HD is a 7mm hex-bolster shaft to 6mm standard shaft so the angle is different. I think they market the 7mm has "Heavy Duty" so it looks pretty burly compared to a standard. Good news is the guy has all of the choices now
Tools from the old world
- Thread starter Monte
- Start date
HD is a 7mm hex-bolster shaft to 6mm standard shaft so the angle is different. I think they market the 7mm has "Heavy Duty" so it looks pretty burly compared to a standard. Good news is the guy has all of the choices now
This thread is for all tools "from the old world" like tools from Europe, but you can also post all tools from outside the USA here. (If you want)
some pictures of my tool collection
Wiha and Bahco (Belzer ) reversible screwdrivers
Wiha PZ and PH offset drivers
Turnus locking pliers (made by scangrip
Facom locking pliers
A brush and the newer version of the famous "PUK" saw
Rennsteig screw extractors
Rennsteig punches w/ handles
Matador 1/4" Torx sockets
You might know the Bluepoint version, heres the Bahco answer
A collection of Carolus (Gedore) sockets
Gedore pliers
A Leinen vice
Heuer Front vise
a Merkle Mig welder
peep what we have here
AC DK20HLQ
in around the world have this tools i think
upgrading
Well-known member
Tres bon !
HCNDM
Well-known member
Tres bon !
Let me know how the tips hold up? Look like the Old made in France facom?
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"Bost" I believe.
Excellent tips, well made and last long. I have some over 20 years old and they are by far my most used drivers for electrical work. Still fine.
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chrissalas1
Well-known member
For auto garage abuse the tips aren't holding well.
jessysirazvan
Well-known member
I'm so sick and tired of pics from bling bling, shiny tools for the showcase !
Hard and heavy use, for what they are made !
Oh MAN this Knipex is still alive? appears to be burned or he was plugged into hydrochloric acid ?
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HCNDM
Well-known member
Thrift store find (thrift stores near me never have tools of any kind)
I actually use these quite a bit for woodworking. I find them quicker and more accurate than a tape measure.
All my modern ones are plastic and a meter long. This is 50 cm.
Looks like a giveaway from a wood supply place in Rotterdam.
It's a European hardwood with brass fittings and faux leather case.
The very best bit:
It's made in Holland
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I actually use these quite a bit for woodworking. I find them quicker and more accurate than a tape measure.
All my modern ones are plastic and a meter long. This is 50 cm.
Looks like a giveaway from a wood supply place in Rotterdam.
It's a European hardwood with brass fittings and faux leather case.
The very best bit:
It's made in Holland
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Hitachi hammer drill bit (Made in Germany)
WGB 'Hot Force' combo wrench, very very interesting shape (for example the "conical" open end) of this tool and in some situations the absolutely right tool for me as a plumber.
Garden shoes
Portwest S5 safety wellington boots
WGB 'Hot Force' combo wrench, very very interesting shape (for example the "conical" open end) of this tool and in some situations the absolutely right tool for me as a plumber.
Garden shoes
Portwest S5 safety wellington boots
HCNDM
Well-known member
Wondering who makes that hitachi drill for them... certainly looks like a good masonry bit
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dutchgray
Well-known member
Those WGB wrenches look cool and also useful.
jessysirazvan
Well-known member
German and Japanese steel
Burgvogel, Wüsthof, Shun Kai, Miyabi, and lastly Yoshihiro. I have Güde bread knife on order.
Hi Hautpot how do you rate "Wüsthof classic" beside "Zwilling professional S".
I ask because Shun kai and other japanese knife are too expensive for me
HCNDM
Well-known member
On the more affordable side of Japanese knives you could try global. Great steel better price if you buy the sets of three.
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jessysirazvan
Well-known member
I am also interested in good Japanese knives and how to get one in "good price".
On another note, I prefer a knife with larger blade of 180 - 190 mm/ 7-8 inches.
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HCNDM
Well-known member
All mine are Japanese. I like the higher hardness which in combination with water stones makes for extreme razor sharpness.
My favorite two are Kai Shun. That said as mentioned they come at a hefty price. I put away 35 euros a month for a year to buy one.
I have a couple of Sakai Takayuki. They are a little cheaper than Kai and can occasionally be had online for a hefty discount. I paid less than 200 euro for my Santoku, officer petty, and nakiri. That said prices vary and are certainly higher at the moment.
All of the above are folded steel which raises the price a bit.
There are numerous Japanese brands out there that do carbon steel blades (often referred to as blue or white paper steel) which come in a lot cheaper. I have a yaganiba by Togiro (sushi knife) that was 40 euro. Not as pretty but an excellent blade.
All of the above are knives that require extra care and are not stainless.
Like I said I think you'd be hard pressed to find a better knife than a global. The global santoku and officers knife g201 set is about 120 euro.
As to where to buy... that's a hard one. I see prices on good knives vary globally by great margins.
This is my go to in holland:
http://www.knivesandtools.nl/nl/ct/japanse-messen.htm
I have a couple of their house brand eden Japanese knives and for the price they are really good too.
I can't see if they have an English version of their site on my cellphone.
Edit: they do
http://www.knivesandtools.com/en/ct/japanese-knives.htm
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Tools working
Very happy with all items however the Stahwille ratchet 512QRN 60 teeth stack while I was under the car undoing some stuborn bolts and had to give it a couple of knocks on the floor. I will do a test again and if stacks again I return it.
On the other hand the Stahlwille sockets are amazingly tight fit on the bolts especially when compared to Halfords
Very happy with the classic facom 3/8 ratchet 72 teeth which was amazing and smooth as butter after the initial break in. I have to attest after being under the car for more than 2 hours that the high number of teeth is a must. I have an older ratchet probably about 30-40 teeth that I retire after this encounter.
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The Hazet light is very good for the size and features however I would recommend a full size lamp for proper lighting. For under and inside the car this is the best I have had until now and better it is for the price!
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I have this sealey set of 3/8 bits Torx, XZN, Allen etc. from Sealey and have used on many stubborn bolts and never failed me. I believe that the tolerances are not as good let's say like Stahlwille but they do a good job.
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SGS trolley jack - very nice low entry and sturdy. Once I left it holding the car for a couple of days and it did not loose any height. It takes quite a few strokes to reach the max for the price and rare use though is excellent.
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Very happy with all items however the Stahwille ratchet 512QRN 60 teeth stack while I was under the car undoing some stuborn bolts and had to give it a couple of knocks on the floor. I will do a test again and if stacks again I return it.
On the other hand the Stahlwille sockets are amazingly tight fit on the bolts especially when compared to Halfords
Very happy with the classic facom 3/8 ratchet 72 teeth which was amazing and smooth as butter after the initial break in. I have to attest after being under the car for more than 2 hours that the high number of teeth is a must. I have an older ratchet probably about 30-40 teeth that I retire after this encounter.
View media item 63977
View media item 63982
The Hazet light is very good for the size and features however I would recommend a full size lamp for proper lighting. For under and inside the car this is the best I have had until now and better it is for the price!
View media item 63981
I have this sealey set of 3/8 bits Torx, XZN, Allen etc. from Sealey and have used on many stubborn bolts and never failed me. I believe that the tolerances are not as good let's say like Stahlwille but they do a good job.
View media item 63983
View media item 63980
SGS trolley jack - very nice low entry and sturdy. Once I left it holding the car for a couple of days and it did not loose any height. It takes quite a few strokes to reach the max for the price and rare use though is excellent.
View media item 63978
View media item 63979
HCNDM
Well-known member
Tools working
Very happy with all items however the Stahwille ratchet 512QRN 60 teeth stack while I was under the car undoing some stuborn bolts and had to give it a couple of knocks on the floor. I will do a test again and if stacks again I return it.
On the other hand the Stahlwille sockets are amazingly tight fit on the bolts especially when compared to Halfords
Very happy with the classic facom 3/8 ratchet 72 teeth which was amazing and smooth as butter after the initial break in. I have to attest after being under the car for more than 2 hours that the high number of teeth is a must. I have an older ratchet probably about 30-40 teeth that I retire after this encounter.
I know a lot of people don't like the round head ratchets like the facom classic.
I love mine. They just keep going
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Maybe some people prefer changing direction by the lever. However, after tried this ratchet is my to go one because it seems strong and I have the 435 QRN if a tight place comes to play.
I will post a few ratchets I have at some point.
can´t see the label...
]
Miele still makes all stuff in Germany. On the other hand Bosch is now mostly Romania, for Europe at least.
Isn't that demolition hammer a bit overkill for this task? I mean you are not chiseling concrete.
jessysirazvan
Well-known member
I find near to my house this 2 knife one chef knife 7inch(18cm) and one santoku 6 inch(16cm)in promo for the 40th anniversary of zwilling for 34€ each.I think is a good price.For me maybe is more useful chef knife than santoku but maybe a chef can confirm that said.
The price in Netherland from what i've seen are about the same as here in Italy.
here link
http://www.bottegadelcoltello.it/mo...quale/per-trancio-e-battuti/cuoco-max--50.asp
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Miskin
Well-known member
Not yet but in time will do. I didn't bought this hammer for a single job.
Thanks for your opinion ! Maybe i´ll look out for a set
Look for the satin ones,i guess they would be your first choice anyway
Gedore with L boxx from Sortimo - all directly from Germany
Attachments
jessysirazvan
Well-known member
An hour ago
The blade and handle are perfectly balanced, blade is sharp as a razor and plastic handle is pleasant to the touch. The only inconvenience is when cut the vegetables stick on blade.For 34€ this knife is perfect
The blade and handle are perfectly balanced, blade is sharp as a razor and plastic handle is pleasant to the touch. The only inconvenience is when cut the vegetables stick on blade.For 34€ this knife is perfect
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upgrading
Well-known member
Here is an interesting item.
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1364&groupID=1450&artID=34960
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1216&L=1&page=art_detail&parentID=1364&groupID=1450&artID=34960
HCNDM
Well-known member
An hour ago
The blade and handle are perfectly balanced, blade is sharp as a razor and plastic handle is pleasant to the touch. The only inconvenience is when cut the vegetables stick on blade.For 34€ this knife is perfect
Zwilling makes a great knife that lasts a lifetime. At that price you can't go wrong.
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jessysirazvan
Well-known member
Thanks now i'm looking for a decent knife sharpening stone on amazon.Have some brand that suggest me to buy
jessysirazvan
Well-known member
Stahlwille 7 and 8 1/4" nr.10 on order
Gedore 108 UNI Protective hand guard
Gedore 108 UNI Protective hand guard
HCNDM
Well-known member
As with knives good stones can get real expensive real quick. I use single grit stones from 100, 500, 800, 1000, 2000, 3000, 5000, 8000, 10000
On touch up I skip all stones under 2000. Sharpening takes a while this way and only a true sharpening snob will notice the difference. For everyone else:
I would say get a dual grit stone (water) of 1000 / 3000. The trick with a stone like this is to keep touching up regularly. If you let the blade go truly dull or damage it you are going to need a coarser stone to bring it back.
Japanese waterstone is your search term.
The cheaper stones don't necessarily sharpen worse but are much softer and wear quicker. So replace more often. I buy the for axes and chisels and they last me a couple of years. Cheaper stones tend to be a smaller too. Larger is easier.
If I had to advise just one stone it would be this one:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/s/ref=i...010-9798809?k=naniwa+1000+3000&sprefix=naniwa
It's the same brand as my single grit stones and excellent but more intended for the average user that wants a sharp knife. It's a large hard synthetic stone which means the wear is low and it doesn't need to soak in water an hour before use. Simply wet and go.
As to price this is probably the at the cheaper end of the really good stones but still expensive.
It's just like tools, some are happy with craftsmen and some want snap on and some want PB Swiss. Naniwa stones are wiha going on PB Swiss. The one I linked is entry level but will get your knife shaving sharp everytime.
I also chose this one because it lasts and I like tools that last.
I could write an essay on waterstone sharpening. If you need more advice feel free to pm me.
This is a cheaper alternative that would work fine too but smaller and will wear faster:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/d/B00YM...X236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterstone+1000+3000
Note: this cheaper type stone needs about half and hour to an hour soak in water before use.
Finally just like old fashioned razor blades always strop your knife after sharpening on a piece of leather with some fine grit polishing compound (5000 or finer) on it. This finishing touch makes all the difference.
Edit:
Had to wait till I was home to do a pic of a cheap stone vs naniwa. Same age (2 years) roughly same and similar use:
The grits are not quite the same but close enough.
The naniwa in the background is the 1000 / 3000 linked above
When a stone wears hollow like that it becomes less good for a flat grind but excellent for a convex like on an axe or cleaver
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garfieldzzz
Well-known member
You can easy flaten it with a granite tile and wet sand paper -> necessary to sharpen wood chissels and knives
here you can find some additional information and plenty sharpening tools
https://www.dictum.com/en/expert-knowledge/sharpening-devices
I own a 1000/5000 and a 300/1000 stone (which does the job well for knives)
here you can find some additional information and plenty sharpening tools
https://www.dictum.com/en/expert-knowledge/sharpening-devices
I own a 1000/5000 and a 300/1000 stone (which does the job well for knives)
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HCNDM
Well-known member
Agreed.
I like waterstones but they are simply not practical when camping which is when I revert to a spyderco sharpmaker if I have a vehicle or a falkniven dc4 diamond ceramic stone when on foot.
I have seen excellent results achieved with a tile And varying grits of sandpaper. But also belt sanders, bench grinders, cardboard with polishing paste, and sandstone blocks.
There are so many methods that work well. It's a question of finding what works for you and a lot of practice.
Don't practice on your zwilling. Practice in something cheap and disposable.
The only thing that is true for all methods is to go from coarse to fine!
Stropping with leather is always advisable because it removes the micro burr. It's also pretty much the cheapest finishing method. Any piece of old leather and some polishing paste will do.
I may have to admit to sharp edge disease at this stage. I love sharpening and keeping tools whether they are chisels or kitchen knives razor edged.
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If I may chime in here with my thoughts on the knives/sharpening...
Jessie; The Zwilling knife you bought will serve you well! Like HCNDM, I too have several hand made Japanese knives and use water stones to sharpen those. However, my preference for everyday use is a knife similar to the one you bought. Softer German stainless steel has its advantages. For sharpening the German blades I use a simple honing steel, about 10" long. If you take care of the knives that should keep you and your knife happy for a long time. I use my knives daily and only "sharpen" about once a year, But I "steel" them after each use.
Some love the process of waterstone sharpening and spending a fair amount of time obtaining that perfect edge. Me? Not so much anymore...
I love my asian knives but they require quite a bit more care, the harder steel tends to lend itself to chipping so extreme care must be taken or you can damage a blade fairly easily.
If you treat your knife well, it will serve you well for many years.
-Never put in automatic dishwasher
-Always hand wash and dry after every use
-Steel the blade after every use
-Never use a knife cut on hard surfaces such as metal, glass, ceramic, or tile. End on End hard wood cutting board is best here.
Enjoy your new Knife!
Jessie; The Zwilling knife you bought will serve you well! Like HCNDM, I too have several hand made Japanese knives and use water stones to sharpen those. However, my preference for everyday use is a knife similar to the one you bought. Softer German stainless steel has its advantages. For sharpening the German blades I use a simple honing steel, about 10" long. If you take care of the knives that should keep you and your knife happy for a long time. I use my knives daily and only "sharpen" about once a year, But I "steel" them after each use.
Some love the process of waterstone sharpening and spending a fair amount of time obtaining that perfect edge. Me? Not so much anymore...
I love my asian knives but they require quite a bit more care, the harder steel tends to lend itself to chipping so extreme care must be taken or you can damage a blade fairly easily.
If you treat your knife well, it will serve you well for many years.
-Never put in automatic dishwasher
-Always hand wash and dry after every use
-Steel the blade after every use
-Never use a knife cut on hard surfaces such as metal, glass, ceramic, or tile. End on End hard wood cutting board is best here.
Enjoy your new Knife!
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WGB 'Hot Force' combo wrench, very very interesting shape (for example the "conical" open end) of this tool and in some situations the absolutely right tool for me as a plumber.
Very cool product ! Would you be able to show us a bit more your best plumbing tools as well ?
jessysirazvan
Well-known member
As with knives good stones can get real expensive real quick. I use single grit stones from 100, 500, 800, 1000, 2000, 3000, 5000, 8000, 10000
On touch up I skip all stones under 2000. Sharpening takes a while this way and only a true sharpening snob will notice the difference. For everyone else:
I would say get a dual grit stone (water) of 1000 / 3000. The trick with a stone like this is to keep touching up regularly. If you let the blade go truly dull or damage it you are going to need a coarser stone to bring it back.
Japanese waterstone is your search term.
The cheaper stones don't necessarily sharpen worse but are much softer and wear quicker. So replace more often. I buy the for axes and chisels and they last me a couple of years. Cheaper stones tend to be a smaller too. Larger is easier.
If I had to advise just one stone it would be this one:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/s/ref=i...010-9798809?k=naniwa+1000+3000&sprefix=naniwa
It's the same brand as my single grit stones and excellent but more intended for the average user that wants a sharp knife. It's a large hard synthetic stone which means the wear is low and it doesn't need to soak in water an hour before use. Simply wet and go.
As to price this is probably the at the cheaper end of the really good stones but still expensive.
It's just like tools, some are happy with craftsmen and some want snap on and some want PB Swiss. Naniwa stones are wiha going on PB Swiss. The one I linked is entry level but will get your knife shaving sharp everytime.
I also chose this one because it lasts and I like tools that last.
I could write an essay on waterstone sharpening. If you need more advice feel free to pm me.
This is a cheaper alternative that would work fine too but smaller and will wear faster:
https://www.amazon.it/gp/aw/d/B00YM...X236_SY340_QL65&keywords=waterstone+1000+3000
Note: this cheaper type stone needs about half and hour to an hour soak in water before use.
Finally just like old fashioned razor blades always strop your knife after sharpening on a piece of leather with some fine grit polishing compound (5000 or finer) on it. This finishing touch makes all the difference.
Edit:
Had to wait till I was home to do a pic of a cheap stone vs naniwa. Same age (2 years) roughly same and similar use:
The grits are not quite the same but close enough.
The naniwa in the background is the 1000 / 3000 linked above
When a stone wears hollow like that it becomes less good for a flat grind but excellent for a convex like on an axe or cleaver
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Thank you a lot to everyone for the advice you gave it to me.
Me too I heard many good things about Naniwa stone.
Edit:
I think I will buy here where I found cheaper as in Italy a half price
https://www.amazon.de/gp/aw/d/B000R40324/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2SJAIZLTFG2LU
Thank you again to all.
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Great stuff!
I think if you get rid off that sofa you may be able to finish the job faster
