alwaysFlOoReD
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Yep. Well, not dirt. Crushed asphalt.
Track saw quandry
- Thread starter Walkers
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nutsandbolts
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Yes can concur, have had the trusty TS55 Festool and have the MT55 Mafell. They are both great but the Mafell has more grunt Similar to my TS75,it's a lovely tool.
So true! But really, should be no shocker to anyone on GJ. But a point we have to keep making because some folks here think of the price of tools as a loss or a frivolity. I don’t think I own a tool that hasn’t paid for itself several times over.
Here in PA, the cost of labor is a bit staggering compared to my wages or even the wages of the people doing the work. Anything I do that’s DIY, is amazing savings.
We are also struggling with a belief among some tradespeople that customers who have more money, should pay more money for their services. There is a famous carpenter YouTuber who has said this. This is having an impact on our housing market. Here, kitchen makeovers over $100,000 are not atypical. Bathrooms, nothing special in my opinion could be $50,000.
jar944
Well-known member
Perfect time to upgrade to a line bore from the lr32. Even something as small as a 7 spindle.
I am not a commercial shop. Have no need of one. Just need a fuckton of built ins needed for my shop/shouse and future house and future green house/shop. And new cabinets for my mom. I could probably find a used line bore for not much more than the LR32….but the space requirements.
My shop is only 36x48 with an additional 12x20 shed and I have to shoehorn in wood working, automotive, small engine, metal working, paint area, an office, a full bathroom, and a 20x36 living area/kitchen (in a mezzanine).
jar944
Well-known member
Fair enough, though they don't take up that much space and if you get a hinge borer/press with a line bore head attachment its double duty.
Let's not get carried away! They are quite useful and I highly recommend buying one, but it won't totally replace a table saw.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
For making saw dust, I have a DeWalt, a Unisaw, a bandsaw, a sliding compound miter saw, a couple of skilsaws, a jig saw, multcrafter, as well as the Makita tracksaw. Each has it uses. Since I like using plywood , the track saw is very handy, it is near the top of the list. It shines in long cuts.
With the right MFT type table setup, a track saw is easier and safer than a table saw for many things. Not the best at ripping hardwoods (although the bigger ones can) or small cuts. Also can replace a miter saw for many things (definitely not all).
neophyte
Well-known member
A track saw is not a replacement for a tablesaw.
Reading comprehension? Or did I trip into Reddit?
rancherbill
Well-known member
What exactly, in a home shop, will a table saw do better than a track saw?
I have used a track and a table saw. There is only one thing in my mind that a table saw has a slight advantage. The rest go to track saw.
I have used a track and a table saw. There is only one thing in my mind that a table saw has a slight advantage. The rest go to track saw.
I think it’s more helpful to compare between the two tools equating price and space allowable. Some here compare $350 tracksaws with $3000 powermatics with out feed and extension tables and reach the genius conclusion the $3000 shop monument is superior.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
A table saw will do repeat cuts without resetting.
MFT type table with hinge and stops.
Numerator2142
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- Sep 16, 2023
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So I just picked up the corded Makita track saw and 2 tracks. So far I'm kinda unimpressed.
1 track is getting returned because it wasn't straight.
I spent 30 min trying to adjust the 90 deg stop to realize it'll probably never be consistent because of slop in the hinge.
The 45 deg stop set screw came falling out.
The 20 mm arbor is annoying because I bought the suggested 5/8" blade and it *kinda* fits so i didn't catch it at first, but it explains some of my poor initial cuts.
1 track is getting returned because it wasn't straight.
I spent 30 min trying to adjust the 90 deg stop to realize it'll probably never be consistent because of slop in the hinge.
The 45 deg stop set screw came falling out.
The 20 mm arbor is annoying because I bought the suggested 5/8" blade and it *kinda* fits so i didn't catch it at first, but it explains some of my poor initial cuts.
I don't own a track saw (yet) but believe a solid table saw would generally perform much better than a track saw in almost every way. Repeatable cuts on both sheet goods and lumber. Miter cuts (with appropriate miter fence or sled). Anything requiring a dado. Tenons and other intricate joinery. Index cuts (another version of repeatable). Cutting lids off boxes. Chess and cutting boards. Cutting a circle in plywood. Just to name a few off top of my head. With that said track saw is definitely on my wish list but I think I would use it mostly on job sites. Flooring, counter tops, Cutting doors to length, possibly stair and deck work for example trimming deck boards to final length etc.
Take a look at some of the British woodworkers along with the Dashboard videos to explore what a track saw can do. Doesn't negate a table saw though for me. But some of the UK/European folks get by without them. Of course, they are mostly building frameless cabinets.
A true European style sliding table saw is something I could never wrap my mind around. I can see how they would be very advantageous for sheet goods, but I have the track saw for that and I'm not in the business so I don't need volume. I couldn't wrap my head around small pieces on one of those. Thus I own a sawstop. Dados...I could cover with a Festool router on a track if I needed too, but small pieces? And straight line rips in hardwoods? Definitely western table saw for me.
My body is too beat to hell (thanks Army!) to want to wrestle with a large plywood pieces on a table saw.
A true European style sliding table saw is something I could never wrap my mind around. I can see how they would be very advantageous for sheet goods, but I have the track saw for that and I'm not in the business so I don't need volume. I couldn't wrap my head around small pieces on one of those. Thus I own a sawstop. Dados...I could cover with a Festool router on a track if I needed too, but small pieces? And straight line rips in hardwoods? Definitely western table saw for me.
My body is too beat to hell (thanks Army!) to want to wrestle with a large plywood pieces on a table saw.
This. Track saws are fantastic for breaking down sheet goods, for long accurate cuts, etc but can't really compare to a tablesaw for the types of things mentioned here.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I won't argue that a track saw can fully replace a table saw. But I do believe that for many people, a track saw could replace a table saw. Cutting tendons and lids off boxes is a task that most people will never do, but they are also tasks that could be done another way, if desired.
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jar944
Well-known member
For 6' to 12' long rips?
I love a track saw, but they work better in conjunction with a table saw than exclusively one or the other.
tjansson
Well-known member
I just got through putting up vertical shiplap siding on an addition. I had to make alot of custom widths from the 1x6" shiplap to make the seams fall in the right places for windows and corners. Rip a 12 footer to width, then 2 partial cuts at 90 degrees to each other to make the lap. Can't do that with a track saw.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
I built some cupboards out of that particle board covered termite barf . I did very good job of it, I might add. Man handling the sheets for accurate cuts was tricky. But that was 30 years ago, I no longer causally toss full sheets around. It takes a run of 20' feet to rip on lengthwise and a 52" rip fence for half a widthwise. I have a 3hp 10" Unisaw with a 52" Unifence. I also have a 10" DeWalt that cuts dead on square. DeWalts have something like 14 adjustments, a Unisaw, just the table and stops.
My new Makita tracksaw works fine, but it did require adjustment.
My new Makita tracksaw works fine, but it did require adjustment.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
The rip is easy, just need the right lengths of track. The 90's can be done with either an overcut from the back or undercutting and finishing with a hand saw/jigsaw.
A track saw may not be the easiest or fastest in every situation but it can do an awful lot
bpwoodworking
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An MFT table is ok, it’s nice for crosscutting accurately on a jobsite if you are planning to setup for a few days. They’re sort of flimsy and the accessories for it are sort of flimsy.
They don’t save your back for sheet goods and the goofy hinge is there to stab the material your working on a rip the edges off if you bump it.
They’re great if you don’t have a sliding tablesaw but they’re aggravating as heck if you do.
They don’t save your back for sheet goods and the goofy hinge is there to stab the material your working on a rip the edges off if you bump it.
They’re great if you don’t have a sliding tablesaw but they’re aggravating as heck if you do.
bpwoodworking
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Accuracy and precision increase speed considerably.
Everytime I set up a new machine to perform a task with greater precision and accuracy it increases the quality of my work and the speed at which I work.
One of the best things I did for my shop was setup a heavy cast iron chop saw to cut perfect 90 degrees every time, and then put a digital outfeed on it. The hours I have saved not fiddling around to match cuts has been work every penny of that saw.
Same applies here, if cutting things with a good track saw, you can straight line something on site. There is minimal downsude..
Everytime I set up a new machine to perform a task with greater precision and accuracy it increases the quality of my work and the speed at which I work.
One of the best things I did for my shop was setup a heavy cast iron chop saw to cut perfect 90 degrees every time, and then put a digital outfeed on it. The hours I have saved not fiddling around to match cuts has been work every penny of that saw.
Same applies here, if cutting things with a good track saw, you can straight line something on site. There is minimal downsude..
Firebrick43
Well-known member
A router base for the track and a router will cut the lap in one pass without trying to put a long board up on end thru a table saw.
Tenons the same way. I never use my tenon sled on the table saw any more. Dados are quick and easy as well.
Repeatable cuts are possible with a set of parallel guides. Not necessarily better than a table saw except in safety but easy never less
csp
Well-known member
Repeatable cuts, dados, rabbets, tenons, need I go on?
You're not using a table saw anywhere close to it's full capability if you're only cutting sheet goods into manageable sizes with it.
European craftsmen, who don’t have the shop space for stationary power tools, have cleverly developed a system that replaces stationary power tools including and especially the table saw for limited but common applications. The track saw is part of that system, but on its own is not a one for one swap for the table saw.
People can produce outstandingly high quality woodwork without table saws. North americans tend to have table saws because we have the space. Ask a kitchen builder in NYC about the best tool to rip a board accurately, you cannot have a serious discussion about this subject without addressing space, power, noise, and dust.
FWIW, I’m building a house myself in my spare time. I have very very few 110v powered tools and no 220v. Almost everything is battery powered. I only have one air tool left - the big construction nailer.
People can produce outstandingly high quality woodwork without table saws. North americans tend to have table saws because we have the space. Ask a kitchen builder in NYC about the best tool to rip a board accurately, you cannot have a serious discussion about this subject without addressing space, power, noise, and dust.
FWIW, I’m building a house myself in my spare time. I have very very few 110v powered tools and no 220v. Almost everything is battery powered. I only have one air tool left - the big construction nailer.
bpwoodworking
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They’re jobsite tools, great for site work. A kitchen builder working on a site for install might be equipped with track saws but I think they’re still rare to see. I never see any equipment that’s interesting, even on really high end jobs. Obviously someone is buying it and using it but it’s still fairly rare.
Many of them bring a tablesaw, it depends on the scale of the work. A project where they are doing a sizable renovation would have space for that.
I’m usually the only guy bringing this stuff on site, no one knows what Mafell is so that won’t get any comments but if I have any festool equipment everyone will break my chops for a few minutes then ask to see it.
Many of them bring a tablesaw, it depends on the scale of the work. A project where they are doing a sizable renovation would have space for that.
I’m usually the only guy bringing this stuff on site, no one knows what Mafell is so that won’t get any comments but if I have any festool equipment everyone will break my chops for a few minutes then ask to see it.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
Table saws rip very well, but they are not so hot for crosscut, any. Yeah, you can use sleds if you must cross cut plywood accurately. Who wants to ?
bpwoodworking
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Table saws are fantastic for cross cutting. Especially the type with a dedicated outrigger for crosscutting.
Old tool guy
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I bought a track about 10 yrs ago before the big popularity. It can with an adapter to fasten to the base of the saw. I bought a Hitachi saw, secured the base to it, got it aligned … and that saw is dedicated to track use. Easy to pop onto the track, and i know it’s always aligned. It does mean i have a saw that gets little use, but it’s no different than folks who have 3 or 4 routers with dedicated bits.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
See post # 67. I agree .
jar944
Well-known member
If the option is a sled on standard type cabinet saw or a track saw, I'll take the sled on the cabinet saw every time.
Now if it's a Powermatic 66 with a sled vs a Altendorf slider or striebig panel saw.. that's a different thing as well.
12’ might be pushing it, but 6-8’? Not a problem for me as my 9’ foot outfeed table is also a MFT style table.
Notice I say MFT “style.” Basically a long bench but with holes drill using the Parf guide system.
Or one make a cut table made via saw horse, 2x4s, and a sheet of foam (along with other variations).
Hell, I just used a track saw as an edge joiner on some big box 8ft 1x6s.
It’s not the end all be all…I’m not getting rid of my saw stop. But I did whack the rails off and make it a 36” version rather than 52.”
Watch some of Peter Millard, Peter Parf, and Dashboard’s YouTube videos.