Updated- Ultimate Welding Table (for me).

[tarbellb]

I posted a design exercise for my first table design here: -thanks for the feedback!

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=180758

After doing more research, taking ideas from this site, and moving into a larger workspace I found myself revamping the design.

Simpler, bigger, beefier!

Ive also decided to make it my main work surface, so its large. I do lots of wood working as well, so I will be covering this with a sheet of MDF when needed.

I really like the idea of the slated table, offers lots of possibilities for setup and is suited for F-clamps which im heavily invested in.

Quick specs:
_ 96" L x 48" W x 34" H

_ 5/8" x 5" x 48" Hot Rolled flat bars spaced 1.5" apart

_ 3" x 2" x .180" (3/16) wall tube frame *

_ *3.5" x 5lbs (1/4 web, 1.5 legs) C-Channel upper frame rails

_ 6" full locking casters (rated at 410lbs)

_ Bassick 6" floor locks

_ .5" x 2.5" Gr8 (x60) bolts spaced 1.5" off frame

_ total weight + ~1000lbs

Buying the steel tomorrow morning!

Pics of design, any feedback is welcome.

Bassick FB600 floor locks

 

[FishingMan]

I like it. Well thought out. Tell me about the floor locks. How do you engage them?

 

[Rated ///M]

subscribed. Please continue with your build pics!

 

[jimgood]

Wow. Those floor locks are pricey!

Did you skip some detail on the bolts that hold the surface plates to the rail? Can't tell what you have there but it doesn't look height adjustable.

 

[MarkG]

One thing I see happening with the 'slat' design is a lot of small odds and ends constantly falling through a gap! And how often are you going to take the time to actually 're-calibrate' a table like this anyway, with all those bolts to try to get it into one plane? Then, if it's not all exactly in the same plane, you'll be bumping a 'high plate' every time you try to slide something around. Something heavy will probably flex an individual plate down just enough to keep it from lining up with the others anyway!

It just seems kinda funny to see those monster I-beams underneath when the weak link is the forest of relatively spindly bolts sticking up holding up some narrow plates. Looks like a LOT of fiddling with bolts to bring everything into plane.

That's just my first impressions on this style of table-----obviously, YMMV depending on what you're doing with it, it has to be what you want or need, but I'd much rather have a solid plate with holes like the Blueco tables. The same or better versatility with much more stability and strength and no calibration to worry about.

 

[665.0coupe]

One thing I see is that the inside edge of the flange that you have your bolts going through will not be parallel to the outside edge like you have it modeled. This will make it difficult to bolt through properly. But, it might not matter really.

One thing I see happening with the 'slat' design is a lot of small odds and ends constantly falling through a gap! And how often are you going to take the time to actually 're-calibrate' a table like this anyway, with all those bolts to try to get it into one plane? Then, if it's not all exactly in the same plane, you'll be bumping a 'high plate' every time you try to slide something around. Something heavy will probably flex an individual plate down just enough to keep it from lining up with the others anyway!

It just seems kinda funny to see those monster I-beams underneath when the weak link is the forest of relatively spindly bolts sticking up holding up some narrow plates. Looks like a LOT of fiddling with bolts to bring everything into plane.

That's just my first impressions on this style of table-----obviously, YMMV depending on what you're doing with it, it has to be what you want or need, but I'd much rather have a solid plate with holes like the Blueco tables. The same or better versatility with much more stability and strength and no calibration to worry about.

I have plans to built a slat top table like this. I agree that it will be somewhat of a pain to set up initially, but my slats are 1"x6" flat bar. I'm not worried about bending them. The main reason I'm going to build a slat top table is because I got all of the steel for the top from my old employer for scrap price. 6 pieces of 1"x6" roughly 5 feet long each cost me about $50 total. This is much cheaper and easier for me than finding a comparable sized 3/4" or 1" plate for the top.

 

[tarbellb]

Hey thanks checking it out guys. Im awaiting the delivery as we speak.

To answer a few questions:

How do the floor locks engage? - Stepping on the footplate on the right side pops the spring and lowers a the foot.

Those floor locks are pricey!- Yeah they are! But luckily I found them at a metal yard/scraper and purchased all four for $60 total!. They are a little beat up, but super beefie.

Did you skip some detail on the bolts? - Yep, forgot to add the nut that would capture the bolt between the top leg of the C channel.
The bolts will be welded to the 5" flat bar, then the two nuts capture it, making adjustable.

MarkG- You have some valid points, but I have thought about them and still think I will prefer this design (slates). The idea behind the slats is I can slip my F-clamps between and clamp at any point on the table. If I had a bigger budget I would mimic what dr_clyde did with a solid top and holes w/ dedicated clamping hardware.

For things falling through, not really worried, most stuff on the table is large. And when I do need a solid surface, for say, small projects and cutting wood with my circ saw I will place a sheet of 1/2" MDF for protection.

Setup will be a bit of a exercise in patience, but once dialed should be dead nuts on for a while.

And about the "spindly" bolts, they are 1/2" (diameter) Grade 8 bolts rated at 120,000lbs tensile strength. They are likely the most robust thing about the table.

 

[Richard D]

I have a table I built with 5/8"x6" slats similar to yours, and another with a solid top and tapped holes. I like the slats better. Here's the build thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=225206

 

[tarbellb]

Good to hear Richard.

Question, have you seen any indication of flex with the 5/8" top? I see you have a larger gap between the middle supports then I do but less at the edges.

I tried to find the optimal dimensions of both the middle span and the cantilevered ends.

 

[Richard D]

No flex at all. I spaced the bolts so I can mount two plates end to end, hanging off either side of the table, effectively doubling the width.

 

[tarbellb]

A bit of a update.

Ive been picking away at this while doing some other jobs. But progress has been made.

The 5/8" steel plates are so burly, I think each one weighs ~35lbs each for a total of 641lbs (15 plates for the top and 3 extra for jigs).

The 3x2x3/16th wall tube was perfect, heavy, but not overkill. The 3.5" x 5lbs channel is nice, a little on the small side. And a little concern about the nut and bolt not aligning perfectly from the small angle?

But overall very happy.

A few issues-
_ the casters im using (6" Albion locking) have a huge swing radius, not allowing me to mount them near the floor locks like I planned.

_ mentioned above, C channel angle might prove annoying with alignment when tightening down the plates. It will work but not as square as id like.

_ had to drill my mounting holes pretty far out on the channel to allow enough clearance for a box wrench. Not really worried but again, probably should have gone a little beefier.

Um, pics.

All cut up

Clamped up

Channel is bowed a bit...

Close call

1/4" brackets

Spindly bolts

 

[HDTriHawk]

I wasn't really sold on the idea until you brought up the F clamps you're "heavily invested in". Nice start man. Looks great.

 

[kf4zht]

I am about to convert mine to the slat style. Did you jig up the welded bolts on the slats or just mark and eyeball?

 

[tarbellb]

I scribed a line using my laser, then eyeballed. I did use a wood jig to clamp the bolts in place.

They definitely are not perfect, im planning on using a 5/8" or 3/4" hole in the channel for some wiggle room. For me, the ability to adjust them was more important.

 

[nosnerd]

Subscribed

 

[tarbellb]

Its a functioning table now. Put it to work as the last bolt went in.

The Good-
_ SO MUCH CLAMPING! seriously, its amazing how versatile my clamps are now.
_ Anchoring other tools like my tubing bender is easy as running bolts through the slots into Unistrut and tightening.
_ Pushing 1000+lbs isnt bad at all, 6" wheels and nice concrete makes it pretty easy.
_ Adjustments were easy, setup took about 30-45 minutes, and can be altered easily.

The Bad-
_ Deflection from the C channel angle, yup, it *****, the bolts when tightened start to deflect and add negative camber to the middle. I think there is a easy fix using "I beam wedges" or basically tapered square metal washers. Fingers crossed, as some are 1/8" low.
_ Flat bar isnt all that flat. Some of my pieces clearly had some abuse in the yard, but nothing to terrible. Just not a 2" solid plate thats for sure.
_ Cord catching, this is a toss up, its great for keeping cords out of the way, and also at grabbing them.

Overall, super happy to have a huge welding table with unlimited clamping. And using the MDF topper is awesome for other projects. I will be cutting it in half so I can have 50/50 welding area and worktop.

Other additions, clamp rack, grinder rack, shelf on the bottom for the dry cut, etc... and a top shelf to catch debris.

 

[mrolds88]

Your build is coming along nicely. One thing I noticed you are in need of is levelling washers for the bolts going through the channel. http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=zwefdh That way you can get good torque on the bolts and there are no funky stress issues.

 

[tarbellb]

Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for.

 

[NUTTSGT]

A helluva welding table, well design and well built.

 

[motofool33]

i like it, so did you have the steel cut from the supplier?

 

[tarbellb]

Just revisited this after updating some stuff on my table.

Thanks for the kind words guys, not to many places you get to show off a table like this and get some props.

Upgrades include some heavy wire mesh for the bottom shelf. Its nice, but a PITA to "slide" heavy stuff out on it. But all the mess falls through, easy to clean.

A simple grinder rack, 2 x 1/8" flat bar welded vertically, catches them right between the spindle and disc.

HF bender mount and Wilton 4.5" vise mount, typical receiver tube style. Moving that vise around is not easy though.

Still trying to find some (very cheap) rubber pads/sheet/? to mount on the floor locks I have. Any suggestions? Hockey pucks are just a tad to small in diameter to easily mount. Oh and I mean cheap, like <$20 shipped for the set.

Any sheet goods, or odd products out there you can think of? Needs to be about 4" diameter and 1/2" or thicker.

 

[jw3]

I use cheap plastic cutting boards from Walmart for such tasks. There's probably something better, but availability and price it's hard to beat


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[f150skidoo]

Looks good.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 578655
I like your table...alot like mine.

Something I put in you that you may want to think about is a sheet of 1/8" steel under the slats. It is just cut to fit...so it will collect sparks and debris...and I can slide it out to clean. That will help with trashing your tools and metal grindings everywhere. You can sort of see it in this photo.

 

[WWShop]

Great welding table, and cool shop chair.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Amazing welding table. Tons of open slats, but I'm sure it's easy to clamp things down!!

Have any pictures of fabricating on this table? Curious what kinds of things you're working on.

 

[tarbellb]

Amazing welding table. Tons of open slats, but I'm sure it's easy to clamp things down!!

Have any pictures of fabricating on this table? Curious what kinds of things you're working on.

Thanks guys, its been a great table.

I design and build custom furniture and pretty much anything people will pay me for.

Here is a link to my website: www.factory320.com

you will get a idea of what I do. A mix of wood and metals, with a little of everything.

 

[tig]

I'm stealing from this build. Just say'n.

 

[tarbellb]

I'm stealing from this build. Just say'n.

Steal away! Thats what I did to find the best solution for me.

Let me know if you have any questions. There are a few things I would have done differently but overall very happy with the result.

 

[saceone]

cool build and nice website

 

[tig]

Steal away! Thats what I did to find the best solution for me.

Let me know if you have any questions. There are a few things I would have done differently but overall very happy with the result.

See how you inspired me?

[/QUOTE]

Steel is cut (except top) and the base is tacked. If I find time this week I should have the frame completed by the weekend...

Documented in my Garage thread.

 

[tarbellb]

Very cool! Well done.

One thing that really needs to be addressed if using C channel or tapered angle for the top connection point for the plates/bolts.

You NEED to use tapered shim washers specifically designed for leveling out the bolt/nut connections on tapered steel flanges.

I didnt buy mine before starting and it bowed my plates when tightened.

Excited to see how yours turns out, looks like it was well designed so far.

 

[tarmy]

View attachment 601763

Here is mine...some ideas...

 

[fireplug]

I'm totally ignorant when it comes to welding but I just bought a welder which is what led me to your post.

Why the standoffs using the bolts? Couldn't the plates simply rest on the channel?

 

[tarbellb]

The reason is two parts >

A) adjustable height to dial in flatness

B) welding any "top" material to the frame could cause heat distortion, making a crappy non flat surface. *


* the heat from welding is prone to distorting the metal, causing it to warp and bend. Do a little research but more importantly start building stuff and you will learn how to deal with it. Good luck!

 

[Mr onetwo]

Still trying to find some (very cheap) rubber pads/sheet/? to mount on the floor locks I have. Any suggestions? Hockey pucks are just a tad to small in diameter to easily mount. Oh and I mean cheap, like <$20 shipped for the set.

Any sheet goods, or odd products out there you can think of? Needs to be about 4" diameter and 1/2" or thicker.

Really nice table build...it goes in my "best" table builds file. Tractor Supply has rubber belting sold by the foot...should be just what you are looking for. http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...er-3-8-in-thick-sold-by-the-foot?cm_vc=-10005 They also sell rubber stall mats you could cut up.

 

[deminimis]

I picked up a 30x42x5/8 welding table from a junker for only $100 over the weekend. Although it's nearly flat, it just isn't flat enough. I could get by using spacers/shims, but... I was thinking of purchasing a Certiflat table top and just setting it on the table (shimmed, if needed, so it's stable). However, I've studied your two tables over the years. I may just copy you design and bolt to existing table top. For leveling the works, I have a bunch of 3/4 thread 4130 bungs I mis-purchased. Think I'll weld those to perches and use long 3/4 bolts (with plates welded to the ends0 for levelers. You, sir, have inspired me.

What I picked up Friday night:

After a little surgery and some new casters (still several pieces I need to cut off):

 

[skipnay]

I'm getting some 1" plate and was wondering if you had to do all over again what would you change? Really thinking about doing this with that 1" plate. The only thing is I will have to plasma cut my pieces. I already have a 12' long 2.5' depth welding bench with some 3/8 steel with no holes or anything. Kinda hard to clamp to unless your right along the edge.

 

[tarbellb]

I'm getting some 1" plate and was wondering if you had to do all over again what would you change? Really thinking about doing this with that 1" plate. The only thing is I will have to plasma cut my pieces. I already have a 12' long 2.5' depth welding bench with some 3/8 steel with no holes or anything. Kinda hard to clamp to unless your right along the edge.

Personally- I would rent/buy/barrow a mag drill and do the hole pattern if you have a solid plate!

Not worth cutting up a bunch of beautiful plate, I chose the slate style because its cheaper and will be easier to break down and transport to a new space (in the works).

------------

If I were to do it again I wouldnt use channel as my main horizontal beams.

Tarmy has the right idea (earlier in the thread), he offset some flat bar to act like the channel.

I would follow through with a debris cover, as mentioned by others.

And lastly I would make better use of the space under the table, either make a HD pull out shelf or a 3 sided base and store stuff on wheels under.

But its cause I am limited on space, but who isnt.


Thanks for the compliments guys

 

[skipnay]

Another welding table thread that I like. I also have a bunch of those F clamps. Though I think holes would be good for me also but I might just stick to the slots instead of just one piece...