Vintage Craftsman Drill Press

[Slowjoe]

Hey! Last Sunday, I picked up this Craftsman DP. It has no model badge, but it is in GREAT shape. The original paint is all there with just a few scratches, and it needs a cleaning. The Vari-Slo appears to be intact. It also came with a milling vise, shown on the table and on the base after I moved it.) I think with some serious cleaning and a good lube, this unit will be ready.

 

[FrankLee]

WOW! So much greatness in that one. Very nice score, Joe!

The head is early to mid '50s. The model number would be 103.23131, if it was originally a bench-top, or 103.23141, if it was originally a floor standing model.


It looks like it's a hybrid machine. The base is not Craftsman and I can't see the table under the pan. I don't recognize that column collar near the base either.

What about the column? We discussed how the top of Craftsman columns were milled inside.

The hold-down clamped to the column above the table is a Craftsman accessory. Craftsman also sold those Furnas F/R switches.

Are the tilting vise and rotary table branded "Craftsman"? IIRC, they were both made by Palmgren.


WOW!

 

[Slowjoe]

Hi Jim. I haven't had the chance for a close inspection of the column or table. I'll get to that this weekend and let you know.
BTW, on those parts I got...
I disassembled the Jacob's chuck, and some of the teeth are broken off of the jaws. I think that tells me that somebody cranked really hard on the key when locking down on small bits (depending on the jaw, only the last 1 or 2 teeth are broken/missing). I don't recall for sure, but I think it's a 63A (or 633A?). Is the 64A the standard chuck for that machine? Do you by chance have replacement jaws, or a good chuck. This one has that safe lock feature, which I like.
Thanks.
Joe

 

[FrankLee]

Hi Jim. I haven't had the chance for a close inspection of the column or table. I'll get to that this weekend and let you know.

Yes, please do.

BTW, on those parts I got...
I disassembled the Jacob's chuck, and some of the teeth are broken off of the jaws. I think that tells me that somebody cranked really hard on the key when locking down on small bits (depending on the jaw, only the last 1 or 2 teeth are broken/missing).

That is a bummer. Cleaning that chuck was going to be my project last Friday. I would have discovered the broken teeth.

If the end teeth were broken off, more likely, someone pressed the sleeve on without extending the jaws. Typically, over-cranking the key will break the teeth on the sleeve.

I don't recall for sure, but I think it's a 63A (or 633A?). Is the 64A the standard chuck for that machine?

The Jacobs 6A chuck was standard on 100s until 1951-ish
I believe that is a Jacobs 633C and was standard on the 100s and 150s from 1951-ish to 1966.

Do you by chance have replacement jaws, or a good chuck.

I think I have a set of jaws and a split nut. I'll check.

This one has that safe lock feature, which I like.
Thanks.
Joe

 

[crguy]

Those with the Vari Slo are neat! Don't force it when adjusting the speed as the castings aren't all that strong. I'd sell the rotary table to someone with a milling machine. That drill press isn't designed to be used for milling work.

 

[Slowjoe]

Those with the Vari Slo are neat! Don't force it when adjusting the speed as the castings aren't all that strong. I'd sell the rotary table to someone with a milling machine. That drill press isn't designed to be used for milling work.

Yeah, my thoughts exactly. I wish I did have a Bridgeport, but since I don't, and probably never will, I'll sell it. Any idea of the worth? It, too, looks to be in excellent shape.

 

[crguy]

Yeah, my thoughts exactly. I wish I did have a Bridgeport, but since I don't, and probably never will, I'll sell it. Any idea of the worth? It, too, looks to be in excellent shape.

Look on Ebay to see what they have sold for. Palmgren is one of the makers of those.

 

[Slowjoe]

Thanks for the info; I'll check there.

 

[JZiggy]

Lots of goodies on that press! Sweet!

 

[Snip's]

Congratz on the DP....
Lots of goodies on that one...

Is that a Welch 1100 Cam-Lock Drill Press Clamp?

 

[skeer]

"She's a beaut Clark!"

 

[Slowjoe]

Congratz on the DP....
Lots of goodies on that one...

Is that a Welch 1100 Cam-Lock Drill Press Clamp?

I don't know. The only thing I can find on it is Patent #3,345,889

 

[Slowjoe]

WOW! So much greatness in that one. Very nice score, Joe!

The head is early to mid '50s. The model number would be 103.23131, if it was originally a bench-top, or 103.23141, if it was originally a floor standing model.


It looks like it's a hybrid machine. The base is not Craftsman and I can't see the table under the pan. I don't recognize that column collar near the base either.

What about the column? We discussed how the top of Craftsman columns were milled inside.

The hold-down clamped to the column above the table is a Craftsman accessory. Craftsman also sold those Furnas F/R switches.

Are the tilting vise and rotary table branded "Craftsman"? IIRC, they were both made by Palmgren.


WOW!

Hi FrankLee. The rotary table is exactly like the one on my 103.23140 DP. It has the number 27213-103 cast into the underside. I'll check out the column tomorrow.

 

[RTM]

The only thing I can find on it is Patent #3,345,889

US Patent: 3,345,889 - Slide and grip quick-action cam-lock clamp

US patent 3,345,889 Slide and grip quick-action cam-lock clamp was issued to Fred W. Yunt of Torrance, CA and H. Keats Baker of Fullerton, CA. It was granted on 10/10/1967. This work holding device clamps around a drill press column and is used to hold the work piece down on the table. Early...

datamp.org

 

[FrankLee]

I can't see the table under the pan.

It has the number 27213-103 cast into the underside.

Part number 27213-103 is indeed the part number for a King-Seeley Craftsman tilting table. So, that's good news.


The cam-lock clamp, the tilting vise and the rotary table are shown on page 39 in the 1970 Craftsman Tool Catalog; link below

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/17198.pdf#page=39

 

[skeer]

https://ppubs.uspto.gov/dirsearch-public/print/downloadPdf/3345889

 

[Nick Rivers]

I see two different rotary tables in the photos by looking at the crank handles. Those combined are worth more now than the drill press. I would not sell them.
Rotary tables are useful on a drill press for lining up precise drill locations using the X and Y axes.

 

[gatewaysysop]

I see two different rotary tables in the photos by looking at the crank handles. Those combined are worth more now than the drill press. I would not sell them.
Rotary tables are useful on a drill press for lining up precise drill locations using the X and Y axes.

This. I have one like the model shown on the base. Mine is branded Craftsman, marked as made in Japan. Superbly made and I would not part with it. Once you've had one to line things up just right, you will wonder how you managed without, especially if like me you don't have a mill and have to make do with a drill press somehow.

 

[Slowjoe]

Hi Jim. I haven't had the chance for a close inspection of the column or table. I'll get to that this weekend and let you know.
BTW, on those parts I got...
I disassembled the Jacob's chuck, and some of the teeth are broken off of the jaws. I think that tells me that somebody cranked really hard on the key when locking down on small bits (depending on the jaw, only the last 1 or 2 teeth are broken/missing). I don't recall for sure, but I think it's a 63A (or 633A?). Is the 64A the standard chuck for that machine? Do you by chance have replacement jaws, or a good chuck. This one has that safe lock feature, which I like.
Thanks.
Joe

Hey there, Jim. I got some measurements of the column:
62" LOA column,
1 end is 2-95/128" OD and 2-53/128" ID
the other end is 2-95/128 OD and 2-29/64" ID.

FYI, the 103.23140 column is 65-7/8" LOA
2-97/128" (2-3/4") OD & 2-51/128" ID @ top
2-95/128" OD & 2-23/64" ID @ bottom

How do you clean the crud from inside of the columns?
Joe

 

[FrankLee]

Hey there, Jim. I got some measurements of the column:
62" LOA column,
1 end is 2-95/128" OD and 2-53/128" ID
the other end is 2-95/128 OD and 2-29/64" ID.

FYI, the 103.23140 column is 65-7/8" LOA
2-97/128" (2-3/4") OD & 2-51/128" ID @ top
2-95/128" OD & 2-23/64" ID @ bottom

How do you clean the crud from inside of the columns?
Joe

Are any of those column IDs machined ~2" deep? If so, that is a K-S Craftsman column. I'm not aware of any other manufacturer who machined just the top ID.


The column height was reduced from 67" to 62" in the 1956 model year. I'm not sure what to conclude about the 23140 column height and the differences in the top and bottom OD and ID dimensions. The 65-7/8" height does not sound like mid-'40s to mid-'60s era Craftsman.


I just push a dry wadded-up rag through the column with a broom stick and don't worry about what's left.

 

[Slowjoe]

Yes, both columns have been machined on the inside, just at one end. I would assume that is the top end of the column.

 

[FrankLee]

Yes, both columns have been machined on the inside, just at one end.

Ok, good. That 65-7/8" dimension threw me.

I would assume that is the top end of the column.

Correct.

 

[Slowjoe]

How do you clean the inside of the column?

 

[Slowjoe]

NVM, I just saw your reply.

 

[FrankLee]

Yeah, I forgot to answer that and edited it in.

 

[Slowjoe]

Hey there, Jim. I got some measurements of the column:
62" LOA column,
1 end is 2-95/128" OD and 2-53/128" ID
the other end is 2-95/128 OD and 2-29/64" ID.

FYI, the 103.23140 column is 65-7/8" LOA
2-97/128" (2-3/4") OD & 2-51/128" ID @ top
2-95/128" OD & 2-23/64" ID @ bottom

How do you clean the crud from inside of the columns?
Joe

Hi. I got the package yesterday. Thank you.
What are the 10-32 x 3/4" screws for?

 

[FrankLee]

Those are 10-32?
I meant to include 8-32 x 3/4" for the spindle pulley retaining screws. The originals are always(?) damaged or broken on the 80 and 100 series drill presses that don't have the snap ring on the lower quill.

Do you think those chuck jaws will work?

 

[Slowjoe]

My mistake, they are 8-32. I should have taken them out of the bag to look at them.
The jaws look like they should work. I'll be rebuilding the chuck soon, so I'll let you know.

 

[Slowjoe]

The jaws and split ring fit and work just fine. Thank you.

 

[Slowjoe]

Jim, in regards to the spindle collar, does the slight bevel install towards the quill or towards the spindle pulley?

Please look at the attached pics. I installed the following parts: (starting from the check end, going up)
Feed Stop Bracket
Quill Snap Ring
Quill Bumper O-Ring
At top of quill on spindle shaft:
Steel Washer
O-Ring
Spindle Collar

Does this look correct, and have I left anything out? Buying this DP in boxes and bags didn't give me much reference on how things go, and trying to merge Craftsman diagrams with hybrid parts is a bit confusing.
Thanks for your assistance. (And I may have more questions later!)
Joe

 

[FrankLee]

Jim, in regards to the spindle collar, does the slight bevel install towards the quill or towards the spindle pulley?

Please look at the attached pics. I installed the following parts: (starting from the check end, going up)
Feed Stop Bracket
Quill Snap Ring
Quill Bumper O-Ring
At top of quill on spindle shaft:
Steel Washer
O-Ring
Spindle Collar

Does this look correct, and have I left anything out? Buying this DP in boxes and bags didn't give me much reference on how things go, and trying to merge Craftsman diagrams with hybrid parts is a bit confusing.
Thanks for your assistance. (And I may have more questions later!)
Joe

Yes, your photos look correct.

Just be sure to tighten the cone of the set screw into the divot in the spindle. This will slightly compress the rubber washer and apply preload to the bearings.

 

[Slowjoe]

Thank you. I now have the quill/spindle assembly installed. Scratching my head on spindle pulley...I see where the small snap ring registers into the groove below the pulley bearing. Where does the large snap ring register?

 

[FrankLee]

The outer snap ring gets installed in the head casting. The outer race of the lower bearing rests on the snap ring.

You don't have to remove the quill/spindle assembly to install the snap ring. Just lower the quill to get the spindle out of the way. I forgot to install that snap ring on multiple occasions.

 

[Slowjoe]

Ok, thanks. Now I have to figure out how to get that ring into the head casting. I don't have that long snap ring tool like you showed me.

 

[FrankLee]

Needle nose pliers work just fine. I believe I filed the hook of that snap ring so needle nose pliers gripped better. Photos added above.

IIRC, those long external snap ring pliers I showed you were for the inner snap ring on the pulley.

 

[Slowjoe]

Oh, ok. I pulled the spindle/quill out again, and I see a groove inside the casting where it registers. I assume I can install it before installing the spindle/quill? Then install the spindle pulley/sleeve/bearing assembly last?

 

[Slowjoe]

Am I correct in placing the bearing right up
against the sleeve? i.e., the sleeve is a spacer to place the bearing in the right location on the pulley shaft?

 

[FrankLee]

Ok, good.

I assemble the head on my work bench with the head resting on it's back motor mount side.

Below is the order in which I assemble the head. All sub-assemblies are first assembled independently.

1. install the quill/spindle assembly
2. install the pinion/spring/hub assembly
3. install the spindle pulley
   The spindle aids in keeping the bearings aligned which make installation easy.
   Confirm that the spindle pulley is fully seated onto the outer snap ring.
4. install the feed stop assembly
5. install the chuck
6. install the feed handles, head trim, badge

 

[FrankLee]

Am I correct in placing the bearing right up
against the sleeve? i.e., the sleeve is a spacer to place the bearing in the right location on the pulley shaft?

Yes.

install and fully seat the upper bearing onto the pulley shaft
install the bearing spacer
install and fully seat the lower bearing against the spacer
install the inner snap ring

 

[Slowjoe]

For some reason, I can't find the pictures and drawings for the 2 pulley bearings. Are they both 205KDD?