more then enought for what i need,at 20C duty is 100% around 130A,at 40 C 100% at 90A,cant ask for more + it can use tig as well
Tools from the old world
- Thread starter Monte
- Start date
more then enought for what i need,at 20C duty is 100% around 130A,at 40 C 100% at 90A,cant ask for more + it can use tig as well
Laro13
Well-known member
When I was young, we learnt it a bit different: "Guten tag, ich heiße .... , wie heiß bist du?"
N.I.
Well-known member
A Few of the tools I have received the last few weeks.
Eclipse, England, centre punches and junior hacksaw.
Will / Harry P pliers
Bahco Combination Square - its not bad for the money. Moore and Wright satin chrome rule (mm on the other side).
Benzomatic Gas soldering iron and Starrett knife.
Koken mini ratchet
Which may not be that mini.
(compared to 1/2 long handle and a 1/4" ratchet.)
Eclipse, England, centre punches and junior hacksaw.
Will / Harry P pliers
Bahco Combination Square - its not bad for the money. Moore and Wright satin chrome rule (mm on the other side).
Benzomatic Gas soldering iron and Starrett knife.
Koken mini ratchet
Which may not be that mini.
(compared to 1/2 long handle and a 1/4" ratchet.)
purpurite
Well-known member
These showed up in the mail last night... have to say, I sold my Snap-On ratcheting bit driver to buy this, and again, thoroughly not disappointed in any way. Outstanding quality, fit & finish. Picked up some different bits, too, to make the 10 in the handle exactly what I would want to use at any given time. Expensive, sure, but I already bought one once that I didn't particularly like, and I don't want to do it again.
A+
PB Swiss addiction activated.
A+
PB Swiss addiction activated.
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shoturtle
Well-known member
which store did you get the bottle opener form?
N.I.
Well-known member
Also a used but like new Starrett made in Jedburgh, Scotland, 25-50 Micrometer
( unfortunately the previous owner engraved his name in it)
A Klann Dial Caliper
It has no brand anywhere on it so I assume it is rebranded. Does anyone who who makes them?
( unfortunately the previous owner engraved his name in it)
A Klann Dial Caliper
It has no brand anywhere on it so I assume it is rebranded. Does anyone who who makes them?
purpurite
Well-known member
superautobacs
Well-known member
In just 24 hours this thread turned opened up several more pages--amazing.
What a myriad of topics discussed during that time....I wan't to say a lot, but I don't know where to begin......let me just say that this thread has been and will continue to be a very entertaining read.
N.I.,
nice Ko-ken 3/4" drive ratchet. Not that I need one, but it's so
worthyshoturtle
Well-known member
Hay at least the thread is back to the main subject. Tools of the old world.
N.I.
Well-known member
There is method in the madness.
This thread has been slowing lately, and the 'Show your new tool arrivals' thread is catching up. It's never a bad thing to liven things up.
It is an older one with 24 teeth but still nice. The extension is a hollow tube, with a wider than normal diameter which makes it a bit lighter. I think you need one.
This thread has been slowing lately, and the 'Show your new tool arrivals' thread is catching up. It's never a bad thing to liven things up.
N.I.,
nice Ko-ken 3/4" drive ratchet. Not that I need one, but it's so
It is an older one with 24 teeth but still nice. The extension is a hollow tube, with a wider than normal diameter which makes it a bit lighter. I think you need one.
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shoturtle
Well-known member
NI how many snap on dual 80 or screw drivers can you look at. The show your new tools is mostly the same thing over and over again. At least with this thread you have allot of different things coming up. 
That SAM round head 120t made in France was really nice. I may have to track down a 1/4 and 3/8 drive. You do not see that cool stuff really posted on the show your new tools. Most there think that only Gearwrench has a 120t ratchet. And if it does show up there, it is most likely a member that post here regularly.
That SAM round head 120t made in France was really nice. I may have to track down a 1/4 and 3/8 drive. You do not see that cool stuff really posted on the show your new tools. Most there think that only Gearwrench has a 120t ratchet. And if it does show up there, it is most likely a member that post here regularly.
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Phog Allen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 7, 2009
- Messages
- 83
Apex, you are killing me with that PB Swiss stuff. I have always sworn that ratcheting/mutli-bit/whatever you want to call these drivers, were nothing but gimmicks. I mean, they had to be, yeah? I swear between your posts and the Toollady website I am going to be completely converted. Well at least in the "hey, I have one of those" category. I really want their ratcheting 1/4" square drive handle as well. I am probably going to be ribbed for saying it but there is something almost elegant about PB Swiss tools.
N.I.
Well-known member
NI how many snap on dual 80 or screw drivers can you look at. The show your new tools is mostly the same thing over and over again. At least with this thread you have allot of different things coming up.
Ahh, but you are forgetting the choice of handle colours. And sure, all they have to do is bring out a new colour and this thread is done for.
purpurite
Well-known member
I admit, I was skeptical, and a bit unnerved about the price of some of the PB Swiss items. Thought I have no problem paying for something if it's worth it, a few of my recent "best of the US" purchases haven't been what I would call satisfying.
Recent additions to my tools include Hazet, NWS, Felo and a couple of other Euro brands. On a whim, I started looking into PB Swiss items and was almost instantly smitten with everything I found. After a brief conversation with Barb (ToolLady.com), I made my first purchase. I would have to say, this Insider 3 ratchet is without a doubt, the single nicest tool I own (and we're not talking about a tool set that I started 3 months ago). And Barb is absolutely fantastic to work with. I wish she carried other tool brands, too.
I love the Felo drivers that I have, but every time I pick up this PB Swiss Insider ratchet, it makes me consider selling the Felos to replace with PB Swiss versions. I'm thoroughly impressed with the PB quality. I want more.
The SAM catalogue is drool-worthy. Prices seem very good as well. They don't seem to be in much of a hurry to sell their tools though if the speed at which they respond to phone/email queries is anything to go by
Bogdan M.
Well-known member
It's true, but also true for any brand.
You are probably right, but Gedore, Stahlwille or Hazet don't make a lot of poor quality tools. In their case, poor quality is a rare exception.
I am very satisfied with german tools, but I am sure that there are some tools that are not so good.
I am so Old World that I would probably enjoy a W124 very much.
I rather not. I don't know if I could learn German, so Dutch would be almost impossible.
Hi and Tjena, Tjofrasse..
I think we are confusing things up a little here, because we are trying to describe spoken sounds with normal letters. This is not possible to do, because in example "y" is pronounced as german "ü" like in übermeister in swedish and danish, but like in "why" in english. So you are correct in your assumbtions when your reference is the swedish use of the letters...
There do exist a special set of characters, mostly used in dictonaries, but im not sure where to find them on my keyboard
...............................Call it penance for my part in the recent debate; Today I went outside in the snow and wind to work on my car's brakes, and I used.... a German tool!
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But also some Britool:
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And of course Facom:
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So car-repair gurus; The reason for today's work is the FL brake was dragging quite badly. Removed the caliper today, seated the piston all the way home (piston and caliper both appear to move feeely) and reinstalled. The worst of the problem seems to have gone, but it seems the FL is still dragging more than the FR - twenty minutes easy drive and the the FL is piping hot while the FR is just warm. Is this just fairly common or am I missing something?
Motorcycles are so much easier
View media item 27987
But also some Britool:
View media item 27989
And of course Facom:
View media item 27988
So car-repair gurus; The reason for today's work is the FL brake was dragging quite badly. Removed the caliper today, seated the piston all the way home (piston and caliper both appear to move feeely) and reinstalled. The worst of the problem seems to have gone, but it seems the FL is still dragging more than the FR - twenty minutes easy drive and the the FL is piping hot while the FR is just warm. Is this just fairly common or am I missing something?
Motorcycles are so much easier
So car-repair gurus; The reason for today's work is the FL brake was dragging quite badly. Removed the caliper today, seated the piston all the way home (piston and caliper both appear to move feeely) and reinstalled. The worst of the problem seems to have gone, but it seems the FL is still dragging more than the FR - twenty minutes easy drive and the the FL is piping hot while the FR is just warm. Is this just fairly common or am I missing something?
Motorcycles are so much easier
First: Nice old world tools, and this is somewhat off topic....let´s call it old world repair...
Motorcycle brakes are just the same, but OK, there´s only one frontbrake
There are two possible problems: a) Your FR brake is contaminated from oil, and hence not braking as much as the left one... or b) your FL is sticking (the piston will not retract/stop pressing as it should). If you lift the front end of your car, you should be able to rotate the wheels and feel if any brake is sticky.
How did the brake pads look? If they show un-even wear (skewed) they tend to stick. Copper paste on the back and sides of the pads also prevent sticky action (but you don´t want it on the frontside
) I had the same problem on my old Rangie´s rear brakes, it was a combination of un-even wear and rusted pistons. Since new calipers was very reasonably priced, and I was late for MOT, new calipers and pads was the cure...Other reasons could be collapsed brake hoses (had this problem once) or air in the FR brake. A loose wheel bearing can also cause problems, but again, you can feel this with the front end raised.
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First: Nice old world tools, and this is somewhat off topic....let´s call it old world repair...
Motorcycle brakes are just the same, but OK, there´s only one frontbrake
There are two possible problems: a) Your FR brake is contaminated from oil, and hence not braking as much as the left one... or b) your FL is sticking (the piston will not retract/stop pressing as it should). If you lift the front end of your car, you should be able to rotate the wheels and feel if any brake is sticky.
How did the brake pads look? If they show un-even wear (skewed) they tend to stick. Copper paste on the back and sides of the pads also prevent sticky action (but you don´t want it on the frontside
Other reasons could be collapsed brake hoses (had this problem once) or air in the FR brake. A loose wheel bearing can also cause problems, but again, you can feel this with the front end raised.
Cheers. Pads and disks are good - I replaced them with quality OE replacements (Brembo) when I got this car about a year ago. I used copper paste, red grease and silicon grease on everything that calls for it at that time. I think a new caliper might be worth a shot - but not until the weather warms up a little now
Hey guys, how old are we talking here? I got a bunch of old Starrett tools from my grandpa. Not sure what year they were made, but they're all in good shape.
More pictures here > http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183679&highlight=starrett
They are for sale if anyone's interested
More pictures here > http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=183679&highlight=starrett
They are for sale if anyone's interested
BrokewrenchLS1
Well-known member
So car-repair gurus; The reason for today's work is the FL brake was dragging quite badly. Removed the caliper today, seated the piston all the way home (piston and caliper both appear to move feeely) and reinstalled. The worst of the problem seems to have gone, but it seems the FL is still dragging more than the FR - twenty minutes easy drive and the the FL is piping hot while the FR is just warm. Is this just fairly common or am I missing something?
Motorcycles are so much easier
Is the wheel itself hot? If so, to me that points at the hub being bad, and the excess friction causing the entire assembly to heat up during driving.
OK. I've tried this idea for an entire day. IT *****!
Once one has a voice, it's hard to just listen.
So back to business:
A simple request from everyone who has a moment: We need a good set of pump pliers, 200mm-250mm. COO and marque not important.
Please share with us what you do and don't like about whatever you have used or had experience with. Include photos if possible.
Thanks. Good to be back!
I haven't got any yet, but it seems Knipex Cobras are a popular choice. Pretty good value (at least on this side of the channel) as well. I have the pliers-wrench and really like them - I've been meaning to order some Cobras.
shoturtle
Well-known member
Glad you came back Angoo
I have 2 pairs of Wiha 250mm, they do not get as much attention as Knipex or NWS, but they are very well made in germany. Depending on how tight the area is, I will used the larger jaw or smaller jaw pump plier. If I have plenty of room, I bring out my 300mm plier wrench from knipex.
I have 2 pairs of Wiha 250mm, they do not get as much attention as Knipex or NWS, but they are very well made in germany. Depending on how tight the area is, I will used the larger jaw or smaller jaw pump plier. If I have plenty of room, I bring out my 300mm plier wrench from knipex.
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No, the wheel isn't heating up, and no other signs of a dodgy bearing. The symptoms were improved with today's work, so I guess I have to rebuild or replace the caliper.
Glad you came back Angoo
I have 2 pairs of Wiha 250mm, they do not get as much attention as Knipex or NWS, but they are very well made in germany. Depending on how tight the area is, I will used the larger jaw or smaller jaw pump plier. If I have plenty of room, I bring out my 300mm plier wrench from knipex.
I'm being a bit lazy in asking rather than looking, but will new ones be the same or made in Vietnam now (and possibly different)?
shoturtle
Well-known member
all the ones I have seen in Germany form Wiha, are made in germany still. Even their basic sets. Not sure if they are NOS or not. The SROV might be for asia and north american markets.
Interesting. I thought I'd read on here that they did all their pliers manufacturing in Vietnam now. I'm pretty sure that at least the basic line that's available in the UK is made there.
shoturtle
Well-known member
Not sure, I went to a big box, and all their wiha basic were made in Germany. I have seen comment for US and Canadian members commenting they got SROV wiha. Not sure if they are in Germany yet.
shoturtle
Well-known member
My one and only.
DUSS P 60 Rotary Hammer.
The best that money can buy.
Schöne Bohrhammer
i personally use the 3,25mm electrodes most often so the 130A/100% duty cycle is pretty good and enough ! So i think you choosed the right welder ! Anti stick is nice too... I´m looking for a inverter stick welder too but don´t know yet which one to choose.....there are too many.... at the welding class we had "Rehm Tiger" welders....
lolWhen I was young, we learnt it a bit different: "Guten tag, ich heiße .... , wie heiß bist du?"
oh oh..... it would be cheaper if you would start with crack or cocaine
somebody in asia i guess
the boys in the garage use Cobras....me too....
the Wiha with the red/black handles are made by NWS:
http://shop.nws-tools.de/index.php/...nzange-maxi-mx/wasserpumpenzange-maxi-mx.html
.... but discontinued from Wiha since a while as well as the other german pliers bought from Orbis or so.
don´t know about the pliers, socket sets are from Stahlwille + Koken , wrenches Stahlwille, measuring tools from Mitutoyo, Mahr + BMI...
very nice !!My one and only.
DUSS P 60 Rotary Hammer.
The best that money can buy.
I´m dreaming of a P 26 C....
...one day .... Wiha bought a plier factory in vietnam from a large vietnamese steel manufacturer, thats when they started their own manufacturing. Before the (german) pliers were supplied but Wiha want to do something on their own and bring their own ideas and designs into the market. They didn´t want to give their ideas and "know how" to a competitor so they bought the pliers factory from the steel factory who wanted to get rid of it to concentrate on manufacturing steel. So the pliers are forged/made there as well as some bits and bit blanks (impact bits e.g.) which are then finished in germany.
shoturtle
Well-known member
monte,
Do you know who makes the swiss wiha vde pliers?
Do you know who makes the swiss wiha vde pliers?
A few months back I bought Wiha circlip pliers on ebay here (UK), expecting Vietnam (or at least no COO), but they turned out to be Germany. I assumed they were just old stock, but maybe not then
Unfotunately there are no stockists anywhere close to me (that I'm aware of) to go check it out.
Edit: I'm too slow typing and missed Monte's post above while writing mine.
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shoturtle
Well-known member
so they only produce the red and black and basic in vietnam only. Strange they did not just make their pliers in Switzerland instead, if they did not want to have a supplier like nws or knipex.
These are my Basics -made in Germany (or just finished in Germany?).
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