Vintage Air Compressors

[deano8]

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[1Garageman]

Mustie1 on youtube got one of those running not to long ago.

I watched the video and subscribed. Very nice selection of videos to watch!

 

[JHuston]

My shop compressor is a 1930's Hobart Bros. ,

an interesting design that runs twin pistons via a pair of bevel gears run by the integral repulsion induction motor. I've rebuilt it, hydro tested the tank ( which easily weighs over 300 lbs on its own) and put it to work. the Hobart pump/motor is missing a few too many parts to be run, but the whole system is tied into this LU series Emglo,

-James Huston

 

[TRWham]

Is that Hobart from Troy, OH?

 

[JHuston]

Is that Hobart from Troy, OH?

It is indeed. I've only seen one or two of them online; this one popped up about a mile from my house.
-James Huston

 

[TRWham]

It is indeed. I've only seen one or two of them online; this one popped up about a mile from my house.
-James Huston

I lived there briefly in the 90s. The Hobart family had businesses across many industries so I deduced it would be one of their's given your OH location. I knew about their welding and food service equipment operations, and even welded steel houses, but I did not know about Hobart air compressors until now.

 

[JHuston]

I lived there briefly in the 90s. The Hobart family had businesses across many industries so I deduced it would be one of their's given your OH location. I knew about their welding and food service equipment operations, and even welded steel houses, but I did not know about Hobart air compressors until now.

I don't know too much about it, but every example of Hobart Bros. compressor I've seen so far looks like mine, so it's likely they didn't make them for long. Ideally, I'd have the 1960's-ish Devilbiss vertical tank I'm still attempting to talk my boss out of, but the Hobart, or at least the tank, does what I need for now.

-James Huston

 

[Mark914]

picked this up years ago at a tag sale, i think it was a possible homemade job from a refrigration pump. I needed room and sold it a few years later for $20.

 

[Mark914]

Not a good pic, but my garage compressor. 1956 Champion i believe. We needed to use an engine hoist to lift the 5 HP electric motor up on top of the compressor. Now a 5 HP electric motor weighs like 30 lbs. haha

Is anyone else nervous about using their old compressor ? Condition of the tank , etc. I only run mine up to 110 psi.

 

[diesel_dan]

Not a good pic, but my garage compressor. 1956 Champion i believe. We needed to use an engine hoist to lift the 5 HP electric motor up on top of the compressor. Now a 5 HP electric motor weighs like 30 lbs. haha

Is anyone else nervous about using their old compressor ? Condition of the tank , etc. I only run mine up to 110 psi.

when I brought my 80 gallon Saylor-Beall home (late '60s) its pressure was set, and had been run for years at 175psi. It didn't have a gauge on it when I bought it, only found that out after cleaning up the pump and putting a gauge on it... I don't need it that high so I set it down to a cut out of 140psi. Figured that was easier on the pump as well as tank.

 

[lizaredking]

Hello, just picked up this old Champion compressor and need some help identifying the pump hp. The briggs is a 1977 8 hp and so far found out its a champion cw1 pump. found a post here of a similar one that's a 2 or 3 hp pump. If it's a 2 or 3 hp would the 8 hp briggs be overkill? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

You need 2x the electric motor horsepower for a gas engine drive, so while 8hp might be a little large, give thanks that Champion was a little generous, rather than trying to run something smaller at 110%.

 

[Movin/on]

I'm finally getting ready to upgrade my compressor setup and about a year ago was given a Lincoln/Quincy 325-10 compressor less tank and motor. I already have a IR35 2 stage that needs a rebuild so I'm planning on putting the Lincoln on that tank. My understanding is the Lincoln is setup to have a continuous run with unloaders.

Someone here said they have defeated the unloaders and used a Mag starter and a pressure switch. I've already put a mag starter switch on my IR4000 compressor. I'll just install a second mag switch and pressure switch.
So please walk me thru the steps to defeat the unloaders. Looks to me like oil pressure pushes a valve open from the top. The photos show the unloader piping on mine and the nameplate

Thanks Movin/on

 

[Bigblockyeti]

The unloaders are there to allow the considerable rotating mass to get up to speed before loading the motor with compression duties. The oil pressure builds as it's speeding up then relieves the air pressure from the unloaders allowing the intake valves to close instead of holding them open. The whole process usually takes ~5 seconds and makes life alot easier for the motor. The tubing you're seeing is all air tubing, the valve on the side shifts the unloaders from tank pressure to atmosphere. To defeat them you need only to not plumb the valve to the tank.

 

[MacMcMacmac]

There is no need to defeat the unloaders. Just hook up the lowest port to tank pressure and let them do their job. They only cycle at startup and shutdown and are totally independent of the mag starter. They can save your pump if you ever lose oil pressure.You can use them for continuous run, but you need a pilot valve and some extra valves and tubing.

 

[Movin/on]

If I understand correctly when I got my compressor it wasn't connected to a tank so I didn't understand how the unloaders were activated. Now I looked at it again and the valve on the side has just a barbed fitting to atmosphere. Quite sure a rubber hose wasn't intended to hold 175 psi pressure. (picture attached) So should I take it that all I need to do is install it to the electric motor with a pressure switch and mag starter switch?

Thanks for the insight.

Movin/on

 

[diesel_dan]

If I understand correctly when I got my compressor it wasn't connected to a tank so I didn't understand how the unloaders were activated. Now I looked at it again and the valve on the side has just a barbed fitting to atmosphere. Quite sure a rubber hose wasn't intended to hold 175 psi pressure. (picture attached) So should I take it that all I need to do is install it to the electric motor with a pressure switch and mag starter switch?

Thanks for the insight.

Movin/on

I couldn't be more envious - you were "given" that wonderful pump?! Wow...

Love to have one of those...

 

[MacMcMacmac]

Just pull the barb fitting and screw in a Swagelock and take a pressure signal from the tank. When the compressor stops, oil pressure drops and the valve on the side of the crankcase actuates and sends air to the unloaders to open the intake valves to vent trapped air from inside the pump. When the pump restarts, the opposite happens once sufficient oil pressure has built up. For a constant run you would need a pilot valve to send the air signal instead of the hydraulic oil pressure valve on the crankcase. The electrical hookup is the same as any other compressor, a switch and a starter.

 

[NilesRock]

Found a Champion TUV-55-80 today. It has a 2 HP Westinghouse 1730 rpm electric motor, REN 10 pump, and a 2 piece 80 gallon tank with one weld in the center. Seems to run pretty good. There's no signs of welding or grinding underneath the tank. Anyone ever seen adjustable legs as original equipment?

Now the fun part getting the 500 pound unit to my house and into a walk in basement with a 5.5 foot door. Luckily only 1 step down.

Probably best to take off the motor and pump then reassemble?

 

[Bigblockyeti]

Adjustable legs would be nice for some situations, I've never seen those factory?

Yes, take the pump and motor off, they can get way tippy being so top heavy.

 

[NilesRock]

Thank you Bigblockyeti. The welds look nice on the legs too. When I get it home a closer look is in order.

 

[Movin/on]

I've been asking about my Lincoln compressor retrofit for a while now and want to make sure I don't make a mistake when mounting it. The compressor shaft will be about 3" higher than the motor shaft so the belt will be pulling down on the compressor. Were compressors designed with a load level or does a slight angle make a difference. Wondering if the housing was built stronger on one side for the tension? The Lincoln base mount is much wider then the IR mounting pad so I'm welding up an intermediate platform. Wondering if I need to raise the motor as well. Maybe I'm just overthinking this.

Movin/on

 

[MacMcMacmac]

As long as the grooves line up and belt tension is correct you're good to go.

 

[Norseman70]

Can anyone give me any specifics on this air compressor?
I love it!
Guy that gave it to me said it was from the 1950s.
Works great!
What’s it worth?
Thanks

 

[Melobarry]

How do I post a picture

 

[ovilla]

I just picked up this beauty - a Delta air compressor?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Bigblockyeti]

It's just a Delta branded Devilbiss, should be a good unit if maintained.

 

[diesel_dan]

Can anyone give me any specifics on this air compressor?
I love it!
Guy that gave it to me said it was from the 1950s.
Works great!
What’s it worth?
Thanks

Missed your original quote - nice find! and free...!

Around my area, any running roll-around compressor goes for $100 on up. I'd actually pay more for a vintage one like yours... I didn't see what HP it was (edit: expanded picture and see it is 1/2HP - will run anywhere...). I've had pretty good luck with Craftsman compressors selling for more than I think they would ever fetch; name recognition perhaps?!

 

[Kilroy]

You guys ever run into any issues buying vintage Air Compressors? Not like normal wear and tear (which can be considerable in environments where they run 24/7), but like catastrophic tank failures, etc?

I love old compressors and have had a few, and they all ran great and were more solid and quieter than modern ones of similar capabilities. I was planning on buying a vintage one for the new shop, but I've recently been hearing a lot of horror stories... And the ones I'm seeing around seem beat to hell. So it's got me wondering if maybe it's time to look for a good new one.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

You guys ever run into any issues buying vintage Air Compressors? Not like normal wear and tear (which can be considerable in environments where they run 24/7), but like catastrophic tank failures, etc?

I love old compressors and have had a few, and they all ran great and were more solid and quieter than modern ones of similar capabilities. I was planning on buying a vintage one for the new shop, but I've recently been hearing a lot of horror stories... And the ones I'm seeing around seem beat to hell. So it's got me wondering if maybe it's time to look for a good new one.

Somewhere in this thread is info on testing tanks safely DIY style. That seems to be the issue with older comps. I wouldn't use a riveted tank at all. They do make good fuel storage tanks if they are fluid tight.

 

[diesel_dan]

Somewhere in this thread is info on testing tanks safely DIY style. That seems to be the issue with older comps. I wouldn't use a riveted tank at all. They do make good fuel storage tanks if they are fluid tight.

Hold on and help me here... But if a vessel can hold a pressure with fluid, isn't that what these are all tested for???

Or are you just saying: throw some diesel in it and if only a little leaks out no matter - use it as a storage tank...?

I'm (often) confused...

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Hold on and help me here... But if a vessel can hold a pressure with fluid, isn't that what these are all tested for???

Or are you just saying: throw some diesel in it and if only a little leaks out no matter - use it as a storage tank...?

I'm (often) confused...

Older tanks can be unsafe due to moister and corrosion(rust). Those tanks cane be cleaned out and used for fuel storage. Some smaller tanks can be coated with fuel tank sealer.Back in my car days we had a 10 gallon air tank we turned into a fuel tank for a T roadster. The tank had pin holes along the bottom of one end cap. A couple pad welds, cleaned the tank out, sealed the inside, and we had a $25 fuel tank. Better than spending several hundred. Looked as good as aluminum once painted matte silver. Also seen them used for diesel transfer tanks and home heating oil.

 

[Movin/on]

I quite often get 80gallon and larger tanks for free. If they don't leak and seem safe (I tap them along the bottom with a small hammer and if there isn't a change in sound ) I use them downstream from my regulator at 90psig. So far after 20+ years no issues. But I've got a good separator downstream from the regulator and I drain the high pressure side regularly. My Low pressure run is about 35 ft. with a couple of drip legs. We don't have cold weather here in SW Oregon and our humidity is really low (except in the rainy season Nov, thru Mar) my shop stays really dry. I'd never try a used tank at 170#.
Movin/on

 

[diesel_dan]

Older tanks can be unsafe due to moister and corrosion(rust). Those tanks cane be cleaned out and used for fuel storage. Some smaller tanks can be coated with fuel tank sealer.Back in my car days we had a 10 gallon air tank we turned into a fuel tank for a T roadster. The tank had pin holes along the bottom of one end cap. A couple pad welds, cleaned the tank out, sealed the inside, and we had a $25 fuel tank. Better than spending several hundred. Looked as good as aluminum once painted matte silver. Also seen them used for diesel transfer tanks and home heating oil.

Thanks - makes sense without the pressure. Had an old 911 that the gas tank had rusted inside but not enough to compromise the shell, and had it cleaned and coated like you are talking about - never had a problem with it in the 27 years I owned it...

 

[Loose Ctrl]

Thanks - makes sense without the pressure. Had an old 911 that the gas tank had rusted inside but not enough to compromise the shell, and had it cleaned and coated like you are talking about - never had a problem with it in the 27 years I owned it...

You're welcome. I've done the same thing with some old cars I had.

 

[Dlark7]

I just picked up a Westinghouse 1ayc 1.5 hp 80 gallon all original parts has had 2 owners.. first got had it 60 years never did anything but change oil.. now second guy had it wired 110 and it ran beautifully I just not sure it’s meant to really be after reading a pdf I found on all model Westinghouse.. it’s 250 for rebuilt kit on eBay I got it for 200 deciding how I want to move forward after I restore the outside.. here some pics and what I couldn’t believe is how well the tank was. I’ve recently been trying to put together big station to paint cars and all that good stuff and this tank had couple rust flakes come out but water was clear as day..

 

[Dlark7]

Here’s a craftsman I restored fully I read painting the pump isn’t good for heat so I ended up using wire brush wheel to clean it and started on one above but let me tell u I rebuilt the pressure switch on this craftsman because I couldn’t find one that ran at 80 everyone was at a 100 and made the motor run to hard so I just took it apart and it is no easy task getting it back together fyi to anyone

 

[Dbeluscak]

Found this guy at an auction yesterday. For the price I had to take home! Can't find much info on the Dayton Air Compressor Co. I've only found one other example over at practical machinist. Looks very similar to the Champion compressors from the 20s. Based on the hardware style and cast iron its got to be nearly 100 years old. Going to strip her down and clean it up. Motor isn't original but I have a few repulsion motors lying around that might fit the bill. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

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[1930artdeco]

Hello,

I need some help here when it comes to terms. My Speedaire (sperate thread) that I just bought needs some parts I believe. But I want to know if I am using the correct terminology. As it is configured now there is no on/off switch or regulator. But it does have what I call a pressure switch that says 'Square D' and is wired into the motor and has a tube from the tank. Is this the on/off switch and/or regulator? If not I would like to add these items which I assume is possible.

Thanks,

Mike

Ps-the switch can be seen next to the motor.

 

[Loose Ctrl]

There is the pressure shut off switch that is set to stop the motor once a predetermined pressure is reached. It would be wired directly to the motor. There is a pressure relief valve, also known as a pop off valve, that vents pressure should the pressure shut off switch fail to stop the motor from over pressurizing the tank. This is a spring loaded mechanical valve, usually brass, and is mounted on top of the tank. Then you have a regulator. It is usually plumbed into the pressurized air outlet on the tank. This regulator is where you set pressure to the line(s) supplying tools that are air powered.


Pressure relief valve looks something like this.

The wiring should look something like this. Wire colors may not be the same.

This is a dual regulator set up and how I prefer to do it to protect tools from moister and internal corrosion.