To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Tooling (Re)Organization

Monza Harry

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,433
Location
Windsor ON
lilscorpion, to improve your finish at the tip of your ball cutter, you have a few options, plunge from the side [drill with the mill] or tilt the head say 5* to get the "web" off of the bottom or since you have a CNC you can tilt the piece and use the programming to achieve the web free cut. The web on the cutter is just dragging along the bottom and that is the reason for your dissatisfaction with the finish. I know this advise is uninvited/unsolicited, but I can tell from reading this thread you want to make this as nice as you can, and it shows in spades, some [Ok all] real beautiful work here! Harry
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
lilscorpion, to improve your finish at the tip of your ball cutter, you have a few options, plunge from the side [drill with the mill] or tilt the head say 5* to get the "web" off of the bottom or since you have a CNC you can tilt the piece and use the programming to achieve the web free cut. The web on the cutter is just dragging along the bottom and that is the reason for your dissatisfaction with the finish. I know this advise is uninvited/unsolicited, but I can tell from reading this thread you want to make this as nice as you can, and it shows in spades, some [Ok all] real beautiful work here! Harry


Harry - uninvited feedback? This is Garage Journal. We share and (especially me) appreciate others ideas and feedback. I’m constantly learning from others’ and find great enjoyment from doing so.

Tilting the head is interesting, never thought if that before. You’re totally right, that would cause the part to engage the work piece in the meat of flutes as opposed to where the flutes meet (ha!). The only thing I don’t like about the idea is I try not to tilt the head ever (if I can avoid it) because the mill has CNC. Rotating the head prevents me from running multiple tools in a single program (unless of course i could figure how to accomplish the other ops with the head tilted. I’m going to have to remember that one though. Tilting the head or angling the part would work and leave a nicer finish.

I did consider your other recommendation, it’s what I refer to as “the poor mans ball mill”. I probably should have done it that way anyway, I chose not to because the 3/4 end mills I have max depth of cut at just under the 1 1/2-inch and they’re not relief cit at the shank. I could have changed the design to include a relief somehow in the part but the ball mill seemed easier.
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Ok, can’t live with the surface finish issue. I want back to the profile and looked at it again. The root of the slot is square not round like the ball mill. On either side there’s a subtle transition to a 45* angle that matches almost perfectly with a 1/4” ball mill. It then transitions another 45* straight up but square (no radius in transition).

img_0595.jpg


I had a 1/4’ ball mill so I tried to copy the profile exactly. The root of the profile is almost exactly 3/8” so I used a 3/8” end mill to form the bottom. Before cutting the 45* angle, I just barely nicked the walls with the 1/4” ball mill.

img_0843.jpg


There are moments where I try too hard to be too custom. I probably wasted a handful of hours and really accomplished nothing (except turning a piece of aluminum into junk). The left profile is what would be the completed one. The radius transitions from the root of the profile into the 45* angles are too wide and don’t line up well against the 80/20 profile. The radius transition also needed to start sooner. Though the clamp goes into the profile easily, it does now interfere with the 80/20 piece. So to hell with the 1/4” ball mill. I tried cutting the last one without (3/8” flat root and 45* walls) and wouldn’t you know it, it matches up so close to perfectly to the 80/20 profile it’s done done.

img_0857.jpg


It’s difficult to see in the picture but those faint light spots in between the two pieces is where I used a deburring tool to soften both edges. It actually transitions between the two pieces almost perfectly without mis-alignment or interference in any way.

img_0856.jpg


Walked back towards the bench and thought I'd share - in many of my shop pics I show an in progress mess. Here's the bench in usable form.

img_0859.jpg


With these benches attaching to the wall, there’s no need for the fancy corner pieces on the back of the benches. These pieces were by far the easiest to make.

img_0681.jpg


img_0685.jpg


With the part now ready to go, now I just need to run duplicates. I decided I’ll make an extra set for the 1530 extrusions so I’ll have a set on the shelf waiting should I want to build another table in the future.

img_0827.jpg


And 3 more of the front corner brackets. After the machining is done, I clean them up in soapy water and a scotchbrite pad. The slight abrasion does a nice job cleaning up the micro-scratches that chips can sometimes leave in the finish. It also every so slightly and subtly breaks the edges that we’re rounded over. On the left is freshly machined, on the right is one I’ve ‘cleaned up’

img_0869.jpg


img_0870.jpg


img_0871.jpg


Now to machine the set for my existing 1545 bench. Ever hear of a 1-2-3 block? Well these would be the 1.5-3-4.5 blocks. The stop was previously set for 3” long parts and I need to move it back to fit a 4.5” long part.

img_0688.jpg


After facing the rest of the bocks, I made a few adjustments to the cad file so I could run multiple parts at once. Measure the distance between the 2 vises - 12.5". Add a "Repeat” function right before every tooling change and enter an X-offset of 12.5”. I always pre-view the program in 3-d when setting up duplicates to make sure that I didn’t miss a step somewhere.

img_0877.jpg


Move to position 0,0 and then x = 12.5. Now I can back the material into the gauge until it's zero, clamp the vise down, and I've got exactly 12.5" between the parts. This would work exactly the same if you had a DRO by the way only you'd move the table to position 12.5,0 by hand.

img_0876.jpg


Now here's where having a CNC really shines. Cycle Start and everything it does on the first vise is repeated on the second.

img_0881.jpg


Second to last op - rounding the edges over with a .125” 2 flute quarter round bit. This is my favorite step. Run the bit at about 2400 RPM and it leaves a very smooth surface finish in a single pass.

img_0885.jpg


And the finished part - a 1545 corner. I'm liking the profile much more than the way it looked with the ball mill.

img_0894.jpg


Test fit

img_0902.jpg


What I’d really like to do is put together one of the benches BUT I realized that the two bolts I’ve been using are the only two I have. I’ll have to order 60 of them and wait until next weekend. I’ll need to cut the rear two blocks but I’m getting very close to wrapping this one up. Parts go back in the bin, bin on the shelf, and that’s a wrap.

img_0893.jpg
 

Grant Gunderson

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2013
Messages
2,317
Location
Bellingham, WA
Would it work to just miter the two pieces of 8020 then do another 45 degree cut to break the outside of the resulting 90 degree angle? You could then join the two pieces using the slots on the inside of the corner. Maybe I am missing something?
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Would it work to just miter the two pieces of 8020 then do another 45 degree cut to break the outside of the resulting 90 degree angle? You could then join the two pieces using the slots on the inside of the corner. Maybe I am missing something?


You could, it would give you access to both t-slots but the voids in the extrusion would leave the end looking unfinished and exposed edges may snag on clothing, grab power cores of tools, ext.

To be completely honest, I’ve already skinned this cat. I cut slots in the extrusion faces to allow the clamps to slide in. I didn’t like the way the exposed end of the extrusion looked which I could have mitered/45’d them together or just made a cap. Either would have been far less work but neither are as fun. I really like the building process and especially when I get to make batches of parts. I’m not convinced I know why I enjoy it so much other than it gives me something to hold in my hand that I’ve built and watching the CNC make multiples is really cool. I don’t need a CNC lathe but I really really want one.

More or less, just sharing some parts I’ve made Kayla because they’re cool but specifically on this thread because they’re elements of the latest shop re-organization/refresh.
 
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Fair enough. Keep up the good work. I have a very similar garage layout and this thread has been full of some great ideas. Thanks!

Thanks! Initially I wasn't a huge fan of the tandem layout but have learned that, for shop space, it may actually be more ideal than the conventional 3-car side-by-side style. Main reason is that you have more usable walls in the tandem configuration and more walls = more benches, work surfaces, and storage space. For this phase of my life, it's worked well. Next phase I'd like more space (but who doesn't).
 

Strouty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,209
Location
Southern Maine
My shop is a large box, previous shop had a dividing wall, felt like tons more space with the divider wall for exactly the reason you stated. I have been working on setting up equipment back to back to waste as little space as I can. So far my shop is just one big mess of stuff, most everything is on wheels and that allows for quick adjustments, but I am not sure it is better.
 

stioc

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,317
Location
SoCal
I recall reading how you build your cabinets/workbenches in one of your posts, but can't remember if it was in your previous Organization thread or this one. I tried the search but couldn't find it. Do you happen to know when/what page it was on?

Also, been meaning to ask if you've ever shown us a shot of your garage from the driveway? I've been following your updates for a while but I still don't have a clear picture of which side of your garage is tandem and how you have it all divided up.
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
stioc said:
I recall reading how you build your cabinets/workbenches in one of your posts, but can't remember if it was in your previous Organization thread or this one. I tried the search but couldn't find it. Do you happen to know when/what page it was on?

Try starting at post #89 on this thread. Thats where I started the latest build on the main bench and tooling bench.

stioc said:
Also, been meaning to ask if you've ever shown us a shot of your garage from the driveway? I've been following your updates for a while but I still don't have a clear picture of which side of your garage is tandem and how you have it all divided up.

Good question, no I have not but I probably should. I'll do that soon.
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Haven’t had a lot of time in the shop yet this weekend but did have a little this morning so I thought I’d blow out in if the smaller organization projects on the list - router bits storage organizer.

After moving the router bits over to the router plate modules, I’ve been keeping them in a Systainer MIDI

4e31a4f758eff1d30eac1dd5b89346b9.jpg

more or less the same way they used to sit in the drawer. I have a little router bit block I made out of some scrap melamine. It worked well enough but didn’t have enough storage for all the bits I had and, as a result, I just started to leave them in the containers they came in making it difficult to know what I had.

0f5f31f9d62d0a8ebcbe527b120c065d.jpg

I had some left over 1/2-inch HDPE sheet that was long enough to make a boy holder out of so I cut it to length and trimmed it to match the profile of the inside of the systainer.

f1b2ee2fb7be574a805a39dd66ddd259.jpg

With the profile cut, I moved to the mill where I machined a sequence of 1/2 and 1/4-inch holes making sure that the spacing was adequate for bits up to 2-inches in diameter but optimized enough for the bits smaller than 1/2-inch in diameter.

dd782245cf520164b96c379963b49eb4.jpg

I then removed the bits from their containers and organized them by type and shape. Now I have room to grow and bits are easier to access and find.

05aebeb460490a6296b913780224efcb.jpg

Thanks for looking.
 

Attachments

  • 4e31a4f758eff1d30eac1dd5b89346b9.jpg
    4e31a4f758eff1d30eac1dd5b89346b9.jpg
    50.5 KB · Views: 1
  • 05aebeb460490a6296b913780224efcb.jpg
    05aebeb460490a6296b913780224efcb.jpg
    54.6 KB · Views: 2
  • dd782245cf520164b96c379963b49eb4.jpg
    dd782245cf520164b96c379963b49eb4.jpg
    52.2 KB · Views: 1
  • f1b2ee2fb7be574a805a39dd66ddd259.jpg
    f1b2ee2fb7be574a805a39dd66ddd259.jpg
    64.4 KB · Views: 1
  • 0f5f31f9d62d0a8ebcbe527b120c065d.jpg
    0f5f31f9d62d0a8ebcbe527b120c065d.jpg
    61.5 KB · Views: 1

Mecha

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 28, 2016
Messages
194
Location
Volunteer State
See the bit organizer is great, it's just the type of thing to have a mill for. I keep wanting to make a router table extension on my table saw but haven't done it because I want it to fit one of those inserts exactly. Basically I wish I had a mill for just that job.

Anyway, extremely clever. Nicely done.
 

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
I’ve standardized on this style tooling trays. The basic design came from a vendor I’ve bought a lot of specialty router bits from. I’ve varied the theme to suit my needs.

Clear acrylic is engraved on the underside, then a layer of black acrylic, short standoffs and bottom layer of black. All relevant info is there for each bit.

f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg

4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg

8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
 

Attachments

  • f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg
    f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg
    141.3 KB · Views: 1
  • 4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg
    4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg
    123.8 KB · Views: 1
  • 8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
    8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
    118.2 KB · Views: 1

Dusty.Tools

Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2018
Messages
10
Location
Front of House
I’ve standardized on this style tooling trays. The basic design came from a vendor I’ve bought a lot of specialty router bits from. I’ve varied the theme to suit my needs.

Clear acrylic is engraved on the underside, then a layer of black acrylic, short standoffs and bottom layer of black. All relevant info is there for each bit.

f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg

4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg

8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg



Wow, that’s awesome work!


——————————
dusty.tools
 

Attachments

  • 4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg
    4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg
    123.8 KB · Views: 1
  • 8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
    8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
    118.2 KB · Views: 1
  • f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg
    f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg
    141.3 KB · Views: 1
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
I’ve standardized on this style tooling trays. The basic design came from a vendor I’ve bought a lot of specialty router bits from. I’ve varied the theme to suit my needs.

Clear acrylic is engraved on the underside, then a layer of black acrylic, short standoffs and bottom layer of black. All relevant info is there for each bit.

f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg

4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg

8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg

These a fantastic!! I've seen your posts before and I spent about half an hour pondering if I should go after something similar but I didn't have any clear acrylic and I'm not yet confident enough to dive in on machining it. I've dabbled with single flute cutters a bit with okay results but nothing that finished this nicely. I've also watched a few videos about machining the stuff but I tend to stick to what I know. I have some setup issues too - I haven't solved for the engraving element on the mill yet. Part of the problem is RPM. Max on the mill is ~3k but you need nearly 3x that to run a true engraving bit. I tried once and I ended up snapping off the very tip of the tool because the feed rate was just too fast for how slow the tip was spinning (dragging vs. cutting)...and the mill was barely moving. I've contemplated making a router holder so I could attach a small counter motor to my mill (sigh).

Can you share some info about your machine setup/settings? What are you using for a cutter/end mill for both the profile and the engraving, depth of cut/spindle RPM/SFM for both, where you're designing them (CAD or conversational), etc. Any pointers or learnings would be greatly appreciated.

I can visualize converting my entire tooling rack to incorporate a design like this. Today I try to put all of my tools back in the same place when I'm done using them but every so often I shift them around a bit until one day I realize they're all messed up and I have to re-organize. Since I have all of my tools dedicated to holders there's no reason I couldn't I just need to get up the inertia to learn to work with polycarbonate.
 

Attachments

  • f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg
    f338d3288f01b78a029027eb9d81f8a9.jpg
    141.3 KB · Views: 1
  • 4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg
    4a7ca5dd53613f6f9274025c9e57d0e7.jpg
    123.8 KB · Views: 1
  • 8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
    8b7c08154a2053cec1559af6eda23a87.jpg
    118.2 KB · Views: 7

slodat

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
3,679
Location
Central-ish, WA
I'm cheating.. I use a CO2 laser to make these. Each layer is 1/8 cast acrylic.

Design is in Vectric Aspire.
 

Attachments

  • router tray.jpg
    router tray.jpg
    22 KB · Views: 149
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado

Attachments

  • be37c4ed818aa7c62f4dab445d6e2ad3.jpg
    be37c4ed818aa7c62f4dab445d6e2ad3.jpg
    81.4 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Another step - organizing my 1/4-inch bits. Back when I built the drawers and the driver rack I planned on coming back for the bit organizers and I’ve really gotten tired of looking for specific bits. They’ve migrated all over the shop like on just about any flat surface like above the main bench in one of the mini organizers but not in any order (necessarily)

8d35ec5b3d3008d3dc216ea1038358f9.jpg

Or they get thrown in one of the two drawers below the driver rack

6672deb5e93c7701894a020bdc310750.jpg

1cd90ca71048819fb30da9bffc5c2b3c.jpg

Took a few hours at the mill and my last piece of plastic, I ended up with plenty of storage and room to grow. Spent another hour or so chasing down all of the bits. All bits longer than 1 1/2-inches

a4abb9ef16cab1e71d3ae242d14e4612.jpg

And the standard length bits.

87882b96f281a6d986c9d8a4690322d7.jpg

Much better.

f692a053ffd8da61169a29edc945d091.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 8d35ec5b3d3008d3dc216ea1038358f9.jpg
    8d35ec5b3d3008d3dc216ea1038358f9.jpg
    53.3 KB · Views: 2
  • f692a053ffd8da61169a29edc945d091.jpg
    f692a053ffd8da61169a29edc945d091.jpg
    50.4 KB · Views: 1
  • 87882b96f281a6d986c9d8a4690322d7.jpg
    87882b96f281a6d986c9d8a4690322d7.jpg
    64.6 KB · Views: 1
  • 6672deb5e93c7701894a020bdc310750.jpg
    6672deb5e93c7701894a020bdc310750.jpg
    68 KB · Views: 1
  • 1cd90ca71048819fb30da9bffc5c2b3c.jpg
    1cd90ca71048819fb30da9bffc5c2b3c.jpg
    67 KB · Views: 1
  • a4abb9ef16cab1e71d3ae242d14e4612.jpg
    a4abb9ef16cab1e71d3ae242d14e4612.jpg
    64.5 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

Monza Harry

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,433
Location
Windsor ON
lil' there are cheaper versions of this but I couldn't find one with my search prowess [apparently lack thereof] but how about something like this:
https://www.mmsonline.com/videos/milling-with-air I used one years ago that was a heavy duty straight air grinder with a 3/4" Dia. shank and 30,000 RPM of air powered spindle used "Dotco" collets 1/8" and did pretty well with tiny cutters. Harry
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
lil' there are cheaper versions of this but I couldn't find one with my search prowess [apparently lack thereof] but how about something like this:

https://www.mmsonline.com/videos/milling-with-air I used one years ago that was a heavy duty straight air grinder with a 3/4" Dia. shank and 30,000 RPM of air powered spindle used "Dotco" collets 1/8" and did pretty well with tiny cutters. Harry



That's one of the nicer ones that the pros use which would keep the tool centered in the machine which is nice because you'd maintain full x and y capacity. There's some more backyard machinist approaches that hang a router off the side of the spindle. It's a project I might take on at some point.



8bb84f78caef507967eccd0c03c1dd02.jpg

4ed4ccafcf864bfb3a09f748ceddb9cf.jpg

6b710a30edd4658fa3da6230244eb9ae.jpg


For those who are interested, there's a nice writeup on engraving options for Knee Mills in the CNC Cookbook - https://www.cnccookbook.com/spindle-speeders-speed-increasers-and-high-speed-attachments/
 

Attachments

  • 6b710a30edd4658fa3da6230244eb9ae.jpg
    6b710a30edd4658fa3da6230244eb9ae.jpg
    65.1 KB · Views: 0
  • 4ed4ccafcf864bfb3a09f748ceddb9cf.jpg
    4ed4ccafcf864bfb3a09f748ceddb9cf.jpg
    51.5 KB · Views: 0
  • 8bb84f78caef507967eccd0c03c1dd02.jpg
    8bb84f78caef507967eccd0c03c1dd02.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 0
Last edited:

stioc

Well-known member
Joined
May 2, 2005
Messages
1,317
Location
SoCal
I have one of these 'drag' engraver bits (I bought mine from Tormach) for engraving. It's a bit spendy but not too bad. NYCNC has done a few videos on it.

https://toolguyd.com/cnc-diamond-drag-engraving-bit/

I agree though a higher speed spindle would be nice though. My round column mill converted to CNC also maxes out at 2800rpm or so. Using small bits and 4 flutes helps some when the speed is needed.
 
Last edited:

Strouty

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2010
Messages
38,209
Location
Southern Maine
I have been looking for a spindle speeder, they seem to be the cleanest way to up you RPMs, but finding one that fits at a good price is the tough part.
 

F-117HWK

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
283
Location
Virginia
Non-stop great ideas in here. Just something as simple as the website for the drawer slides has been a huge plus for me as we build a lot of drawers in our side business. :beer:

Wondering if you have a recommendation on what vise to get for a manual Bridgeport mill? It seems most recommend Kurt, but is there a specific model from there and what makes someone lean towards that one?
 

icecactus

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2011
Messages
302
And the finished part - a 1545 corner. I'm liking the profile much more than the way it looked with the ball mill.

img_0894.jpg


Test fit

img_0902.jpg
:drool:
If you decide to make some extras of these 1545 corners, I am very interested in buying 4 of them. Awesome job!
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
I have one of these 'drag' engraver bits (I bought mine from Tormach) for engraving. It's a bit spendy but not too bad. NYCNC has done a few videos on it.


Yeah, I’ve seen his vids. That seems like it would work ok but I’m assuming there are drawbacks. Maybe precision isn’t ideal? Just didn’t have the confidence to pull the trigger.

Wondering if you have a recommendation on what vise to get for a manual Bridgeport mill? It seems most recommend Kurt, but is there a specific model from there and what makes someone lean towards that one?

I have two Kurt 688’s. Bought the first one when I first bought the mill and a second a few years later so I could make the most of CNC after the upgrade. I zero’s them in and leave them alone and they just work. They’re fantastic vises they no longer make. The newer version is the DX6 which Kurt claims to be a significantly better vise than the 688. If it’s true, it’s the vise to get.

I would avoid an import vise. Buy quality once and it will last a lifetime.

I have been looking for a spindle speeder, they seem to be the cleanest way to up you RPMs, but finding one that fits at a good price is the tough part.


I occasionally see them used but even then they still demand $$$. The only thing I don’t like about them is they don’t fit within normal spindle Z-travel and you need to lower the bed quite a bit to use them. This makes it impossible to run the engraving as an operation within a CNC program and forces a second op...yuk.

:drool:

If you decide to make some extras of these 1545 corners, I am very interested in buying 4 of them. Awesome job!


Thank you. As of right now I don’t think I’ll make another set. The 1545 extrusion is more than I need for the type of shop tables I use. In the future my tables will be 1530’s until I need to build one in the 8’ long range (which will likely never happen).




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Monza Harry

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 29, 2018
Messages
1,433
Location
Windsor ON
I have been looking for a spindle speeder, they seem to be the cleanest way to up you RPMs, but finding one that fits at a good price is the tough part.

Now that spawned an Idea! A cheapy Air Drill would have a gear reduction in the compact head [planetary and at about 3:1]. Run that backwards and that would give you about 12G's not the best but I think that would help ALOT with small cutters. You would need to build an output shaft with A high speed bearing [plain flanged Oilite, with air and an in-line lubricator?] your output shaft would need a flange to make sure the oil from the lubricator goes out rather than down [composites would not necessarily like oil] and you may need an umbrella(?)

Wondering if you have a recommendation on what vise to get for a manual Bridgeport mill? It seems most recommend Kurt, but is there a specific model from there and what makes someone lean towards that one?
I have this one: https://cme-tools.myshopify.com/col.../precision-screwless-vises?variant=5743927043 [6" by 8" opening, I can not buy the 4140 steel for this price , (here in Canada,) (Can/US exchange was closer to par than now), for my not yet operational B'Port :lol_hitti] this looks beautiful, but as of right now it remains unverified, but at this price I am Ok with the idea that I purchased a semi finished piece for half of steel cost, if I built one I would have to grind it anyway! Kurt make Quality pieces just 3 to 4 times what I paid for this and I can stand mine on it's side or end as required for some hair brained idea I may [Ya, may have :lol_hitti] have that doesn't fit on my machines
Air spindles use a lot of air too. I'd bet most home shops don't have a compressor big enough with enough storage capacity.
The only thing I don’t like about them is they don’t fit within normal spindle Z-travel and you need to lower the bed quite a bit to use them. This makes it impossible to run the engraving as an operation within a CNC program and forces a second op...yuk.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yes and Yes the one I used about 30+ years ago was ~6" +/- Lg. and air tools [large HD Air Grinder] running at no load [high feed rate 0.005" DoC would seem like No Load] can use north of 20CFM that is 5HP+ and loud Harry
 

F-117HWK

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 17, 2012
Messages
283
Location
Virginia
Thanks for the vise suggestions. The DX6 is what I have been pondering for a little while. Once I get everything powered up this will most likely be the direction I move. :beer:
 
OP
L

lilscorpion

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 15, 2010
Messages
3,599
Location
Colorado
Got a lot done this weekend but not much to show except this - got the drawer pulls installed on the main cabinet. It’s so nice having access to all drawers and the feeling of seeing it done. I’ve been worried that I would like how some of the pulls don’t lone up because the drawer sizes made them staggered but I actually don’t mind it.

62dfb9f12a761403dfebc91f98965ebd.jpg

a155c0ec1488668a5642d845563367f2.jpg

Have a great week.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom