
6,554
Location
Michigan
This is a good way to go if you don't have the room in your building. Dad did it for years.

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